I believe Ive found .. [posibly better way].. to use E mesh...Without the problem of putting the product directly on the E mesh and spilling some and burning some...thats a hassel!


This new method involves using ..[a partial wad of].. ..a liquid wet pad ] and making it fit into the inner top of the [RDA cap]] and using a normal strip of ss316 mesh as a heater just below the pad....

You can mold it with plyers or your fingers ... then press the [stainless pad] ....
[or stainless or copper chore boy high up as possible inside the RDA cap..a little above the hot E mesh strip.. [it shows where in photos below]

In this method.. you use the E Mesh.. [[only as a Heater]..for the above pad containing the product...

when you take a long slow draw you cause the hot air to flow through the product pad carrying vapor with it..[mostly convection vapor i hope]

for this to work so most of the vapor is vaporized at once..you must test different heat settings till you find the one that works best for convection vapor..

Most RDAs have limited space under the cap...[ but atleast 1/16th of an inch].. clearence would be ok..between the HOT E mesh..and the pad above it containing the product should work fine...

Even if the pad is lightly touching the E mesh..it should still work....

I tested this set up twice tonight and it works without burning the product .if you install it right...
One very nice improvement is ..that you can load your product with a dab spoon through the very top ..then tap the power button a couple times..[making it just hot enough] to melt it in ...

[[photo below with spoon shows where to load spice easily!]

In my test today not having any freebase product..i used my .. material tincture.. with a dropper and loaded the holding pad...again i only used about 5 drops of tincture equaling a posible 10 to 15 mgs of material...[thats not a high dose at all!]

after giving the pad holding the tincture time enough to alow the alcohol to evaporate...a couple hours...

I th en truyed vaping it and.. [using wattage mode only].. I set it to 20 watts a setting that always produced decent white vapor very quickly..although some of it ocasionally burned...

Well the 20 watt setting didnt apeare to vaporize anything?

So i set it to ..25 ..watts...then 30 watts..then i hit 35 watts.. took a hit!... saw very little vapor almost invisable!.....but something hit me like a ton of bricks...i was thrown at 35 watts into a strong trip...for about 35 minutes..

I was thinking what the shit happened!



At first i thought i vaped it all..but after looking through the [RDA cap in the light].. i could still se un vaped spice!

Well i put the vape back together and set it to 40watts! and hit the button..and to my surprise a ton of vapor came out! ..but because of my realing head from the first test.. ..i didnt hold in the vapor...
but.. really!/... 40 watts is kind of high!....[i would try a 25 to 35 watt range.]

I think because im ..[vaping product using hot air only] above the heating mesh...it naturally took more power to reach a vapor producing temperature!

I do believe this method works fairly well once you find the right vapor producing wattage setting!

I think not having the spice directly on the heating mesh.. may prevent burning...i mean the ..material pad.. is very close..almost touching the E Mesh...but if you take a slow long pull with the button down it should vaporize from the hot air riseing above and into and through the product pad .. and taking the pull causing an upward draft .. preventing very.. little if any?.. dripping of product onto the hot mesh below...

If a little tiny bit did drip d own no big deal...it has the advantage of easy loading of product..and it is producing a hot air convection vapor that is very strong...

This new method is in an early stage...but ive seen reasonable proof it works without burning spice if you put it together right and set on the proper heat setting ..

I think this is a much more efective method ..so disregard my last attempt to use a pad directly on the heating mesh...

The heating is better this time.. because im using the SS316 mesh! ..as a heater for the product pad above............ [not the thicker pipe screen in older post]

[the last two photos shows the traped product inside the wire pad..]

i think i should have used a thicker product pad ..maybe a lower wattage would have worke?..

if .. material pad.. is too thin ..too much heat can pass through too fast requiring a higher wattage!

also using a thicker or thinner product pad has an effect on the amount of heat needed to get to vaporizing temperature....it takes testing..


[very beautyfull [light] like visions]

a trip to infinity...
https://youtu.be/fFyC68CIEio


some..photos below..

I am happy to share with many of you something i just discovered about E MESH..conduction to convection!

Ive tested this tonight and it worked twice perfectly!!.....producing reasonably decent convection vapor using material..and material with rue seed...

My effort was close in this last post above!......and you can still use the method above..if you do something before you vape...[i will disclose to you]

My mistake was after trying these different ways to get convection vapor from an E mesh was this....

I was thinking of new ways to load the E mesh..[that was fine]... but i kept taking hits over and over!... and trying different wattages... some settings were too high...with promising results but not quite right...

I think i figured the right way to get fast positive results with EMESH..and this may change the way many of us use EMESH from now on..once we try it and see how good it works...

Forget the old way!... to Vape E mesh..and try this new way..you may like it better...

Ive discovered tonight how to make E mesh perform ..[more like].. a high end desk vaporizer ..atleast with material alone .. or rue seed and spice....



