Hi

I would be forever grateful if anyone interested would check through this and give suggestions or confirmation on things..

It is adapted from (or my understanding of) "QT's DMT Extraction for Students"
http://www.dmtextraction...mimosa1dmtextraction.htm (though jars labelled differently) and things I've read here.. so this is what my understanding of how it can be done so far..


Inventory:

(larger amounts of the substances, but this is for one extraction from 30g bark powder)

Gloves, mask, glasses
30g Mimosa hostilis bark powder
345ml Distilled water - 345ml
3 Jars (thick glass, with lids.. for all substances)
pH papers
pipette (plastic.. for the acid)
3ml Hydrochloric acid
measuring jug (glass.. for solvent, and water)
turkey baster (plastic.. for removing solvent from separations, and acidified water)
stirrer (glass.. for acid+bark+water, lye+water, acid+water)
ceramic bowl (.. for hot water to heat up the jars)
thermometer (don't know which kind (plastic/metal/glass).. for solvent, and acid+bark+water)
cotton wool
funnel (plastic.. for acid+bark+water)
coffee filters
600ml Solvent and 500ml to test (Ronnsonol lighter fluid)
5g Lye
Vinegar to neutralise lye spills
dish (glass.. for testing solvent and evaporating final solution)
razor



Steps

0. test solvent for impurities - leave 500ml (of the same brand to be used) out in a glass dish with no lid until it evaporates. If there is residue, try a different brand.

1. Add to a jar: 250ml water (the tek said 500ml, then half isn't used), hydrochloric acid (aprx 1ml) until it is pH 2, and then 30g of Bark
Stir

2. Boil some water (enough to cover the bottom inch of the jar) and put in a large ceramic bowl.
Put jar in bowl with it's lid off
check temperature of jar's contents, and add hot/cold water to a temperature of 50'C for 25mins.

(leave for 24 hours, shaking occasionally)

3. pour the solution through a funnel blocked up with cotton wool
keep the liquid in JAR A, and the residue in another

4. Repeat steps 1-3 with the residue, leaving for 7 days instead of the 24hrs.

5. Repeat steps 1-3 with the residue, leaving for 7 days instead of the 24hrs, and using a coffee filter instead of cotton wool

6. Add 100ml of solvent to JAR A.
shake for 20mins

(wait for it to separate into 2 distinct layers.. between 24 and 48 hrs)

7. Remove the top layer (orange/pink) with a turkey baster and discard

8. In JAR B, warm 100ml of the solvent like in step 2.. for ??? minutes, at ??? temperature.
Then add JAR B's contents to JAR A

9. In JAR C, add 95ml of water, and slowly add Lye (apr 5g) intill it is ph 11.
Add small amounts of this to JAR A, slowly and stirring, until JAR A's pH is between 9 and 11.
(Solution should be grey, then become black and will heat up)

(leave for 24 hours to separate)

10. Remove the top layer (orange/pink) with a turkey baster and discard

11. Repeat steps 8 (not 9) and 10, two times with JAR A.

12. Pour on a dish, and leave to evaporate (up to a week)

13. Scrape up the residue with a razor and that is DMT!
(aprox 5 doses (275mg) from the bark (30g) )



Questions..

1) Is the inventory (incl the choice of glass/plastics) ok?
2) Is a pH meter required, rather than pH papers? (with the substance in step 9 being coloured)
3) is getting the solvent from the cans simple?
4) Does the spongey inlay that comes with the lids on the jars need to be removed?

5) Is there something that should be done differently in the steps?
6) is it actually possible to collect the residue in step 3 with it being mixed into all the cotton wool?
7) when leaving the solution for a while (to separate, or for the acid to react with the bark). should the lid be on of off?
8.) in steps 7 and 10, can the separation be done sufficiently with a turkey baster, or should I be using a ziplock bag/separatory funnel?
9) is heating in a bowl of hot water enough for step 2 (to make it 50'C) or do I need it on the stove in a double boiler?
10) having read that it has to be the bowl for step 8, to what temperature and for how long should solvent be warmed in step 8?
11) are there any maximum time delays between the steps.. can the process be left for a few days or a week if needed?

