I've performed two extractions: one with sunflower oil, one with limonene; both salted with vinegar.
Both glow green in UV (a cheap Chinese UV flashlight).

Now, from what I've gathered, DMT doesn't glow. So it must be something else pulled from the bark?

There a vitamins that will glow greenish yellow when mixed with vinegar such as small amounts of B-12 which I believe is present in sunflower oil. Other things like niacin,and thiamine I think will also fluoresce under UV or blacklight in certain conditions

or MAOI classes....rue also glow green.its known to have also another derivats

Have you checked both solvents with UV before they've been used for anything?

The unsaturated acids in sunflower oil are likely to fluoresce, for one thing.

Shining a blacklight on a well-used kitchen shows up all sorts of otherwise invisible stains!

did you freeze precip with the sunflower oil? if so how did u get the oil off?
just curious :0

I'm about to start experimenting with sunflowing oil as NPS and backsalting to vinegar. Could use some tips.

1: should I do the NPS pulls at room temp or heated? 40C?
2: how much NPS volume to use per pull? 50ml for 50g bark?
3: how long should each pull last? 45min?
4: how many pulls to perform? 4 pulls?

Say I extract 50g MHRB with 4x 50ml NPS pulls, that's 200ml sunflower oil containing 1g DMT which is to be backsalted. I'd want to keep the acidic solution volume as low as possible for faster evap.

5: what acidic solution volume and max pH should I use for the example above? 100ml @ pH <4?
6: how long should I let the back-salting occur? 30min?
7: after separating the acidic solution for evap, should I add new acid to the NPS and repeat? Don't think so.

Do my estimations make sense?
Thanks.

I'm currently finishing an extraction of ACRB with sunflower oil with a bit of limonene added (apparently this still offers the anti-emulsion benefits of limonene without the high cost of using limonene only).
I like the eco-friendly aspect of it, but pulling with oil is a bit messy... It sticks to the walls of the turkey baster etc., and much of it will end up in your collected aqueous backsaltings. You'll want to run the combined backsaltings through a coffee filter to get rid of the oil layer. And then evaporate the aqueous solution completely, or at least to a solid / goo; the evaporation removes the most unpalatable compounds.

I'm not good with numbers when NPS pulls are concerned, I still haven't gotten this down, but I understand sunflower oil holds more DMT than naphtha.

To try to answer your questions:

1. Room temperature works fine. Heated pulls make sense in the case of naphtha and freeze precipitation, where you want a high temperature differential to maximize the difference in solubility between hot and cold, and, consequently, freeze precipitation yields. Since you're not freeze precipitating here and tryptamine solubility in room temp oil is still good, no need for heat.

2. Since you're not freeze precipitating, an excess of NPS shouldn't hurt and may reduce the number of pulls needed. With my current ACRB extraction, I'm doing 75 grams of bark in ~300 ml basic soup, my NPS volume is probably around 75 ml.

3. 45 mins should be fine. Use a magnetic stirrer.

4. I hope someone can answer this question for you and for me! In my extraction I did 8 pulls, but the last couple were almost colorless, so it was probably overkill. As I said earlier, more NPS may reduce the number of pulls needed. I feel 4 pulls should be sufficient to get most of it out.

Don't worry about evaporation speed; my combined backsaltings were in the order of 700 ml, but that's quick to reduce in a stainless steel pan to a small volume, which you can subsequently transfer to a tray and evaporate in a dehydrator or the like.

5. For me, the first wash is maybe 10 ml 5% vinegar + 10 ml water.

6. I think 5 minutes is plenty. See the tek on the Wiki.

7. I do 2 or 3 more washes, this is with water with a dash of vinegar added to ensure reasonable acidity so most of the DMT is in salt form.

Have you ever considered using coconut oil? Its melting point, being just above 20°C, would appear to be a huge advantage when separating from aqueous mixtures. Just chill and pour.

Couldn't this lead to a situation whereby an emulsion forms while the oil is above its melting point, solidifies upon cooling, and, consequently, never resolves?

My vinegar backsaltings of sunflower oil pulls from ACRB also glowed green. Could it be 2MTHBC?

The onus would be on the user to avoid emulsions

TLC would give you an indication of how many components there are in the backsalted vinegar, and possibly whether any of them glow green. For definitive confirmation of a component which was shown in this way to display green fluorescence one or more of the 'proper' analytical (spectroscopic) methods would be required.

Thanks Jagube! This should be enough to get me going. Will go for:

1: should I do the sunflower NPS pulls at room temp? Yes
2: how much NPS volume to use per pull? 50ml for 50g bark
3: how long should each pull last? 45min
4: how many pulls to perform? 6x pulls
5: what acidic solution volume and max pH should I use for the example above? pH 4
6: how long should I let the back-salting occur? 30min *
7: after separating the acidic solution, how many times to add a acid back-pull to the NPS? 3x

I forgot to ask: I will use sodium carbonate as base. Is a base to MHRB ratio of 2:1 by weight good?
That's 100g sodium carbonate for 50g bark, in a 700ml total solution volume.
A/B extraction, acidic stage prior base @ 4 pH.


You say colorless, but sunflower oil is yellow from itself, no?


* Which wiki? 5min sounds short. More time (30 min) won't hurt, correct? I've done 30 min back-salting for mini-A/B clean-up on Earthwalkers ACRB tek, which worked but I did notice more yellow coloring of the acidic solution near the end of the duration.


Interesting. Will start out with sunflower oil. Maybe try coco later.

I don't know how much sodium carbonate you would need, but you can probably go by pH? Although more can be beneficial as it increases the ionic strength.


Sorry, I meant the backsaltings of the pulls were colorless, not the pulls themselves.


https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m...Tek#Acid_wash.2FSalting:
It actually says:

I can't comment as to whether this is good advice or not though.

I will go for a 7.5 min back-salt.
Then separate the acidic solution
Then add a new acidic solution and do a new 7.5 min back-salt
Then separate the second acidic solution
Then add a new acidic solution and do another 15 min back-salt
Evaporate the 3 batches separately and check results


The ionic strength is more important than pH, esp. for emulsion loving veggie oil.
I think 100g for 50g bark in 700ml solution should do (better more than less).

Thanks for your help. If anyone has any tips to add let me know. Will keep you posted on results.

Update: I decided to try carbonated water for back-salting instead of vinegar.

If any of you have any suggestions and advice please share:
https://www.dmt-nexus.me...1026881&#post1026881

Thanks

If you're already trying an experimental procedure, using a further untested could complicate matters. However, in this instance you can at least follow up with vinegar pulls if the carbonated water doesn't work.

A couple more thoughts -
Won't the gas bubbles lead to emulsion problems?
Make sure you use distilled water for this, dissolved minerals may confound your yield results.

Good points, indeed.

Regarding bubble emulsions, only one way to find out..

??
of course it glows. Freebase glows light blue-teal @ 365 nm. dimers glow orange.
DMT fumarate salts do tend to glow greenish.