The secret is....[set to a reasonable wattage or temp control]... ive found 20 to 25 watts works well. [as long as i pre heat first!]



first.... [with a product loaded mod]....

step one....HOLD THE FIRE BUTTON DOWN TILL IT TIMES OUT...ATLEAST TWO TIMES!.....you will notice the RDA cap feel kind of hot...by touching it...


After DOING THIS YOU HAVE ..[PRE HEATED]] THE TINY CHAMBER....[very similar way that expensive desk top vaporizors work.. only they take atleast 3 minutes or longer to heat up ..


E mesh only takes about 20 seconds.to pre heat!....and 5 or 10 seconds more to consume!
its much faster!


......[THEN HIT THE FIRE BUTTON ONCE MORE AND SLOWLY TAKE A draw ...]


The vapor will.. come and will be potent! and smoother than the usual conduction way....


[ None of this spice has touched the extreemly hot emesh below...]

.....[the EMESH is only to be used as a heater!]

This way.. only hot air has touched the spice....
[caution..hot air can still burn the material if temp set too high!]

You should notice the difference right away..even very low doses of product will compleatly vaporize this way wasting nothing...and you will feel its effects strongly....

Im using a bubbler with my set up that guarentees a cool vapor....

If you use rue seed or any other herb with the material... and dont have a water trap.[bubbler]
put a small ..[pipe screen on top of load].. or at end of mouth peice ...to prevent inhaling anything airborn.. you only want pure vapor...

You may be able to use the method in post above... [if you pre heat before vaping!]...but i think using the little plastic cap [to put the material and material pad in.] may work best ...ill send some pictures...below

In this newest test i loaded everything into the plastic cap on the mod...the cap that you slide the pipe stem in.....when taking a pull the hot air gets pulled into a bottle neck [the small cap] and may concintrate the heat better..

But mainly the magic is ...[[[pre heating the chamber first!]]... before taking a hit..

in picture number 4 below...the seed basket screen..[using regular pipe screen].. is pushed
.[a ltttle to low]....must be adjusted to keep it from touching the E mesh!

[an improvement would be to replace that small top cap with another one that has slightly more ..
[up and down room]...

forgot to say that ..[air flow] ..has a strong effect on convection vapor..[it can improve or make it less effective]...so you may want to ..[tape off]... of at least 1/2 of the air vents on your E mesh set up...to reduce un needed outside air..because too much outside air can interfere with vaporization process...

copied from older nexus post below....


DMT


There are at least 3 reported crystal structure modifications of DMT, coming in different crystal grids and thus different melting points. I just know the one that precipitates already at room temperature more yellow and the one that precipitates at lower temperatures fully white. Hence I believe the later one might be more crystaline as it takes longer and slower precipitation, so the melting point might also be higher.

s

Melting point

58 °C

Vaporization temperature

First fumes from 100 °C +
strong fumes from 160 °C +
No further vaporization from 190 °C

I think 175 °C is optimal for vaporization






as soon as all this fine tuning is done ..operation should be simple...




update ...4/5/2022

am now testing the different temperatures ..[using infra red thermometer]... on different wattage settings...

so far...[to my surprise!]].. it appears that a higher wattage may be needed above 35 watts!!... to get to [[160c 320f]] or higher readings for best vaporization..

note...phew! just tryed a hit set at 60 watts...[ alowing it time out only once]....then taking hit still set at 60 watts]/....[using 10 drops tincture].. in wad of wet pad compressed in top cap]..[medium thick] vapor ..came pretty quick....head rush!!...had strong effect... ..vapor got a bit harsh at high end of pull...need to reduce wattage to 50watts...or a bit less?

I think i discovered something that needs to be changed in vapeing method in post above...


As i said..the last time i vaped with this setup taking a hit... i felt a jolt...and had a mild headache for several hours..and even felt the effect to a smaller degree through most of the next day.. but im fine now...

This has never happened to me to this degree..and now i think i know why this happened...

I i looked very closely at the plastic cap you can see loaded with stainless wool
[[in the bottom 3 photos].. above in post above....

I noticed that the bottom of the cap was getting very hot and starting to melt!

So this jolt hit me in the later part of the pull i was taking..

[when things were getting very hot] and now i believe the melting plastic in the [bottom part].. of top top cap released impuritys into the spice vapor!

So this method above by pre heating the unit first ..[for convection vapor]..should still work well,,
Except!... dont use that plastic cap when using the preheating method!..because it gets too hot for the plastic cap ...remedy this. ....by going to hardware store .. and find and.. [fit up] a metal cap in place of the plastic one to put the stainless or chore boy pad into it !

The reason this doesnt melt the top cap using normal E mesh method is the conduction e mesh heats up so fast!.. that the vapor is there very quicky...and you didnt have to pre heat anything...

Preheating is nessasery only if you want convection vapor....

one must be carefull about the purity of what your vaping!

These posts.. are an ongoing tests ... so ideas will change.. from post to post ...and like any experament.. some fail some succede.... ]]]



I think ive discovered the cause of my headache from vaping spice ..........
[using the E mesh [convection]..pre heat method ...

