…. So let's go now,

After almost one year looking at this forum, taking advices among topics … I finally decide to make a report of my experiments with acacia simplex.


Taking the bark

I first began taking bark from big trees but only taking outside thick and hard bark in a way not to damage the tree itself.
The 5 first extractions gave me my first conclusion: DO NOT take dead bark for your extractions, the bark should be alive. Even the bark still on a living tree but completely dry is not suitable for an extraction.
So I first take the bark out of the tree with a knife, and after taking out the lichens and dead bark on it (it's easier on a small tree, 4-5 meters high). The bark is red (old trees) or pink (young ones) outside and white/cream inside. Fresh bark is easy to cut into small pieces by hand. Then you can put it in a mixer, if you don't want your mixer to be damaged, you have to do it when bark is still fresh and moisten. You obtain not a powder, but something like sawdust which is ok for our purpose. Last step, you put it in a large dish and in the oven at 80°C or outside letting the sun doing the job. Once it's well dry you almost loose half weight and you can store it in a hermetic black box for months.


Extractions

- For details, please refer to dmt handbook to have basis for extraction.

My first extraction was with a mix of dead and alive bark. But as result was oily goo and expecting having crystals, I throw it away…
After 15 extractions I can give you my tek. My tek is inspired and very similar with thicklight tek.

Here it is for 100mg of dry bark:
Prepare in a 5 liters jug: 4 liters of water + 200 ml of white vinegar
Mix dry bark with 500 ml of water/vinegar and boil it for 1h30-2h, keep brown tea
Do this acid bath 5 or 6 times until brown tea is becoming very clear
You finish with 2.5 or 3 liters of brown tea, filter it (the more you can) and reduce it to 0.5 liter. Boiling the brown tea to reduce, will result also in a settling operation, so filter and settle is much better when the liquid is hot.

At this time I do 2 defat with 200 ml of naphta each, but I'm not sure it's useful, may be you can cancel it.

Add 1 soup spoon of salt (without iode) call "gros sel de Guérande"

Add 75 cl of "lessive de soude 30.5% " this is approx. 30g caustic soda/lye. pH should increase to 12 or more.

To obtain white fluffy xtals, and separate NMT from DMT you should do that way:
When you do your pull with naphta, you should do it at high temperature.
Put your basic solution in a 1L glass bottle and add 200-300ml of naphta.
Put the bottle in a hot bath with boiling water (be very careful, and let the pressure release from time to time). Shake the bottle, let the pressure release. Try to keep the temp as high as your hand can handle the bottle (I guess 45°C). When naphta and basic solution are at the same hot temp, there is no more pressure to release. You can shake it like hell, if your solution is well filtered, pH high enough, and temperature high enough, you shouldn't have big emulsion. Once well shaked, let the emulsion disappear, this can be helped by pouring some boiling water on the closed bottle directly on the emulsion (again be very careful to release the pressure). Once the emulsion is gone, pull the naphta out from the bottle, this should be done when all is still hot.

The naphta is now oversaturated and very hot, by cooling, dmt xtals should appear at room temperature.
Put the hot oversaturated naphta in a dish, cover it with plastic film (no evaporation) and let it sit at room temp. After only 30 min you should observe xtal formation, wait 3 hours or more until xtals stop growing. You can now pour the naphta out from the dish letting crystals dry.
It's better to reuse the saturated naphta for next pulls. Do pulls until there is no more xtals forming at room temp. Using 1L of naphta is ok but for 100g of bark, may be you can use less.
Once you collect a maximum of xtals, keep the naphta and let evaporate (or freeze precipitation). You should obtain an oily orange/brown goo which is nmt and other compound like beta-carboline.

I have check quality of dmt by doing fumarate: from 500mg of xtal, I obtain 630mg of fumarate. I guess quality of crystal are over 90%


So for my last extraction, with 100g of bark I obtain:
1.61g of dmt
1.22g of nmt


I know it's a very high yield
Does somebody can confirm that if I can obtain fumarate, It cannot be anything else than dmt?


Testings:
I have tested full spectrum, and xtals, both are definitely psychoactives but still no breaktrough
I only use a classic VG and my vaping technique is not good, I have to buy a GVG.
Waiting for my GVG to go further in my experiments


Thank you very much to all of you for all advices found over this forum

Have you checked the trees you've stripped bark from?

Are they still alive and in good health?

all my last results are coming from one tree alive and in good health
trunk was may be 25cm diam
I recently took some bark on a broken tree (very old one). bark is almost red
I have to make another extraction to check if old trees are better.

one thing I think also is: if you collect bark after some rainy days, yield is lower.
rain should draining dmt out from bark. Now when I collect bark I'm trying to do it on sunny and dry days

cool to see someone working with simplex.. your the only person I've seen working with it other than its mention in the literature - have you tried extracting from phyllodes? if the bark is yielding i can almost guarantee the phyllodes will (just in smaller amounts)
also have you tested the presumed nmt extract to confirm it is just nmt (or void of dmt)?

