The Minimalist’s Mescaline Microwave Assisted Drytek - MMMADtek

This tek has long been in the works. A different version was first proposed by ouro, called "Supertek" as a means for easier extraction of DMT. I am not the author. There is no author. This is a collaborative effort, with contributions from a few different DMT-Nexus members. Honorable mentions are: ouro and dreamer042. After a few different test runs of the Supertek, it was agreed that it should be made public knowledge. This is YOUR tek. Use it. Improve it. Enjoy.

Why Supertek? What is superior? Well, for one, the tek allows the user to avoid some of the less favorable non polar solvents, such as the stinky duo: Xylene and Toluene. Also, it does not require the use of Lye (NaOH), and uses friendlier acids than HCl. We use either non concentrated sulfuric acid, or Citric Acid. So, 1) Less noxious chemicals 2) more readily available chemicals 3) can be performed by anyone with a minimal knowledge of Kitchen Chemistry. If that is not enough validation to earn the term “super,” – in your opinion – then take that up with Kikker. Above all, what makes it most superior, is its simplicity. Which is why I have changed the name to "The Minimalist’s Mescaline Microwave Assisted Drytek" or "The MMMAD tek"


What will you need?

Dried cactus powder Cactus of your choice – for the demonstration of this particular tek, I will be using a 12” cutting of a Trichocereus pachanoi monstrose. When dried, the final weight was 28grams. This weight is just the standard for this specific experiment. It can be adjusted as you see needed/fit
Calcium Hydroxide (Lime)
Magnesium Sulfate (Epsom salts)
Sulfiric Acid *** updated best choice NON Concentrated - used as "pH down" for ponds and aquariums
Citric Acid* (optional)
Acetone
A microwave – used for the acid cook and drying Epsom salts. If you do not have a microwave, then you can still accomplish all these things in an equivalent manner, it will just take longer, and you will use a traditional over and stove. This is a MAD tek – Microwave Assisted Drytek.
A few plastic containers that are safe for acetone – there are a few different styles. Choose one that is good for you. Be sure to make sure that they are microwave safe, and that it has the appropriate Recycling code for use with acetone.
Rubber gloves
Goggles
Mask
Glass precipitation dish
Funnel
Cotton/coffee filter

Some people prefer going strait to step 2 - as the microwave is not a needed factor to get alks from the cactus. There are speculations that the microwave might damage the mescaline molecule - I have not personally had this experience - it's all worked well for me (aside from the fumaric attempt - the mescaline fumarate was weak; the sulfate was strong). But, to show full disclosure, and allow you to make your own decision, there you have it.
Preparation
1. Weigh your cactus powder to desired amount (28grams). Put the powder in a microwave safe plastic container that has a lid. Add enough Distilled or DI water so that the mix becomes aqueous and soupy. Add a small amount of citric or fumaric acid to the mix, and stir it in. After the acid is mixed, loosely apply the lid to the container – make sure it is not a tight fit – you want to be sure that the water can escape when cooked. Put the container in the microwave, and nuke it for 1.5mins. After cooking, removed and stir. Repeat 2 more times, removing and stirring in between cooks. After the third cook, remove it and let it cool.

Cactus Drying
Dried cactus ground to a powder in blender
Water added
Citric Acid
Add a little more water after stirring in the acid,,, when it looks like this, it is time to cook!
After 2 cooks in the Microwave
After 3 cooks - ready to let cool


2. While the cactus blend is cooling, place a sufficient layer of Magnesium Sulfate in one of the microwave safe containers, and nuke for 3 mins. After the cook, take it out and mix it up. Nuke for another 3 mins, and then mix. Repeat until the Magnesium Sulfate is dehydrated. It may not take that long, depending on how much you use. Once dehydrated, use HALF this to dry the acetone. Mix the dry magnesium sulfate with a sufficient amount of acetone (~500ml). Tightly secure with a lid then shake it periodically. After mixed well, set it in the freezer to settle. Store the other half with the lid tightly secured in the container which was used to dehydrate (otherwise the Magnesium Sulfate will begin to absorb moisture from the air).


Ready for use


3. By now, the cactus mix should be cooled off. If it is too dry, then add a small amount of water – enough so that calcium hydroxide can be mixed in. The weight of the Calcium Hydroxide should be equal or slightly greater than the amount of cactus which was initially used – for the demonstration, 1/3 cup of Ca(OH)2 was used. Stir this mix really well. It is important that there are no pockets of unblended Calcium Hydroxide. If more water is needed to completely blend the Ca(OH)2, then add a small amount. Once mixed, then add the remaining dehydrated magnesium sulfate to the mix, blending thoroughly, and allow the mix to dry over the period of a few hours. If it is still wet, then it more magnesium sulfate may be dried and blended to the mix. It is important that this is as dry as possible.

