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official extraction help thread Options
 
blue.magic
#2921 Posted : 10/11/2018 8:13:33 PM

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PrIsingSun wrote:
okay, can i freeze precepitate also with the milky layer or do i have to have a clear naphta solution for this?


Yes you can and this is sometimes advised.

Even better is to have a solution that is milky at room temp but clear when hot. Then slowly cool down the solution to room temp, then fridge, then freezer, to get largest/purest crystals.

Look up recrystallization tutoritals on YT to understand the process - it's the same principle used when crystallizing salt, copper sulfate or DMT.
 

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Sunl1ght
#2922 Posted : 10/13/2018 11:39:57 AM
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when i have goo when i evoperate the naphta, will the crystals from freeze precipitation then also be like goo? Confused
 
WillieTheDude
#2923 Posted : 10/13/2018 2:23:26 PM

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Hi, I'd like to share my experience with bufojam extraction and hopefully get some advice for my future research.

I have followed Jorkest tekk with slight modifications. I used 20 Anadenanthera peregrina seeds from trusted source did the toasting added NAHCO3 (nothing else was available) toasted again, did 4 IPA pulls and evaporated the IPA solution onto 500mg of weed.

Now after everything evaporated weed changed its color from light green to very dark almost blackish green and distinctively changed its smell (no IPA smell though). It also went from 500mg to 750mg so I definitely pulled something from the seeds.

To my experience. I started with loading 90mg into my pipe (what should be rough equivalent of 3 seeds if I maths right). I took long deep hits until I couldn't get anymore and held it 10+sec. This didn't do much so I loaded another 50mg. After finishing the pipe I got slight bodyload not uncomfortable though and some very mild visuals. I could see light from the candles I've lit forming tunnel of light beams traveling straight to my eyes and I could distinguish every single light beam that was forming the tunnel. While I still couldn't feel any uncomfortable bodyload which many people talk about I decided to load another 75mg.
After smoking this the experience gained very trance like state. I got into thought loops my heart rate elevated I got into this weird head space where I couldn't form my thoughts into words.
After 15 minutes or so this changed into very sedative state and I've fallen asleep shortly after.

What bugs me is that if my math is right I smoked what should be approximately 6 seeds and I cannot say that I'm impressed by what I experienced. Other people describe CEVs, geometric patterns, color distortions and other sweet stuff yet my experience was very underwhelming.
Is it because the extraction method? Or maybe potency of the seeds? I'd very much appreciate any replies regarding bufotenine extraction into smokeable form as I'm not interested in snuff.

I also hope I post this into right topic. I'm new here and I can't create new thread in bufo subforum so this seemed appropriate.

Cheers Everyone, Happy travels!
 
observe
#2924 Posted : 11/4/2018 12:23:47 AM
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Potassium hydroxide,salt, and water was added to 1lb of mhrb until it was a jet black fluid that is not very thick. The resulting pulls yielded via homogenous heating of the basic solution yielded little to no goo. An abnormally low amount for this particular bark. Would drying the bark solution completely and pulling from the dried chunks aid? Would adding more water to increase polarity and force the dmt out of the basic solution produce negligible increase in yield(like2-3x)? Lazymans tek was used. any advice would be eagerly welcomed. Thank you.
 
pete666
#2925 Posted : 11/4/2018 8:33:26 AM

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Was it your first extraction? Or first for this bark?

observe wrote:
Would drying the bark solution completely and pulling from the dried chunks aid?

I don't think so. Drying would cause an oxidisation of dmt. Why should it help? Do you want to use another TEK on the result of drying?

observe wrote:
Would adding more water to increase polarity and force the dmt out of the basic solution produce negligible increase in yield(like2-3x)?

No, more water can be used, but its purpose is avoiding emulsions. Dmt transfers very readily from water to non-polar when pH is high enough. So more water != higher yield.
Btw salt is not necessary ime.

Have you got an idea how much(%) should be in the bark used?
Have you powderized the bark?
How long have you left it in the basic solution before adding non-polar?
How much have you shaken the mixture? For how long? How many times? (before pulling)
Have you used evaporation or freeze-preciptation?
What is the yield (%)?


