Ok so the couple extrations ive done, ive always let the lye/mhrb sit for 12-24 hours before pulling. So far ive got yields that i am very very satisfied with. My last extraction from 1kilo mhrb yielded over 14g spice. But its always turned out yellow, never really yellow more of a off yellow.

However i read a lot of people on here only wait a few hours before they start pulling and there spice is as white as can be? So im thinking the longer you wait the more yellow/more impurities your gonna pull right?

I notice that the sooner i mix my solvent in, the clearer it is after its settled? but some teks state that if your solvent isnt yellow dont even bother trying to evap/freeze cause theres prolly nothing in it?

Although it has been a fair while since I have worked with STB and I don’t have yield info, I have never even waited as long as a couple of hours before pulling and never had any issues with yields.

Regarding the colour of the solvent, it does not need to be yellow to contain spice. The best way to tell if it has enough spice in it to freeze precipate is to gently blow on it and see if it clouds (if it is very saturated it’s generally cloudy just from transferring it to the collection container).

I have been working on my first extraction and the first two pulls came out with super white fluffy crystals. The next day I ended up letting the solvent sit over night and when I seperated it, it was piss yellow. The crystals that formed in the freezer also turned out yellowish brown. It seemed to have a different quality to it. Almost as if I couldn't remember what happened as clearly. Not to mention, when I opened my eyes, my lower have kind of looked like a carrot...

I've been doing a pull once a day, but the first to I did right away. I used fresh solvent this time, but it still came out with a yellow tint. We will see what the crystals look like in the morning.

Well its kinda complicated because when you're extracting spice, you're pulling other stuff together. The rate at which each component (like, say, DMT, NMT, DMT n-oxide, plant oils, etc) is dissolved depends on factors such as heat, time, surface area/mixing thoroughness, etc. Also depending on how much of other components are present, things can be more or less easily dissolved in a solvent.

I say this because there must be some kind of optimum temperature/time of mixing to get most alkaloids with least other impurities, but so far nobody made so extensive tests and analysed afterwards to tell for sure.

What we do know from experience is that a solvent does not need to be yellow to be full of DMT. DMT is not yellow, neither is NMT, so yellow is more likely plant oils. It could be that both come together, because the longer you leave, the more DMT/NMT also are dissolved, so some people have equated yellow with alkaloids, but it might be that it proportionately increases more the amount of oils to alkaloids if you wait for too long.

Also notice it has been documented that while dmt n-oxide is not soluble in naphtha, it IS soluble in naphtha that has oils in it. So in the case there might be some n-oxide in your spice, if you want it, having plant oils and leaving for longer might be good.. But then again, there is no direct evidence yet, AFAIK that n-oxide is present in mimosa or created in significant amounts during extraction conditions, so maybe DMT/NMT is all you want.

And by the way, no worries if your spice is yellow, just recrystallize it if you want.

Oh and, here's one relevant thread: https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=11715

I thought Id just post this here since I felt like commenting about a related realization I had...
the difference between good mimosa bark and bad bark is like night and day with extractions.
I did about 6 or 7 stb extractions on powdered bark of varying colors (pastel pink->brown) with varying results.
of the six extractions, I had maybe one batch of powder that actually yielded some white crystals. The rest tended to give me greener (chlorophyl) crystals of weak-potency. I found this interesting because I follow the same measurements and careful procedures (not that its a very difficult process but...) with each extraction and yet I was getting different results.
Then I finally decided to spend a bit of extra cash purchasing higher quality mimosa *full bark pieces/not powdered* (from kt if anyone's interested) is wwas called teposzchite although i dont think that says anything about the difference, since as far as im aware of... there isn't any differences in mimosa hostilis shrubbery location lol.
anyways, my concluded point is... I used to agree that powdered vs. actuall pieces of bark as well as sources werent much of an issue with mimosa.
However, I would highly recommend the extra money on some good quality bark (if you know where to find it)
The yields seem to be much higher and purer if good bark is used.
I even noticed that the amount of time for the crystals to migrate into the solvent were greatly reduced (maybe four hours). Which obviously says a lot about the quantity of alkaloids in the bark.
pce