I believe using the plastic top cap ..[during preheating and vaping stage]...started to melt a little on bottom of cap.. [during convection pre heating] causing

the spice to be contaminated by plastic smoke! [not nice!

I have evedence of the bottom of plastic cap softening from the high heat ........

[during convection preheating stage]..

i even test heated the stainless wet pad i used..with a blue flame torch lighter.. and black soot came out of the pad..meaning that soot from the melting plastic got pulled into the wet pad!

But..I believe the convection method should still work ok...but dont use the plastic cap!!..replace it with a metal..stainless...or copper..or aluminum cap...

Vaping the usual E mesh way... doesnt cause melting of the plastic cap..because ..the vapeing happens so fast!. during the conduction stage...the heat doesnt remain long enough to melt the plastic cap...




DONT USE! plastic cap pictured below with.. convection preheat method...it can melt on bottom causing contamination of spice vapor!

USE all metal cap to stop this problem.. during preheat..convection vaping to be safe..

bottom photos shows bottom melted edges of the top cap...not to be used in the preheat method unless replaced by metal caps!
starway7 attached the following image(s):



finally!
I replaced the plastic cap with a copper cap... NO MORE MELTING!...[ you can use copper...steel..or aluminum metal tubing that fits....for most mods...[about 3/8 size metal cap] ...to replace the plastic origional cap...

i put a pipe screen in bottom first... then i folded SS316 mesh to three layers ..then bent the corner tips on the three layer mesh..and flatened them with plyers..

now the spice can ride on the three layers of mesh...allowing only hot air to pass through creating convection vapor...


Then carefully pushed the three layer mesh evenly down to as low as possible in tubing ..allowing room for the pipe stem...

now..[i think folding and using the [ SS 316 mesh into three layers].. will vape cleaner and better and faster than using chore boy or wed pad....


When loading the pipe ..just hit the fire button a few quick times to warm up mesh platform.. and easy load into the top.. and spice will melt into the three layer mesh very easily...

I tryed it once [preheating at 40 watts then hitting the fire button very quickly.. and it appeared to produce very smooth convection vapor! reasonably fast! it may even work on a lower wattage..

Wasnt in the mood to get stoned tonight..so this was just a test.. finally!..this seems to be working much better..!

[Air flow ajustment]
i never mentioned this before.. but..the air flow on E mesh lower cap [with air holes] can be adjusted by taping off [on outside].. some of the air vent holes...[i taped off 1/2 of my air flow...



update 4/14/2022..

im quickly beginning to see that copper tubbing is superior metal for heating up fast!

Because of coppers superior..ability... to conduct heat... that adds to its ability to produce convection vapor faster and more effectivly...

Copper is very safe.. if used properly.... .you dont use a blow torch with it! ..

Copper will not burn..it takes .. close to 2000 degrees F.. to get it near melting point ..

and vaporizing spice and many herbs...is only about 160c to 190c range ...thats a little over 300 hundred degrees F...

I believe metals like copper and aluminum...are best heat conductor choice for convection vaping...

Glass tubbing would be super safe...but not shure if it will hold ...[hot air].. well enough to produce convection vapor../?


in next post..from a recent test... i think ive found a very simple way.. [anyone can use!]..to get convection vapor from an E mesh unit..

Hi starway

I love this alot. My only problem with e-mesh is that its easy to spill some material.
But with your design its not a problem even when you are a little bit too high.
This also could work for cannabis concentrates.
And the copper makes it look kinda steam punky

Thanks for sharing this

Have a gud one

I know ive tryed many different methods over some time to get convection vapor out of a conduction EMESH...

finally it seems to be working quite well in method below!!

Durring this mornings test... ive gotten the most thickest! convection vapor ever!! it was ..EFfECTIVE!.. clean.. light ...and almost tastless..and cool!

Using this simple method.....applying 40 watts...until it timed out..two times...then hit the fire button once more.. and took a slow draw.. and could see a light vapor in the water chamber..
then.. 2 seconds more.. it got very thick quickly..filling up the bubbler chamber .. and i inhaled...

[a little higher wattage may have made this work even faster!]

but it being ..[too early in morning to get stoned]...[and this being only a test]... i did not hold it in...[im working on working a small electric ..[air pump.. to do these tests]

this convection vapor can get quite thick.. but is not as white colored as the faster vaping conduction vapor ..

It seemed very effective.. with no harshness at all!.. It seemed virtually tasteless and clean!

This is the BEST! results ive gotton so far..and i believe this to be true convection vapor!

It appears that using ...3/8 sized ..[smooth straight peice] .. of [copper tubeing ]..[with good airflow spacing]..you can get at most hardware stores.. aided the heating process..better than the slower heating stainless steel tubing... ive read that ..[copper conducts heat the fastest]//..then second is aluminum...and some other metals follow...
copper tubeing is safe... if used right...i did use a small peice of .. [stainless wet pad] to hold the spice in tubeing 1/2 inch above the heating mesh.....

then in photos below you can see how i did it it was simple,..

