all the glassy stuff is spice and those are some nice clean looking crystals for your first time congrats and enjoy

Question! I was looking at this tek: "New/revised practical A/B ~near perfect extraction method~" http://www.dmt-nexus.me/...BB2/viewtopic.php?t=2850 but there is a question about quantity! please help! 1 pound (approx 500g) of MHRB in the UK is like £70+ ($140)!! unless swim is looking in the wrong places! if this tek was used with say, 100g or 250g - i assume swim would need to reduce the amounts of everything by 50% or 80%. Going by this how much spice would one potentially be left with? enough for...? £70 is a lot to spend - especially if it didn't work (read: it was cocked up). thx.

If the MHRB is of correct quality you may expect a minimum of 0.5% to a max of 1+% For 100 g you may obtain at least 500 mg which is already a good 10-15 trips. Of course, if you push things as far as possible and if the bark is not too bad you may expect twice that amount.

[quote:e7ce26c80f="breakMYhead"]Question! if this tek was used with say, 100g or 250g - i assume swim would need to reduce the amounts of everything by 50% or 80%. Going by this how much spice would one potentially be left with? enough for...? £70 is a lot to spend - especially if it didn't work (read: it was cocked up). thx.[/quote:e7ce26c80f] 454g is one pound. the amounts used are directly proportional to the amount of bark, so use half the amounts if using half the bark, etc. Life is all about chances, sometimes the best things happen when you take them

excellent thatnks guys!

Okay. I just finished reading through this thread. A lot of good questions, and a lot of helpful replies. Also a lot of questions that were asked over and over again by various people who obviously hadn't read the thread or done much research at all . I have a question that I don't think has come up in this thread, and I have not been able to find information pertaining to this using the search feature. Elfspice's Tek recommends using isopropanol for recrystalization. To me this sounds like it would produce a much cleaner end product than naptha recristalization. First the naptha would be evaporated and then isopropanol added. Why is this procedure not used/discussed by members of this forum? Is there a solubility issue that causes decreased yields when using isopropanol instead of naptha for recrystalization? All info greatly appreciated. EDIT: Also, is non-pure IPA diluted with water? If so (or if it's not another alcohol), does this affect the recrystalisation process? Thanks again.

Hey, I have been browsing these forums for a few days now and I so with I would have found yall sooner.... SWIM hastily went with QT's tek from erowid and after reading through this site a few days into the process he was horrified but tales of her tek killing people spice he followed her instructions basically to the T and now before going ANY father he is requesting I post for input on the next logical steps on how to migrat the A/B to VM&P to NaOH to VM&P to evap into a more sutiable Freeze Precip or whatever would be the best method of completion/salvage for this operation... I know this post is very newb but that about sums the 2 of us up. he then deffated 3 times with room temp naptha not sure if this had any affect as so many diff tecks out there and and had seen yours tell it was 2 late. Then he added just enough NaOH to the mix to bring the 1/2 pint level to an almost even 1 pint at about 10-11 PH. at this point the solution thinkened and He was left with a very think Very Grey/smoke colored Almost gel. from this point he let it sit and headed to the forums... after some reading horror stories about QT's tek and about people losing TONs of spice to PH spikes and all kinds of nasty variables he got scared as it hard to get spice for him and he doesnt want to lose his work. In Jar C he currently has VM&p Naptha in a seperate container and exactly 1 pint of slowly thinning and darkinging Grey/Darkgreen/black Gew in Jar B... HE wants to know what your input is as to the next most logical step for completion. as he is worried to progress with QT's fearing future damage is it is damaged... He, being a total newb is just looking for someone to walk him trough it in laymans english with steps from the greygreen gew to nice spice IN Jar D He also has another 50g MHRB in a seperate A/B that has set for the first 24hours with nothing more then that done to the plant material... just soaking Any info you could give me to relay to him would be so appreciated I know this is a rather newb post, but thats what we both are to this and need the experience of someone who has first hand success... TY much for you time and understand and any help you can give I have read this entire thread and while it answer most of my questions I would still Love any assistance yall could give me before proceeding TY in advance for you time and patientce

