LevitatingGod's 1.7% yielding A/B MHRB extraction & Single Tasteless Multi-Gram Mega/Mono Crystal Recrystallization Technique

Disclaimer
This extraction is illegal in most countries; I am in no way promoting its production or use, but rather have created this technique for educational purposes only.

Materials Needed
• 2500 ml glass vessel to extract from (I use a big pickle jar) x 2
• Glass Turkey Baster
• Glass eye dropper
• 1000 ml & 500 ml Pyrex measuring cup
• Safety goggles & rubber gloves
• Workable stovetop (preferably with access to four or more burners)
• (4) 5000ml+ pots
• 2000mL 0.5% distilled white vinegar
• approximately 12gallons water (sink water is fine)
• 400g Sodium hydroxide (lye)
• 400mL Naphtha
• Long stirring utensil (I use barbecue tongs)
• Coffee filters
• Cling / saran wrap
• Big flat Pyrex glass tray
• Scale (grams)
• 400G Mimosa hostilis root bark (will be split into two extraction vessels)
• Strainer
• Sewing string (dark colored preferably)
• Pencil
YOU WILL ALSO NEED A DAMP-RID **UNSCENTED** DESICCANT(see pictures)

Introduction
This technique was designed to produce 1.7% yields from mimosa hostilis root bark consistently without any deviation (bark concentrations may differ). *If one were to follow this extraction technique and change the amount of whether it be the bark or any material listed above, one would achieve results that would/could severely differ from this techniques intended results.* The final product of this extraction being tasteless, transparent, crystalline, DMT shards and one tasteless, transparent super crystal that can range from 2 grams, all the way to 20 grams depending on if you were to use this extraction method and recrystallize a whole kilo or more of bark.


Technique
1. You will have your four 5000mL+ empty pots on your stove when beginning this technique; in the first pot add 3600 ml of water and 400 ml of vinegar with the first 200 grams of shredded mimosa hostilis.

2. Stir and set heat to 3/10 for 1 and a half hours, stiroccasionally.

3. In the second pot, you will add a fresh 3600 ml of water and 400 ml of vinegar, and the second 200 grams of shredded mimosa hostilis.

4. Stir and set heat to 3/10 for 1 and a half hours, stir occasionally.

5. Strain the first pot into the first empty pot

6. Strain the second pot into the second empty pot

7. Let the bark cool some, put on your gloves and squeeze the bark out until its utterly dry (dry enough to where it won’t leave an excess amount of moisture on your fingers when touched.)

8. You will now set each 200g squeezed bark from straining back into their original pots you acidified them in to re-acidify with a fresh 2700 ml of water and 300 ml of vinegar in each pot

9. Stir and set heat to 3/10 for 1 and a half hours, stir occasionally.

10. Reduce the strained liquid in pots 3 and 4 by placing heat on 5/10 while the bark in pots 1 and 2 re-acidifies

11. Strain the bark once again from pots 1 & 2 into their corresponding pots, 3 and 4

12. Let the bark cool, put your gloves on and squeeze the bark out the same way as in the previous step

13. Put the bark back in their corresponding pots, 1 and 2

14. Fill with a fresh 2700 ml of water and 300 ml of vinegar in each pot(1&2), re-acidify the bark in each pot once more but with higher heat,

15. Set heat to 5/10 for last acidifications to re-acidify for another hour and a half, stir occasionally.

16. Strain the last re-acidifications into the corresponding reductions (pots 3&4)

17. Let the bark cool, put your gloves on, squeeze it out fully and trash it

18. Reduce liquid in each of the two remaining pots(3&4) to 2000ml each.

19. *COVER WITH LID* Let extractions cool completely and once cooled, slowly pour off the liquid from each pot into each of your two glass vessels that you will extract from.

20. There will be a thick layer of gunk that has formed at the bottom of the pot; you will need to strain this with several coffee filters, and then squeeze it out thoroughly into the corresponding glass vessel; dispose when done.