I used a small wad of stainless [volcano wet pad] ...[holding pad with a long needle] ..[LIGHTLY].. warm pad up with a butane lighter ..then apply the spice to the warm pad..it will melt in easily... then simply push the pad up into the copper tubeing about 1/2 inch above the.. E mesh [heating mesh].. making shure it fits tight enough to stay in place...

Now the product is is a little more than a half inch above the heating element...

At 40 watts..now hold fire button down untill it times out twice...

Then hit the fire button again.. and take a slow long draw... the convection vapor will come and get thicker the longer you pull!

This seems to work well...but [its possible]..if the wattage is turned up a little..it may even shorten the
[already short duration] ive found it to work so far]!



pictures below..

surprisingly simple method !

first two photos..[wasnt holding camera still enough] the dose hit me same time i was taking picture!...

one photo no vapor .. the other,,[with vapor]... it had ...[twice as thick a vapor]... before i took photo...filled up with vapor pretty fast.. the copper tubings ability to conduct heat.. helped it vaporize faster!

[a glass mini bubbler pipe stem would be nice with this method! ]

The convection vapor was lighter but still potent...convection vapor not so heavy and acidic.. like you can get from conduction vapes...

I just changed the design on my E mesh...!

I now have an ...easy top load...convection E mesh...

I tested this design tonight..and it worked beautyfull!

With this simple but effective design ..you can forget about loading that E mesh strip! and spilling your product all over the mod..

I call this ..[the easy load shotgun]... and all you need is a.. 1 3/4 inch long.. peice of copper tubing..3/8 diamiter..you can get at any hardware store..



if using all white product...just tap the power button a few quick times to warm up the pad.. and load the product in from the top ..

if using tincture..just dropper it in through the top and allow time for the alcohol to evaporate
before vapeing ...




If you look close at the photos you will see how i made it...

[[use a..straight [unbent].. smooth unscratched peice of copper tubing]

Im using a small wad of compressed stainless wire [from a volcano wet pad]..

Just enough [wet pad] to compress inside the copper tube ..[as it shows in a photo]..

[make pad as thick or thin as you want]...[you will be able to draw air through it]...compress the pad in tubing untill it makes a ..[snug

tighter fitting tablet shape].. inside the copper tube ..
[compress stainless pad from booth ends of tubing].. [[with two tools that will fit into

tubbing]].. the compression will help the pad .. [remain in place].. any were inside the copper

tube you slide it........[compressing the stainless wire will form a ..circular tablet shape..

and slow any down drip of the product.. then the heat and upward air flow .. when taking a hit.. should vaporize the product very quickly!

[[ the tube being copper helps in the heating process]

[ although an aluminum tube should also work]..


This time i choose less than a half inch above the end of the tube...placing it a certain spacing above the heating mesh below...

You can set the spice pad to any measurement you choose.. above the heating mesh ..that works best..

my mod has a bubbler...but it would be a simple matter for anyone who is using a normal pipe stem to fit it into the top of the copper tubbing....[with an adapter if needed]

I tryed this design tonight using this method below.....

....press fire button set at 45 watts untill it times out ..[two times]

...then press the fire button again and slowly take a pull.....

...... [BEWARE...The RDA top gets HOT! dont touch it!] ...

while taking a draw...in two seconds or less... super thick convection vapor should come up very fast!!

I used this method tonight and it worked great! ..the convection vapor... appeared .. as thick as ....[conduction vapor normally produces]....only better quality!

when it reached temperature.... almost all of the spice seemed to explode into nice convection vapor very quickly!! .. filling up the bubbler bottle nicely!

[it takes only seconds to get high speed convection vapor with E mesh]



.. it can take up to 3 minutes!.. for a desk top vaporizer to produce vapor that is sometimes too thin..the extra time to create vapor ..may cause some of the spice to evaporate into oblivion?



The vapor i tested seemed high quality....

you need to find the wattage you like for the best vapor quality results......

I pre heated my tubing with torch lighter to .. [clean it].. get rid of any oils or other stuff from the factory...

Then i used a peice of chore boy scrubber and polished it inside and out untill the color looked like rose gold!

For saftey.,,.dont leave any filings or copper dust inside the tubbing and it should be safe to use..

when you twist in the tubbing into the RDA cap.. just e carefull ..make shure its in tight enough but a small distance above the heating mesh...

Note.....you can use a much shorter peice of tubing ..[for sp only] ...

i just used a longer length of tubing..[for more chamber room]... incase... i wanted to try some

changa or other dry herbs in it... dry herbs may vaporize in it! ..if wattage ..or temperature..is set correctly?....[i havent tryed dry herbs in it yet ...

[[adjust your air flow .. by reducing or increasing air flow on RDA cap]

[the bottom photo].. shows a measurment of 1/2 inch above heating mesh ..
.. but set it where you want.. just never let the pad touch the heating mesh ..you are using hot air to vaporize your product...

