This is the first attempt at a extraction on a 12'' SP cutting.

Just wanna sum up the Tek and get some tips/advice before attempting.
Doing a Q2121/69ron Dry Tek collaboration.
(Mastered the Q2121 Tek for DMT so desired consistency is known)

1. Discard outer skin and inner core of the cutting, make tea, reduce, dry = powder.

2. Mix powder + vinegar/water, let sit for a few hours, stirring occasionally.

2a. De-fat with xylene.

3. Mix Lime to desired consistency, let sit over night. Add water next day if needed.

4 Pull with Xylene, dry.

5. Dissolve product in HLC/water, wash with acetone.

6. Dry, ingest.

Would de-fatting be pointless due to step 5 or would it be a good add on?

Any advice would be appreciated.

I have never seen a dry tek with cactus like this, so I'm not sure how it'll go. It's not to say it's not out there, I just haven't seen it.

I did not defat with my cactus, and have had no issues, but it probably wouldn't hurt.


Don't throw out the inner core!! There's as much as 1/3 of the total alkaloids of the plant in there. It's like taking mescaline and throwing it out the window!

The outer waxy skin is ok to throw out, though. Just to be sure, I usually soak the skins over night or boil them up real quick. There's usually a bit of green stuck to them, so there's got to be some goodies on them, too. That may be going a bit too far for most folks, though.

OK, will keep the inner core! washing/de-fatting should most defiantly be done though.

SWIM watched a great video on steaming the skin slices, and very clean easy outer waxy layer removal.

The 69ron Tek goes right to a base, and SWIM has done STB as well as A/B on MHRB(nearly fat-less). Great results with the A/B. Figured the pre acid soak would help the base phase or at least not hurt assuming cacti will be pretty fatty.

Also it would need to be acidic to de-fat for step 2, right?. The Mesc acetate would stay in the aqueous mush and the fats/oils etc would go to the solvent. Then basify and go on with Tek, washing again with acetone. No chemist here, but on the right track.

Will document Tek and post results.

Also after steaming sliced pieces and removing skin will puree into a sludge which will be froze and thawed a few times before turning into powder.

If you make a tea and then dry that, you probably wont end up with a powder but a sticky resinous paste. It is also not necessary at all to defat cacti extracts, does virtually nothing. Skip the vinegar/xylene defat and just add the lime and alittle water to the paste, then you can pull that with xylene soak for a few hours 3X. Other than that looks good.

Make sure your acetone is anhydrous or it can dissolve mescaline, reducing your yeild.

Thanks Kash. Will update the post with results.

plux's "acetone bomb" is a good way to clean the mescaline after the HCl water drying off step. You'll redissolve the extract in a little bit of water, ad about 4 times that volume of acetone. Solid particulates drop out. Dry the acetone, and you'll have nice clear-amber colored mescaline. It doesn't separate a ton of the non-mesc alkaloids (which I actually like), but it does seem to remove some unwanted junk.

If this was what the OP was referring to, by using acetone, then making it anhydrous would be a circular step!

I like mescaline extractions because they seem so much more open to different methods. It's almost an art.

Mr. P, or Kush..

Anhydrous? will it say this on the acetone can? can it be cleaned with anything other than acetone? or should you use regular acetone if you can't find anhydrous.

Anhydrous means 'without water'. If you have 95% acetone, for example, the remaining 5% will be water, which can dissolve mescaline. That means that washing impure product with acetone can lead to some of the mescaline being dissolved and washed away, too.

Acetone can be made anhydrous using magnesium sulfate (epsom salts) that has been dried in the oven.

Anhydrous acetone is made by mixing it well with dry epsom salt (mgso4). Dry epsom salt is made by microwaving the salt for 4 minutes on high.

Of course filter out the mgso4 after mixing it with acetone for a few minutes. Cheers.

Great, read a post where it said to after baking in oven at 400 for 1-2 hours or microwaving for 4 minutes it is best to grind salt to a fine powder before adding to the solvent. This does make sense as it would give more surface area to get the job done, but assuming there is a much higher risk of salts remaining in the solvent during separation. Any suggestions on crushing or leaving salts whole?