21. *IMPORTANT* REMOVAL & SQUEEZING OUT THE BOTTOM LAYER OF GUNK IN STEP #20 ALLOWS FOR THE NAPHTHA IN LATER STEPS TO SEPERATE VERY EASILY WITHIN A FEW MINUTES WITHOUT HEAT BATHS. THIS TECHNIQUE WAS DESIGNED TO REQUIRE NO HEAT BATHING! Failure to comply with the removal of this bottom layer of gunk that builds up at the bottom of the cooled acidifications will result in an extraction that you will inevitably have to throw away without any DMT retrieval because it prevents the naphtha from properly separating in later steps.

22. ***IMPORTANT*** Wear goggles AND gloves at all times when dealing with lye; this substance can blind you. To begin basifying each solution, we will add 75 grams of lye to each glass vessel and stir very slowly and carefully JUST A FEW TIMES AROUND, enough to make sure it doesn’t clump at the bottom. (This stirring method is perfect for keeping the glass from heating up too much from emulsion)

23. Let it sit for five minutes, after, add 50 grams of lye into each vessel the same way.

24. Stir 25 grams into each extraction, sit two minutes, stir 25 grams in each, sit two minutes, stir 25 grams in each; and stir very well on this last addition of lye.

25. Stir very well in this last addition of lye for 30 seconds on each vessel.

26. Let sit for five minutes, add 50 ml of Naphtha into each extraction, and stir well for two minutes in each vessel, 3x each naphtha added.

27. Let naphtha separate for 10minutes & restir for 2-3 minutes thoroughly and let seperate again, stir and let separate 3 x per fresh naphtha added, then Siphon DMT-saturated solvent with turkey baster (its ok not to get all the Naphtha up on this first pull) from each vessel into the single big Pyrex glass tray.

28. Do add new naphtha four times in total, adding 50mL fresh solvent to each of the two extractions a total of (4) times, stirring 2-3 minutes with each 50mL very well everytime and letting separate (3x total per) 10minutes before siphoning the solvent into your single large tray. (You will have used 200mL/200mL by the end, 400mL naphtha in total but w big tray can handle that much to precipitate through if you follow these next steps verbatim)

29. Let tray sit with all collected DMT binded solvent for 30 minutes undisturbed, in the open

30. With a flat razor blade, scrape all fats/oils that have collected on the bottom of the tray over to one corner of the tray

31. Wrap tray airtight with saran wrap and store in freezer for 36 hours; undisturbed on a flat level surface

32. Remove tray from freezer and remove film over tray and pour the naphtha through a coffee filter into a measuring cup(in these photos, each tray was one extraction vessel due to my big tray being in-use already)

33. Leave your frosty tray, under a fan to dry in a well-ventilated room for approximately one hour

34. Scrape all areas of the tray besides the oils (sometimes there are none if it's extracted properly) that you collected in one part of the tray before freeze precipitating (you will leave this for later recrystallizations you can do on your own)

35. If you have followed this technique precisely and extracted 400 grams of bark in two vessels (200g/200g), you should end up with, depending on the concentrations of your bark, 6.8 grams from your one tray.
***If you added a third extraction following this method, you would yield approx. 10.2grams on total & if you only extracted 200g from one vessel following this method, you would yield 3.4g*** (I received 6.66g of cleaner grade and about 1.2g of dried gooey-ness fats and 1.1g of a glop of oil. Making a total yield of 8.96g from 400grams mhrb. So I got a bit over 1.7% for 400g but the 6.66g was much cleaner so I stuck with that being my result as the other stuff was clearly more than dmt.)

36. Place all the cleaner DMT you scraped into a Pyrex measuring cup (should be around 4-6 grams)

37. Add 50 ml of fresh Naphtha into the measuring cup with the DMT

38. You can use heated water in a pot as a heat bath method(AWAY from heat source) on this part if you do not have a glass-friendly hot plate(must be using borosilicate glass without any cracks to safely use the hot plate method & LOW heat). Place your measuring cup(heat bath) or your borosilicate glassware(hot plate) with the DMT and fresh Naphtha in it, onto the hot plate or into the heat bath.

