Now obviously this could be very dangerous for an inexperienced user and would have to be handled with care by anyone at all, but SWIM has a sneaking suspicion that this would work very well. The idea and advantage to this would be that the lack of a flame would cut down on the potential for burning product, and that since the machine merely requires the mesh to be heated, it could be accomplished a bit more directly this way.

For use of the machine method with a bubbler, one could simply have a piece of the mesh sticking very slightly out of the bowl so as to have a place to heat without coming into direct contact with any product.

Also, they do make butane soldering irons, which are usually much smaller and, of course, portable.

On another safety note: SWIM has a butane lighter that has a toggle switch which sometimes slips and keeps the flame on. SWIM's seen plenty of FOAF's handle such a situation just fine, so he believes that this could be handled just as well.

The problem is that while SWIM has all of the equipment to test this, he doesn't have any product.... Certainly someone on here could test this.

This probably wouldn't work. Soldering irons are actually pretty ineffective in putting out heat--except in actual "pressure" contact with what you're trying to solder. I think you'd be surprised at how poorly the heat would transmit to wire mesh.

What WOULD WORK very nicely is a hot air gun (or, indeed, some modern soldering "irons" that aren't really irons but tiny hot air blowers themselves--but they're rather expensive).

Here's a small and cheap hot air gun that would work great I'll bet. It even appears to work by "trigger," so that if you dropped it from your hand it would turn off.

Here's one (soldering iron AND hot air gun) that is apparently adjustable for temperature.

I have used a heat gun successfully a few times.
I have one for heating shrink-wrap when I make new cables.

It indeed worked very well, although it was rather bulky & uncomfortable to work with.
It was actually a friend & I experimenting with finding the best vaporizing technique a few years back.

We were using a regular glass bulb, oil pipe (meth pipe), one built into a small bubbler.
Even with someone else holding the gun & heating the bowl for you, it was hard not to throw heat at the user as well!!
Although I suppose an oil bulb attached to a larger bong or something would be easier to maneuver & deal with.

The soldering iron probably wouldn't work, because they are designed to transfer a large amount of heat to a very small, localized area.
So it would probably only burn up the small area right around where you touch it.


That little heat gun would probably work pretty good for heating the brillo in the Machine, or in a regular herb bubbler!!
WS

That's really only if used properly, as in, without prolonged contact.


The heat gun sounds interesting (this one that SWIMfriend posted, especially), but SWIM did a little test which seemed to work quite well.

What he did was to wet a copper mesh ball, put it in a bowl, and essentially inject the tip of a soldering iron into the edge. It seemed to vaporize the water almost completely within seconds--completely to the point of injecting it into other parts of the mesh and not getting a significant amount of boiling. The boiling point of DMT is somewhat lower than that of water, so this should be some indication. SWIM would still like to hear from some SWIY with the resources to properly test this.

Still, what's going to happen to the soldering iron when the spice comes on with full force? Anyone who's worked with a soldering iron knows about the tendency for things to get burned around them unintentionally. Sounds like a potential fire hazard, maybe.

That's very true SF!!
I have the scars to proof it, And I've always been sober when I was making cables or circuits...before!!

I have a digital based soldering iron that allows me to adjust the temp of the tip to whatever I want, in 1 degree steps, up to 800F degrees.
They have something pretty much the same for sale at Radioshack for under $100.
I doubt it's as accurate as my Weller, but we're not making circuit boards here...
Still, I just don't think it would be very...usable...in a real-world scenario.
You'll have to give it a try & let us know if your really curious.

You can get a standard, 2-temp heat gun at Home De-POT for under $45, I know that it works very well, although it would have the same issue's as the soldering iron, pain in the ass to deal with by yourself!
But at least there would be a switch that turns it off immediately, instead of the tip taking 10 minutes to cool down, like most soldering irons.
A bit easier/safer.
I'd bet it would work even better if using the Brillo method to hold the spice!

Maybe you could MacGuyver a pipe together that incorporates the little heat gun that SF linked & a glass bowl that can hold a ball of Brillo. Seriously!! That way you don't have to try & handle two separate, breakable/burnable devices. Just one!
You could set it up so the heat source is the perfect distance from the bowl so that it vaporizes, but not burns the spice.


Oh, BTW the heat gun set on low, works so great for vaporizing MJ in a glass bowl too!!!
Yum, Yum Yum!!!

WS

Not exactly sure what you mean by the phrase I underlined in you post.
The whole idea with using a heat gun, is that there is no flame involved.
Only hot air being blown by the gun.
So there is no need for any lighters at all.

The heat gun I have only has a 3 position switch, it's either set to HIGH - LOW - or OFF.
Here is a link to a pic of the one I have.
I have it for heating shrink wrap around the individual wires in the audio cables I make myself, for my studio, so I didn't need a real fancy one.
I think there are some available though, that give you an adjustable temperature control.


Also, the HIGH/LOW settings on the one I have, also adjust how strongly the hot air is blown out of the gun.
So when it is on HIGH, it blows the heat harder than when it is set to LOW.
I would guess you could find one out there, where you could control both the temp & the blower speed.
But I'd imagine that would cost a whole lot more than $20 for the basic model I have.


WS

I believe he's referring to this: http://cableorganizer.com/solder-it/micro-therm-heat-gun.html --a link that SWIMfriend posted. SWIM's actually reconsidering this one and thinks that if it works well, may be the best choice. Though SWIM will likely try a butane soldering iron, as he needs one anyway.

