I've only done a couple of re-x's previously and when I did the naphtha stayed clear and an orange blob sank to the bottom. This time the naphtha turned yellow and there was no separation. I think I just dissolved my DMT into naphtha to pull it out in the same state but with some loss from scraping etc.

Any thoughts?

There's nothing wrong with Yellow/Golden Spice.

There is when it's running down the side of your machine and not vaporizing. Nothing like pure clean white spice that leaves nothing behind in the device

If it wasn't for this I wouldn't give two monkeys

With Cyb on this one.
I have three "grades" of spice, pure white, cream and everything else. White spice i find just disappears if you look at it wrong. I obviously need a GVG for this
The golden spice is my blob left after re-exing and is the spice that gives me the most amazing journeys.

If I had a choice I would pick golden every time.

If you want white from yellow you could put a small piece of charcoal in your shot glass and leave it for 10 minutes or so. It can adsorb some spice as well as the colour though, but it does work.
I used a couple of aquarium charcoal pellets.

I have used charcoal to clean up my used yellow naphtha in the past.

The following link is to some chemistry videos from MIT, one of them covers re-exing where charcoal is used. Here

I really don't care about colour as long as it's not flashing neon or something haha.

I just want it to stop turning into an oily substance and running off onto the neck of the machine where it avoids contact with the flame.

White just instantly turns to vapour and you don't get many ignitions with white, but it does skip out the oily part and doesn't take any digging around with the lighter to find, so white is preferable on this point. But experience wise I found the best to be some yellows, maybe even one of the oranger ones I got. To be honest, my favourite experiences were most likely with the sand coloured stuff. Lovely, smooth, immersive and cartoonish.

I find the best way to avoid this if you do have a "runner" is to only part way melt the DMT onto the gauze after stacking it like a pyramid in the centre. Then melt from the outside in, it kinda crystalizes like melted sugar. Be super careful loading the machine though, if you bend the gauze it will snap the DMT off it's structure and it will crumble.

If you get it right though and manage to load this DMT fudge pyramid in a central position it's like no effort.

Was fortunate enough to witness another DMT virgin have a breakthrough last night. There's another life changed.

I don't have a GVG I just have the standard VG. I tried DMT in it once and it vanished. Loaded a 50 and got one whispy toke. Dunno what happened to it? Anyway, my machine is very effective and have been the loaded gun of MANY a breakthrough.

So does anybody know why this happens? When you don't get an orange blob settle but the whole solution turns yellow instead?

That orange blob youre talking about.. Do you drop chunks of dmt goo into heated NPS or do you put heated NPS into a container that has the dmt in it?

When youre re-xing the yellow pool at the bottom will not be a seperate layer, it will be in the same layer as the NPS, it will just mostly stay at the bottom. If there was any basic liquid or any water in your crystal matrix then it will form a seperate layer at the very bottom, most likely black/brown/red. This is my experience from mhrb. ACRB will most likely be a different color. Your yellowing of NPS is completely normal. Thats how it should be. It just means that the naptha is picking up a little bit of the oils.

ime, once the solvent has heated up, both DMT and impurities are far more soluble.
I mix everything in and there's a bit of goop at the bottom, sometimes, next to none and just a colouration to the solvent.
I then let it cool until it clouds up and starts to precipitating DMT.
I then transfer this to a glass jar and then the freezer.
I find once the DMT + impurities dissolve, the impurities tend to drop out of the solution, before the DMT.

DMT will always migrate to a cooler surface when heated, regardless of color. You could do 20 re-x's and an activated carbon color-removal, and you'd still have some DMT left stuck to the glass after vaporizing.

stationdragon, are you using the same naphtha as before?