12) I've read to use vinegar incase of lye spills.. do I need anything for solvent or acid spills?
13) will there be strong smells or vapours that could be a problem with doing it in a small appartment? (it can be kept well ventilated (has outside door and windows) for times when doing things with it, but not overnight)
14) could it explode!?! (thinking about step 9)
15) what are the dangers of using the final substance if something was done wrong in this extraction?




Thanks

wow.. that looks so much easier! :o

wow

thank yoU!

edit:
is it worth doing the "further extraction" bit? .. it seems complicated again with all that
if I cant find lime, is there an alternative?

this bit: https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Q21Q21's_Vinegar/Lime_A/B_Extraction_Tek#Procedure_For_Further_Extraction_.2F_Food_Safe

thanks.. have found a source for lime now

I'm not sure how I'd ended up on the wiki.. I must have clicked something after following your link.. yup, it all looks good... particularly tek 1

thank you, you've been a great help

Shit thats a lot of questions but i'll answer the important ones.

7. when separating leave the lid off. when boiling the bark its personal choice
8. Use a sep funnel if you can get one, they are worth their weight in gold. Ziplock bags will melt all over you dont do it.
9. Don't heat solvents on the stove top. Boil a pot of water. Remove it form the stove/kitchen then stick your vessel in that to heat it.
10. until its the right temp
11. DMT freebase is a little sensitive, so once you've added the base you will want to work it all up in 24hrs or idealy just a few hours. Don't leave it for weeks then complain its gone to shit lol.
12. use a bicarb soda solution to neutralise acids. wipe up solvents with paper towel and leave the area to vent for a while.
13. strongest odors will come from the hot solvent so be smart. get the time and location right
14. If you add the lye too fast it will get superheated and the jar will crack. fuck jars use HDPE plastic bottles or lab glass beakers. google hdpe if you dont know the logo.

REMEMBER TO USE GLOVES AND GOGGLES AT ALL TIMES. DONT BLIND YOURSELF. THIS IS SERIOUS SHIT ALSO, READ MORE

15. You will need to do a final pH11 sodium carbonate wash (10% by volume of your naptha) to get rid of trace NaOH, you dont want to smoke that crap.

thanks. I will refer to that when I attempt a high yield extraction .. but for now I will try the Q21Q21 tek. Seems easier for now, and no lye or heating solvents.


In q21q21's tek 1..

it only mentions one pull. Is that all that is needed?

it seems to avoid needing a separatory funnel/ziplock setup by using a turkey baster to get the bottom layer. Is it tricky to get the bottom layer? .. isn't it easier to get the top out instead, leaving the vinegar water?

When you extract you only get a percentage of whats there, so by separating your naptha volume into 3 lots you actually extract more so its always a good idea to do 3 small ones rather than one large one. Keep in mind all these 'teks' are really only two different things, A/B or STB. With a little research and experience you can adapt them easily. If you have a sep funnel use it/or buy one if possible. Otherwise decant the liquid into a tall thin vessel and use the baster to separate the layers, remove whatever is easier for you as long as you understand which layer to keep.

Oh and no matter what 'tek' you follow if you are using naptha/shellite you will want to heat it up to around 50c for good yields. Even if it isn't mentioned in your little checklist. Its just a fact that spice is way more soluble in warm/hot naptha..

thanks

that seems clear to me, but just to check..
would this mean that instead of putting 75ml into the entire solution, stirring and then collecting,
I put 25ml in to the entire solution, stir then collect.. and repeat twice?

.. in q21q21 tek 1, would that be the d-Limonene/Xylene?


this has all excited me at how soon it could be happening.. with my initial tek it would have taken up to 40 days.

