bump! hoping for some guidance, i already have the xylene pull. i just dont wanna go forward before knowing this things.

No need to reduce the pulls ime (how much xylene is there per how much bark?). FASA can be added directly, slowly, till it stops cloudying. You can add a bit, wait a while, add a bit more to see if it clouds more, etc.

What do you mean with freeze precip? If you have your alkaloids in solid salt form, what do you want to precipitate them out of? The cold anhydrous aceotne should not dissolve your fumarates

the proportion is 1gm mimosa/1gm lye/15 ml destilled water/100 ml xylene (per pull); using 100 grams of mimosa. I didnt know that acetone didnt disolved my spice, my bad! thanks for the good help as always bro! now i got it all clear..

How many pulls did you do, so total xylene more or less?

And yeah, acetone dissolves freebase spice very well, but it doesnt dissolve dmt fumarates. Just make sure its dry and cold, because the more water and the hotter it is, the more fumarates it would dissolve. Weigh before and after, and dont throw your wash acetone away in case something went wrong, so you dont lose anything.

Good luck and tell us how it went (always interested in knowing yields, yield after wash ,after conversion to freebase, etc)

I just did one warm pull so i got 100 ml of xylene.

im curious, i now that FAQ says acetone must be fresh (or as you said, cold) before preparating the FASA solution, but, where should the water you mention come from? I dont see where is the water to be used in any part of the operation.

EDIT:

i got PURE acetone, not anhydrous acetone. would it work still? neither both of my chemical products suppliers have the anhydrous

anhydrous=no water, so your 'pure' might be anhydrous.

what % is your acetone? if its 99% or more, its good to go.. if its less, then get some magnesium sulphate to dry it

For making FASA the acetone doesnt have to be cold, room temperature is fine.. for washing fumarates, its better to have it cold.

ok man thanks now i have it clear with the anhydrous acetone, yes, its 99%. im good to go... i will do the operation this afternoon.

Hey y'all.

2 questions running through my mind. I searched the forums and other sites, but couldn't find anything specifically about this, so I figured I'd throw them out to the esteemed colleagues here on the Nexus and see if anyone bites.

1) Oxidizing during EVAP: I realize that everyone always talks about evapping and no one seems to think it any kind of problem, but I have also read that exposure to oxygen converts DMT into n-oxide which is yellow, gooey and non-crystalizing. It also seems that this is what comes out of most people's total evaps. I also realize that most naptha pulls need to be reduced and concentrated in order to freeze precip. Does anyone think that room temp evaporations with a fan can convert the freebase to n-oxide?

2) Naptha layer CLEAR or YELLOWISH: It appears from observing SWIM's pulls that heated naptha pulls can sometimes come up tinged very slightly yellowish. If allowed to sit and cool while still on the base solution, they will slowly lose some of this tinge. Allowed to sit for an extended time, they can go basically clear again. Is clear naptha better?

It seems that as far as question 2 goes, the tinge could either be spice or oils. Obviously if the tinge is a good thing and it goes away as it cools, than the ideal solution is to pull while yellowy and warm. If, on the other hand, the tinge is just random plant oils that the NPS absorbs when warm or when the polar solution is very high in such oils, than waiting for it to sink would result in cleaner spice.

note: the tinge spoken of is NOT emulsion.

A friend was wondering....a tek had been done with mhrb using nature boys tek....everything had gone great up to the freeze precip....the next day when (maybe shouldn't?) pouring out the naptha and returning the container to the freezer upside down for another 24 hours allowing remaining naptha to seperate....the crystals were great but it almost seemed like there was maybe slight frost (was in a 3 cup spill proof, freezer safe pyrex container)....all scraped off nicely into their new homes (1/2 pint masons)....but a few days later when sitting at room temperature (checking stability? lol)they became slightly gooey....was it possible the solvent was still present? could the container be the cause and allowing moisture to enter?....

Hyperfool, evaporation can cause oxidization. Clear naptha is not as good as cloudy naptha but as long as its not red naptha then you're fine ;] (cloudy indicates saturation, yellow indicates oils, red indicates microemulsion of base contaminants)

If you don't feel like waiting for your pulls to clear you can just recrystallize your product at the end of your extraction.