I know people who use these Hakko ceramic soldering irons with the cover removed so that the heating element is exposed.
Only seen it used for ground up bud but this guy is using it on some hash oil. Maybe something similar would work?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9TpVvrmKDY


An image for reference: http://i66.photobucket.c...gdnim13/Picture011-5.jpg

I have a Hakko iron (looks like the same one!). It does have that ceramic element. I always had the idea it could break easily (but I don't really know). You still have the problem of needing to set it down in a safe place so it doesn't catch anything on fire...

it cools down quicker than a normal one though so you can just unplug it as soon as you are done and it will be safer.
If you get a low wattage one it will need close to direct contact to transfer enough heat to set fire.
I set mine down on my desk and the handle raises it enough to leave it sitting there.
Works really nice for bud too. It vaporizes it nicely, You can actually just stick it into the bowl.
I try to cut down on using gas driven lighters as to not inhale the fumes (I use a water pipe).
I also use beeline for the same reason (www.beelinehawaii.com).

if you have a modern stove with glass on top instead of the old coil burners you can use a med/large funnel with a hose and vap on stove top. I have had sucess with this on two different stove types. They have flat glass cooking surface. Put a blanket and pillow on kitchen floor lay down and your off to the wild blue yonder.

That's a pretty cool, inventive idea!! Nice!

I bet that would work really great for vaporizing MJ!! It'd have to be powdered pretty well.

WS

Excellent idea!

I suppose you can also get "hot plates" made along the same lines...

How's $18 sound??

A cool idea for the hobbyist: Build a small circuit with two small power resistors (probably 5W each is all that would be needed), plus theormocouple and a very simple circuitry to control temperature (and LCD readout is very easy to add). A small piece of gold leaf could cover the resistors, and make a totally inert (and conceptual cool!) heating surface.
You could then adjust to find the EXACT proper temperature (and thus the exact voltage or current, as read on your meter) for vaporizing DMT (isn't it just a bit under 160C ?).

To it I would add a water filter area, and an adjustable globe or column--with a small vacuum capacity. From previous measurement you know how large a chamber is necessary for X-dose of spice. You set the chamber to the right size, evacuate it, and start heating the spice. When all have evaporated, a valve is opened, and all the spice will be pulled through the water into the vacuum chamber. Another value is opened and one inhales through a piece of hose as much of the spice as needed. Those with good lung capacity are guaranteed one-hit breakthroughs!

It would be easy to automate temperature setting (adjustment required only the first time used). It would also be easy to have a momentary-type switch, so as soon as the switch is let go, the instrument turns off. Also easy enough to make it battery powered!

SWIM believes the boiling point of DMT to be 60-80C.

Geez, the more I think about this the more interesting it gets!!!

Just for purposes of discussion, say the molecular weight of DMT-freebase is about 200MW. That means that about 200 GRAMS of DMT-vapor would fill an empty chamber of 22.4 Liters, and be at 1 ATM pressure and RT.

200 MILLIGRAMS of DMT vaporized into an evacuated chamber would easily fit into 22.4 CCs--a cube less than 3cm (1 inch) on a side! Or, IOW...there'd be a WORLD of room in an evacuated space of say...500CC--half a liter.

If one had TWO such 500CC chambers (separated by a small water resevoir--which could be valved off, if necessary), EACH chamber evacuated, with one 500CC side containing the heating plate apparatus and spice, and the other 500CC side just evacuated and having a connection for a hose and mouthpiece...

Then:

1) The DMT would vaporize VERY quickly and easily upon being melted--in an evacuated chamber. And would easily fill the 500CC chamber--practically with room to spare.
2) After it had completely vaporized into the first chamber, if all valves were opened (the valves on both sides of the water, and a valve opening the vaporized side to the outside, room air, then the 500CCs of vapor would almost instantanously bubble through the water and come into the evacuated side with the mouthpiece.
3) When that happens, the valve for the mouthpiece is opened, and one can then EASILY take a 500CC hit, FOLLOWED by another couple of liters of air that will now follow through the water as well, because the valve to the open air is opened on the spice side.

You could EASILY get ALL the vapor from even 100mg of spice in a single hit (with no DMT burning either, because the heating element is fine-tuned). NO PROBLEM. A big full breath for most people is generally between 3-4 liters. Thus it would be EASY to get a full hit in 500 ml, plus the rest would be air.

It's the use of the evacuated spaces that makes ALL THE DIFFERENCE! Normally, vapor is vaporized into 1 ATM air--there's significant pressure resistance to add vapor to that air.

Of course the evacuation/vacuum isn't going to be some mega-pressure vacuum...but 500CC is a WHOLE LOT bigger than 22.4CC, too!

FYI: what makes this different than a bong, for example, is the vacuum in the INITIAL chamber, which allowed for COMPLETE vaporization--and in a very short time.

COOL! That makes it all EVEN EASIER!

No, I think Swimfriend is right. Try to vaporize it by putting a test tube with some DMT into boiling water - nothing, it melts at 100 C but doesn't boil or vaporize at all! If it were that volatile, vaporizing from glass pipes would be much easier.

Interesting ideas here, thanks for sharing. Years ago I bought a heat gun to vaporize MJ and it kind of works, but I don't like the noise and hassle in the middle of the night...

so then what IS the vaporizing temperature of dmt?