IF..you have trouble with SS316 mesh burning out too often...you can fold the heating mesh into two layers ... it should last longer...

..Be SaFE! [[ALWAYS!.. WEIGH YOUR product !

CAUTION!...[if using a pipe stem only without a bubbler]... and vaping seeds..or any herbal material..for saftey ...use a pipe screen.. [or second wad of chore boy]...somewhere between copper tubbing and mouth peice ..[in pipe stem]....[as a saftey filter]... to prevent inhalation of seeds or any unwanted air born particles other than vapor ..!


pictures comming....:



watch full screen! ...this looks great on a big screen tv!!
https://youtu.be/fFyC68CIEio

Just tryed another.. .. SP ..vape test with convection E mesh ...[at 45 watts... [ 85 percent].. of the product vaped within 2 seconds of taking a hit!.. and it produced great convection vapor and results!

Will be testing herbal products soon in convection chamber..

If anyone trying this method.. please post your results ...






SAFTEY CAUTION!...[if using this method]...with a pipe stem only ..[without a bubbler]..
[ water trap]]... and vaping seeds..or any herbal material..for saftey ...use a pipe screen in mouth peice.. [or second wad of chore boy]...somewhere between copper tubbing and mouth peice ..[in pipe stem]....[as a saftey filter]... to prevent inhalation of seeds or any unwanted air born particles other than vapor ..!

This is great work, thanks for sharing!
Convection makes more sense than conduction.
Looking forward to seeing your definitive design.

Thanks..
its still in its early stage... but it seems to work well..

The method above.. [just a simple model]..[anyone! with a little skill]..can make at very low cost!

You can just twist a 3/8 peice of smooth copper or alumimum tubbing into it.. and its tight enough... to work with a pipe stem..and the rubber o ring keeps it sealed and tight enough to work..

I hope to improve on it... like maybe cutting a few threads on inside of the cap... and threads outside of the tubbing so one can just screw it into place by hand ...it would stay in place much better..

I used it now 3 times and every time it worked .. very well!...decent vapor never touched the heating mesh...

if not using a bubbler [water trap].. ALWAYS!... use a second screen or wad of chore boy ..in pipe stem... [[or on top of load]...as a saftey filter to prevent inhalation of ... airborn particles ..seeds..leaves..or stems] from herbal products..

No problem with SP alone it will just come up as vapor!


4/26/2022

recent test using ...[an 11 inch long peice clear tubbing].
after [two 45 watt.pre heats] ...i took a slow hit.. and in less than 2 seconds.. a huge thick cloud of convection vapor appeared coming up in the clear tubbing spinning its way up towards my mouth..
But since this was just only a test..i did not compleately inhale....

YES the vapor does work well..just use a pipe stem..that will alow the best air flow and it seems to work great.. nice..

if not using a bubbler..be ware of the vapor temperature! .. a longer stem.. might allow it to cool better...[if your not feeling the effects of product.......
.the air temperature may be too high or too low!] ..and will have to ...reduce ..or increase..wattage or temp control setting..



4/28/2022] [applying liquid tincture] to pad..

[when applying ..[liquid sp tincture]... with dropper to the pad..[only put 2 to 3 drops at a time to center of pad..
And alow...[ 5 to 10 minutes] in between... before adding more drops..alowing the alcohol to evaporate enough to make the [sp]... cling to the pad fibers as a sticky resin...
preventing over loading the pad and causing the liquid tincture to run down the insides of the tubbing..
you need to alow the alcohol to evaporate anyway before vaping!.....
and if you be patient and wait a long enough ..the sticky resin will crystalize to higher purity on the metal fibers of the pad.. making the vapor smoother and more effective ..



[applying crystal [sp] or wax... to pad..

this is not so time consuming.. as you just hit the fire button just long enough to warm the pad enough that the wax or crystal will melt into the pad...very easy...!






4/27/2022

Next .....Finding the right safe and effective temperature ..for convection E mesh..
also...making a..[ desk top stand].. for your mod...

4/28/2022...product test!...Thumbs up.. best results yet!

OMG! Now i know the true difference..from the usual ...conduction E mesh method..verses convection! ...

only 10 drops..tincture [maybe equaling 17 to 20 mgs total]..of herbal beauty.. in pad..

did drink a ..[very small amount of rue tea first]..[4 sips]...Then after two 45 watt pre heats..untill it timed out ....then took the hit... and in less than two seconds!~

.beautyfull vapor cloud came...

only vaping part of the total dose of this... [freeze percipitated]....Herbal.. MH.. material.....It was so light..tastless.. and smooth..like riseing into a cloud! [talk about purity!

quite different from the usual conduction right off the very hot mesh.....where some material vapes.. and some material burns...

I find...[Most mods].. [in temp control]..are are inacurate when used in conduction mode....within the first second... some material vapes..but.. [because of its super fast heat up] ..the mesh starts glowing red very quickly!.. and starts ..[over heating].. the remainder of the material..before its compleatly vaped...

