Indeed, pull again with more naphtha (or toluene or xylene although they won't freeze precipitate). There is no need to do anything else to the base soup. You may well find more DMT has migrated from the bark as it has had an extra few days to digest.

Best of luck!

Thank you for the replies Pete666 and Downwardsfromzero. I did 5 additional pulls (i mistakenly only mixed each once though) and picked up .46 so in all it gives me 1.71 grams. Not bad for 3rd extraction. I will split my last 125g MHRB into two 62g batches next time. Each time I am in a hurry and I recognize this as the main mistake.

I also Evaporated the left over Naphtha from the first two extractions and seem to have quite a bit more drying.

I am so grateful for this community and thankful for another plant helping us reach our potential.

You are welcome.

Yes, almost all mistakes I have done were because I was impatient.

Please take into account that when evaporating solvent, it is more likely to bring impurities, even lye. I am never doing that. Rather reuse the solvent in next extraction.

Pete666,

So as I can only go forward, I have this image which is taking FOREVER (always while waiting) to dry and even though it is forming some crystals, is active (yes I smoked some ) I want to "clean it up" I am not sure if I should follow a Re-X tek or do something else with this stuff, and maybe clean up the last gram I evaporated besides this stuff. I tried to "melt" this into Naphtha (room temp) and it did not dissolve. BTW, this is also crystallizing at room temp.

Update:
I am going to try warm Naphtha with this as it is still not dry

Hi all. This is my first post. SWIM had a question about his basified solution from an A/B tek off of PsychonautWiki.

SWIM is seeing a few distinct phases, or what seem to be distinct at least and he's confused on how to proceed extracting & separating. SWIM used an A/B tek as I mentioned above so there should be no emulsion.

As I was told, there's the basified solution at the bottom which is most of the contents of the jar which is just pure black. One couldn't even shine a flashlight through it. Then there is this super thin (relatively speaking) dark brown layer which one could kind of see through, but not really and it looks to be a clear delineation between the brown and the black. Then above those is just über cloudy and milky yellowish-white layer that turns more yellow and transparent as it goes up. It used to go up till it was pretty much entirely transparent but SWIM had started to remove some of the naphtha because it had been sitting out for a while and he hadn't known how to proceed. That yellowish-white layer is thinner then the basic layer, but much wider than the brownish one. SWIM didn't defat.

While SWIM was doing the acid cook, and separating the plant matter and water, SWIM got large lumps of the plant matter and rung out the water via cheesecloth from the plant matter. SWIM knows he rang out alot of the color of the matter which is why it's really brown, yellow and orange in the solutions phases, but could SWIM have rang out more plant fats or actual plant matter to cause an emulsion?

SWIM knows an emulsion would look like bubbles of naphtha and the basic solution mixed together, similar to how an Italian dressing might look, but that thin brown layer seems to be pretty uniform in texture and color like the other phases.

SWIM wants wants to remove all layers except for the defined basified layer and do a sodium carbonate wash on everything else collected.

Would that make sense? Or is that brownish layer going to cause him some problems?

Sorry for long post, I just thought context was important. SWIM might be able to provide a photo to me if necessary. Thanks.

Welcome.


'SWIY' knows wrong. Your emulsion can appear as a uniform paler (than the base soup), brownish layer, not (or not merely) visible bubbles. Think mayonnaise. That's an emulsion.

You want to collect the naphtha layer - which, incidentally, sounds like it's already precipitating DMT. Ideally you will break the emulsion first.

Sodium carbonate washes aren't strictly necessary if you've taken sufficient care to avoid picking up any base soup along with the naphtha. It's really worth getting rid of that emulsion (or avoiding producing it in the first place, of course).

The Nexus is a great resource where questions such as yours have been asked and answered many times before. Have a look through the information available, such as the wiki and once you've grasped the basic principles behind extraction, it should all become a lot clearer.

Well the best is to re-x with heptane or naptha. If you are working with freebase, get rid of everything that doesn't dissolve. Use 20ml of warm heptane per 1g of expected dmt freebase
Alternative is doing sodium carbonate wash.
The main reason is gettin rid of lye, if there is any. And believe me, there will be if you evaporate and not freeze-precipitate.
Do you know how dmt freebase is supposed to taste? Try your evaporation result. If there is a lye, you will know...

And again - never evaporate, always freeze-precipitate or re-x. It is much safer this way.

Thank you.

SWIM has been doing research for weeks and he finally decided to ask me to leave a post because the things he tried weren't working.

However, one thing I happened to stumble upon in the forums today is the viscosity of the basic solution and the proportion of the different chemicals in the solution. They had mentioned that particularly for STBs with the plant matter as part of the stew that solution has to be a consistency to avoid an emulsion and for the nps to make enough contact with the solution/stew. Since my basic solution is extremely fluid and black, might it be worth it to just include more water since I've already added more lye in a water solution twice? Any thoughts welcomed.

CND.

OK, sounds like you still need to try a few things to break the emulsion.
-vibration (e.g., washing machine, refrigerator or sex toy)
-still more lye (really concentrated)
-strong salt solution
-vacuum filtration
-refrigeration (freezing, even)
-heating (use a water bath!!)
-patience

Putting the emulsion layer into a test tube will at least help you to see if it's separating.