I didn't try with phyllodes because quantity of phyllodes needed is very important and can take a lot of space. I've tried to burn some phyllodes and smelling was ok.

my last extraction give me:

room temperature precipitation : 1610mg of white crystals, no particular smell.

freeze precipitation : 460mg of very sticky goo (cream color)

naphta evaporation : 760mg of oily brown goo with strong smell of dmt

last pull with xylène: 200mg of oily white goo smelling ... plant(?).


xtals: by vaping same taste as spice and psychoactive, can be change in fumarate
goo: same taste as spice, and psychoactive

goo from xylène: horrible taste, no effect, IMO only fat of the plant


I still cannot make the difference between xtals and goo as my vaping tek is not optimal at all.

here are some pictures of my extraction

Nice pictures what a lovely colour it produces.
Do the crystals crash out at room temp without further cooling? What is the room temp where you are?

thank you DreaMTripper

yes, all crystals crashed out at room temp
I let it sit overnight in my garage minimum temp 16-18°C during the night.

no way for me to obtain that kind of crystals with freeze precipitation
at -20°C, something happen with other compounds (NMT & beta-carboline), the DMT melt with them and doesn't crystallize. the result is a clear-yellow goo.
IMO, NMT/DMT ratio is too important (too much NMT) for DMT to crystallize at T° below 0°C

Ok interesting information thanks The extract looks delicious I imagine it would be a quick blast off vaping a dose.

What country do simplex grow in and what is their ideal natural environment?

still no breakthrough ,I only have classic VG, waiting for some money to buy a GVG

a simplex grows in south pacific island, new caledonia, vanuatu and fidji may be in australia (to be confirmed)
It grows on the beaches in a sandy soil not too much exposed to wind

Ok cheers, have you thought about harvesting phyllodes as a less harmful and more sustainable way?
If you read nens' last but one post in the acacia info thread he mentions harvesting bark is harmful long term to the tree.

not sure I understand what you mean by "the quantity of phyllodes here is very important".... the phyllodes should still contain dmt in reasonable amounts (as is the case with the majority of dmt containing acacias) and I think safe harvesting should trump convenient harvesting in any scenario - not that using phyllodes is any less convenient or hard to store anyways.. just prune a few branches and then take an hour or so to pick the phyllodes off the stems.. dry them, grind them, and then store them. the tree will appreciate it. if everybody took trunk bark you wouldn't have many trees around left to use

..thank you for this interesting report..i would still suggest branches for sustainably ..
i hope it is abundant where you are..
A. simplex (simplicifolia) was also reported small amounts 1,2,3,4 MTHBC and Formyltryptamine (properties unknown) ..personally i think trying to separate alkaloids from a plant is missing something ..wholeness..

as many species have good phyllode content it would be good to get data on this more plant friendly potential source ..

I recently explore a bit more my area and found some trees more discreet.
A month ago, I took some phyllodes with intention to make an extraction. I read again poupat(1976) report and found that Formyltryptamine was present in phyllodes. I tried to find something about this molecule but found nothing, so I abandon the idea.

Nen, what do you think about Formyltryptamine? bioassay seems to be risky for me, may be there are some nexians ready for that kind of experience, but for sure, I'm not of those ones (not yet?)

I think next week I will collect some phyllodes and make two extractions, 1 with xylene for a full spectrum extract, 1 with naphta for dmt yield.

Can I still use thick-light tek with phyllodes?
Defat has to be done as phyllodes contain manyu fats correct?
Any special caution using phyllodes as I'm used to work with bark?

..Formyltryptamine was bioassayed as a trace amount in combination with other tryptamines in a sample of A. mucronata last year, with no issues...but it has not been bioassayed on it's own, or above the approx 2mg level..
it was only found as a trace in A. simplex..

the thick-light method seems to be an effective one..there are not really any 'fats' in acacia phyllodes..the Acacia Extraction Workspace has a few phyllode methods..

.

Have you heard of any new bioassays of a higher dose recently? Is it correct that the molecular structure doesnt realy lend itself to being active?

Phyllodes should be well active!

Also, with Simplex, they grow by the sea and so often the roots are poking out into the shore, toward the shore. So you could take some root and root bark, without adversely effecting the tree.

Hi there,

Thank you for the simplex extraction.
I'm trying to work with it too.
I've done the Cyb's hybrid salt tek (ATB), with a mini AB before crystallizing for cleaning.
The first 3 pulls were cleaned, the last 3 weren't.
Crystallizyng has been done at freezer temp.
I ended with xtals, seems very clean.

The product is definitelly psychoactive too, but i'don't know if there is only dmt or the combo, cause everything nicelly precipitated at freeze T°.

Let me know if you have done further research on it.

Cheers.

Hi There,

According to some research and a couple of article on the internet (wiki, nexus and more)
In the tree there are DMT, NMT, and other alkaloids like beta carbolines

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acacia_simplex

The Nexus say it's an harmane like alkaloid

https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Acacia_simplicifolia

Is the harmane alkaloid 2-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-β-carboline an MAOI ? Is it extracted during a classic AB extraction of DMT ?

Does it have medicinal effect that can be used ? (same as harmane alkaloid ?)

Cheers

Hello guys.
Thank for this tek.
I tried this with acacia simplex, I've boiled with some hydrochloric acid and not white vinegar, but I dont have any xtals at room temp (I live in new caledonia) room temp is maybe 24 degrees.
Do you think its enough low to do xtals ?
Is Someone live in New caledonia?
Maybe hydrochloric acid is to much powerful.
5 out 6 extractions, only nmt after evaporate the naphtha.


Édit: I tried to put into the fridge at 10 degrees overnight. Nothing inside this morning. I will try to freeze it.