awesome tech phlux, thank you very much!

Can one use calcium hydroxide in the first instance (when mixing with the ground seeds)? I have already been mixing my seeds before seeing this tek.

i found it to reduce the end yeild by half - and it makes the product red.
if you leave it for more than 12 hours - whatever comes out seems to be inactive.
hydroxides seem to kill bufo.
i dont consider it an alternative.

Phlux- knows his stuff here.

SWIM did tests with pure bufotenine and calcium hydroxide. If mixed in calcium hydroxide and water for 24 hours, bufotenine becomes completely inactive by smoking. But if the same bufotenine is mixed for 24 hours in sodium carbonate, it remains active.

I believe hydroxides mess with bufotenine’s hydroxyl group and eventually cause it to come apart. If you use hydroxides, make sure the pH doesn’t go up past about 9.5 and you should be ok. At higher pH values with hydroxides as the base, I believe bufotenine, which is 5-HO-DMT, becomes Ca+ -5-O-DMT for a short while and then it comes apart. I don’t think carbonates are able to cause that kind of degradation to the molecule, no matter what pH is used. The same should hold true for psilocin (4-HO-DMT).

So have you bio-assayed the product yet? How clean does this product feel? A bit hesitant, considering how toxic (vaso, nausea) many people's extracts were.

How much fumeric should be mixed with the acetone and how much of the FASA should be used ideally?

The acetone should be saturated so keep stirring until no more desolves, then leave it a few hours and stir again. Then you just keep adding this slowly to the acetone pulls until no more clouds appear.

Ok, cool thanks!

That's the best avatar btw

^^I concur

Thanks, which was it? I just changed mine recently. The current one or the Shaman?


Ok so I added my FASA, It clouded my acetone pulls up but not like yours did. Its still cloudy yellow with slightly white tint setting in at the top. I dont see any crystals forming on the sides like yours but there is a percipitate at the bottom that looks tannish but it isnt stuck to the sides and flows with the acetone when tipped so I'll have to filter it out. I think there may have actually been a percipitate there before adding the FASA. Should I add more FASA to it to see if crystals form and make it a cloudy white instead of yellow?


Was it necessary to let the acetone sit with the fumeric in it to fully saturate it? I added excess until it stopped dissolving but forgot to let it sit for a few hours and just filtered it. Should I add more fumeric and let it sit???


EDIT: Ok so I added quite a bit more FASA and crystals started to form, apparently I was being too shy with adding the fumeric.

So now Ive got a light tan fumerate drying and will proceed from here.

Phlux, any word on giving us some pics of the purity step. My hamster just got some cebil from maya and is about to have another go at some crystals. His last attempt got a little sketchy after freebasing the fumarates.

Peaches

what was the problem after freebasing the fumarates you had?

the clearing up works perfectly, its sort of like when recrystalizing spice that a bottom goo doesnt dissolve and you decant/pippete your solvent away (in this case 4:1 naphtha:acetone bufo-filled mix)

I'm still trying to perfect the purifying steps myself. I feel like I'm not efficently getting all the goodness out of goo like I do with a xylene/limonene boil.

Though I'm finding I get better results if I oven dry the goo so it can be finely chopped into a powder, then mixing the 4:1 naphtha:acetone then stirring in the goods for a good five minutes, then repeating on the goo with a fresh solvent mix until no more comes out and the goo turns to a jet black solid upon drying.

This should get all the goodies and leave you with a product good enough to smoke. But if you're like me and are still humping the crystal dream you'll want to repeat the purifying steps the the collected bufotenine with a more polar solvent mix, though this is unecassary really.

Is swiy's final product solid or slimy? Swim's cat got the fumarates, then fb'd with an equal amount of sodium carb. The caramel appeared, which was dried, the dissolved in the 4:1 solvent mix. After the solvent evapped, was left with oily stuff.




Swim has just about fucked it to death, no such luck for him.

Seems like many folks are getting stumped after the fb.

put your oily stuff in the oven at 200f for 20 minutes.

... or even after drying your freebased extract have it evaporate on a flat glass dish and then put that in the oven and then scrape it up with a razor blade, which will hopefully result in a dry powder that's very easy to work with.

That's one thing about this tek I would add. It's not essential, but it's definately something that's very simple to do that improves the results so why not eh?

I wouldn't try to toast it like folk do with the seeds sometimes, but a little heat definately tidy's the end result.

Thanks soulfood. Looks promising. Swims oily stuff is in the process of drying.

SWIM's stuff was hard tan crystals.. did you have a goo that did not dissolve in the clean up stage and that you left behind?

maybe repeating the clean up with small amount of solvent could work..

but yeah try evapping in oven and see if it works and tell us about it

I saw this unanswered question earlier in the thread: Can FASI substitute for FASA.
I'd assume yes; SWIM is not very found of Acetone and is therefore curious.
Thank you knowledgeable ones...

Even with all the mixed reports, the excellent reviews creates intrigue worthy of pursuit...

FASI can be used in place of FASA – my acetone supplies were running out so my last go was FASI. Worked just as well. Someone in the thread @ https://dmt-nexus.me/for...aspx?g=posts&t=10071 also mentioned having used it, but not in the post-freebase clean up step (I’ve not tried IPA in clean up either).

Anyone used IPA in place of acetone in the clean up step? Will that work too?