39. Let the DMT dissolve as the cup heats up undisturbed for the next 30 minutes (if using heat bath, reheat the water when it's turned mildly-warm,

40. Slowly pour your DMT binded solvent through a coffee filter, being careful to leave behind all oils in the measuring cup you’re pouring from, into your most choice glass vessel that you’d like to recrystallize in.

41. Let the solvent in your recrystallization vessel cool for 30 minutes IN the location that you will leave it undisturbed for 2 days

42. Once cooled after 30minutes, cover the vessel with airtight saran wrap, and leave undisturbed for two days.

43. Remove film and let it slowly evaporate until little to no solvent is remaining. (make sure this is done in an area that has still air to prevent oxidizing the DMT crystals)

44. If little solvent remains, pour off the last bit into another tray for later use

45. Let your now DMT crystals dry for 3 hours, no fan, no moving air, just where they are in the vessel.

46. Carefully use a utensil to scrape out the biggest and most transparent crystal possible (you will use this for a seed either to make a new seed for a mono style crystal or for a forced mega multi gram crystal)

47. Let this transparent crystal dry for another 30 minutes in a location that will be undisturbed/with still air

48. Tie a sewing string around your seed crystal, double knotted so that it will be able to hold on to the crystal, but not too tight that it will destroy it.

49. Pour 50 ml of fresh Naphtha into the re-crystallization vessel that has all of the remaining crystals, and pour back the naphtha that you left in the tray into the vessel

50. Heat vessel until all crystal DMT has completely dissolved (low heat, 3/10 works fine)

51. Be patient, you can break up the crystals with any small utensil, you can crush them down if you feel they are taking too long to melt

52. Once all DMT is dissolved (if there are any oils remaining), pour the solvent through the coffee filter, clean out your re-crystallization vessel, and pour the clean solvent back in

53. Let solvent cool completely to room temperature

54. Place your string seeded transparent crystal into the vessel, suspended by tying the string to a pencil that sits atop the glass vessel.

55. Make sure your seed has room from all sides, especially the bottom of your crystallization vessel.

56. Cover with coffee filter lightly atop the pencil and leave undisturbed until your seed is as big as you want it

57. You can repeatedly melt the DMT that forms at the bottom of the glass back into solvent and re-suspend and submerge your grown seed when the solvent is room temperature. Reseeding the growing seeded crystal is how super crystals can easily be made(this is to force crystals to attach onto one another forming a multi gram mega crystal) OR for a mono style crystal you would not re submerge the seed over and over but leave entirely alone until the crystal seed has formed a geometric pattern similar to the shape of a cube *this could take a few tries but one small cube will do just fine for the development of a monocrystal* (this cube will be cut out from the rest of the seeded crystal to be used as a seedling in the redissolved dmt solvent to form a crystal with geometrics more similar to a single monocrystal, just retie the string around your now cube seedling and suspend it back into the room temperature redissolved dmt-saturated solvent, leaving covered with a cover *I used a crystal plate to cover mine completely* or a couple coffee filters until satisfied with the growth)

58. If you follow this exactly, you not only should end up with a grand plus size single transparent, tasteless crystal, but you could theoretically make one that is 15grams + just as easily if you extracted from enough material.

