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ACRB TEK 100g "PICS" (Newbie Friendly) Options
 
Earthwalker
#101 Posted : 11/25/2014 1:42:21 AM

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Spiritofspice wrote:
DreaMTripper wrote:
Hey EW have you tried pulling from the solution with xylene or toluene (or something that will pull full spectrum) after the final baseing and naptha pulls then evaporating it to see if there are any other alkaloids that could be yielded?


I wonder what would happen if the original base soups was pulled with toluene then back salted (The EW tek).
Then based and pull with napatha I wonder if yields could be increased.


Very interesting , but what I do is I do five or six pulls with the mini ab then cool slowly then fully evape in a ventilated room to get fairly pure glass shard crystals , then over then next 2-3days do pulls on the orig base soup and also let it cool and evape fully to get a very brown crystaline wax with the most unusual texture , it's absolutely beautiful to look at and smoalk pure bliss Love
 

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Earthwalker
#102 Posted : 11/25/2014 10:54:05 AM

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Spiritofspice wrote:
Brown and waxy you say.

This is what I pull with napatha mixed with 4% toluene.

Smoalks awesome and is extremely potent and I think has a unique personality.
Even in the Wiki there is a mention of the potent wax.



That's the stuffff Big grin
 
Blastronaut
#103 Posted : 11/27/2014 3:20:58 AM

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Are you sure the half gallon jug, used for the A/B soup, was HDPE2?

 
starway6
#104 Posted : 12/1/2014 2:11:36 AM

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IMO it would still contain the nmt as I don't remove or wish to remove wth dry ice ,

in my last extraction ..
At first.. i just caused an over saturated effect and poured off the napatha into another jar and then evaporated the wet crysyals till powder dry..

Once durring a re crystalization using a freezeer..I seemed to notice a more pure NN DMT effect when i tryed the product..it seemed more intense on come up and very visual eyes open or closed..

Ive been under the beleife that re crystalizing acacia causes a more pure NNDMT product..posibly with only traces of NMT...
.
Ill try to put photos of my over saturated jar of crystals and other pics below...

 
Al-Wasi
#105 Posted : 12/10/2014 2:46:06 AM

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shakan27 wrote:
what would be the procedure for using more material? say i wanted to start with 200g acrb or 400g? im not doing a commercial batch i would just like to save time


It has been found that doing smaller extractions. Like 50-100g at a time seems to yield more then larger ones. Its worth it to take your time.
That moment when you wonder if this time you went too far....

Obviously everything discussed here is the fictional accounts of someone with an out there imagination. I mean really could any of these tales be real?
 
Earthwalker
#106 Posted : 12/10/2014 3:26:32 AM

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Al-Wasi wrote:
shakan27 wrote:
what would be the procedure for using more material? say i wanted to start with 200g acrb or 400g? im not doing a commercial batch i would just like to save time


It has been found that doing smaller extractions. Like 50-100g at a time seems to yield more then larger ones. Its worth it to take your time.


I'll second that Thumbs up

Although I will add you could do 150g in the same 2ltr bottle just place more acidic water for the acid soak say 750ml of ph 2-3 water , then around 120g salt in the saline water , same amount lye , although IMO I put say 55-60grms lye ......and everything else keep the same ..Thumbs up
 
Earthwalker
#107 Posted : 12/10/2014 8:33:47 AM

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shakan27 wrote:
thanks guys! this thread has been a great help Smile


edit:

i also wanted to add that i did all my pulls with hexane then after i had that precipitating in the freezer i did a 50ml toluene pull off of the initial base soup and a 50ml pull off of the base soup from the mini ab, i combined these and got 300mg of hard yellow wax that smells the same as the white xtals. is this wax active? im a lil scared to try it


Yes
 
shakan27
#108 Posted : 12/10/2014 9:12:38 AM

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thanks earthwalker Big grin
 
Earthwalker
#109 Posted : 12/15/2014 11:03:22 AM

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shakan27 wrote:
just wanted to drop a helpful hint, i noticed that during the back salting(?), step two of the mini a/b, after i had added the dmt containing nps to the acid water, the ph of the water jumped to about 9.5-10. leading me to believe that the basic dmt freebase had depleted the hcl, so i added more acid water till the ph was a neutral 7. this increased my yield by .5 grams over my previous run.


Couldn't have ! You need a ph of 2-4 for the dmt to migrate to the water then you discard the nps then re basify to repull with new nps ...
 
Earthwalker
#110 Posted : 12/16/2014 9:16:01 AM

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shakan27 wrote:
Earthwalker wrote:
shakan27 wrote:
just wanted to drop a helpful hint, i noticed that during the back salting(?), step two of the mini a/b, after i had added the dmt containing nps to the acid water, the ph of the water jumped to about 9.5-10. leading me to believe that the basic dmt freebase had depleted the hcl, so i added more acid water till the ph was a neutral 7. this increased my yield by .5 grams over my previous run.