Acceptance of the fact that our reality is not real doesn't in fact mean it is not real. It just leads to better understanding what real means.
 
observe
#2926 Posted : 11/4/2018 1:31:29 PM
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I have a few extractions under my belt quit keeping track awhile ago. First extract on this particular bark. I evaporate my solvent because I enjoy the full spectrum results and have no way of freeze precip atm. Bark should be at least 2% It's reliable and I've used this vendor in the past to great success. It's powder. It sat in the basic solution about a week. I haven't shaken the mixture because naphtha seeps out onto my hands (it dissolves the rubber ring around the mason jar on contact). I have stirred a lot probably an hour total. I haven't Weighed yield yet but I've done this several times and it looks like 2g tops but likely less. I was thinking if I dried the watery goop then broke it up my jars would be less full, the bark would break down more, and the solvent could better contact the entire surface area without the difference in polarity stopping the solvent from fully penetrating deep into the solution. I don't mind oxidation assuming it doesn't affect solubility. This bark is marketed as superior to the last I used which yielded 6g. Thank you.
 
observe
#2927 Posted : 11/5/2018 2:01:03 AM
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Could too little water be responsible for low yields? Definitely more of a basic goo.
 
pete666
#2928 Posted : 11/5/2018 7:28:56 AM

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observe wrote:
I have a few extractions under my belt quit keeping track awhile ago. First extract on this particular bark.

If you've done few successfull extractions with different bark and got good results and now bad result with the same extraction procedure and different bark, it would look like bad bark.

observe wrote:
I evaporate my solvent because I enjoy the full spectrum results and have no way of freeze precip atm.

I strongly suggest freeze precipitation, as it leads to results with lower lye contamination.
Evaporation vs freeze-precip doesn't have a correlation with full spectrum. For full spectrum result use toluene or xylene instead of naphtha.

observe wrote:
Bark should be at least 2% It's reliable and I've used this vendor in the past to great success.

Well, if it's a different bark, you can't be sure even with the same vendor. Even the same bark from the same vendor can be a waste.

observe wrote:
It's powder. It sat in the basic solution about a week.

I put 100g of properly powderized bark to 100g of lye dissolved in 0,5L of distilled water. Mix properly and let sit for 24 hours with ocassional shaking. Then I continue by addition of 1L of distilled water and pulling with non-polar
24 hours in such basic environment breaks the bark much better than adding all the water at the beginning.

observe wrote:
I haven't shaken the mixture because naphtha seeps out onto my hands (it dissolves the rubber ring around the mason jar on contact).

I strongly suggest acquiring some vessel resistant to used chemicals, so you can shake violently.

observe wrote:
I was thinking if I dried the watery goop then broke it up my jars would be less full, the bark would break down more, and the solvent could better contact the entire surface area without the difference in polarity stopping the solvent from fully penetrating deep into the solution. I don't mind oxidation assuming it doesn't affect solubility. This bark is marketed as superior to the last I used which yielded 6g.


Well, my guess of the cause of the quality of the bark. If your previous extractions were different TEKs and this is your first run with this TEK, then it may be insufficient cell breakage or insufficient mixing of non-polar with the aqueous soup. You might try to evaporate some water, but I would preffer leaving it as it is and adding enough lye and letting to sit with shaking before pulling with non-polar solvent.

observe wrote:
Could too little water be responsible for low yields? Definitely more of a basic goo.

No
Acceptance of the fact that our reality is not real doesn't in fact mean it is not real. It just leads to better understanding what real means.
 
observe
#2929 Posted : 11/5/2018 9:10:35 AM
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So shaking is what you suggest I do to improve my technique?
 
pete666
#2930 Posted : 11/5/2018 9:36:18 AM

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observe wrote:
So shaking is what you suggest I do to improve my technique?

If you did the same TEK with good results with different bark before, I suggest acquiring another bark.
If you've never done this TEK before, I suggest adding plenty of lye, letting to sit and improving the shaking technique. I am shaking violently the most I can for a minute or two. Then let fully separate layers. Then again. 3 such cycles first pull, 6 cycles second pull and 10 cycles last pull. Heat is used for 2-3 last cycles in last pull. I doubt you can do anything more here.
Acceptance of the fact that our reality is not real doesn't in fact mean it is not real. It just leads to better understanding what real means.
 
Sunl1ght
#2931 Posted : 11/7/2018 10:24:32 AM
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what is a good measurement to prepare a citric acid acetone solution? how much citric acid for how much acetone? (i use pure citric acid, not the monohydrate)
 
Minecraftplayer92
#2932 Posted : 11/23/2018 8:46:23 PM
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Hey there,
if one had been following Noman's tek (minus ammonia bath) and had about half a mason jar full of naphtha in the freezer overnight, and there was only a few (about 10) tiny flakes in the naphtha in the morning, what would you say is going wrong in the extraction process? Not sure how much is supposed to be present, but this is almost nothing. If one ran this thru a coffee filter there would be nothing really accessible. Any ideas? Enough bark left for one more try, wanna nail it on the last one and finally go to hyperspace
 
Incarnation
#2933 Posted : 11/23/2018 9:49:03 PM
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If youโ€™ll take the jar out of the freezer and set it up in front of a fan, then the more Naphtha you allow to evaporate, the more concentrated it will become, increasing the ability for the alkaloids to crash out once you put it back in the freezer. Remember to evaporate in a well ventilated location, away from any open flames. It would evaporate more quickly in a wider dish.
 
pete666
#2934 Posted : 11/23/2018 10:04:43 PM

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If you did it correctly, there are two main reasons why it failed. The most likely is bad bark. The next is low saturation. Evaporate about a half of the non-polar and try again. If not precipitating again, repeat the evaporation. If fully evaporated and got too little, the bark is useless.
Although you might have done some another mistake in the process...
Acceptance of the fact that our reality is not real doesn't in fact mean it is not real. It just leads to better understanding what real means.
 