59. If you’re satisfied with the size with your now super crystal/monocrystal, carefully remove it from suspension (make sure to let the crystal finish dripping) and place onto a coffee filter very close by OR if you want it larger, remove any covering and let solvent begin to slowly evaporate until it's gone/near gone and this will allow more growth on your mega crystal/monocrystal.
*IT WAS OBSERVED THAT UPON REMOVAL OF THE COVER WITH THE MONOCRYSTAL SEED SUSPENDED INSIDE, THE CRYSTALLINE STRUCTURE CHANGED GRADUALLY FROM THAT OF ONE BIG SYMMETRICAL CUBE-LIKE MONOCRYSTAL TO A SINGLE MULTI-FACED MONOCRYSTAL*
**THIS COULD BE BECAUSE OF THE EVAPORATION STAGE**
***I HAD ALSO ACCIDENTLY BUMPED THE GLASS AFTER IT HAD DEVELOPED THE MULTI-FACED CRYSTAL WHILE TRYING TO SCOOT AN OBJECT OUT OF THE VISION OF MY SEED... THE CRYSTAL DEVELOPED MORE FACES FROM THAT MOMENT FORWARD, MORE THAN IT HAD DURING EVAPORATION***
****ALL DISTURBANCES IMPACT THE FORMATION OF THE CRYSTAL****
*****I STRONGLY ADVISE LEAVING YOUR CRYSTALLIZATION VESSEL IN A PLACE THAT IT WILL BE THE LEAST DISTURBED IN (THIS WOULD INCLUDE DISTURBANCE OF WALKING ON THE FLOOR NEAR THE VESSEL, THEREBY CAUSING SHAKING / VIBRATIONS TO OCCUR WITHIN THE VESSEL)*****

60. Let crystal dry undisturbed in still air for 1 hour, then cut the crystal string with two ends of two different razor blades.

61. Then place onto a new coffee filter and place inside an unscented, damp-rid desiccant container.

62. Seal the top with saran wrap, and let it dry for 3 days, airing it out once every 6-12 hours

63. Remove your crystal, and let it sit in a well-ventilated area for another 24-72hours(preferably 72 especially with a monocrystal), but not in an area with direct air blowing onto the crystal, but rather in a room with good air flow and the mono/mega crystal tucked into a spot that will not allow air to touch it directly(this prevents oxidation greatly trying to avoid all contact with air during the drying process)

Conclusion:
We have now turned what was standard DMT into what could only be established as a DMT mega/mono crystal rock. Enjoy!

Overall typical nothing-new workflow but has hiatus even if trowed trough a double split experiment over pools of mercury under a full blood moon

21 - claiming that present plant matter (in the naphtha pulls stage) will lead to no yield at all: with this you claim CYB and STB teks are worthless
22 - 25 never add hard lye to you extraction brew, not even step wise, dissolve it in advance,
34 - stating that having oil is result of improper extracting is false imho. It's quite bark dependent in my experience.

Nevertheless this using of a seed crystal, we all know about it but few actually do that, so thanks for posting that. This I find most interesting

conclusion:
you should use cybs tek

Never ever ever put flammable solvent directly on a heat source (even in a double boiler) heat the water and do a hot water bath *away from the heat source*.

A backsalting step would help significantly cut down on those fats and oil you have to scrape to the side of the tray, if you are going for that ultra purity.

The rock candy method has been discussed here a few times:
https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=26643
https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=71605
https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=30084
https://www.dmt-nexus.me....aspx?g=posts&t=1520

Dissolving the material and resubmerging the seed over and over again to increase mass is a nice trick though.

I'm stating triple acidifying the same bark leaves tremendous amounts of material that sticks together like an elastic-y paste and will form at that top after stirring naphtha in and if not removed, the naphtha separating will only separate partial amounts of solvent originally used or it will separate VERY slowly. This step is important to remove the gunk bc sometimes it forms a layer where the naphtha cannot return to the top through. Also, it ups the yield by allowing all the solvent/majority of it to be recovered.

IME, having created/done this technique several times, the more oily yields are typically happening when I have an extraction that was taking awhile for the naphtha to separate back. Normally it's completed separted within 5minutes but sometimes it's taken 10-15 and those yields were typically oily more than normal.

I have done that one. Also, I've done willy mycos, Nomans, and personally I like mine more than any of them. Not because it's "better" but because it works well for me.

They are all great techniques but with this tek I have gotten 17-18grams from every kilo I've extracted from, everytime.