After evaping we were left with basically nothing which tells my friend that its all still locked into the dark grey sludge.... since he has 0 amonia or freezer space he is looking for the most reliable way to go from the grey sludge with a ph of around 12 into the evap and attain some healty chrystals. also is it possible to get the grey color and still have done something wrong? He is under the impression that the grey color is the start of the conversion and he is on somewhat of the right track any help would be swell

okay. swim attempted rainbowserpents tek. http://www.dmt-nexus.me/...BB2/viewtopic.php?t=2850 swim says most of it went okay... though when they added the NaOH it didn't really seem to change colour or anything. anyhoo swim says after about 36 hours in the freezer that they are looking at something like this: [img:b7648ad151]http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/2301/dsc00077zm3.th.jpg[/img:b7648ad151] [img:b7648ad151]http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/2672/dsc00076wp3.th.jpg[/img:b7648ad151] there appears to be lots of small 'snow' like crystals. also though where the glass container was originally put in the freezer it was not quite level, so where the solvent sat you can see there is like a white film/layer on the bottom of the dish (top half on these piccy's). is that spice to be scraped? swim says he put it back in the freezer and is gonna leave it another 24 hours before pouring off the solvent.

after pouring off the solvent, swim says it looked exactly the same as this. any good? [img:048f021044]http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/4945/dscn1327uh5.th.jpg[/img:048f021044]

^that looks pretty pure. what kind of a yield did you get?

Question: Swim found mention of it somewhere but cant seem to find it again. Swim understands, add lye to water, do not add water to lye. What Swim is not sure about is,

1. Do you add the powdered bark to the lye water or do you add the lye water to the powdered bark?
2. Can you just add the water to the bark and then add the lye to the bark water?
3. Do you get the "black color" when adding the lye to the water, or is that only when the bark is in it?

yay new forum

what does swim mean?!?!?!?!?

I believe I've read through most of this thread. Also, I've done a search. I don't believe SWIM's problem has been discussed in depth. Please excuse me if I missed something.

SWIM followed Noman's tek and did a freeze precip. His problem is collecting the spice from the jar. There still seems to be so much stuck to the sides and bottom. It seems like it's frosted onto the side of the glass. Maybe he needs a better spatula. On his next precip he plans on using a more shallow collection jar(to help reach the bottom and so there are less sides to worry about). SWIM thinks his low yield may be partially do to not being able to collect all of this spice. Perhaps an evaporation then recrystalization would be a good route.

Does anyone have any tips? We'll appreciate any advice.

-Kao

Just let the jars dry completely after you've scraped them and then swish a little warm naptha around in them to get the last of it.
Then evap.

Pyrex coffee pots (10 - 12 cup size, with handy, removable lid) can be easily stuck in the freezer, then poured from, evaported from, and scraped clean with razor blades.

so I just did my first extraction... few questions/comments :



Some teks call for 1g of lye per 15 of water.. I used 2l of water, which would mean 133gs of lye. When 100gs were in, ph was already over 14... When I added the powdered mimosa, it immediately turned black, which means ph was for sure high enough.. So how comes these teks out there call for so much lye? Dont their waters get high ph before that, like mine (maybe me using distilled water made a difference)? isnt all that lye unnecessary, because all that matters is ph over 13?


part of my naphta I evaporated, part I freeze precipitated, to see the difference. In the freeze precip, some nice looking white crystals formed in the side of the glass.. I took it out of the freezer, quickly poured out the naphta and put the container to evaporate. On the sides, as I said, the white crystals were nice. On the bottom, though, it stayed transparent/oily. I left it to dry for a whole day and it didnt change, the white ones were easy to remove, and stayed dry small crystal formation. When I scraped the bottom, it was some yellow oily substance which I later put together on the side of a plate to evaporate some more. It formed some medium quality yellow bit oily crystal. Is there a reason why on the bottom its different than on the sides? Am I doing something wrong?

as for the evaporation, some crystally formations appeared spread over the baking pan.. It was a pain in the ass to scratch from all that surface area though.. What is the best technique/tool for doing that? I was using a scalpel, but the ´head´ was too small I think, so it didnt scratch much at once.. Also in the evap dish, there was a part of oily yellow residue that after couple of days still was there, didnt evaporate. Is there anything wrong? Should I heat up some naphta, throw it there and suck up the naphta into a container to the freezer? but how can I know amount of naphta, since all recrystalization teks talk about amount of naphta per g of dmt, but I have no idea how much there would be there in that oily part?

A straight to base tek uses a lot of lye - well over that required to reach pH 14 - because the lye is not just to make the alks soluable in NP and not water, the lye is breaking down the bark, replacing that first step of an A/B.

Ok
So I'm doing an A/B extraction
Got DMT solubilized in an HCl water mixture of pH 2.
I basify this and then put some non-polar solvent into the mix..
The non-polar layer after extracting was yellow (I heated the naphtha)

SO I decided to do a de-fat to this...this time using distilled white vinegar.
I put the vinegar into the non-polar and the non-polar immediately goes from yellow to a opaque whitish layer

my only question is...is this normal?
for some reason I have this bad feeling in the pit of my stomach that this is somehow not right
Though I can't see how it could have gotten screwed up
I'm just wanting some kind of second opinion I guess to ease my soul..