Hey all just scratching my head over this mini a/b situation
I haved looked for posts about it and find very vague and different scenarios (probably there but haven't found them)

Anywho my question is , 150ml saturated naptha would = 300ml aqaurious solution needed with vinager?

Just seeing if there's a formular for working out how ratio between saturated naptha and solution comes about, this figure is what I've read and come to know but now have heard differently and confused I know the amount of DMT in the NPS varies but is having to much solution + vinager bad ? I know too little is baf

Also has anyone heard of all the DMT getting pulled out of ACRB in 2 pulls and further pulls only yeilds a large amount of NMT or other alkaloids

Roughly ... I would say 1ml of 10% acetic acid can dissolve about 200-300mg of dmt freebase. 1g of dmt freebase can be dissolved in about 30ml of naptha. If you have 150ml of saturated naptha, you have about 5g of dmt. For that you need about 17ml of water.

Increasing the water volume is not bad, it increases the contact surface with non-poar. Using too much water is not good though, dmt freebase is slightly soluble in water, so there can be some losses. I usually use 1:3 ratio (water:non-polar)

Dmt freebase goes very readily from non-polar to water. One pull is enough. Heat it up to about 70C and mix thoroughly for few minutes.

When you say one pull is enough is that pull the adding the 150ml saturated NPS to the acidic solution once? Thanks for the input

Mini-A/B has two phases. First phase is conversion of the dmt freebase to its salt form. Second is conversion back to freebase from its salt form.

I was talking about first phase. One pull (non-polar=>water) is enough here
For second phase (water=>non-polar) there are multiple pulls usually necessary.

Awesome cheers for that mate

If you don't mind another quick one for ACRB , can't you tell if goo is saturated with DMT, NMT, plant fats oils? Is there a visual way to determine the quality eg . One has had yellow goo , and one has had a beige colour goo also redish goo and even with evaping I had bright yellow (less sticky) goo that made me vomit and have bad trip

I find I have a very bad experience with plant fats, or NMT usually if I have the extract from first 2 pulls I'm ok the rest for me is bad which sucks cause I wanted everything from the bark

Sorry, I have experience just with MHRB. I would suggest going this way, it might be much easier.

For ACRB, if you have problems with impurities, you can try to avoid heat when pulling. Both for initial extraction and mini-A/B. But then it might be difficult to cope with emulsion.
After mini-A/B, if not pure enough, you can continue with heptane/naptha re-x.

Would it be better to do the initial pulls cold and mini a/b pulls hot in that case ? I find re X with naptha loses over 1/2 of the product which on the rare case I have a reaction to it it's just not worth losing that goo , maybe there is a minor thing wrong I'm doing with my initial pulls.

Do them cold both if you don't have to use heat because of emulsion. Any heat means more impurities. But if you have to use it, you have to

I thought heat made the NPS better for more DMT to be extracted? Like when a Tek says (can do Tek cold but yeilds affected) ?

Never have an emulsion being I gently roll the mix 60 - 120 seconds not violently shaken like a glow stick at a rave party haha 😂

Yes, heat ensures more to be extracted, but the same is true for impurities. If you use mini-A/B for purification, this plays an important role.

I like shaking without limitations, because then I am sure the most alkaloids are transferred within minimum of time.

So pulls warm to get max yeild
Then mini a/b with cold naptha

With shaking can the first 2pulls be gently done
Then further ones shaken more violently

By cold I mean room temp

higher temp => more yield, more impurities
more shaking and/or shaking longer => more yield, more impurities

with mini-A/B at B stage, I use vigorous shaking with high temp (70C). Then separate non-polar and let to cool down, so the coloration changes (yellow=>clear). Once satisfied with the color, I pour it off to another vessel and place to freezer.
In fact this is re-x joined with mini-A/B

It is much better to go through the high temp and then cool down than to just pull with lower temp non-polar directly. The non-polar will be more saturated this way.