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Storage: compl. dry or minimal air exchange? Desiccant Canisters (Silica-Gel+Activated Charcoal) Options
 
Bud Shizzler
#1 Posted : 11/5/2012 2:57:52 PM

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Hello Nexus,

i want to store my crystals in a tiny glass jar with an air-tight-cap. My question is this: With the cap screwed on there would still be minimal air exchange overtime. theoretically this could turn the spice into oxide. A Desiccant Container would absorb all oxygen (in theory). From another household-product i have these small desiccant containers, that don't leak anything out because they are food-safe and they consist of Silica-Gel and Activated Charcoal. But may these Containers or packs or whatever form you obtain them have a downside? are they somehow degrading the spice? i'm especially curious about the activated charcoal in my containers, could that affect my spice?

What i will do now is put a small amount of spice in a seperate container with one desiccant container and see what it will do over time. but since that takes time i would be very thankful for some experiences

thanks in advance
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Dr_Sister
#2 Posted : 11/10/2012 11:20:19 PM

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A dessicant will not remove the oxygen from your container, it will absorb moisture from the air in your container. If you want to store your spice in an oxygen free atmosphere then get a cannister of inert gas , argon (heavier than air) and fill your spice container with that. They are available in some wine making supply places to preserve wine that has been opened. This should prevent oxidation if properly sealed.
 
SWIMfriend
#3 Posted : 11/11/2012 1:16:01 AM

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Another simple "home style" method of heavier than air gas that will not oxidize, is to put a small piece of dry ice (CO2)into your bottle--and then seal it just after the piece has completely sublimed.

Also, there are relatively inexpensive "wine protectors" available--they're compressed N2 with an extended nozzle-pipe. You put the nozzle down into your bottle, press, and "blow out" all the air from the bottle, and leave only N2 remaining.
 
endlessness
#4 Posted : 11/11/2012 1:27:47 AM

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Cant you also generate CO2 by mixing sodium bicarb and vinegar in a bottle (opened), then 'pouring' the invisible heavier-than-air CO2 into the container with the products you want to store, and it will displace the normal oxygen-filled air out, and then you can close it for storage?
 
SWIMfriend
#5 Posted : 11/11/2012 1:38:47 AM

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endlessness wrote:
Cant you also generate CO2 by mixing sodium bicarb and vinegar in a bottle (opened), then 'pouring' the invisible heavier-than-air CO2 into the container with the products you want to store, and it will displace the normal oxygen-filled air out, and then you can close it for storage?


Actually, I think that reaction ALSO generates H2O--so the gas you're pouring might be CO2 and H2O; probably not what you want.

But I'm not sure.

Dry ice, OTOH, is, well...dry. Smile

I like the wine preserver best. Ten bucks for a supply that would probably work for YEARS for small quantities of DMT.
 
Bud Shizzler
#6 Posted : 11/11/2012 11:35:20 AM

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thanks for the info, will get one of those wine preserver cans/bottles. after all my 2nd name is Justin Case.

My key question was this: if one would store say 0,5g of crystals in an 50ml glass jar, does it also become yellow over time (when NOT opened)? Or does it stay relatively transparent? I'm just curious about this. Also i wonder how reasonable this oxygen-paranoia store-wise is. Good to know these desiccant canisters aren't really usefull.
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Dr_Sister
#7 Posted : 11/18/2012 2:09:06 AM

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Have seen spice stored in a small baggy turn yellow to orange to brown over the space of a year or so. Storing in the freezer also slows this.
 
The Day Tripper
#8 Posted : 11/18/2012 9:56:46 AM

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What i do with all my tryptamines, lsd, dmt, RC tryptamines, and especially the 4 substituted RC ones that degrade quickly like 4-ho-mipt, 4-ho-met, 4-aco-dmt, is as follows-

Get completely airtight vials to store your psychadelics in, i use plastic ones with an o-ring on the top, but glass ones like that work just as well. Paper/non rubber caps on most cheap amber vials will do, but they are not airtight and are not viable for long term storage.

Take those vials, put whatever your putting in them in, and get a ziplock bag, and a container to put the bag in. Make sure your vials will sit upright when you put them in this ziplock lined container, basically its just there to hold them upright.

Put the caps on, but don't screw them down. If you can manage, don't cap them at all, but know your going to have to cap them later through a sealed ziplock, and loosely capped is the easiest way, but limits the airflow into the vials which is what you want.

Add a few silica moisture dessicants to the bag, a few o2 dessicants (think food preservation, like the ones in jerky bags, just don't use those, get new ones), and attach a plastic tube to a small hole in the bag, and seal the junction between the bag/tube with tape.

Close the ziplock, suck all the air out of the bag, and fill it with wine preserver spray, the tube you used should be the one that came with the canister, as it fits the nozzle. Don't fill it all the way or it will be impossible to cap the vials while the bag is still sealed. Seal the end of the tube after filling, tape works, a rubber plug, as long as its airtight.

Let it sit overnight, so the dessicants (o2, h20) pull the minimal amount of water and oxygen out of the atmosphere inside the bag, there won't be much if its already filled with inert preserver gas. This should leave you with vials with minimal o2 and h20 in the volume of gas in the vial not occupied by the substance in question.

Cap tightly the vials while the bag is still sealed, why you need to not fill the bag all the way or it will be impossible. Once all the vials are sealed, open the bag and store them somewhere cool, dark, and preferably in another airtight storage container like an otterbox. You can even throw a few o2/h20 dessicants in that otterbox for redundancy.

Its a bit overkill for most people, but if you have a good collection of sensitive tryptamines that will take years to use up, its worth it. Also seperate certain amounts of the same substance into seperate vials, so you only expose a small portion of the total at a time as you need to get into them to get a dose of the substance. Basically so you don't have to purge/expose the entire quantity each time you get into the vials.

I have a few otterboxes in natural storage (buried deep in the woods ~ 2 ft deep) like this, that i don't plan on needing to get into for years to come. This also affords you a fair bit of protection from being charged with posession of the substances, if you have a good amount its really good, since you would be charged with distribution in most cases where you have a good # of doses worth of a substance. Not on your property or in your posession, and the only way you could get busted is if someone tailed you to wherever you stashed the drybox.

A bit of work and effort involved with the process, but when you have a good amount of acetylpsilocin, and other sensitive tryptamines that will take you years to work through, its worth it to prevent degredation. If your not worried about being in posession of said dryboxes, throwing them in a freezer would be ideal. A few feet deep in the ground will be ~50-60F stable long term depending on where you live. The ground stays relatively the same temperature as long as its buried deep enough.
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CLT
#9 Posted : 11/18/2012 10:46:14 AM

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I'm storing my sensitive compounds in amber vials, which in turn are stored into an airtight box. I keep that box moisture free by adding some anhydrous magnesium sulfate (oven dried epsom salts). It's probably overkill, but I was wondering if - instead of working with an inert gas - one could add some zinc to the container to remove the oxygen? Wouldn't the zinc oxidize preferentially to the compounds and remove the oxygen from the air, or is that not how it works? I just happen to have some zinc strips lying around.
 
 
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