So I decided to rextal some yellowish spice I had pulled using cybs max ion tek. When I did the extract I made sure to pull with warm NPS no hotter then 40° as I read any hotter and it will just redissolve plant oils your trying to remove.

Anyways after freeze precipitation I figured I'd try a rextal as I never had. I used around 30ml of naphtha for a gram of spice and once again made sure not to warm to naphtha over 45 degrees.

To my surprise after freeze precipitation once I had finished the rextal my gram of yellow spice turned into just barely a half of gram. My question is is this normal loss of yield? I figured it would only lose maybe a quarter gram at the most.

If this is typical I may resort back to the normal salt tek as when I was using it with room temperature naphtha and warm base soup I was pulling pure white xtal with no need to rextal.

If this is not typical what could have possibly gone wrong. This seems kind of tricky as I've read if you heat it to much u just redissolve what your trying to remove. However if you don't get it hot enough not all the DMT will dissolve into solution right?

I should ask if doing a defat or mini a/b as u would for acacia would prevent the need to rextal and result in only white crystal after freeze precipitation ? It would seem that would be the best method of getting clean spice rather then having to rextak and re freeze. Figure may as well just defat if this in fact will result in white spice even if a lot of plant fats and oil are pulled due to temp lyseing etc

You'll have to freeze precipitate after a mini A/B anyway, and if you intend to do one then there is no need for a defat step as a mini A/B is far more efficient.

If you have trouble cleaning precipitated spice I swear by a mini A/B. A loss of half your yield could happen if it was very impure. You would end up leaving behind a lot of gunk in the redissolving in naphtha but this gunk is usually still full of DMT. A mini a/b on this gunk will yield much cleaner spice than trying to dissolve it all and precipitate it in naphtha.

If you left behind some of the yield as gunk and saved it, then you have done the right thing.

I know you have to freeze precipitate after the mini I was referring to the fact that it prevents you from having to freeze precipitate more then once.

If you could explain what the difference between a defat and a mini a/b is? I thought they were the same ...

defat = making pulls directly from the plant material while it's in the acidic soup before you base initially in order to remove fats and oil, requires a lot of solvent and isn't very efficient, then base and pull.

mini a/b = do a STB, dissolve the dirty xtals in acidic water, then make pulls to remove fats and oils, much less solvent required and much more efficient, then base and repull.

My guess is you probably used too much solvent in your re-x and a lot of the material is still in the solvent. The idea is to use the very minimal amount possible to dissolve the material such that it is super saturated and when the temp drops the material has nowhere to go and precips out of the solvent.

Try evapping the solvent, I bet you'll be able to recover a lot more.

Al-Wasi I too didn't see the need for all the extra hours of effort with the max-ion tek as good as it is but unless I really wanted to get maximum yield , but , in the amounts I do , 100g extractions I just go with the salt Tek with a mini AB at the end as seen here
https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=58064 as it produces beautiful white fluffy goodness ! And I only lose around .05% buy downgrading from max-ion to salt tek !
My advice give my tek a go !! BTW my ave yeild is around 1.7% with ACRB with this method !