Ah, I see, thanks everyone for the insight!
I'm pleased to say I'm waiting on my collection of xylene pulls to evaporate, leaving the final product. Very excited! I followed the tek exactly except for subbing xylene instead of toulene/dcm (I looked everywhere for these. I can't find them where I live.)
For everyone's information, I didn't encounter any emulsions using xylene. As Benzyme pointed out he had no problems with xylene, I didn't either.

Here's what I did, exactly.

1. Seed powder mixed with 100 ml of acetone for three hours. Filtered. Repeated three times. (9 hours soak total)

2. Acetone extracts are combined and evaporated to dryness. That took a day and a half by the way, Nash. lol You said "it shouldn't take too long" pshh haha!

3. )Mixed in 100 ml DI water and a pinch of citric acid (pH 3-5). Measured pH. Equaled 3.1.
Added this to the dry crude LSA extract. Mixed for ten minutes. Solids filtered out.

4. As per the recommendation of another member on the thread regarding defatting morning glory seeds, I defatted solution with 50 ml naptha, mixing well for 10 minutes, 4 times total. No emulsions. Things seem perfect so far.

5. Added exactly 1 mL of ammonia to solution. Measured pH. Equaled 9.5 (Bottom layer by the way). I added drops of ammonia until it reached exactly 9.5. Perfecto.

6. Immediately added xylene (in sub for toluene/dcm). Mixed well for 15-20 minutes. Separated top layer of xylene and transferred into a large pyrex glass dish under some fans. I pulled four times with xylene. Discarded bottom water layer.

7. Combined xylene extracts are in the pyrex glass dish under fans. This is currently where I am. In the morning, I'll report back with what I see. But I expect to see "a pure white crystal residue once dry".

8. Then, of course, I'll combine 10 mL DI water with 5 mL 95% grain alcohol (ever-clear).

9. Sprinkle in a pinch of tartaric acid and mix thoroughly for 10 minutes. Filter this, and store in a vial away from heat and light.

Number 9. is the part I'm worried about. My friend and I expect to dose in the morning, as soon as I've completed step 8.
So, I suppose the tartaric acid for us is unnecessary, correct? (if it's purpose is largely preservation)

And, as I understand Nash's post correctly, I'm simply supposed to combine peppermint oil with the extract, turning it slightly milky?, waiting 20 minutes, then consuming. I need to know specifically what amount of peppermint oil is considered to be, as Nash's post said, "a small amount". I apologize for my naivety.

Thanks guys. You're my hero's.

Waiting for DCM to finish evaporating.

Will post results tomorrow.

There are two things which might alter final results :
1. I accintently put too much citric acid (ph was around 2.5-3). Note that I achieved the G spot of 9.5 when basing
2. I did not evap to dryness : when there was cleary only water left (since I did not dry the acetone) I thought it would not affect final yield. (Correct me if I am wrong)

Thank you for this

Next time add the acid to distilled water, and adjust the ph via dropwise addition followed by stirring. You're not trying to win a marathon, you may absolutely add a few drops, and stir between ph measurements.

Yes, I thought the same thing


DCM seemed to be yielding white crystals last night, but this morning all is left is very little light brown stuff.

I thought : maybe my ph test strips are bunk, so I added more amonia until it turned green/yellow for real this time (last night was pale yellow)

Pulled with DCM again but it seems to not be working once's more

I am lost now :/

I followed the tek to the letter except for when I added to much acid and when evaporating acetone. Would either of these two steps be the cause of my problem ? And if so, how ?

I still have my defat pulls, is it possible that lsa is in it ? I had frozen it last night to try and recuperate naphta, filtered it this morning and I thought hell, why not just evaporate it and see. There is something white mixed with some plant fats (clear).

Also, the seeds are not bunk : I once took only two of them and tripped. Maybe it is not lsa that is in them ? That little brown stuff sure is psychoactive ...

Hypothesis : seeds do not contain lsa but other alkaloids which are active ?

