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official extraction help thread Options
 
matty476
#1141 Posted : 2/25/2011 9:43:33 PM
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i added 100g of lye and kept stirring while adding it looked like normal water when i was done (nothing floating around)
the mixture now is black and sludgy
 

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endlessness
#1142 Posted : 2/25/2011 9:45:29 PM

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100g lye to how much water/bark?

black sounds good, I guess youre good to go, just add solvent, stir, separate and keep going.
 
matty476
#1143 Posted : 2/25/2011 9:50:10 PM
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100g of mhrb and about 600ml of water
i guess i will add the solvent now Smile
 
alabama78
#1144 Posted : 3/13/2011 7:05:25 PM
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hello all sorry for my English
if I use this tek "Bufotenine IPA Extraction and Bufojam Changa Tek"
is just smoke ipa bufotenine.
no mix of herbs.
also visual trip ?
 
wingchun
#1145 Posted : 3/13/2011 9:09:52 PM

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Thanks JBark - for your thoughts - here are some replies

Yeah from oz, using acacia florabunda, and longfolia.
It would be nice to try some MHRB - next we meet, I'll swap some Acacia
for some MHRB - (I don't shop online, and can't buy it local)

Re Heat, I am using less heat as my experience grows, but I have
a lot of trouble getting enough spice into the shellite, without heat.

JBark said-"
To my knowledge, plant fats and oils should not hinder crystalization. Most fats and oils, if any exist at all in the naptha solution (see above), will sit on the top of the naptha, perhaps a little coating the crystals, but not much - unless you are evapping with oil rich source material and not freeze precipping."

Err, my understanding is Naptha/shellite are non-polar, and disolve oils pretty well ???
I certainly got no crystals till I learnt to get most of the other oils out.

Have been following the Teks here - starting to develop my own, but following
a double AB process.

 
alabama78
#1146 Posted : 3/15/2011 7:34:03 PM
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no smell tek method is used in anhydrous acetone.
You can not use pure acetone?
no anhydrous ?

Answer please, thanks in advance
 
cecil_cbr
#1147 Posted : 3/17/2011 6:17:41 AM

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i am trying a harmala extraction with 3x syrian rue powder right now, but after i added the salt solution nothing precipitated out. I added some sodium carbonate to basify, and after this i poured the solution through a coffee filter to see if anything precipitated since it was too dark to see anything in the jar.

After a couple days of waiting, the liquid finally drained through and all i have left now is a dark brown mush that is the consistency of mud. I'm not sure what this is, but i have a feeling it might not be anything i want. Anybody else have this kind of experience?
 
endlessness
#1148 Posted : 3/17/2011 10:00:45 AM

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Added salt solution? You should saturate with salt the whole thing, not just add salt solution. Check the harmala extraction guide in the wiki

The mud is probably your very impure alkaloids. Redissolve in hot acidified water, re-salt, re-basify. check the guide
 
easyrider
#1149 Posted : 3/17/2011 1:42:39 PM

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One is going to be conducting his/her first extraction soon enough. One wants to know the procedure by heart and have no qualms before one begins. There is a general puzzlement present when reading Noman's Tek.

Quote:
5. After the final agitation, separate the two layers. The naptha (top layer) goes in one of the collection jars, the rest stays in the mixing jar with the bark.

This separation is done easily with a lab separation funnel, so the Tek says. How would one do this, though? Does one just empty the whole contents of the mixing jar in the separation funnel? Does the separation funnel automatically separate the naphtha from the bark? If this is the case, should one pour the bark mixture back in the original mixing jar from the separation funnel?


Quote:
7. Repeat steps 4 to 6 three more times. Leave the last NP extraction in the jar for a day or two, agitating occasionally to pick up any strays.


Why does the last NP extraction have to be left out for 1-2 days with occasional rolling around on the floor, while the others are in the freezer? Shouldn't all of the collection jars be outside for 1-2 days with occasional agitation, and then be placed in the freezer?