*One must take into consideration that all extracted kilos have been done over the course of years. Creating your own techniques can cause a lot of trial and error and for that alone I went through a lot of plant material*
(I used to extract 50g at a time acid-salt-base, Johnny ayahuasca style, before creating my own A/B)
*THE ONLY TIMES AND REASON WHY I WOULDVE EVER EXTRACTED A LOT IN A SHORT PERIOD WOULD HAVE BEEN TO EDUCATE MYSELF ON HOW TO GROW A BIG CRYSTAL AS SEEN ABOVE OR TO PROVE THE ONE ON EROWID IS REAL.*
****THIS IS ALL OVER THE COURSE OF YEARS THAT I HAVE EXTRACTED KILOS. I HAVE NEVER GIVEN AWAY/SOLD/OR PROMOTED PRODUCTION/COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION OF DMT AND AM IN NO WAY DOING THAT HERE****
My techniques disclaimer clearly states this is for educational purposes only and I do not promote its production as it is illegal.

Mentioning/handling large amounts is stupid

Why? How else are you supposed to make a lot into one crystal? It takes a good amount to make a good sized single crystal. Without the ability to make a lot, there's no chance to create a crystal that weighs 5+grams..

I agree and have edited that step to provide safer instruction.

It's good to redissolve the crystals forming outside of the seed and re submerge the seed upon the solvent cooling to room temp. However, letting the solvent evaporate with the seed submerged allows bigger crystal growth and isn't as forced either. I like to include a bit of both but to grow a SINGLE large crystal like the picture on erowid, one must incorporate the proper type of seed and evaporation of the solvent with the seed submerged.

Still about DMT however you turn it. I wish a defense could sound like: "Hey I was just sculpturing you know, I had to have a lot".

yeah that is a nice clump of hundreds of thousands of crystals

here is what a large monocrystal looks like (of mescaline), this one is plate shaped:

https://www.dmt-nexus.me...&m=785520#post785520

a monocrystal you can look right through, there are no (or very little) imperfections in the lattice to block the light that passes through,

what happened on your seed is that instead of treating the seed as a scaffold to continue the growth of the lattice, it just treated it as a surface to grow thousands of new tiny crystals

Thanks for sharing your technique!

That being said..



Yes but you only have to do it once to have enough for your experiments, you can keep redissolving and recrystallizing the same DMT amount for several successive experiments, you don't need to do several successive kilo extractions. Again I suggest you read this:

https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m....80.9Cspreading.E2.80.9D

Please edit your post and refrain from discussing such amounts in the future, it doesn't add to the discussion, and is honestly very sketchy.

..yup..




Red Flags all over the place....

This part has me wondering. I have never heard about the use of damp-rid (presumably calcium chloride monohydrate) as an absorbent for naphtha vapors. It is commonly used to absorb humidity, but there should be none to your crystals freshly grown from naphtha.

Could you please explain the purpose and your reasoning behind this?

I know the difference as well. My method to grow this crystal is different that the method I use to expand upon a single crystals growth. I will have the exact same kind of crystals you're referring to come time to my next extraction being completed, as I have just figured a way to make a crystal just like the picture on erowid.

Like I said before, I've been extracting for years so the idea that I've gone through a few kilos shouldn't make you sketched out.

Maybe if one were to assume I meant I've gone through several, or even two, kilos within the last month, I'd understand it coming off as sketchy. My point being, just plainly assuming the time frame is what makes it appear sketchy. I've extracted for years now and that is why I can say things like "from every kilo extracted." Meaning, I have gotten consistent results.

You only need 500 grams of 1% yielding bark to make a 5 gram crystal. Not kilos of the stuff.


Just sayin'.

It's pretty humid in my area and I like a still dry environment for drying my crystals. So I use it to pull all moisture from the air during the drying stage.

Assuming you get enough to make it all transparent crystalline grade, sure. I go for bigger extracted amounts because I don't like to re crystallize any oils with the 'white fluffy' grade. This just makes it easier to not worry about oils on my crystal or losing its transparency.