Generally speaking, the longer you let your cannabis soak in the solvent the more black goo you're going to have.

Oh yeah. I could not find ways fast enough to get my solvent seprated. That's why butane and a tube outside Is pretty great if you have a decent vac setup.

A lot of the kids in my area are smoking butane soup. My cousin, showed me his honey. It was bubbling pretty violently in his container. smelled strongly of tane. It look rushed.

I'm in love with rosin tech right now. No solvent, no vacuum, no heat. I can go on lol.

I found way to do it =P would work just fine with a cheapy handpump. Scroll down to the picture: https://www.dmt-nexus.me...spx?g=posts&t=63010

Just drizzle the solvent on, count to 10 and start pumping. (Repeat until satisfied)

=P

No heat? heheh

So I tried it yesterday. Didn't work for me. I guess the bud wasn't good enough for this tek. While it really seems to be a cool way to get extract fast, the yields seem to suffer.

I was wondering... Would it be possible to recover the THC after a butter/cooking oil extraction?
I assume it probably is feasible, I just wonder what kind of hardware it would require.
After all, it's a very cheap, efficient and safe solvent.

Also, what extraction would you say is the best for fan leaves?
I think cooking oil is, but I'm wondering how acetone/iso would perform.

Cheers!

Probably a qwiso for fan leaves, I imagine recovering from butter would be difficult.

I think, for leaves it might be better/cheaper to make some kind of water hash.

I've ordered a full set of ice-o bags, we'll see how that performs with fan leaves. They're really cheap on eb@y now.

So... no way of extracting THC from cooking oil? Any chemist can chime in?

Just wanted to post some quick info on bubble and dry sifting regarding yields I have obtained

Per 100 grams of trim I get from ~4-11 grams of good quality hash from dry sieving. This is highly strain dependent. For example the gorilla glue #4 I have makes the 11grams whereas my master kush plant makes 4grams.

Per 100 grams of trim I get ~5- 16 grams from water extraction (bubble bags). Same as above, varies widely depending on strain and resin content.

I have done a few hash runs using whole flower and the yields are considerably high, but so is the amount of contamination. Lots of the pistillate hairs seem to break off and get in the hash, although I think with practice you could figure the right technique to minimize this.

yields for flower

~8-22 grams dry sift

~10-25 grams

As far as smoking or "dabbing" is concerned I find these methods to make the best hash. I have tried pretty good BHO, but there is a sense of satisfaction for me knowing that my concentrates are totally organic, since I go through the effort of growing organic flowers this is important to me.

Also I should note that my standard for hash is that it has to bubble or be "dabbable" and not leave a nasty residue on the skillet or in the vape.

Hi peeps, thanks for this thread, has got me intrigued and my brain cogs whirring... As someone with no current experience of performing cannabis extractions (but a fair bit of experience growing cannabis), do these different approaches described here yield a product roughly equivalent to Rick Simpson's "Phoenix Tears". I only ask as a friend made his own extract according to this recipe and used it orally in tiny amounts, and spoke very highly of it indeed. So I definitely want in on this game!

http://phoenixtears.ca/make-the-medicine/

Adam and Bancopuma, you guys might want to try a small run with ice cold ethanol (pure grain alcohol) as high a proof as you can find in order to make an absolute extract. The trick is to use ice cold ethanol that is at least 151 proof or higher, I try to use the 196 proof stuff from Everclear or Rectified Spirit or Spirytus from Poland. Take all of your plant material and place it into glass jars and into your freezer, as cold as you can get it. Place your pure grain alcohol (ethanol) into the freezer as well and all of your filtration equipment. After 2 days in the freezer it should be cold enough to work with. Pour the ethanol over your plant material enough to cover it and agitate it for about 3 minutes, then pour the liquid off and keep the plant material in the same glass jar and repeat once with the same amount of ethanol. Two times should be enough to get 80-90% of the goodies out. Because the ethanol is ice cold and is not in contact with the plant material for very long it will not leach out the Chlorophyl and many plant fats and waxes that ethanol normally grabs at room temp or higher temps. This is good, you do not want these in your end product. What is has grabbed is full spectrum cannibinoids and terpenes, THC and CBD which you do want. Combine and filter this yellowish liquid, then pour it into a flat bottom glass baking dish and allow all the liquid to evaporate. What you will be left with is absolute extract of cannabis that is either a shatter glass consistency or a very thick oil. Scrape this up with a clean razor blade and place it into a small glass jar or container that you can pull a vacuum on and you have wonderful full spectrum absolute cannabis extract that is food grade. You can dissolve some of this extract into a small amount of ethanol for tinctures or green dragon if you wish, or vape it as is. This stuff is much better than BHO or Co2 extracts and far better than any hash I have ever had, IMHO. Good luck.

[quote=Bancopuma]Hi peeps, thanks for this thread, has got me intrigued and my brain cogs whirring... As someone with no current experience of performing cannabis extractions (but a fair bit of experience growing cannabis), do these different approaches described here yield a product roughly equivalent to Rick Simpson's "Phoenix Tears". I only ask as a friend made his own extract according to this recipe and used it orally in tiny amounts, and spoke very highly of it indeed. So I definitely want in on this game!

http://phoenixtears.ca/make-the-medicine/[/quote]


I can attest that the RSO works and is very potent, I ate a glob the size of my pinky nail and it was too much, had me locked down.