Quote:
10. If one wants to clean the crystals (specially if some of the lye/bark solution came across accidentally when separating the solvent), what one can do is a sodium carbonate wash. This is done by redissolving the crystals in naphtha. Then separately, make a solution of water with a bit of sodium carbonate (no need to be accurate, just a pinch of sodium carbonate to, say, 50ml water). Then mix the sodium carbonate solution with the solvent containing the DMT, separate, discarding the water, and freeze the solvent. Voilá


One assumes that this step should be done in a fresh, clean collection jar. How much naphtha should be used when redissolving the crystals? How should one mix the sodium carbonate solution with the naphtha/DMT solvent -- by shaking the jar or stirring? How does one go about separating this mixture -- by separation funnel? If that is the case, then which layer would contain the DMT? The naphtha or the sodium carbonate/water solution? Does one discard the water through coffee filtration? Would the end solvent have to be filtered again after freezing?


Also, is recrystallization absolutely necessary? One does not have the means to heat it because one owns a gas stove. Plus it just seems too dangerous after reading the warnings of the fumes being extremely flammable.
"'Most men will not swฮนm before they are able to.' Is not that witty? Naturally, they won't swฮนm! They are born for the solid earth, not for the water. And naturally they won't think. They are made for life, not for thought. Yes, and he who thinks, what's more, he who makes thought his business, he may go far in it, but he has bartered the solid earth for the water all the same, and one day he will drown."

โ€” Hermann Hesse
 
cecil_cbr
#1150 Posted : 3/18/2011 2:51:53 AM

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thanks endlessness. I am guessing it is better to add salt straight to the solution instead of dissolving it in water and then adding it. I have already tried dissolving the mush in hot water/vinegar but only some of it dissolved, so the rest must be junk i'm sure.

 
endlessness
#1151 Posted : 3/23/2011 12:08:19 AM

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easyrider wrote:


Quote:
5. After the final agitation, separate the two layers. The naptha (top layer) goes in one of the collection jars, the rest stays in the mixing jar with the bark.


This separation is done easily with a lab separation funnel, so the Tek says. How would one do this, though? Does one just empty the whole contents of the mixing jar in the separation funnel? Does the separation funnel automatically separate the naphtha from the bark? If this is the case, should one pour the bark mixture back in the original mixing jar from the separation funnel?


Yeah it can be separatory funnel or pull with pippette/glass syringe/turkey baster. Check FAQ for tips on separation too. Yeah you could pour the contents of mixing jar into separatory funnel. And just like the naphtha raises (like water and oil separate), so it will happen the same in the separatory funnel. Drain the bottom part until there's just naphtha left. You can add a bit of water to wash down remains of basic liquid stuck to the separatory funnel walls and then drain the bottom layer of washed water and you'll have clean solvent in your separatory funnel

easyrider wrote:

Quote:
7. Repeat steps 4 to 6 three more times. Leave the last NP extraction in the jar for a day or two, agitating occasionally to pick up any strays.


Why does the last NP extraction have to be left out for 1-2 days with occasional rolling around on the floor, while the others are in the freezer? Shouldn't all of the collection jars be outside for 1-2 days with occasional agitation, and then be placed in the freezer?



The last extraction is left so that this gives the naphtha the change to pick up the last 'stubborn' dmt that didnt get pulled yet with the first pulls. Btw I wouldnt roll on the floor, personally I rather mix with a wooden spoon or something, but as long as its mixed, whatever strategy you have is fine (dont shake though).

The collection jars will only be naphtha and they wont have the mimosa together with them, so why would you leave them out and agitate once in a while?

easyrider wrote:

Quote:
10. If one wants to clean the crystals (specially if some of the lye/bark solution came across accidentally when separating the solvent), what one can do is a sodium carbonate wash. This is done by redissolving the crystals in naphtha. Then separately, make a solution of water with a bit of sodium carbonate (no need to be accurate, just a pinch of sodium carbonate to, say, 50ml water). Then mix the sodium carbonate solution with the solvent containing the DMT, separate, discarding the water, and freeze the solvent. Voilá


One assumes that this step should be done in a fresh, clean collection jar. How much naphtha should be used when redissolving the crystals? How should one mix the sodium carbonate solution with the naphtha/DMT solvent -- by shaking the jar or stirring? How does one go about separating this mixture -- by separation funnel? If that is the case, then which layer would contain the DMT? The naphtha or the sodium carbonate/water solution? Does one discard the water through coffee filtration? Would the end solvent have to be filtered again after freezing?

