Note: the next section is a work in process and was just typed up, will correct spelling and grammar later.
Doing the above steps will only yield the white N-N-Dimethyltryptamine. Generally with high quality inner root bark that is average 1%.
But the bark has a lot more than just that. Althoug mostly toxins that cause nausea when eaten, there are also some other psychoactive alkaloids similar to DMT
Yellow N-N-DMT-oxides and the red "Jungle" alkaloids
Older bark will tend to have less white N-N-DMT and more N-N-DMT-oxides unless stored in dark-cold-airtight places.
Never fret though, N-N-DMT-oxides are very useful for smoking and with pharmahuasca, producing noticeably different visual and mental effects though having similar durations.
Oxides, as they will we referred to from now on, are soluble in very hot naptha and d-limonene/xylene (cold or hot)
The "Jungle" alkaloids are a group of alkaloids that are not soluble in naptha at all and are slightly soluble in d-limonene and xylene.
SWIM has yet to do a proper solubility test but he estimates 1-5mg/ml, although one of the alkaloids is much more soluble than the rest in d-limonene (he's counted 3 so far)
Jungle when smoked is also similar in duration and method to N-N-DMT but noticeably different than N-N-DMT and oxides.
Both Jungle and Oxides are difficult to crystallize and are generally in the form of a thick and oily liquid. So working with them is much different than N-N-DMT.
Note: theses steps while dependable and accurate have not been tested nearly as thoroughly as the method for obtaining the N-N-DMT.
As SWIM works with the tek more there will be less broad amounts and times.How to get the other alkaloids out:After the last non-polar washes is done then all the N-N-DMT should be out of the bark. There are several methods to get a pure product so several will be mentioned.
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For only N-N-Oxides: This method, while much more difficult than the full-alkaloid can be used to take the Oxides directly from the bark and could be used for those without access to d-limonene/xylene
Non-Polar Wash:NOTE: BE CAREFUL AND NEVER HEAT NAPTHA DIRECTLY, SWIM HAS SET FIRE IN HIS KITCHEN AND BURNED HIS HAND AND WALL HEATING NAPTHA ON A STOVE!-Use a boiling hot water bath to heat the lime-bark mush, it can be done the same way as in the earlier tek but should be hot, not warm to the touch.
This can take a lot of stirring and boiling water.
-At the same time take either your container of naptha (WITH THE LID OFF!) or a bottle with some naptha in it (ALSO LID OFF!) and place it in a bath of hot tap water
-When the mush and naptha are both hot to the touch then they should be added together. The goal is to keep the whole mix as hot as possible because N-N-oxides are barley soluble in luke-warm water (unlike N-N-DMT) but are quite soluble in hot/boiling naptha.
-Do not let the mix cool too much, it will start precipitating the oxides as it gets closer to room temperature.
within a minute or two the mix should be quite yellow.
-as long as the mix is kept hot it can be mixed for 10-15 minute for best results. Though 2-3 minutes with thorough mixing will get a decent portion of product without risking excess cooling.
-Pour off the naptha from the bark into a precipitation container, idealy one with a large surface area because it will be a thick liquid, not crystals to be worked with.
(Best: barking pan, flat bottom casserole dish)
Freezer Precipitation/evaporation:The naptha can be either placed in the freezer, this will allow the re-using of the naptha although it will likely come out still yellow with some oxides still dissolved.
The alternative is to let the naptha evaporate, another reason for a large surface area. Just place the naptha in a place with good ventilation (a breeze) and some sun could help too (unless it is REALLY REALLY hot out)
SWIM recommends evaporation although each will yield a thick oily yellow goo.
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For Full alkaloids: Jungle + N-N-Oxides.
This method is much easier because no heat is needed (the alkaloids are soluble even at freezer temperatures), though it is longer with more steps.
Non-polar Wash:-Add at least 1ml d-limonene/xylene for every gram of rootbark. More can be used. SWIM has not tested how much is needed to pull all the products, but more pulls can be done later.
