SWIM has done some research regarding Naphtha types and safe usage and has come to a few conclusions.

The naphtha concentration of Klean Strip V&MP and Jasco V&MP is 95-100%; obviously there are certainly impurities.

Klean Strip's website mentions there is "minimal residue" after drying of their naphtha. Note: minimal. I would not trust minimal with something I am inhaling into my lungs.

I have gotten the impression from suppliers' websites that V&MP naphtha leaves residue after drying -- naphtha is geared for fast drying but not totally clean drying. Not a problem with paint; a problem with smoking perhaps.

I have done an acid test on Klean strip naphtha manufactured in late 2017. After a couple hours the vinegar layer is extremely clear (although still very slightly cloudier than the naphtha layer). I am not sure whether or not micro-emulsions can be escaped in this test and therefore it seems like a flawed test to me. The evap. test is ongoing as I have used a lot of solvent to better view the possible remnants following evaporation. It will be difficult to determine whether or not the remnants are dust and particles in the air, however.

I am not particularly satisfied with either of these tests concerning the safe use of naphtha. I think it is enough to know that the naphtha is 95-100% (in Crown's case, 99-100%), and will always be leaving something for the smoking DMT user to inhale.

Whether or not the inhalation of the small residue from naphtha during DMT usage is particularly dangerous or even moderately unhealthy is something I do not know. Whether or not this inhaled amount is significant in comparison to the allowed amounts for chemists, mechanics and construction workers to inhale daily is something I do not know.

I have found that Odorless Mineral Spirits are 100% in purity; however, they do not work as well for pulling DMT.

The rich make money, the poor get poisoned.

After around 8 hours of sitting, the vinegar and naphtha separated almost entirely. Both layers were clear as water, with the vinegar layer being ever so slightly cloudier (almost imperceptibly so).

The evaporation test turned out to be very clean. There was no smell whatsoever of naphtha, and there was no tangible residue to scrape off. However, there was still a faint dry residue similar to the one witnessed by a previous user. It was clear and could not be seen unless held at an angle under light.

Obviously, washing the dish with water immediately removed the residue. It seems to me it may be an option to wash the "dried naphtha residue" off of DMT by a simple sodium carbonate wash. Although I understand this is used to remove only polar impurities, it seems to me like it is still washing nonetheless, and therefore must serve to clean it somewhat...

One thing I am curious about is why the vinegar took so long to clear, or more importantly, what this means for the integrity of the solvent (clear after about 5 minutes surely must be better than clear after 8 hours, but it is clear all the same).

If the impurities are nonpolar, neither a mini A/B nor a vinegar wash would remove it, if I have this correct. Re-x'ing with the same solvent would be next to useless for removing the residue of that solvent. Re-x'ing with a more selective solvent (hexane/heptane) seems to simply pass the problem over to the integrity of the new solvent. Not to mention it is unknown whether the new re-x would select against the residue of the previous solvent. Like dissolves like, and if the residue is nonpolar (which is the possibility we are trying to address here), hexane/heptane might very well pick it up as well.

I have a question has anyone test Vp&m naphtha thins enamel type? If so what was your results. I tested it twice and found no signs it wasn't good. But just want to make sure.

Sherwin Williams sells VM&P Naphtha as a "special reducer #3", and their MSDS's have always been trustworthy in my experience. Their counter help not so much.

First, Kleen Strip (as a brand) is garbage IMO, but OSHA takes MSDS's seriously and imposes serious fines for labeling violations. As to a residue, Nope....

VM&P stands for Varnish Makers & Painters Naphtha. There should be no residue. The word "Naphtha" is misleading, it can mean almost any flammable liquid. But the VM&P prefix means it's hydrocarbons within a limited range, I think chains 8 to 15 carbons long.

So essentially thousands of people doing pulls with naphtha right now are smoalking things that shouldn't be smoalked? I know this is an old thread but both Klean strip and "crown" leave an oily residue.... And there's no way to get rid of a potential non-polar hydrocarbon that is a problem. Would be interested to see this come back to light to see if there is a way to extract these problem non-polar molecules ..

Bumping this thread. My old can of VM&P is almost empty. Curious if Bestine gives anyone issue? Works great for reX