Also, is recrystallization absolutely necessary? One does not have the means to heat it because one owns a gas stove. Plus it just seems too dangerous after reading the warnings of the fumes being extremely flammable.


Check FAQ for washing and recrystallization instructions. You shouldnt have open fire near solvent, pre-boil some water and do a warm water bath with solvent for re-x, as FAQ says.

The solvent will contain the dmt. Separation of washing is same as with before, either glass syringe/turkey baster/etc or sep funnel. No need to filter anything during the wash.

As for if recrystallization (and wash) is really necessary, depends, check the FAQ and this thread too:

https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=11715


good luck

 
easyrider
#1152 Posted : 3/23/2011 1:50:23 AM

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endlessness wrote:
Check FAQ for washing and recrystallization instructions. You shouldnt have open fire near solvent, pre-boil some water and do a warm water bath with solvent for re-x, as FAQ says.

The solvent will contain the dmt. Separation of washing is same as with before, either glass syringe/turkey baster/etc or sep funnel. No need to filter anything during the wash.

As for if recrystallization (and wash) is really necessary, depends, check the FAQ and this thread too:

https://www.dmt-nexus.co...spx?g=posts&t=11715


good luck


Thanks a whole bunch! I understand everything perfectly now. However, how much naphtha is required to redissolve the crystals during the sodium carbonate wash? Also do you think using distilled water through the whole extraction process would increase the purity of the end product?
"'Most men will not swฮนm before they are able to.' Is not that witty? Naturally, they won't swฮนm! They are born for the solid earth, not for the water. And naturally they won't think. They are made for life, not for thought. Yes, and he who thinks, what's more, he who makes thought his business, he may go far in it, but he has bartered the solid earth for the water all the same, and one day he will drown."

โ€” Hermann Hesse
 
endlessness
#1153 Posted : 3/23/2011 9:23:18 AM

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I noticed no difference at all using distilled and tap water, and used tap water from several different places, always worked perfect.

It could maybe make a difference if for some reason your local tap water is specially hard (full of dissolved minerals and chemicals) which could make other things a bit less soluble in it (I remember someone once posting trying to do a sodium carb wash but nearly no sodium carb would dissolve in their tap water), but I would say its more likely that your tap water will be just fine.

As for amount of naphtha to redissolve, well, just enough for it to dissolve all the dmt, which might be around 30-50ml warm naphtha per gram of dmt
 
meevee
#1154 Posted : 4/1/2011 3:02:43 PM
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Is it normal for the BLAB acetates converstion, after being pulled from the sodium carbonate with acetone and added to herbs to make changa....to smell of oranges quite strongly?





 
kinkyking
#1155 Posted : 4/12/2011 7:25:33 AM

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1. What happens if someone try to do a Rue Manske with iodized salt?

2. Is the any way to remove Iodine from salt?
 
Dedalus
#1156 Posted : 4/17/2011 5:38:05 PM

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I just thought of a horrible possibility and I need any answers anyone can give asap.

I'm doing to poor man's tek, and am in the stage of evapping the basified water which was steeped (when it was acid) in the DMT-containing oil from earlier step. What is worrying me is that there are loads of droplets of oil in this basified water and that the DMT may be going back into the oil which I was going to get rid of once water dried.

Also, if the above is not the case, how would you recommend cleaning off the oil?
The above is for entertainment purposes only.

"A caged community of chimpanzees reacts very sensitively if a member of the tribe has received LSD. Even though no changes appear in this single animal, the whole cage gets in an uproar because the LSD chimpanzee no longer observes the laws of its finely coordinated hierarchic tribal order."
From LSD: My Problem Child
 
endlessness
#1157 Posted : 4/17/2011 5:43:50 PM

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I think you got it wrong. You do not evaporate the basified water, you evaporate the solvent.. The dmt should be in the solvent
 
lohes
#1158 Posted : 4/26/2011 3:41:11 AM

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Lohes is using MHRB, and the Lazyman's tek, but is considering freeze precipitating instead of evaporating

This is how Lohes is planning on extracting DMT, using the layman's tek, pouting this to see if anything is wrong/dangerous/could be improved ect.
What kind of gloves exactly should he be wearing? What kind of mask? Is there specific goggles for this procedure?