This test produced ..high speed convection vapor! totally tastless.. ..just like breathing fresh air! as i only took a small hit .....[Did not vape it all at once]....[im shure there is more left in pad..

dont miss judge its potency! ..even a small ..under dose..of convection vapor..can be surprisingly strong! because nothing is distroyed or wasted...it all vapes correctly..

[finding correct temperature for convection E mesh ] ...
So far.. i started ..[at the normal temp 20 watts that i used for conduction E..mesh]

[[Ive found i start to get effective vapor at 35 watts...

But ...[45 watts] preheated two times untill time out...then vaping..seems to pull out the thicker denser vapor..

If you go to hot... you may get a ..[high temperature warning].. that temporaraly shuts off the mod...

i think its always best to go as low a temperature as possible to prevent overheating the mod and get better vapor...

[[a lithium battery on fire is no fun!]]



This test was.. nice 30 minute hop over the flower garden!



True convection rules!

....... [easy top load].. HIGH SPEED CONVECTION E MESH.....

This is how i make the copper tubbing ..[fit as tight fitting as possible] to the RDA cap without damaging the cap.. without using other methods involving more work like ...using screws ..drilling.ECT...more work than most want to do...

[make shure the .3/8 size .peice of copper tubbing is ..[straight / smooth].. and un bent]

First photos show how to clean and smooth .. inside and out..by using a small peice of chore boy stainless scrubber and needle nose plyers..


You should also .. [heat and clean the copper tubbing]. to burn off any factory related materials like oils or varnishes...[use a butane torch lighter for this]

I plan to make the tubbing fit tighter by simply .[[expanding inside end of tubbing] ..


[tip]..of the tubbing]] [less than 1/4 inch in..]

[on the inside of tubbing].. [with round smooth blunt punch]..
[expand tubbing just a .. TINY!.. amount]!!

so one end the tubbing can be started in by twisting by hand..

[ be carefull.. .... tap it GENTLY with round smooth punch!!.. a few times and... expand the tubbing just a/ ...TINY AMOUNT!!! thats all you will need to make the tubbing fit tight..


[[then gently tapping the expanded end of tubbing in place]]..[DONT expand very much!!.. just a

tiny amount of even expansion will do!..give a couple gentle taps with the punch will do// with a

blunt round punch..

So when gently evenly tapping in the tubing.. once it hits the expanded end of the tubbing it should compress to a very tight fit..

Then pick up the peice and look at it.. and make shure the tubbing is as verticly straight as

possible with the end cap..


....[to remove tubbing from cap.. put on block and tap downward from the top.. ]


if the copper tubbing is cleaned and smooth on outside .. it should compress the rubber O ring without tearing it..

Note..[different top RDA caps might have a tiny difference in how the tubbing fits]!..
..So some may not need this method used at all!... and will tap into cap tight enough!...

But [other RDA caps may not fit so tightly]

So.. the ...[3/8 size tubbing].. may fit a tiny bit looser in some caps..

and other caps... may require the copper tubbing to be [slightly! expanded.. [on inside end of tubbing].. to fit tight like one solid peice!

Not all photos are in yet!... but here are some of the beginning photos below..

I will add more photos soon...


https://youtu.be/P_gapG2vK78

[[making a ..[screen stop]... for copper tubbing]]..

For [SP]..[[and [posible] use with dry herbs...]]

[...this basket should work with or without.. the chore boy pad...

involves compressing a normal large size pipe screen over top of tubbing into copper tubbing..making a .[near perfect] screen basket..that can be slid into any spot inside the tubbing...

This first screen alone could?.. work with dry herbs including pot..

But if using ..SP..or waxes... you will need 2 or 3 layers of [fine..SS 316L mesh screen] inlayed into the [bottom].. of screen basket to slow down and prevent down drip of product when heated....

this screen basket with ..two or three layers].. of [SS 316 mesh] ..should work well with [SP] alone...

The main screen basket..is formed by inserting a shaft into tubbing and compressing pipe screen.. ....
[ i used a battery in photo]...[because thats all i had that fit close enough].... .slowly taping it into copper shaft will form a near perfect screen basket..

Screen basket.. high corners.. should be trimmed even on walls ..as shown in picture..

i used a dremel tool to smooth out the trimmed edges of the screen basket..

COMPLEATLY!.. blow away or rinse any... loose .small peices of screen wire that has been trimmed
from basket!...

This should work fine with [SP] and ..[possibly].. with dry herbs..

slowly evenly.. with a close fitting blunt pen or shaft...push screen basket into tubbing where ever it works best..[ probibly less than 1/4 inch from bottom of tubbing ..my choice]...it should stay in place..
this multi screen ... might?.. work a little better than the mesh pad?




[[update]] product test!.....5/4/2022...
Right after assembling the screen basket...[in pictures below]...with three layers of... fine SS 316L mesh...a VERY SMALL! amount of product..[maybe 6mgs?]....it seemed to vape in almost half the.. [already short time]..
of ...[two 45 watt time outs]....then take the hit method...


