my friend is currently doing his 2nd extraction from a 400g mhrb. He was not able to reduce his acidified solution enough to fit a 4 liter mason jar. now he has a jar full of black liquid and he is wondering how much this will affect his yield.

Any tips? has this happened to any one else before?

..unfortunately unless your friend is very patient, once basified, any heat above 50˚C will likely affect or even partially vaporise the DMT (it's now freebase) ..and even if very patient (i.e. no heat), leaving DMT in basic solution for this long will possibly create the oxide..

..messy, but better to re-acidify..

Or do it in two runs, divide in two containers.. I wouldnt reduce a basified solution. It might be a little heat like 50c is ok, it seems DMT boiling point is quite higher than that according to some nexian's experiments, but heating freebase alkaloids is in general not a good idea (possible more oxidation and therefore low yields if you use naphtha), or maybe the other trace alkaloids can vap or degrade into something unwanted, who knows..

I think better that you go for the safe and bigger work of doing it in two runs, or as nen said, re-acidify. Though to re-acidify lye, you would probably need tons of acid, way too much vinegar, so it would be better if you had HCl (all safety precautions when dealing with strong acids such as HCl apply, also careful with nasty HCl fumes..). I think I would just do it in two times with the amount you have now.

re acidifying was what he was thinking but one does not have a ph meter. just do more pulls? done with the 1st pull. got lots of honey.

if you dont have ph meter, better go 'overboard' with the acid to make sure its basified enough..

But indeed seems much easier to just extract in two runs/containers instead, and yeah, do more pulls.. What solvent are you using, and are you freezing or evapping? Recrystallize the honey if you want crystals, or at least keep scrapping/rescrapping it to help trapped solvent be removed and for it to harden up/crystallize.

edit - actually nevermind didn't think that through all the way you probably would be reducing with a metal pan.

its been basified a week already. does this keep longer? do i need to do it right away?

It will keep for a long time.

It will keep.

I tried this once and the soup bubbled over like you wouldn't believe!

Even after I took it off the heat, it kept going for 10 minutes.

Do not recommend!

I don't recommend. You would be steam distilling DMT.

UPDATE:

tonight i just started to re acidify half of my soup stock. i used HCL acid and boiled on a "stainless pan" from a thrift store.

At first I thought it was gonna be just like the first time i was doing it with acetic acid.
then when i went past 50% reduction i noticed sandy sticky kind of blobs on the boiling solution. At first I thought there was some powdered bark in there because thats what it initially looked like to me.
color is dark, texture like powdered bark. I pressed it between my fingers and rubbed it, it felt like fine charcoal.

I have 2 guesses why this happened (litmus paper indicated 2-4 ph level):
1.The very small pot handle welding (size of a small pencil eraser at the end of a pencil) which i suspect was aluminum; reacted to the acid on the solution and made this black charcoal like semi sticky residue.
OR
2. due to the acidity of the solution, tannins and other impurities fell out of the solution.

I tested the black charcoal like semi sticky residue by putting it on another container with some water in the microwave.
I did it 3 times and i put fresh slightly acidic water every time i put it on the microwave.
Each time the goo melted a bit; but not enough to completely melt.
About 20% of the solid mass melts into the acid water every time i did this. I did this 3 times.

I would assume that this goo has already saturated the water because when i put allot of water on the container, it completely melted back into the liquid.

Any educated guesses about what black charcoal like semi sticky residue is?