-Place 1 pound of whole MHRB into a large bowl, add 2.5L of water, and 200g of Lye to the mixture
-Wait 1 hour to let the Lye break down the root bark (Does Lohes need to keep the bowl airtight because of evaporation/fumes? He will be wearing a mask, but the less fumes the better off the world is)
-Stir and mash (Does it really matter how hard I stir it?) for 20-30 minutes, add ~275ml of Naphtha (Is there any other Canadian substitutes, or a website Lohes can get ~4L for cheap?) Stir and mash for another 20-30 minutes
-Let sit for 2 and a half hours for the solvent to absorb/contain the DMT
-Separate the solvent from the lye solution and place it (solvent) in a (clamped) mason jar in the coldest possible freezer, after X amount of time, or when it looks Y (I have no idea what X or Y are)
-Pour out the solvent after X or Y into another mason jar and place that in the freezer again to get more crystals
-Pour more solvent into the MHRB/lye/water solution after mashing it for 20-30 minutes, mash/stir for 20-30 more, let it sit for 7 hours, pull form the lye/MHRB/water mixture, freeze percip again
-Repeat again but let the solvent sit for 38.5 hours, to get all of that lovely DMT


Lohes is also considering just evaporation the solvent, would he get worse results? Is a sodium carbonate wash necessary in my situation? Should he be worried about DMT N-Oxide? Is there a substitute for Lye? He says he's also concerned about the film that he's reading about, forming on crystals, what does he do if that happens?

EDIT: or is it even worth doing the lazyman's tek? I've heard while in the chat that there is lots of problems that usually arise, Im looking into other teks, but I'd like to start simple

Re-EDIT: I'm going to do norman's tek instead
 
Turtle
#1159 Posted : 5/21/2011 4:44:36 AM
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Hey guys, I'm sorry to post another story of similar failure to others, but SWIM has been attempting to run Lazyman's STB in the following manner, and, after SEVERAL tries with the original 1 lb, he was unsuccessful at acquiring any crystals other than a small amount (<1g) during the first try.

He starts with 450g MHRB, 2 L distilled water, and around 220g KOH (until the pH is around 13-13.5), stirs thoroughly until the mixture is well-mixed.

Next, he uses ~400g naphtha (Ace VM&P) while mixing (sloshing so as not to emulsify) over a heat bath of boiling water. He mixes this for some 10-20 minutes.

After this, (for the first pull) he uses a baster to carefully collect the naphtha.
IT HAS BEEN DARK BROWN (never light yellow/clear/etc) NEARLY EVERY SINGLE TIME, he tells me.

So next he washes the naphtha with 10% volume distilled water with one pinch of pH up (sodium carbonate), mixes thoroughly via baster, then places into hot (boiling-ish) heat bath of water. After the separation stage, he is often left with some large amount of emulsion (roughly = naphtha content) and lesser amount of water, which he separates by decanting out the naphtha and emulsion.

He water washes (same process without Na2CO3, just 10% water) twice afterward, and leaves out emulsion after the last wash. Then he puts this naphtha into the freezer. The next day, no crystals form, there is often a very small frozen chunk (presumably of water), and there appears to be some cloudiness, but no crystallization (even after filtration, which yields nothing). (Repeat for subsequent pulls.)

Essentially, he is very disappointed and decided to try smaller quantities (~50g MHRB to begin).

Can you guys think of anything wrong with his process? It's his first time making DMT.

Thanks a lot!
 
endlessness
#1160 Posted : 5/21/2011 11:20:30 AM

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Did you check the FAQ? I think your pulls are way too huge, use 100-150ml instead and you'll probably have it crystallizing nicely straight away. So your big pulls should be evaporated down to a small amount and put in the freezer again. I hope you didnt throw anything away, because dmt doesnt dissapear, if your bark was good in the first place its gonna work, be patient Very happy

Also one sodium carb wash is enough, if you want to do a second its cool but I dont recommend doing pure water wash, because there is more chance of losing dmt, better only wash with basic water.
 
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