Vanillaspice, you don't want to expose your spice to excess heat, light, or humidity. After you extract and the crystals are dry store it in a vial in a cool dark place.

Very nice...how about a suggested removal of the slight naptha odor(fumes?).recrys?

Redissolve in (non-denatured) ethanol or acetone and let re-evaporate, naphtha traces will be gone

As one would do to recrystalize? would it be just a straight air evap then or freeze precip and pour off? More interesting question...how could this step have been avoided?

Thanks Sajdah...

So the obvious follow-up question is why is everyone doing so much evaporating if it oxidizes the spice?

Is it simply a negligible amount and a good trade off for the obvious benefits? (reducing volume, better crystalization, and thorough drying of the end product)

I have heard of people who like n-oxide, and even prefer it... though most people seem to regard it as a bad thing.

I suppose the n-oxide that forms before being absorbed into the NPS is more problematic as it seems it doesn't migrate into the NPS as well. Whereas, once it is in the naptha or whatever it can oxidize all it wants and is still easily recoverable and useable. Correct me if I'm wrong on this.

As for the color of the naptha, obviously cloudy is good and totally clear is bad.

I was wondering about the yellowish tinge, and you answered that perfectly. Oils in the naptha was my 1st guess. SWIM has never seen red, but has noticed that 1st freeze precips w/o recrystalizing can look lightly pinkish, orangish and yellowish.

A kind of in-process recrystalizing was discovered by SWIM. If one takes the naptha out of the freezer relatively early in the precip and then pours everything into a fresh jar. What shows up in the 1st jar is the colored spice, but the 2nd jar precips the white stuff directly. Apparently, the heavier oils and impurities drop out first. This is what seems to be the case with the tinges I was talking about as well. Yellowy naptha will clear over time as the oils drop back out.

Obviously, this portion of "dirty" spice could be itself recrystalized or perhaps used as a "mild" version as it seems that when one is careful with the exctraction the oils that would be in there wouldn't be harmfull. It seems that a number of people shoot for red spice on purpose ala the famed "jungle spice."

Anyway, it doesn't hurt to ask questions. And one can never know enough... especially when it comes to the magic alchemy.

Evaporation only seems to cause oxidization in warm, humid climates, especially when a fan is used. When I have slow evapped heptane in the winter I yielded a nice white spice.

The oils aren't harmful. Some people like them. It all depends on what you like and what you are going for.

DMT oxide is not psychoactive?

It is.

Hello all i have run into a problem with the crystallization process and yields of my 2nd and 3rd extractions and i cant figurte out what i am doing wrong that is different from the first extraction. the first go around i had naphtha from lowes whereas i got it from sherwin william for the next two ( VM&P NAPHTHA) using mrs.wages lime and white vinegar with 5% acidity.

First of all i am using q2's lime tek a/b in a crock pot set on low heat steps go as following:
add 200g of MHRB, add and mix 200ml vinegar, add and mix 200ml hot water, let sit for 40-60 mins, add and mix 150g lime, stir for 10 mins, add 200 ml naptha, stir then let sit for 10 mins, pour off naphtha into pyrex baking dish then straight to the freezer for about 24 hours.

the first go i got crystals lining the bottom and sides of the dish and the second time after 24 hours it just looked like small spots of water was in it and a slimey film on the bottom and after evaporating the naphtha it was a goopy goo that when smoked would blast you off but wasnt near as much or near as strong also made your mouth go numb whereas the first batch did that as well slightly. idk im thinking maybe that condensation might have gotten water into the naphtha but i cant be sure and would like a more experienced opinion or advice on the tek any help would be appreciated!!

edit** i did the CD test with the naphtha and noticed it left a small amount of residue. this is with the sherwin williams VM&P Naphtha. not sure why this would leave water spot or whatever but im just not sure on anything or what i did wrong anyways bleh.

oh damn it still this CD test, where did you get this information from???? DO NOT DO EVAP TEST ON A CD, whoever invented that didnt know what they were doing. Do an evap test ON CLEAN GLASS! like a pyrex dish or something. Naphtha will dissolve the material of the cd.

So do an evap test on pyrex dish and see if it leaves residue. If it does, get another naphtha that evaps clean and recrystallize your stuff. If it doesnt, just use it to recrystallize your stuff. Instructions for recrystallization are in the FAQ