Otherwise separate the clear naphtha (warm it up to see if the white stuff dissolves) and do another naphtha pull.

Did you use tap water for the cook? Do you live in a hard water area? That might be screwing things up. You may need to use distilled water.

BTW, forum etiquette here is that we don't bother with 'SWIM' as it's no kind of legal protection.

There are many ways how the emulsion can look like. And there are many reasons why they created. There can be 3 layers (water/emulsion/solvent), just two (water/emulsion), or only one (emulsion). If you don't have emulsion, you usually know that, clear solvent is usually easy to identify.

downwardsfromzero offered you many ways how to break the emulsion. I would separate just the emulsion, so you work just with it, not with everything. I would leave it to sit for day or two and check whether it starts to decompose. If not, I would start with heating it for an hour or two in a water bath, you can go up to 100C. If you don't see emulsion reduction within this time, it is not likely you will break it this way. If you do, you can keep it hot and try to attach some vibrating device to it. Can be two mobile phones with vibration on for full time. If nothing works, the emulsion seems to be stable emulsion. There is still one magic bullet in emulsion destruction. If the emulsion was created in basic environment, acidify it to pH about 3-4 with a bit of water and some kind of acid (HCl,...) and mix properly. If it was created in acidic environment, raise the pH to something like 11-12 with a bit of water and strong base (NaOH, KOH) and mix as well. I have never seen an emulsion that would not decompose at that point. And I have seen many...

And my last advice - avoid emulsions before they happen, it is much easier than to solve them later. Select proper TEK and you should be safe

Wise words, I thought I'd added this to my post but must have been hallucinating for some reason

It can be fun to rest the limits of the patience tek.
This emulsion is 7 months old.
I dont technically know if its the emulsion or myself that is being tested.

have you tried to break it up? Or are you just using "waiting" strategy?

I like your style. Some slow chemistry is worth the wait.

As an aside, iron pentacarbonyl was, if not discovered (it might have been), at least found to have formed somewhat unexpectedly after keeping carbon monoxide compressed in steel cylinders for several years at normal room temperature. IIRC it was only thought to be formed under more extreme conditions but this shows that interesting things can happen s..l..o..w..l..y as well!

It formed when rinsing used solvent at the end of cactus extracting season, theres no product in it so I've just been waiting. When I finally get to doing more mescaline extraction I suppose I'll need that glassware back. Those old style pharmaceutical graduates are great for settling the last droplets of lye water out of solvent and I have several kilos of cactus chips waiting to be extracted.

Hi again. I appreciate all of your help. Some updates since last night.


I hadn't mentioned before, but all water used is distilled.

Had an emulsion (3 layers) up until this afternoon. I ran out to get some rock salt and put it into my solution only to realize I probably should melted the salt in water first. So I did that and made a load of laundry with the jar on top. Sure enough, I think my emulsion broke?

Now, it's only two layers, though it could very well be the basic mix on bottom with a full emulsion on top. Seems unlikely with everything I went through and the fact that this is an A/B tek. Basic mix on bottom is fully black with a dark but transparent layer on top. Posting a pic. Thoughts appreciated.

Few things on the photo; it uploaded sideways, sorry. Sorry for the strange perspective, but the context is that the dark bottom (wider, non-transparent) layer is the majority contents of the jar with that narrower, transparent, brown layer is what I believe to be my naphtha layer, extremely saturated, but with no emulsion. Am I correct to surmise this, or do I have an even worse emulsion now?

If I'm in the clear, why is it so dark? I've heard if naphtha pulling oils and other alkaloids that can be treated with a recrystallization & a washing soda wash, but of the few dozen examples I've seen online, this is the darkest. Thoughts?

Hi,

i have followed the extraction path of cybs max ion tek and got a good outcome, the starting material was MHRB. One pull which was heated a little stronger gave me significant more yield of some more brown / orange stuff, the pull with less heat / time in the base step is more yellow.

Now i have initiated a re-x from hot naphta with both. The yellow one dissolved good in low amount of nps...but the other just little, even with high amount of nps there is much not dissolved.
A vape test of this "residue" smelled good...maybe a little harsh but i think this is from the not comletely evaped naphta.

Is there someone who can explain this to me?

You don't mention volume of bark and you say one pull. You know you should be doing multiple pulls(5-6 with 3 "shakes" each) each time right TryptaTom?

I can't explain it but I will tell you I had some evaporated naphtha from a few pull that just wasn't drying and off color and melted it in 25ml of warm naphtha. Most melted, what didn't I threw away after poring the warm naphtha into a freezing dish. I also used a lot of heat and assume it was plant material of some sort. Brown though, maybe some base soup contamination?

Simply estimate the dmt amount in the material. Add 20-30ml of heptane/naphtha per g of dmt. Heat it to 60-70C and keep stirring for a while to dissolve as much as possible. Pour off the naphtha and continue as you wish. What remains is likely a shit. But to ensure, you can repeat with another 10-15ml/g batch of naphtha and try to get the last bits out of it. If you get some result, you can continue with less naphtha till it makes sense.

it worked with higher temperature. Maybe it is because of the NaCl that there is that much stuff in that little NPS? The difference in NPS needed for pull and re-x was just too big...I filtered through a coffee-filter and collected a little oils / plant matter - the outcome was yewllow and shiny. Thank you.