Sodium carbonate or calcium hydroxide would be better. What were you planning on doing with the material once based? Snorting caustic soda, for example, would be a terrible idea.

Backsalt all the NPS with vinegar or other acid and treat as mini A/B. Then you'll still have all/most of your solvent and won't be polluting the atmosphere with VOC's quite so much.

Use the acid-washed solvent to pull the base soup a zillion more times or until you get bored - there's a good chance more product will have been released from the plant material in the additional time elapsed so far.

A few smaller pulls are better than one big one.

Downwardsfromzero You are are prolific poster here helping us noobs...much appreciated!

Going to grab a turkey baster and do the backsalt. I feel like a dick now evaporating that for the last 2 hours but still plenty left that is saved for next pull.

Cheers again!

No swim's not metal enough to snort the resulting goo. Swim planned on using 1g of lye to break down 30 cebil. Swim was then going to dehydrate the resulting mixture grind it up soak in acetone for a night and evaporate the acetone onto some mugwort. Swim haw had success using sodium carbonate for this. Lime has worked once too but is really only practical for snuffs.

Sodium hydroxide is very hygroscopic. I don't know how you would be planning on drying that out.

Acetone will react with sodium hydroxide to form unpleasant goop.

Swim once soaked 10g mhrb in 50ml of water with 1 tsp of distilled white vinegar added for a weekend. She then added a tablespoon of sodium hydroxide and after another day of basing evaporated off all liquid, the resulting goo was soaked in acetone for a night and the following day she had no problem recrystallizing with FASA. It would be more convenient to use sodium hydroxide rather than make sodium carbonate. If she used sodium hydroxide sparingly to base her colubrina would it work? Swim would like to avoid causing unnecessary reactions such as the ones that occur with Lime.

Sounds like you've got the experience then. It's true that sodium hydroxide will have been used up to a certain degree and any remainder will react with CO2 from the air to form sodium carbonate anyhow. This will then be more forgiving towards the acetone.

Seeds will contain far more fats than ACRB does. You'll likely be ending up with a bunch of soap contaminating your product so it would be good to work around that likelihood.

What are these "unnecessary reactions" that occur with lime?

In a very helpful cebil extraction thread 69ron proposed that calcium hydroxide converts to bufotenine to something else through prolonged exposure. swim had incredibly finicky results when using calcium hydroxide and got consistent results when basing with sodium carbonate. Swim always has decent yields with sodium carbonate. Lime has resulted in me pulling nothing on several occasions.

So, given that experience, what do you think will happen with using sodium hydroxide rather than sodium carbonate or calcium hydroxide? Will it present similar issues to the reaction with lime?

Strong bases like lime or lye can deprotonate the hydroxy group of bufotenine which likely makes the molecule prone to oxidation, perhaps forming dehydrobufotenine. Whether this is desirable or not, I can't say. Your experience suggests that it might not work out to use sodium hydroxide.

If sodium carbonate works, why would you want to try this different method?

Scientific curiosity is very much a valid reason

Lye requires no preparation. Sodium carbonate works perfectly but requires time to produce. Swim has no disposable time at the moment. Swim's inquiry was more so out of curiosity of viable routes rather than immediate application. You sound much more soundly qualified to make claims of lime altering the resulting compound than swim. Swim would suspect dehydrobufotenine has different characteristics than bufotenine itself resulting in its solubility being different? Swim is under the impression bufotenine n oxide is the nausea causing agent being darker of color salting out of acetone as a fumarate salt with the bufotenine itself. The n oxide forms of other substances can accentuate dysphoric elements so swim adopted the idea, I intend to frame these as inquiring statements since my frame of reference is slim. All I can recall are dmt n oxides being much weaker and oxidized nicotine salts being harsh.

You can prepare the Sodacarb on stove instead of in the oven.. takes 5 mins if the quantity is not too big

Thank you.

SWIM is doing his first extraction using eco tek by endlessness.
After initial pulls SWIM just redissolved red goo in IPA. Not everything was soluble - dark purple powder was left on coffee filter. Results SWIM can not weight yet but it looks promising. Problem is, goo that he obtained is orange (red when scrambled together) but VERY sticky goo which for one is hard to deal with, as it stick all the time to razor and secondly will be hard to put into pipe.
Any idea how Swim can more solidify it?

Swim has rotten rue tea, rather than throw away the very active but intensely nauseating remnants how could she go about extracting the harmalas from the solution? It is about 150-200ml of cloudy almost orange fluid very acidic (don't have exact PH) an excess of apple cider vinegar was used. Swim cant freeze precipitate.

Messer if you are looking for stable solids Swim has had success using FASA. I realize this is not convenient for every individual so looking into re crystallization techniques here on the nexus would be a good place to start. Good luck.

Crash out alkaloids with preferably ammonia but lye will do. Collect solids, redissolve in vinegar, filter. Add base again, repeating the whole process until the acid solution is virtually colourless, then Manske with warm salt solution.

Have a look at some of the excellent harmala threads for more details.

SWIM tried doing enhanced leaf.
Spice - in form of orange-red goo - was diluted in 99% IPAa, and mullein was then soaked in it. SWIM is sure that all of the IPA evaporated so thats not the case, but when he's trying to smoke, leaf ignites. After extinguishing it one or two times it then smokes nicely, but SWIM is afraid that alot of spice is lost in the process which explains mild results. Any idea, tip?

Hi all. This is my first post. This is an amazing community and I cant wait to get good enough to contribute and return the help I have received.

SWIM has been trying several different STB techniques with MHRB and has several ongoing issues.
There were 4 Mason jars that had been sitting overnight with distilled water and lye in them. Each Jar had 650ml distilled water 50G Lye and 50G MHRB.
SWIM has had several successful batches in the past and at this point just trying different things.
75ML of Naptha was added to the mason jars and the were put in hot bath and rolled every 15 min or so. All 4 were crazy cloudy even when they would normaly be separated.
SWIM has seen what is assumed to be emulsion before. It kind of looks like bubbles or lava lamp coming up from the bassified solution up into the solvent correct? Well this is not like emulsion.
Swim took all 4 mason jars and transferred the contents to a large glass Jug. After reading that lye will knock down emulsions there was more lye added to no avail.
Basically this looks like 85% of the Jug is dark basefied solution and the next 10% is just a little bit lighter in color but still pretty dark. ITs nothing like what Swim is used to where the Naphtha looks like some severely dehydrated persons urine.
Can anyone give any pointers on how to not loose this batch?

Hey homie, turkey basters suck. For $5-15 you can get a 1ml-100ml glass luerlock syrenge with an infinite assortment of attachments, the sky/imagination is the limit. Or you can get a box of BioDies. Ones chepo.

Just separate the dark layer.. Sometimes when using a little bit more lye and heat in-line with a little bit violent mixing the solvent can transfer impurities(depending on solvent), and the color changes.

I had very similar just a while ago, dark brown hexane. But with some sodium wash it turned light yellow and ready for the freezer

Hey homie, turkey basters suck. For $5-15 you can get a 1ml-100ml glass luerlock syrenge with an infinite assortment of attachments, the sky/imagination is the limit. Or you can get a box of BioDies. Ones chepo.