-The solvent will turn yellow, similar to stale urine, as soon as it doesn't seems to be getting any darker then the solvent can be poured from the bark.
This can take 20 minutes or can be left for days, it is all about the color and the person's judgment. SWIM tends to leave it for an hour or two.
Although the mix likely contains much more than just the jungle and oxides, the limonene could be evaporated into a smokable product or a freebase pharmahuasca base.
If higher purity is the goal then follow the rest of the the tek.
Acid wash:The Solvent will contain the jungle, the oxides and but it may contain a lot of other junk that just happens to be soluble in limonene/xylene. So to make sure only the alkaloids are pulled out the alkaloids will be salted out of the solution with acidic water.
-Take some sort of acid. Vinegar, Water + Citric acid are best. HCl tends to pull gunk out of the limonene though does work.
(The bag can be replaced by a separatory funnel, if you have one you should know how to use it
)
Place 25ml (or so) of the acid in a zip-lock bag (Ziploc brand works, cheap ones will be destroyed by limonene/xylene)
-then pour the solvent into the bag with the acid. Heat does seem to help the process, SWIM tends to add some hot tap water to make the mix warm, though the amount of water will dictate how long the process will take since it will need to be evaporated.
-Seal the bag and shake it, shake it, shake it. SWIM is not sure how long is needed, once again the color is the judge, the acid will get yellow/red.
Once it is now longer getting more yellow/red then that is the cue to stop.
-Hold one of the corners of the bag so there is also a corner vertical to the floor, then get a pair of scissors.
hold the bag over an empty container, or directly over a dish with a large surface area.
-cut a SMALL hole in the bottom corner of the bag. While the d-limonene gets close to the bottom then pinch the corner.
The goal is not to get any on the top solvent with the bottom water, though a bit is no big deal.
-The acid wash should be repeated using new bags (I know, what a waste) until the acid no longer changes color. 2 or 3 times should be enough, though the color is the judge.
-You should have some limonene that has lost some of it's color but will likely still be slightly yellow. SWIM doesn't know if it would contain actives.
(SWIM's is still evaporating from last month's extraction, it's cold here... don't know if it'll yield anything useful)
-You should also now have some yellow acidic water which containers all the alkaloids that are soluble in limonene in freebase but not in their acid-salt form, that narrows/purifies it a lot.
-Anyway, there are a couple ways to deal with the acid.
If the mix is planned to be used for pharmahuasca, the water can be evaporated to an active product(in a food dehydrator to speed it up, or at room temp)
-If a smokable product is the goal then the mix must be freebased. Any strong base will do the trick.
-SWIM evaporated and mixed the goo with lime.
-Ammonia theoretically could work, so could Lye
-Sodium carbonate can be used (though SWIM has never had success using it in solution, only pastes)
-If Lye or ammonia or sodium carbonate solution is used then the liquid can mixed with d-limonene/xylene, shaken, seperated. Color of the solvent tells you whether the products are dissolved or not.
or
-If lime or sodium carbonate is used once the acid-water has mostly evaporated to make a paste then the paste should be left for several hours, maybe adding a splash of water for better mixing.
-then D-limonene/xylene can be mixed around the paste, you guessed it, use the color to tell you when how much solvent you use
-Either method will give you a d-limonene/xylene containing a nearly pure mix of oxides and jungle. It will then need to be evaporated.
It take a WHILE to evaporate. SWIM has in the past placed his baking pan over a pot of water on
medium, still took several hours though.
it will really stink up where you are doing it though, SWIM really wouldn't recommend doing it with xylene, even the citrus smell of d-limonene was intense.
The end product will be a red/brown oily goo which is very hard to measure/work with. It will be less oily with xylene.
LASTLY
if you would like to seperate the oxides from the jungle then simply mix the goo with boiling naptha stir for a minute or two.
Then take the naptha and leaver it to evaporate on a dish with a large surface area.
The leftover goo will be pure red/brown jungle alkaloids and the naptha will evaporate to leave pure yellow N-N-DMT-oxide.