This time.. i executed only ....[one 45 watt time out]....the took a hit after 5 seconds of holding fire button down.. and got vapor faster! .. it seems the finer ..[SS 316L mesh] may have slowed down the heat ..[up draft].. a little more... causing a little faster vaporization?


[food for thought!]
BUT!... if one were to crush .[a thicker amount].. of the Stainless wire pad.. [origionally used].. [ reducing the air flow through the pad a little]..[by making it denser] ... it also would have slowed down the heat up draft... [in effect]... holding in the hot air longer around the [SP] having a faster vaporization effect!!



[last 4 pictures shows how easy it is to make a saftey top screen plug..

[preventing inhalation of unwanted airborn particles] .. like... seeds ...stems ....plant mater]].. ....not really needed for [SP] vapor alone...

I just used a small thin softer pipe screen.. [ centered.. on top of tubbing]... and carefully pressed it into the tubbing .. shaping the [screen plug] near perfect.. [using a small battery]]



[if using top screen plug] .. push screen.. all the way down evenly.. until on top of ..[herbal material]..this keeps the material in one place as hot air flows through it..

...[using with herbs is still experamental]...but with [SP] proven to work fine.. top screen plug not needed for [SP]vapor alone




either way this is working well so far !!

please.. opinions welcome!

NEW DISCOVERY! 5/6/2022...

[ NOT..using Stainless wire pad this method ]

instead... Im using one corse normal pipe screen on bottom...

and 2 or 3 layers of .[much finer]...[ SS 16L..screen inlayed on top of the corser bottom screen to ...[slow or prevent!.. any product drip down when heated..]

Doing another product test... I loaded the Emesh convection vape with a small amount of ..[ material] ...it was loaded in the bottom screen in copper tubbing sitting less than 1/4 inch above the heating mesh as usual...[photos in above post above show screen positioning]..

I added about 45 rue seeds on top of the [ material]..and the seeds stuck the melted [SP].. and then i pushed the top screen cap down onto the seeds and [ material] ..so that the seeds wouldent fly upward and into my bubbler when taking a hit....using the top cap to hold down the seeds this way ..
it also kept the seed in place to receive the hot air flow..

I did everything the same as usual... [[ 2..45 watt]] time outs.. ..then took a hit..

Within 2 seconds or less!... it took me conmpleatly by surprise!..

As i was taking a draw [within 2 seconds or less]... a huge vapor cloud exploded.. It was the THICKEST!..convection vapor ive ever experianced

It may have been mainly the [SP]... but i think it vaped the [seeds] a fair amount also.... at almost the same time!!

The effect was quickly engulfing ..i mean quick! at first i thought i over did it..but i only held in the vapor about 4 seconds...since it was just a test...

The vapor came up instantly into a huge cloud...I couldent inhale it all!

The White cloud.. was clean tasting .. and very very thick!

IT was every bit as thick and white as the usual ..[conduction E MESH method! produces]

Pure convection vapor for shure!

the fastest ive seen that much [ material] vaporize into convection vapor!



Now what did i do different this time??


I SWITCHED from the ...[0.9 ohm].. SS 316 L mesh].. used as a heater

To.. a WOTOFO..[next mesh chill] .. [.15 ohm mesh screen..] used as a heater!

and that make a performance difference!

After installing the 15 ohm screen to the RDA..i hit the fire button i imeadiatly noticed.. it glowed a lot brighter!... and put out much more heat!

I think the increased heat from the [0.15 0hm screen was performing much better..
than the 316L screen..

this 15 ohm heater scree n seems to give better heating..

The corrser.. [ pipe screen] .. i used on bottom of tubing.. .. was used only used to hold the ...[ finer SS316L screen i lined it with]..... keeping the [ material] from running through..




these screens in photo below ..come as extra screens ...in many rebuildable RDA kits many people have these extra screens!

I think its possible..these ..[0.15ohm] ..or [0.16 ohm] screens.. can supercharge the vaporizers performance!

[so far].. ive tryed the corse .15 ohm screen...the .16..and the .13 ohm could also be tryed..

Just ..compair the [ 0.9 ohm.. SS316L mesh]] to the o.15 OHM screen..and you should see more compleate and faster.. [convection]..vaping performance !

i guess the meshes are named differently..because they perform differently!
[i used the mesh chill..as a heater...


pictured below... are three screens..origionaly intended to be used with cotton and E juice to make huge vapor clouds...

It seems the screens also produce. [convection vapor ]..using plain [ sp] quite well also...just need to choose the right screen and ..[temp]..or [wattage setting]...



might want to try this improvement for convection vapor..!


https://youtu.be/UUYk3R-5c0E

Great stuff, keep up the good work!

Hi starway. Hope you are having a great day.
Yesterday i bought some copper tubing and kinda followed your design.
The only difference is no bubbler. I had an old mouth piece of the Linx Gaia vape
and put it on top of the tube with an adapter.
I only tried it with deems, but i will try with rue also.
Very cool and easy to handle.