Calcium Hydroxide
Mixing...
Mixed!
Add Dehydrated Magnesium Sulfate

4. Preparation of Acid saturated Acetone: update:***Preferedsulfuric acid non concentrated do not add this to acetone, you can titrate directly into the mix at step 6. If you do not have access to non concentrated sulfuric acid, you can make a CASA as described below:

If you are going to take this approach, while the mix is drying, it is time to make the CASA Citric Acid Saturated Acetone. The acetone in the freezer should be dry at this point, and the magnesium sulfate should have settled to the bottom of the container. If not, you can use a coffee filter to separate the suspended magnesium sulfate particles. Use 50-100ml of dry acetone, and completely saturate with your acid of choice. Add as much acid as the mix will take. There will likely be some residual acid granules on the bottom of the mixing container. Make sure to keep this covered while the acid is dissolving into the acetone – we don’t want moisture to transfer from the air.

5. The cactus mix should be dry. The acetone should be dry. Time to pull. Remove the remaining dry acetone from the freezer and pour 200ml in to the cactus/Ca(OH)2/Mag Sulf mix. Mix over the course of a few minutes. Pour the acetone off the mix into a container. Pour another 100ml of the remaining acetone into the cactus mix. Mix for a few min, and pour into the same container as the other pull. This can be repeated until the mix no longer yields mescaline.

Dry Cactus mix!
Pull
Use the lid to your advantage!



6. Filter the acetone through a coffee filter, or medium-packed cotton, using an acetone safe funnel. Place the filtered tone in the precipitation dish. Titrate with the NON CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID(updated best choice) or CASA until you no longer see precipitation forming in the solution **(you may not see any – if this is the case, the acetone need to be evaporated completely, and then final product cleaned with cold dry acetone washes to remove excess oils and acids)*** . Cover the precipitation tray, and place in the freezer for a few hours. Precipitation should form on the bottom and sides.

Collected/filtered pulls (left); FASA (right)


7. After it appears that all precipitation has crashed from solution, prepare another funnel with a filter or cotton wad. Filter the solution and collect the precipitation in the coffee filter or the cotton wad; or pour off remaining solvent/decant.

Precipitation of pull #1
Dried collection of pull #1
Pull #2 precipitation
Pull #2 dried and collected


8. After all tone is filtered, evap to check for remaining alkaloids.


9. The mescaline sulfate / mescaline citrate should be in the filter or the cotton, or in the precipitation tray if you chose to pour off the solvent. Place filter or cotton in a small amount of distilled or DI water, and allow the alkaloids to dissolve into the aqueous solution. Strain filters, and allow the water to evaporate. The remaining solids will be Mescaline salts and possible plant fats or oils. Clean as see fit – using a re-crystal method, or cold dry acetone washes.

10. Take all the mescaline and throw it away, because mescaline is illegal.

Another win for MAE!

Brilliant, and a solid contribution that I will be trying some time this winter-- been looking for a good mesc tech.

Thank you Acacia et. al.!

Great tek! Thanks for sharing. What ended up being the final % on that semi monstrose pachanoi? And what do you reckon is the equivalent for a HCl dose?

excellent, and you're welcome!! please do give it a try!




So far, with 2 pulls, I have a total of 980mg of cleaned mescaline fumarate. That's about 3.5% from the pachanoi monstrose, not bad at all! And there may be more in there, I have not done a third pull to see. As far as the dosage, it is uncertain whether one fumarate bonds with one or two mescaline molecules. Fumaric acid is diprotic, and CAN form bonds with 2 molecules, as seen with DMT. Unfortunately, not much info is known about mescaline and the fumaric acid relation. So, it could be that one fumaric grabs 1, or 2, or mixed. Some grabbing one, others grabbing two. This uncertainty makes it hard to calculate a molecular weight - which would be needed to compare the dose between HCl and Fumarate....

For reference, the molecular weight of Mescaline HCl is about 248amu and lets assume the worse, which is that it's a 1:1 ratio of mescaline to fumarates. That would give us a molecular weight of about 327.4amu. (248/327.4) = 0.76
Mescaline fumarate dose is about = to 3/4 dose of HCL.

