I have a follow up question, since the ammonia cleansing process is widely unpopular, what's the Most popular way? I've seen allot of acetone fans. . and just to be clear the cleansing process is required right? might seem like a dumb question but that step wasn't in the stb tek (can't remember which off the top of my head) that I'm following :/

What do you guys use to store your end product in??

Hey everyone, not sure if this deserves its own post or not, but here goes.

After having read through many of the teks, q21q21's first tek appeals to me the most. I have a couple clarifying questions:

- Do certain teks result in significantly lower / higher yields?

- Are there any specific downsides to q21q21's tek (besides not being able to use freezer precipitation to collect the end result)

- Would you recommend using Xylene or D-Limomeme for this tek?

- Which steps in this tek need to be done one after the other immediately? Which steps could I take a break after to make sure I haven't messed up?

- Any helpful modifications I should know about?

- Most people seem to recommend vovin's / noman's tek for beginners, why is this?

Thanks for any help guys, I've found sources for all necessary materials but want to make sure I know exactly what I'll be doing once I obtain them.

P.S. I feel like using SWIM is unnecessary and legally won't help, am I being stupid?

@kemekal: In This Thread you find the different techniques of washing. I am also looking for a wash method atm and that thread is very helpful.

@Nova
-I'm quite sure there will be no differences in yield combined. Maybe you will get more or less with each pull BUT as you pull untill there is no more alkaloid present, this doesn't matter much. Take the tek that you understand best and that suits you best (materials, time etc.)

-My first Extraction followed Q2121's Tek, and I came to the conclusion that NaOH works better for me. Other downside is that its not completely clear, for example Tek 1 + 2 which are basicly the same text copied and changed a tiny bit, which makes it a little confusing to follow imo. Otherwise its fine.

-I used Limonene to Pull with my first extrtaction, I liked it because it smells nice, is organic, food safe and catches all the spice. Naphtha allthough can be freeze-precipitated right after the pull which made it my Solvent of choice. At last I pull with Limo now to get Jungle-Spice and let that Pull sit 3-5 days

-As i understand, you can let the acidified solution sit as long as you want, also after you basified it. the pull should be done quick because the risk of other substances migrating into the solvent. you have to do several pulls anyway

-Start with a small quantity and be confident. Once you understood the procedure, its really quite simple!

-Vovins Tek seems very detailed and Nomans Tek is imo as-simple-as-it-gets

greetings, hope i could help

@Bud

Thank you so much, seems like most people agree that using NaOH works better. I was not aware that freebasing the DMT Acetate could be so annoying (from other thread) and may just try another tek instead.

Thanks again!

Hey guys! I'm pretty much all set for my first extraction just wanted to clarify a few things regarding the solvent. I will go through the Q21Q21's Tek, probably Tek 2, which they say is easier for beginner's. I have my lighter fluid Zippo brand, hope this is ok. Found two different types of paint thinner, synthetic an cellulose, with mainly Xylene and Naphtha and the other Toluene. I've dropped some on 2 different cd's and they evaporate fast but leave loads of a waxy residue, does not seem very promising! I am also looking at benzene, could this one be ok?

Regarding Lime, calcium hydroxide, had to buy 22kg for 5$, it seems they use it here for the marking of football lines!!

Also wanted to congratulate this forum and everybody since I don't think I have ever found a place with so much cooperation and organization!
Thanks for the help!
Peace and Love

I have a question about the BLAB tek

https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m...B_-_The_Big_Leisurely_AB
In the last step where you convert the acetate to freebase, if you evaporate the IPA without adding in herbs or such, do you just get the dmt in smokable form?

First of all, dont do an evap test on CDs, thats such a bad recommendation, I hope whoever invented that gets a hyperspacial slap Test with GLASS, evap on a pyrex dish. If that still means something waxy is left over, dont use it.

If your solvent contans xylene or toluene, you wont be able to freeze precipitate, and it will pull some more plant oils and (possibly insignificant) traces of other alkaloids, meaning your material will be more waxy/gooey rather than crystals (though it still works).

Benzene is carcinogenic, I wouldnt use that.

Be sure to check the FAQ for other questions you might have.



Yeah but it might be gooey/waxy so might be hard to weigh and manipulate it.

Thanks endlessness meanwhile was able to find white petroleum (pink colored!)which is 99% Naptha, so I guess I solved that solvent issue! I manage to do 2 different tek's with 50 g MHRB each to get the hang of it. Q21Q21's Tek 2 (lime) I was not expecting the difficulty of pulling the Naptha out and came with some MHRB residue. Manage to recrystallize it and put it through some coffee filters and at least they are white as snow. Having some difficulties evaporating the Naptha though. Second tek Noman's is pretty straight forward beautiful crystals but only on the second pull! I guess I will resume both tek's and yields it might be useful to somebody. Thanks again...Peace and Love

Could one use evaporation for q21q21s tek 2? As an alternative to freeze precipitation?

Mr White, pink naphtha? What is the pink? Hydrocarbons that typically make up naphtha do not have such color, so there must be something added, be careful with that!

Did you do an evap test?


shaggy.money , yes you can evaporate instead of freeze precipitate, it just might be less pure. You can always recrystallize it as FAQ says later.

Don't worry, they will be shredded to pieces in hyperspace pretty soon, hehe.

Seriously considering this Tek. Can the jungle spice be used for changa afterwards?