Yeap instead of 1x75ml use 3x25ml. If you're going to be evaporating naphtha down with a fan and freeze precipitating another 25ml wouldn't hurt. If you're using d-limo/xylene you don't need to heat it. Only shellite/naphtha. Downside is xylene reaks and the dmt fumarate isn't smokeable it needs to be freebased.

so it's funerate if it's made with xylene.. same with d-limo?

is there any other preference between xylene and d-limo other than the smell?


from the tek, to freebase the liquid I've made...
1. heat on a spoon with a flame underneath until it becomes a goo
2. collecting the goo and put it in a crackpipe
3. and it's smoked by heating under the pipe with a flame

it sounds like it's the same thing happening in 1 and 3.. is the difference that it's not allowed to burn in 1 .. stopped as soon as it's a goo? .. couldnt 1 and 3 be done in one session in the pipe.. inhaling once it's a goo?



sorry it's so many questions.. I just know that the one I dont ask will be the one that cause explosions/blindness/worry >.<

Whoops sorry got mixed up, too many similar teks. Forget xylene and limonene and fumarates just do an acid/base and extract with naptha. It doesn't need to be complicated, you only want the freebase. That 'freebasing' step you quoted will only result in shit. Extract some nice spice and make some changa, no crack pipes!! https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m..._DMT_Handbook_201208.pdf The DMT Handbook will give you a good overall idea of whats happening in each step, you'll start to see how all the teks are the same shit with different names and slightly different volumes. And yes the acacia he uses is treated the same as mhrb.

have decided to go for the tek 2.. so will end up with crystals

I've got everything in, just need to get a lift to pick up the lime, and either get a pipe or make one

I have a water bong, but no pipes or things to attach to it

it's a similar shape to this:

.. I am wondering if using the "arm" of the pipe as the pipe.. and seating the crystals in the bottom of the arm, and heating underneath.. but suspect that bong glass wont transfer the heat

it's started :o


I've mixed 100g bark with 100ml vinegar, and 100ml near boiled water

has sat for an hour

about to add the lime..

..........

how long should I leave it for after adding lime, before adding naptha?


when I add naptha.. how long should I leave it for before I drain it off?
(I've read of people leaving it overnight.. but also that naptha evaporates quick.. does the mixture stop that?)

.......


I'm following this guide but dont see timings for this.. https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&m=142240#post142240

thanks Jimm

sandwiching = mixing with weed/tobacco and smoking like a regular bong?

all done

100g bark -> 310mg crystals

the stages looked the same as in the pics in the tek.. I did 4 pulls on it, and freezer for 6 hrs

not as much as I'd hoped for, but glad to have my first every DMT doses ready :oooooo


thanks to everyone who helped

dont forgot to let us know how the journey goes...

Yeah yields will improve once you get the hang of it and spend more time processing the bark, ie longer acid soak/boil, longer time evaping down and in the freezer.

gonna do it in an hour..

last min question.. what is a good BIG dose (enough to break through for sure) for smoking it through a water bong, mixed with weed?

was thinking 70 or 80mg?

wowowowowowow

that was.. I cant explain in less than 1000000000 words right now.. but I will summarise when I can

after doing it for the first time..I feel like I also did it a few times before, but millions of years ago

thanks for being part of the patterns that brought it back again this time

I should add..

before taking it.. I went to the local supermarket to see if I could get anything to make a pipe.. the machine or something could be adapted into a crackpipe.

I tried 70mg from a pipe made out of a cafeteria... reason being that I knew it transferred heat well, and seemed to be the perfect arrangement to my understanding of it. inner contraption removed, leaving a lid, a whole in the top, and one at the spout (sealed up unto inhalation). crystals in the bottom, heated but not burnt, watched them evaporate and when done I then opened the two hole and inhaled it all through one. i suspect it might be if dmt stops being active if left as vapour for too long? .. inhaled during 6-10 seconds after and held for a minute

nothing happened.. I checked my sensation and orientation and it had changed, but only like having just held my breathe for a minute

my friend then tried 70mg through my regular water bong, with a layer of weed under and above.. and went went fully into it

I left it 80mins incase I had a trace of it that gave me tolerance, then tried by the method he used and it was just infinate