BUT, if mescaline has a 2:1 ratio, then that is a different story. Since two mesc bind with one fumaric, the amu would be 211+211+116= 538amu. since we are dealing in balanced numbers, we need to multiply the molecular weight of the HCl by 2. So, 2 * 248 = 496amu.
Now, (496/538 ) = .923 - so if fumaric's diprotic properties DO allow it to bind with two mescaline molecules, then the dosage is very close to HCl.

Wow thanks, great pictoral. And crazy yields, congrats. Have you done any other extractions on the same material for comparison? Like is the high yield due to the tek or is that just one hell of a cactus?

I'm glad this showed up when it did since I've got ~120g good cactus powder I've been looking to do something with (other than minidose) and I just can't be bothered with rons tek again. I'll probably give it a shot soon.

Thanks again!

Wow, incredible! Nearly a gram from a 12inch cutting and only 2 pulls! Of course, alkaloid content can vary significantly from cactus to cactus but nonetheless, truly amazing! Seems pretty simple and straight forward. I will have to give this a try sometime.

You are truly one of the pioneers of microwave teks! The only thing I don't have on hand is fumaric acid but that can easily be remedied! Thank you so much for this!

oops, double post.

Coincidentally, my 666th post.

Hey Slewb! Thanks for the enouraging words! This was actually the first extraction on this specific cactus marerial. I had done this tek on some PC pachanoi, using CASA instead of FASA. The yield was a lot less - as expected from a PC. But, there was still mescaline there, just less of it.

I was uncertain of what I would find. I asked around if anyone knew the theoretical yield %, but it appears as this morph has little info shared about it. I will include a pic of the top cut which is rooting, and one of the mid cuts - the one I extracted. I am not sure if this content will be found in all the Trichocereus pachanoi semi-monstrose, but it most certainly has put them on my radar. I will be looking to get more monstrose cuttings .

I did test this mescaline with a Marquis regent test, and it tested positive for mescaline . I will be eating my entire extract in the upcoming weekend or so, and will write an experience report.



Thank you! Ya'll are making me blush! I look forward to seeing some people post their yields in this thread!

Anyone - feel free to come find me in the Nexus-Chat if you have any questions. Or, post them here!

Cool, I'm hoping more of us cacti growers will do this on their cacti so we can start collecting info on clones in circulation. Might also say something about conditions it was grown in too possibly.

There's a few nice techniques in here, well done! I didn't realize freebase mescaline was soluble in acetone, nice!

Whats the need for citric acid?

Is citric acid soluble in acetone?

And why the need for super dry acetone? If mescaline fumarate crashes out of acetone like that then surely it will still precipitate with water in the acetone much like sulfate salts, or is that an incorrect assumption?

Hey antichode,

I use the citric acid in the acid cooks vs fumaric due to the amount I have, and the price comparison. You don't need to have both, you can choose one or the other. (or both)

Yes citric is soluble in acetone, and that what was I initially used in this process on some of my earlier test runs. CASA - citric acid saturated acetone. It works, but here is the main difference, IMO.... Citric acid is triprotic, but the issue is that it likely only binds with one mescaline molecule before they precipitate out of the solution. So, not really an issue other than the molecular weight of citric acid is higher than fumaric. Making "x" amount of citrate seeming less potent that "x" of fumarates or HCl. And, for intensive purpose, it is less potent per weight since there is a higher ratio of acid contributing to the total weight of mescaline citrate.

So, this is personal preference, I would rather have a higher rate of mescaline in the final yield than the acid which i use to salt it. For reference, Fumaric is about 116 g/mol and citric is 192 g/mol.

As mentioned above, in reply to muskogee herbman, i mention the unknown relationship between mescaline and fumaric acid. More studies should be done by more qualified people than myself .

Here's that summary:


Mescaline fumarate and citrate are slightly soluble in acetone, and highly soluble in water. When we crash the alks out, if there is excess water in the mix, then the mescaline will redissolve into the solution. This can happen, and if so, it is ok. Just completely evap the solution, and clean the final evap with a few Cold Dry Acetone washes. I keep and evap all these washes, as each one will pull a small amount of alks.

After collecting all the washes and evapping them, i then do a wash on that!

Just read and took notes on this entire Tek. Thanks so much!

Glad the procedure is published here.
Many thank you's to all who worked on it


Did I mention ?

!!!!!