Hello, so I have been attempting a San Pedro extraction following the tek from erowid: http://www.erowid.org/pl...i/cacti_chemistry2.shtml

Beginning with 100 g of powdered cactus I boiled in approximately 1 L acidic water (pH = 4.5). I first ran into problems filtering the junk. I even bought a french press, but still could not get any water out. I figured I could simply continue on and once the solution was basic the alkaloids would leave the junk and go into the xylene. So I added approximately 2 g of NaOH making the pH of the junky solution around 9.0. I waited two days then proceeded with extraction with xylene. I added 200 mL of xylene to the solution, mixed, then waited 30 min for separation. I repeated 2 more times. However, after collecting the xylene I tested the pH and found it was around 5.0 and had a slightly yellowish tint. I'm pretty sure I have ruined this batch, but I am proceeding anyway by adding neutral water to collect whatever is in the xylene. But I was hoping someone had some tips for my next attempt. Thanks in advance.

Hello guys!

I'm doing my firsts extractions with some mimosa inner root bark i grabed from mimosa itself and prepared a powder from it. I used the Norman's tek, for each 15ml of water, i used 1g of powdered MHRB and 1g of lye! Total of 4,750l of water, 317g of MHRB powder and 317g of lye! Let it sit for around 1h, and then i poured a solvent that i encontered here in Brazil that we call Benzina, or eter de petroleo, that translating, its petroleum ether. i used 300ml of room temprature petroleum ether, stired the solution for 5 minutes or so, and than took it out with a pipet. Than, i used the volvin's tek wash with sodium carbonate. just 25ml of destiled water with a pinch of sodium carbonate powder. shaked the solvent with this water, separated the water, than did the same 'shaking water with solvent' process twice but now with pure destiled water. after this washing process, i placed all the solvent in a glass plate and placed a silk cloth in the top of it. than, placed a fan in front of it and waited. when the solvent was all gone, i saw in the plate something that seamed to be water goticules (maybe because i'm in a tropical country, in a city with high air humidity?). waited longer, after all the "water" was gone, and saw some crystals on it, but the rest seams to be a fine layer of some oily transparent substance. do i need to let it evaporate more time? it stayed in front of the fan until all liquid solvent we could see was gone, than let it evaporate for about 16h. Now we have some crystals on the plate, but they are not white and it took way longer to form crystals than it was said in the lazyman's tek (2.5h for 1g, including evap time with fan), not seaming to have 1g in the plate!

Another question I have about the process is: do we have to let the solvent evaporate in a dark place? does light interferes with dmt molecule?

And, after taking the solvent out of the solution with MHRB, cant i just put a becker with the solvent in a grill and let it boil to evaporate quicker?? Or even put the becker taken out of the freezer, after taking the liquid solvent from it and place it in a eletric oven at 60-80ºC to make the dry process faster? or all this heat may break the dmt molecule?

I am about to acid soak acacia plant matter using a variant of Nen888's method. (90% water 5% white vinegar 5% methylated spirits). I don't have the spirits at hand, so I am wondering if there is any benefit or danger to getting a head start with the water/vinegar overnight.

The plant matter is mostly stems, twigs and the bark from small branches (All taken in small amounts, dispersed amongst a number of trees). When I ground some of this material, it was less dry than I had thought it would be. Would it be better to just let this dry a bit more?

Thanks in advance for any help, or insight.

Hello there. I have been searching through this forum for the last few days, and I must say, there is a wealth of information here, and it's nice to see people being so helpful.

I had some questions regarding partially evaporating the naphtha before placing it it the freezer. I've been googling around, and can't seem to find an exact answer. I'll start with what I did, first:

I was able to get some nice, yellow naptha using Noman's STB tek with 100 g powdered MHRB. I used 100 g NaOH and 1250 mL dis. H2O.

I only used ~50 mL of Naptha per pull, because I read it would make it easier for the crystals to precipitate out of solution in the freezer.

For the pulls, I turned the jars end over end a few times after adding naptha heated to 110 F, then let settle for a few minutes, then repeated the process several times.

After the last agitation and separating, I took a turkey baster, sucked up as much naptha as I could, along with with some of the aqueous lye/MHRB solution, since a turkey baster isn't exactly a precision instrument.

I emptied all of this into a small cylinder that allowed me to get the naphtha out with an eyedropper after it had separated.

I then put the jars immediately into the freezer. (I did 4 pulls so far from 2 separate mixing jars)

So about 24 hours later, there do appear to be some crystals forming or floating in the jar, although this could possibly be ice. There doesn't appear to be a really viable amount yet, and there really is nothing on the walls of the containers.

I'm going to wait a little longer, but if nothing happens, should I partially evaporate the naphtha off then put the jars back in the freezer?

If so, what's the best way of doing this? Some kind of hot water bath or just exposed to air? Also, how long should it take to evaporate about 20-30% of ~50 mL? I used Klean Strip VM+P Naphtha.

Or should I use more Naphtha and wait longer on the pulls? Each jar contains roughly 50 mL of yellow colored naphtha.

Like I said, I'm going to wait a little longer to see if more crystals form, but I am about ready to do a few more pulls that have been in the mixing jars all day, and was wondering about a partial evap to make the naphtha more saturated.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated. I should note this is my first time doing a spice extraction, so I've only been going on what I've learned online, and what little bit I can remember from a year of college organic chemistry. That was a few years ago though.

When cultivating bark from an Acacia, is it more desirable to use older trees in terms of DMT yields?

I'd recommend reading the Acacia thread in the collaborative research section.

Essentially, there is no need to harvest bark - particularly trunk or root bark - from a lot of the Acacia trees. Rather, you're better off concentrating of phyllodes and stems/twigs. For a lot of varieties, these are the same alkaloidal content % as bark and a hell of a lot easier to collect.

Best of all, this type of collection can be done relatively sustainably compared to trunk or root bark where even the removal of the smallest amount will damage the tree.

With Regard to Tao of Rue and other Harmala extractions, one may find Lime (pickling lime/slaked lime/ CaOH) to be far superior to Washing Soda (NaCO3) as the alkalizing agent. This can be useful if using Lye is a turn off.