Also, assuming; The more salts = whole pieces. Less salts = powder. personal preference?

400*f for 1-2 hours? where'd you read that?

ps- 12" is a very tiny amount of cacti to do extraction work with!
i rec'd tea if all you have to work with is 12"

I'd like to start out small and get it right before going big. This is 12'' reduced. Not filtered. Going to throw it in the freezer for the night. Tomorrow Going thaw and finish the drying, until it's only moist. Then will base and pull. If I end up with one dose I will be happy. Shooting for 400mg after acetone bombed. I'll have to weigh my moist product before i base to be able to compare.

Boiling Point of Mesc is 356f

400f for 2 hours will probably degrade your product.

And then there's the picture,

Where's the tea?

So I'm trying to figure this out.

You sliced and pureed the cactus, then froze, then boiled down to sludge?

Now your going to freeze again. Thaw and then dry the sludge out.

And after all that your going to A/B the paste?

He meant 400 degrees for the mgso4, but its really just quicker to microwave it same exact effect, def crush it up more surface area. I hear ya dg, but if its decent quality 12'' cacti, it is worth extracting one could easily get .5-1g pure. If it is the standard garbage pachanoi clone, all the work will be wasted though. What kind of cacti is it even Binary Drool?

I believe San Pedro Trichocereus Pachanoi.

sludge is frozen, hoping it ruptured some of the cell walls and what not that may not have been effected during reduction. Added some vinegar to the reduction process. next is to base and pull. will post results.

1. You do not really need to discard the outer skin if you are extracting - it is a waste of time and it is only useful if you're making a tea/eating as is. Also, you will not end up with a dry powder as others said.

2. As it follows by 1, just do not fully evap and you won;t have anything to re-dissolve. You can also use vinegar in step 1 while you make the tea.

2a. As others again said, no need to defat.

3. What do you mean by "desired consistency"?

4. How do you plan to pull with xylene out of your "desired consistency lime/reduced cactus tea? It might get trickier than you think. Give it some extra thought. Also, no need to evap xylene. Evaporating xylene will literally at least a few weeks if not months. No need to wait that long, go straight to salt stuff out of xylene with your HCl.

Doing the above you not only get the mescaline out as hydrochloride salt, you also leave the fats behind (hence no need to do a defat as you planned above)

I wish you all the best and good luck with your extraction, even though I would personally go for a tried and tested tek + reputable material rather than stitching around steps from different teks for your first run. Mescaline extraction is not as easy as dmt extraction and if you start introducing all these deviations and uncertainties things will not go as well as expected, regardless of how well you've thought the process. Nail your technique down with a tek, then move to fooling around and testing the limits. For this I predict that your yield will be either close to 0%, or nothing to rave about in terms of aesthetics/yield/activity, but please be my guest and feel free to prove me wrong!

Infundibulum, I've evaped ~300ml xylene in a few hours but wow.. I can't believe i didn't even think of salting right from the xylene.. Thanks so much, what a time saver. I did add vinegar to my reduction/tea step. I will post some more pics later of what i meant by 'consistency' and how I will be pulling. I hope I prove you wrong!

Evaporating 300ml of xylene in a few hours is a true record, considering mine as well as other member's experiences. Would you like to share your method and maybe your ambient temperature?

More surface area the better. I use a 13'' x 9'' pyrex baking dish. hydro farm heat mat underneath and set up a hair dryer on medium near an open window. works great. don't want the hair dryer too hot, but hot enough to heat the solvent and blowing hard enough to move it around like crazy. I've noticed the more movement the quicker it goes. This is only from evaping for DMT, but I do use xylene as well as nap for that work. last pulls are xylene. and yes, it takes longer than naphtha but it's worth the extra hour or so in the end.

In any event, Basing is done. Just waiting a few hours before pulling. Left the camera up at the other house so I dont have pics now. will post pics later.