Also, I wanted to add:

I tried it with Sulfuric acid saturated acetone(SASA), and that may be my favorite so far.

Much thanks to antichode for giving me reason to try a SASA precipitation on some peruvian torch - in order to compare the use of fumaric and sulfuric acid when precipitating mescaline from acetone.

Well, I must say, sulfuric is probably the better way to approach this.

I noticed that the sulfuric began an immediate crash of alks, much more noticable than when using FASA or CASA.

All three acids (Citric, fumaric, and sulfuric) can be used to crash the mescaline alks out of the acetone, but fumaric and citric most certainly require dry acetone. Sulfuric does not. I will probably be proceding forward with ONLY sulfuric, for personal preference, but all are possible, depending on what the extractor already has.

you can mess around with the ratio of water to acetone and end up with some very nice crystals i.e. if you have more water in the mix often the mescaline doesn't form clouds but very slowly precipitates shards which overnight will grow quite large.

Thank you for a really practical and easy extraction tutorial

Xylene is such an inferior solvent for mescaline so this one has earned its place on the wiki for sure. Although chloroform is close to ideal (tetrachloroethene aka drycleaning would probably be sweet too), acetone and salting out should be more or less equal to chloroform considering all the washing stages you need for a/b.

I tried it on yopo seeds with citric acid and it worked pretty well. Citrate salts tend to be amorphous and not crystalline so you get a mold-able chunk of bufotenine-citrate. Though it works well for separating the base-fraction of actives. The acetone doesn't have to be anhydrous, also I suspect citric acid to be very water retentive, so it might take some work to dry it either way.

Very innovative! I'm thoroughly impressed with this method and the quality of your result.

where may I find the bio-assay write-up of said material?

So, I finally got around to trying the initial extract - and I have a lot to add to the tek, and make adjustments.

1. Bioassay
2. Why Sulfuric?
3. Opinions of Fumaric acid.

1) The Bioassay of the mescaline fumarate was an odd one. I coincidentally took it (900mg after final cleaning) the same day that the attacks in Paris took place. I was in the Nexus Chat, beginning to peak, when a user came into the chat and informed of us the attacks that were taking place in Paris. Needless to say, it was an odd trip. A lot of confusion about how I should feel. A lot of empathy, and for the most part, it was not the easiest trip. I have had better.

It was the most intense (known valvue) mescaline trip I have had so far, comparing to the other known highest value at 400mg HCl. I have had one other more intense mescaline trip on and unknown amount of cactus resin.

2) I am, eventually, going to adjust the original post of the tek to show that sulfuric acid is the preferred acid for the MMMADtek. It is prefered because it will allow the Mescaline sulfate to easily precipitate, even in the presence of water. One thing that I have found - Water is inevitable. You can do a really thorough job drying the acetone, but there is still going to be atmospheric water that will find its way into the solvent.

When excess water enters the acetone: as the mescaline is precipitating, it will re dissolve into the water that enters the acetone via gas exchange. This can be problematic for fumaric and citric acid. However, Mescaline sulfate is much less soluble in water than citrate or fumarate, and will still readily crash from the Mescaline Saturate Acetone when precipitated via SASA (Sulfuric acid saturated acetone).

3) Of the three acids, I think that Fumaric acid is the least effective for crashing the mescaline from acetone. It IS effective if titrated, and then evaporated, and then cleaned with multiple cold dry acetone washes. BUT, it is not the preferred acid. I know that I initially wrote that fumaric is the best choice, but after testing, I retract that opinion.

I think Sulfuric is the most effective, with Citric following, and fumaric as the least effective.

To add, when I first did this tek, I did it with citric - before all the others. And citric worked great! actually, in hindsight, better than fumaric. But, the only thing I had against citric was the higher molar mass. Between sulfuric, fumaric and citric weighs the most. The heavier weight might throw off the assumed dose - for some of the folks who are less savvy with chemistry. However, if sulfuric is not available to you, consider citric.

A quick search on SASA doesn't give much.

Would SASA have comparable benefits for DMT as it does for mesc?
Sorry for the side step on the topic.

Tkank you for all the works

Hey Jees, sorry for the delayed response. SASA is not something that much information is shared about, but it is essentially the same thing as the other acid saturation methods.

Add sulfuric acid to dried acetone, until you see it begin to precipitate (most sulfuric is sold as a liquid diluted acid). And then use it as you would use a FASA or a CASA.


As far as DMT.... I am not sure! Perhaps it is something that we need to look further into.