Here is the dmt citrate oil candidate settling. Minimal work so far, but should be very pure dmt citrate and soluble/miscible with PG/VG. This could be a quick and direct way to a clean vapable dmt salt in e-juice.

The days of longer A/B extractions, conversions, and purifying FB may be over for me. We shall see...

Last step is complete. Got 4.6g of honey based on the empty jar delta weight. Assuming/guessing we have a mono dmt citrate salt with a couple water monecules that is ~ 2g of DMT for 100g of bark. This was dissolved in 6g of 50/50 PG/VG. Done in a hot water bath. First image has resulting e-juice in the salting jar and second image has the ejuice in a syringe ready to load. Estimated DMT strenght is 20%. However, there is no analysis to confirm. Disclaimer is that I could be wrong.

I vaped it with a 1.4 ohm pod on a geekvape wemax h1. Very smooth at all 3 power levels and effects where felt 🤩

I cannot overstate how smooth and good tasting this e-juice is.

Will also try 0.7 ohm pod. That should be more intense, but not sure it could get to blastoff level. For me, dmt salt e-juice can be used with sublingual harmalas for a deeper experience.

After coming down from a sweet DMT buzz I wrote up a TEK for the approach followed in the last few posts.

No fussing around with frer base or cleanups/purification. The salting process seems to precipitate very clean product. This purity is needed to not clog the more sensitive electronic mesh coil device flow. I think this is a good approach that simplifies processing and hope it can be a contribution to the community.

Would love to hear where I could be making mistakes and improve.

Cheers.

I recommend extract with EtOAc, dry, distill and then recrystallise with hexane

Why do you reccomend this? Other than getting FB, isn't it simpler/less work to precipitate DMT directly with citric acid as DMT citrate from the EA? Assuming of course we are not wrong about the orange honey being mostly DMT citrate.

I kinda want to give HIELO a try.
Would this be worth trying on shredded bark?

I don't think so. From experience I think these no-long-boil teks need fine grind powder to easily dissolve the goods into the solvent after basing.

A few minutes in a good coffee grinder is needed in my opinion. It saves energy vs. long boils and (unless you are burning brush scraps for the boil) is greener (in my opinion).

Freebase and crystalline. Much nicer than a salt goo...

Apparently DMT citrate forms an almost solid wax at room temp.
My experience has been that the resulting wax traps a bit of EA with it, I had to put it in a hot bath and add a few drops of water to get it liquid enough for the EA to be able to evaporate.

Did you dry the EA chemically before salting?

Is n-Hexane similar to n-Heptane in any way?

I did not.
It did precipitate as a honey though, but after a single rinse it became almost solid.
I was working with small quantities, looks like the EA was able to absorb all the water out of the honey.

Ok, I didn't notice the EA not evaporating well. Good to know. I simply left it out for a while until the weight stopped changing. The smell of EA was completely gone by then. May have been at least overnight drying though. In retrospect it may have been a long time compared to how EA usually evaporates (minutes).

How long did you wait for EA to evaporate passively? Are you sure it didn't just need more time in your case?

I left it for a few days, the smell was gone, I just noticed that heating it up made it bubble and release EA smell.

The wax didnt seem that soluble in pg/vg, I forgot to weight it though... it took around 8ml of e-juice(70/30 pg/vg) to dissolve it and I only used 500mg of citric acid for the salting.

They are both straight-chain, saturated alkanes. Heptane is the immediate homologue of hexane. Hex = six, hept = seven carbon atoms.

Hey Nexus friends,

I have a question on this tek:

The tek was scaled down to 25g MHRB, pulled a couple of times with around 30ml after the initial 50ml EA, yielding a total of about 250ml EA.

After being in the fridge for about 14 hours, there is no visible water layer at the bottom. Above the level of the liquid, there are tiny droplets around the wall, but very little, could be condensation from the air in the jar.

So:
- Is this already good to go for salting with citric acid?

- Is it really a fridge that is meant? How about putting it in the freezer? Would the water freeze allowing the EA to be decanted from the ice?

- An older version of the tek mentions chemical drying with CaCl2. The tek still mentions it as a necessary material, but it is longer mentioned in the text. Why has this been removed, i.e. are there any downsides to using it?

Thanks!

Yes it's a fridge. Freezing causes both ice and DMT to crash out (which, incidentally, I found out by reading this very thread). Drying with CaCl2 prevents the citric acid from dissolving; maybe it would help with freeze precipitation if that turned out to be a goal. Which 'tek' still mentions CaCl2? A link would be helpful since outdated information can be edited if necessary.

The tek I'm referring to is the HIELO page in the wiki:
https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/HIELO

Under 'Consumables' it lists: , but makes no further mention of the CaCl2.

So, to summarize: neither freezing nor CaCl2 is helpful, so without any discernable water layer after the fridge treatment, is this good to go for adding the citric acid, or should anything else be done to deal with potential water in the solution?

Sorry if this should be a trivial question, I'm just a bit concerned as it is mentioned often that water will prevent the DMT citrate from precipitating.

Correct - if you're following HIELO to the letter, neither a freezer nor the calcium chloride will be required.

https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m....A9.E2.80.8D.F0.9F.8C.BE Its presence here in the consumables section is a throwback form the method development phase. It gets mentioned in this post and more particularly in this post.

The main thing as regards water is to avoid bringing liquid water into the EA pulls as opposed to dissolved water, which is relatively unimportant and taken care of by the fridge rest were it to be present in excess. As long as you have no liquid water present in the precipitation jar - and no particulates, for that matter - you'll be fine to proceed with adding the citric. If it looks as though there are any water droplets anywhere in the jar after the fridge rest, it's best to decant into a clean, dry vessel.

The precipitation from ethyl acetate is pretty robust; it's things like acetone and isopropanol that may get lossy if they're too damp.

Alright, this is super helpful. Thanks a lot for the details and linking the posts, much appreciated.