I understand what I just did now :3

I took the whole 100 seed extract that wasn't defatted enough thus leading to the brown product instead of it being white.


Will report on the experience later when back to normal state

So when it says to mix well, what does that actually mean? Last time I tried this I ended up with emulsions because I shook it in a masion jar at the mixing steps… should I not?

you should not shake. if anything gently roll the jar.

I might get some of my Seeds out as well after reading this Post.

Any advice how long they are storable?

Mine are sitting in a dark place dry for like 3 years.



Can anybody tell me if it is already not worth to try this TEK anymore after such a long period ?





Also: If I plan do proceed ALL my 1000 Seeds ... will the product be soluble in just 2,3 ml of Water ?

Because there is a very nice Jar where I would keep it safe and sadly there is only this limited volume. I know that it was told to dissolve the product of 100 seeds in 15 ml. But can I even dissolve 1000 in even less? (not sure if anybody has tried so far)


THXX

@Brennendes Wasser

The seeds are more than likely not good after 3 years unfortunately. Although if stored in a cool dark place there is a chance they may still be active. For future reference, know that you can store things for almost indefinitely in the freezer.

I would say with 1000 seeds it would be worth a try. You would need to adjust the procedure for the increased starting material.

hi there!

i've tryed to do the extraction but i think my acetone wasn't 100% pure.. there is alot of water and i can't evaporate more without time or any type of energy that could destroy the molecule. So, now i'll try to put the citric acid... and i'll back with more informations..

the water smells something like wood.. and have this yellow things, i think it's fat (idk)

but i didn't get the fluorescence with blacklight, so i don't know if i do something wrong.

anyway, i'll be back.

So what do you mean with not 100 % pure - it was possibly watery?

NEVER use solvents that contain water, it may shift their solvent capabilities into unwanted realms.

This does not apply for naphtha - it does not take up any water - but Acetone could catch water if its not 100 % closed - and this is every acetone in a regular flask.

So its not that dramatic, but on the other hand its so easy to make it dry with MgSO4 (I think its epsom salt??), just throw a dozen into it (its cheap) and let it sit there 1 day. I even leave it in the acetone all the time.



For the problem with the not totally dry product: You could use Calcium Chloride (not that cheap but still 15 $ should be enough forever as you can remove water from it in the oven by slowly heating up to 200 °C) and throw it in a box, then place your not completely dry product also in it and close it tight. This will soak up the last water out of it - NO heat required - not destroying anything =).

I'm curious how this would turn out using sodium bicarbonate instead of ammonia. It's more commonly available much less likely to drive the PH up too high.

Is this thread worth a sticky maybe ?

Done

Damn, they really go bad even if they are kept from oxidation and light?

Hot summer is enough to do damage I guess?

Yes, the seed alks will go bad if they are, say, kept in a bag in a hot environment for extended periods. Or in a cool environment exposed. But sealed in a freezer will keep the actives in seeds safe.

Someone is going to be diving back into this soon, but if I remember right Sodium Bicarb PH is not high enough to push LSA into freebase form.

Ammonia is available in hardware cleaning sections without additives, as well as internet market now days. It will usually go by some other product name however.

linking to other post of mine:
https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=97663

probably will be purified later, will find out then but in the mean time does anyone know?

Hi Kash, in the tek you recommend using combining the LSA extract with some peppermint oil. Do you believe this converts the LSA into LSH? Some people say that this is a myth and it won't do anything. I wanted to know what you thought.

I believe it is stated elsewhere you can convert LSA to LSH by adding the LSA crystals to a bit of red wine, the acetylhyde in the wine provides the necessary reaction for the A to H to take place.

Years later...
I came back to thank you for all this free and advanced knowledge.
SWIM make some extract and seems worked fine, even without the ideal equipment, SWIM used caustic soda and diluted everything in a 1 liter flask to control the pH more precisely and without destroying the lsa, however, SWIM believe SWIM lost a good amount in this move. SWIM used fumaric acid and kept it in the freezer, soon will consume it.