That's a pretty standard tek but there are a couple of things you might want to bear in mind for best yields and purity, outside of factors like quality of materials:
Quote:2. Place 50ml of naphtha in a small jar and then inside the hot bath.
3. Mix 50g of lye into the water slowly without letting it build up on the bottom.
4. Once the water clears, add 50g of MHRB and then shake vigorously while "burping" the jar.
5. After the base is thoroughly mixed place in the "hot bath" and let it sit for 1 hour.
6. After shaking the base up one more time,
7. Gently add the 50ml of hot naphtha to the base.
Recent experiments, mostly by (exemplary!) member Loveall, have demonstrated that high pH and high ionic strength are what contributes to the formation of coloured 'impurities'. These (at least in the case of MHRB) are in fact aggregates of polymerised DMT and it's possible to minimise this by adding the ingredients in the following order:
First make a slurry of the mimosa bark in water. [Give it at least a bit of time to hydrate, or warm it up, or put it through a couple of freeze-thaw cycles.]
Then add the naphtha, and finally add the solution of sodium hydroxide (lye). You only need to add enough lye to produce a dark purple-black coloration. If the yields seem low, or if you encounter an emulsion, you can always add a bit more lye later on.
Quote:11. Syphon off the clear naphtha layer using an LC syringe and transfer into a Pyrex dish.
It's best to syphon into a Pyrex jug first, just in case you pick up a few droplets of basic soup. Any rogue specks basic soup can then be left in the jug when the naphtha is transferred to the Pyrex dish for freeze precipitation.
By following these step you should be able to do away with recrystallisation entirely. Ditto the sodium carbonate washes - they should be unnecessary if you're careful with your pulls.
And, welcome to the Nexus. It's always good to see someone taking the time to plan their extraction carefully.
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