Minecraftplayer92
#2935 Posted : 11/23/2018 10:56:31 PM
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thank you guys Smile Will give evaporating a try and report back.
 
Minecraftplayer92
#2936 Posted : 11/24/2018 7:56:29 AM
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the evaporation didn't appear to work, but i scrolled up and notice the agitation part. I tried shaking the naphtha/lye/bark mixture a bit harder and did another jar with that process. After only 6 hours in the freezer, there are a load of decent sized crystals forming. it issue seems to be working now Smile
 
pete666
#2937 Posted : 11/24/2018 8:13:56 AM

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I shake violently, as much as possible. And am always doing more shake/settle cycles (3 cycles for first pull, 6 for second pull, ...). Last pull can be heated.
This way you get everything out. The result contains more inpurities, but some people prefer it like that or purify it later
Acceptance of the fact that our reality is not real doesn't in fact mean it is not real. It just leads to better understanding what real means.
 
Naabi
#2938 Posted : 11/27/2018 10:36:17 AM

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Hello everyone!! I'm having some trouble...I've done the Blab tek a few times before without much trouble, but I can't seem to get my crystals lately. What I've done: added a liter of vinegar with 2 pounds MHRB. Left it for 2 days and then added 400g of lye and some water. Also left it for a week or so because I was moving out and didnt have time. I then added 500 ml of limonene, that didn't change color and produced nothing after salting. I thought it could be because I didn't use enough lye, the mimosa soup was very thick with the bark powder so I added another 200g of lye and more water. Now the bark has dissolved and my limonene turned a bright yellow color. I tried salting again last night and was baffled to see still nothing precipitates after adding sodium carbonate to my fumarates water.
I can think of 2 possibilites: 1. I didn't weight out the fumaric acid before mixing with water (although I checked the ph and the solution is around 2-3) nor the sodium carbonate (water and sodium carbonate had a ph of 13).
2. I evaporated the dish in a warm bath for about half hour to evaporate the limonene, but I didn't filter its oily remaims (Ithought only liquid limonene could interfere with the precipitation).
But maybe it can be something else...anyone got an idea of what happened?
 
downwardsfromzero
#2939 Posted : 11/27/2018 6:44:24 PM

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Naabi - have you extracted from this batch of bark before? BTW, if you haven't that's a lot of bark and reagents to commit to an unknown yield. This is but one of the reasons why smaller-scale extractions are encouraged.

It would be rather strange if you had extracted successfully from this batch of bark before, to be suddenly confronted with zero yield. Again, had you used a smaller amount of bark to start with, you would have more opportunity for troubleshooting at this point.

For further advice it would be helpful if you could describe your entire procedure in careful, stepwise detail.

My thought is that were your bark OK, the long soaking times for both acid and base should have released the DMT pretty well. So it's likely your bark is bunk.

The remaining glimmer of hope is whether you agitated the base soup with the limonene sufficiently. You could try giving the base soup a nice old shake with some fresh limonene (maybe even the stuff you've already used) and see whether that yields anything to the backsalting.

Attempting to perform an extraction in the middle of a house move is a pretty poor choice, IMHO. There was a recent news story, with sorry consequences, about a couple in that same situation. Perhaps the DMT has done you a favour, and hidden itself.




โ€œThere is a way of manipulating matter and energy so as to produce what modern scientists call 'a field of force'. The field acts on the observer and puts him in a privileged position vis-à-vis the universe. From this position he has access to the realities which are ordinarily hidden from us by time and space, matter and energy. This is what we call the Great Work."
โ€• Jacques Bergier, quoting Fulcanelli
 
dmt_awehhaea
#2940 Posted : 12/7/2018 10:41:17 PM

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I've been looking to prepare a second extraction with 100g of MHRB powder and was wondering how the tek (Cybs ATB Hybrid Salt Tek) should be adjusted.

After reading, I saw that you should NOT follow ratios which would make total sense.

Would adding 60g of salt instead of 30g and 100g of naphtha instead of 50g be a good adjustment?

Is there anything else that should be adjusted such as the lye? Have any of you done the tek with 100g instead of 50g without negatively affecting the yield of 2 seperate extractions?
 
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