I think I'm going to try MO's method now so I can make tinctures. Been wanting to do it for awhile now.

Phoenix tears claims to use Isopropyl Alcohol or Naptha, but if I am going to eat the end product on a regular basis I'd personally use something food safe like pure grain alcohol/ethanol. My guess is that some residual solvent is in the end product and I'd rather have that solvent be something I already consume in moderation. The tech I mentioned above is really more for vaping, so if you were going to orally take the end product you should probably decarb the herb before you use the solvent. The honey oil or absolute oil r shatter glass at the end can be thinned out with vegetable oil like EVOO or Coconut Oil to make it thin enough to place into piils or a syringe to consume orally.

With regard to veg oil as a solvent there is a guy who claims to be able to use Hemp Oil as the solvent, then he does something at the end called soaping where he uses a base and plant fats to move the actives from the oil into the water where it can then be evaped. As soon as the guy in finished with his tech he promises to post it to another forum, so I'll post it here in case anyone wants to read or experiment with it.

Mine didn't taste like it had any residue in it, evaporated just like a spice extraction (naphtha) and I smoke it more frequently than eat oil. All I know is it was stronger than I anticipated. I'm guessing it's already decarbed in the RSO method. Still gonna try the ethanol anyways just to try it.

Plus I think I was going to make a tincture, just leave it in ethanol, should stay thinned out enough for that.

Hey guys, thanks for the input here.

Mitakuye Oyasin - thanks a big bunch for that guide that sounds precisely like what I'm looking for, nice one!!

I've bookmarked this thread and very much look forward to experimenting in the future...

"Plus I think I was going to make a tincture, just leave it in ethanol, should stay thinned out enough for that."

Yes, i usually take notes on weights of total dried herb used and approx ml of ethanol used to figure out what the guestimated ratio of goodies per ml is. I will then reduce the liquid as much as possible and note the new ml amount to guess how many goodies per ml there are. If the tincture is too powerful you can always add more ethanol to make it slightly less powerful.

A month or so ago I did my first qwiso on fanleaves/trim and ended up with a blob of black gunk that smells in gross and sticks to everything Suffice to say once I was able to unstick it from the table I threw it away, seems very important to wash it VERY quickly.

Iso picks up lots of junk. One reason I don't use it. Ethanol can as well, but if you use the freezing cold high proof stuff and do not wash for more than 5 min you will eliminate most of those problems. And ethanol is food safe where Iso is not.

Some notes on bubblelator ice-o-lator extraction.

If you want to work with a camping washing machine in combination with a pyramid bag and two filter bags, then this may have some useful suggestions.

There are sets available of this, so a mini washing machines, the pyramid bag and two filter bags. It's good to know the filtersize in the bags. Usually both the pyramid and upper filter bag are 220 microns and the lower filter bag has 70 micron. The washing machines are standard camping equipment and can be bought seperately.

Edit: I don't really know if these sizes are correct that I gave ^^^. I read on a site about it, but since my bags are borrowed I don't know for sure if it's correct. You see, 70 microns is quite big and there are smaller sizes available. Anyway I examined my bags carefully and saw a label for the upper bag that said 185 and 45 for the lower and it seems logical to assume these are bag sizes. Anyway it's good to pay attention to this...

Now when you filter with the bags some crystals will pass all the way out and end up in the water. Also some THC will remain in the plant material used. What ends up in the water is unusable but there are smaller filter bags like 35 microns, so it might be possible to recover even this small sized pollen.

Anyway, here are some tips on the whole proces. Especially for getting as much yield as possible.

First of all it's labour intensive and because you use ice that will melt, it's a good thing to keep it going once you're on it. Working with a partner is good for this.

Now, when you notice the machine doesn't have ice in it anymore, it makes a lot less noise when this is that case, it's a good moment to add new ice. Overall it's about 4 kg of ice to start and the between 1 and 2 kg of ice about every twice runs it makes. But, there are different sizes of machines, so this is just an indication.

Also the amount of trimmings you put in the pyramid bag can be of influence. Found out that 150 grams of trimmings from good strains, grown outdoor, will yield around 10% over 7 runs of the machine. After that there's little left, but still a little comes out.

Now what is really a good tip is to squeeze the trimmings after each run when you flush the machine. This makes a big difference in yield.

Next is ofcourse to keep the lower side of the upper bag clean so no plant material >220micron ends up in the lower bag along with the goodies.

After the last run when you decide to call it a day, make sure to flush the machines one extra time and try to get all the foam out. Still not entirely sure if the foam actually contains signicicant amount of material, but to make sure no goodies are left in the machine is a good idea.

When you take the result out of the lower bag it's very wet ofcourse and it's a good thing to get as much moisture out of it asap. If you do it by hand it's really intense and be prepared for some sore hands next day. Tried a lot of methods for using tools to press, but if you don't have a mechanical press, the best way is still by hand.

Not sure how much yield you all have got, but experience so far is 10% with good trimmings and possibly even more. This yield depends mostly on the magic ingedrient ice and squeezing the bag after each run. Another factor would be the size of the bags, so between 220 and 70 microns you get this amount of yield, but if you were to add an even finer bag below the 70 micron this adds a yield. In fact there are a lot of possiblities and I've seen some post further up this thread that show some of these.

Anyway in closing, keep the material once you're done. It's still usable for making potent butter for example.

Found this on reddit. Thought I might post it here. Man...I'd love to be in the US at these times.