Couldn't have ! You need a ph of 2-4 for the dmt to migrate to the water then you discard the nps then re basify to repull with new nps ...


sorry my post wasnt very clear. the water was at a ph 2 when i initially added the nps then it went up to 9.5-10. wouldnt the ph of the water become more neutral as the basic dmt freebase is converted to dmt hcl?


IMO the acidic water will stay very acidic , it has to stay in the low 4s , otherwise if it didn't stay at ph 9 it defeats the purpose of the mini AB , other wise you're dmt would stay in the nps In which you discarded , unless you're just doing a wash ??
 
Pixar
#111 Posted : 1/5/2015 12:09:57 AM

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Thank you for this tek ! I just have one question : since I lack ph meters right now, how much of 31,45% HCl should I add to the starting mixture and last one to get the desired ph ?

 
Earthwalker
#112 Posted : 1/5/2015 2:03:35 PM

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Pixar wrote:
Thank you for this tek ! I just have one question : since I lack ph meters right now, how much of 31,45% HCl should I add to the starting mixture and last one to get the desired ph ?




Um I couldn't tell without a ph meter as I use normal hydrochloric acid and with that I use roughly a small cap full , but just to be sure a ph meter is a great tool to have & there cheap as chips "$10" on eBay so I'd use normal white vinegar just to be sure , Thumbs up
 
lewinii
#113 Posted : 1/5/2015 10:16:42 PM

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well done, thank you for sharing this pictorial.
"science never proves anything; you can never duplicate an event precisely at the same moment in time as the initial event. science can only show correlation from the evidence and data derived from it." -benzyme

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lowjackal
#114 Posted : 1/7/2015 7:03:39 PM

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What is the reason for adding salt before the lye is added?
"Keep your friends close and your enemies dismembered."
Lowjackal original quote
 
Earthwalker
#115 Posted : 1/7/2015 8:22:47 PM

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lowjackal wrote:
What is the reason for adding salt before the lye is added?

It gives the water a charge that pushes the dmt out in the first 4-5 pulls , that's my understanding anyway , hope it help ... You can read up more about it in cybs max-ion Tek papers that he submitted .....Thumbs up
 
Pixar
#116 Posted : 1/10/2015 5:28:16 PM

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Earthwalker wrote:
Pixar wrote:
Thank you for this tek ! I just have one question : since I lack ph meters right now, how much of 31,45% HCl should I add to the starting mixture and last one to get the desired ph ?




Um I couldn't tell without a ph meter as I use normal hydrochloric acid and with that I use roughly a small cap full , but just to be sure a ph meter is a great tool to have & there cheap as chips "$10" on eBay so I'd use normal white vinegar just to be sure , Thumbs up



Ok so I ended up using a CUP of HCl loll (just had to use a lot more NaOH). In the end it seems to have worked out fine.. Not done pulling though so yield is roughly half of 1.7g but quality seems to be very good. I will try posting pics

Oh and btw is it fine if I let my bark in the basic solution for a few days ?.. It wasn't very fine so I though this could help

Thank you

Edit : first picture had a purification step to it an second did not.. I noticed the crystals in the first pic we're sticky so I mixed it up with muleine.. Second picture is very white and powdery (not sticky at all).. What do you think may have made the first pics crystal sticky ? Plant fats not present after more pulls ?
Pixar attached the following image(s):
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image.jpg (2,141kb) downloaded 1,249 time(s).
 
Earthwalker
#117 Posted : 1/11/2015 5:03:53 AM

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Very nice Pixar , I like doing a full evaporation over night to get these beauty's
Earthwalker attached the following image(s):
image.jpg (563kb) downloaded 1,251 time(s).
image.jpg (413kb) downloaded 1,234 time(s).
image.jpg (623kb) downloaded 1,223 time(s).
image.jpg (671kb) downloaded 1,215 time(s).
 
Pixar
#118 Posted : 1/11/2015 3:34:00 PM

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Mmm beautiful ! Smile

Have you ever happened to get crystals that we're sticky after the first few pulls ?

 
--Shadow
#119 Posted : 1/18/2015 9:55:23 AM

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The mini A/B gives much cleaner results than a Re-x. Thumbs up

One addition.... in between Step3 and Step4, I filtered thru coffee filters to get the last bits of gunk out.
Make sure the coffee filters you run some distilled water thru first, and then some more at the end to flush anything that may be trapped in filter.

Throughout recorded time and long before, trees have stood as sentinels, wise yet silent, patiently accumulating their rings while the storms of history have raged around them --The living wisdom of trees, Fred Hageneder
 
smokerx
#120 Posted : 1/24/2015 9:04:45 PM

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I wonder how would this tek work with MHRB. Anyone tried that ?
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