I am getting annoyed by spice spilling for years now.
But instead of finding a solution for it i just accepted it.
So thanks for making me realise that, too.

Have a gud one dyoode

Hi Potnoble..

I assume it worked ok with..[Sp]/?

Read the instructions..if you try the rue seed..make a top screen out normal thin soft pipe screen by form pressing it into the copper tube...

I centered the screen on top of copper tubing.. then [using an AAA battery] I evenly pressed the screen into the tube forming a nice fitting screen top!

Then ..[using a blunt shaft.. [pencil erasser .. or marker pen]?.. that fits the tubbing inner diamiter]... slide the top screen [..EVENLY].. down ward into the tubbing untill it stops at the bottom screen holding the material...

If using some rue seed... this top screen will do ..two things...

1..It will keep the seed intact so the hot air will flow through it...and vaporize it..

2..When taking a hit..it will prevent the seed from getting pulled up through the stem and into your mouth..or throat or lungs!!

this is a very important screen!!.. when trying to vape herbal material like seed...leafe...stems...loose material.. and not using a bubbler...water trap

If your vaping just plain [SP].. the top screen could be used..[to slow down the heat flow some].. but... top screen isnt nessasery because its pure vapor.....

just use a long enough stem and be aware of how hot the vapor is.. ...


You could try use your ..[plenty metal coil stem]..as a vapor cooler...

you need to play around with the air flow some on bottom vents...and find the right wattage or temp setting...

5/23/2022... New product test...

I just tryed vaping a different way..by setting the wattage up .. [5 watts more].. to 50 watts. instead of 45..watts..

I found at 50 watts ... you only need one time out!.. .[instead of two]...then take a hit! and the vapor comes fast and easy...

So it appears that raising the...temp setting ..or wattage.. reduces the time it takes to get the vapor flowing...

My heating element is rated at ...60 to 80 watts...and so far ive went up to 50 watts..

there is more room to test different settings....

Its posible...That.[with testing]... raising the temperature gradually].. finding the sweet spot]..
the vapor...[ may flow imeadiatly]! the first time you hit the button...

I would keep the product load as close as possible above the heating mesh...but NOT ! touching the mesh..at least 1/4 inch above the mesh..[or little closer]...for best results ....


note..
5/24/2022... IT APPEARS THAT...[ ive found that once the wattage is set as high as.. [50 watts OR ABOVE]]....
.....even TINY traces of spilled product from months back... when using the origionaL CONDUCTION METHOD... COMPLEATLY VAPORIZES! ..THIS POINTS TOWARD.....
[ hIGHER HEAT MORE efective RESULTS.. AND FASTER RESULTS...BUT DONT GO TOO HIGH ON THE HEAT!
..HOT AIR MAY? STILL BURN MATERIAL...


5/24/2022
just did product test ..[using small amount of product].. this morning!

Success!! ..using..55 watts..[ SINGLE PRESS OF FIRE BUTTON!].. seemed to pull decent [sp]... convection vapor.. fairly fast .. with my E mesh mod!! ..NO PRE HEATS USED!!


remember!.. the tiny air vent holes ..[on the RDA cap]... control .. the.. air/heat.. mixture...meaning...the fresh air flow from outside also has to be [reduced or increased] by tapeing off air holes... to get best results..

https://youtu.be/9WF4FF8QrQE

Lately I've emulated your design, starway, by stuffing a little basket made of pipe screen into the outlet tube of a wotofo profile unity mesh RTDA; nine rue seeds fit comfortably in there and then a retaining screen fits over that. The male joint of a B14/23 glassware distillation head fits snugly into the top of the atomizer and this connects through a receiver bend into a small two-necked flask. This flask provides an expansion space for cooling and stray particulates get caught there. With a bit of tinkering it could be modified to be a bubbler too. An air condenser connected onto the other neck of the round-bottomed flask acts as a long mouthpiece and the pieces are all fixed in place with Keck clips plus a shoelace to secure things and prevent damage through unwanted rotation. The base of the glassware part is at the same level as the base of the mod unit so it's surprisingly stable thanks as well to the weight of the box (an Aegis Legend, 200W).

The seeds sit very close to the mesh so my first test at 40 watts resulted in combustion of one or two. Since dialling back to 23 watts it puts out an only slightly scorched vapour which is quite acceptable. A rolled up pipe screen soaked in choice alkaloidal tincture can also be fitted into the space. Preliminary tests with a couple of drops produced a smooth cloud of vapour.


Thanks for the inspiration in getting this set up sorted out. It's proven to be well-suited as a complement to yoga practice.

downwardsfromzero...If you vape.. rue seed .. the vapor may be kinda light and not very visible to the naked eye..

But you can tell its vaping easily because you should be able to taste the vapor!.. more than.. visibly seeing it...

If the vapor is very vissable ..it MAY? be getting too much heat?

be carefull how close the seed basket screen is to the heating mesh when put together..

Must maintain atleast a little space above the hot mesh to get vapor..