Hello all, looking for a quick hand assisting a friend I need

He ended up getting best-test rubber cement thinner rather than bestine.

I'm hoping someone can tell me if best test is pure n-heptane or not?

Ty kindly

According to what he has told me im.thinking it is not pure heptane. For one, it did dissolve his fats so......

I'm just weighing all possibilities for him. His solution turned an odd color and I'm unsure why. The suspected heptane turned greenish yellow upon adding his crude extract. It also did dissolve his fats and did NOT leave the fats behind

I've told him to get bestine and run a control test to see if it was the best test that did him in. And if not he must have some lye ect left in his crude extract still im.guessing..

I cannot locate best test heptane on the pull down list I checked

Since this event he has gotten bestine. So hoping to salvage here what he can if anything. Thanks for caring

Update: after requesting their MSDS, it contains Denatonium Benzoate (really bitter) and would likely be difficult to wash out of your final product. It would be fine for things taken orally in a capsule, but while I don't know if it vaporizes, I wouldn't trust it in a smokeable product.
https://www.scribd.com/d...806110/Onyx-Acetone-MSDS

Denatonium benzoate should clean up with a pinch or two of activated charcoal. Aquarium supplies, before you ask.

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Hi all, finished my first attempt at EW's ACRB tek the other day, which seemed to be successful when I removed from the freezer.

Nice white crystals, though there was a fairly clear waxy coating on the bottom of the bowl which after leaving in front of a fan most of the spice melted into.(the spice on the sides was ok but being a flat bowl most was on the bottom and melted).

I'm hoping this is just plant oils that I didn't clean up properly?

I figured the easiest step would have been to put the naps back in and re-freeze again then when I pull out I could nick off the spice with a blade, before it starts melting, and put in a separate container to dry.

Or I could just re-do the cleanup steps.

But instead I just left the bowl out to evaporate and now I'm left with the waxy substance, still fairly clear with a very slight yellow tinge.

So my question is will all of the naptha evap off this wax if left long enough? Or is it harder to evap 100% when dealing with a wax.

My plan was to leave for another day or so, then add warm iso to melt the waxy substance, then add leaves for changa.

Any help is appreciated.
Acu.

IME scrape, spread, let alone overnight REPEAT. Do this until it begins to solidify. Eventually it will crytsalize. Takes longer than MHRB but if you are patient it will work. Did this for 7 days and I finally got crystals i could chop with the blade into powder. ACRB is more work but I love the result. I suspect something traps solvent. I tend to evap longer than most recommend with any material.

Ah right, I didn't realize it would solidify that's cool, I'll try your method. Thanks.

Hi folks! hope everyone has had a great start to the year thus far.

Iw as wondering if anyone knew if this type of toluene was okay to use for a mescaline extraction? click to enlarge picture.

thanks everyone! i sure hope i can use this

I was wondering about Jasco VM&P Naptha. I found an MSDS but it doesn't tell me much other than it's flammable etc. I'm not sure what to look for in regards to it being safe.

I looked up the MSDS for you. It wasn't hard to find with a quick google search. If you scroll down to the "Regulatory Information" section you'll see it says "This material contains Toluene (99% and 100%)", which means it should be fine to use.

Thank you very much for the reply! i Was never quite sure how to figure all this stuff out or exactly what iw as looking for on these sheets. but I have figured it out now thanks for your help. it came at the most synchronistic of times!

Hi all,
I recently found a good source of food grade fumaric acid,
but it apparently contains <= 10 ppm heavy metals.
To anyone with more knowledge is that a safe amount ?

<=10ppm

Less than or equal to ten parts per million. That sounds like the detection limit of the apparatus used, and considering 0.1% is one thousand parts per million, I'd say that's fairly acceptable for most purposes.

Welcome to the nexus, been here before?

Oh i see, so the actual content may be a lot smaller than that limit.

Thank you, and yes i've been a long lurker here and finally made a post for the first time.

Thank you for helping me out.

With all this talk of klean-strip having some weird additives now & bestine being out of business i am looking at some new options for solvent.

I appologize if this breaks any rules but i see several places on an auction site or two listing what is labelled as 99%+ purity solvents that appear almost too good to be true. The prices on this stuff is 1/3 or less than most other larger chemical supply companies are charging. It appears to be re-packaged & has some obviously cheap crappy labels stuck on the containers.

I am wondering if this stuff is safe to order & use or whether there is a reason it is so damn cheap & some information is being with-held by the sellers.

I am hesitant to post links/seller names here for obvious reasons.

The NPS is the only thing I have left to buy, can't get my hands on the de facto recommendation. So I'm trying to find something local with the appropriate MSDS.

Anyone care to fill me in which chemicals I should be looking out for?
Would either of these work?

https://ibb.co/j81T0v
https://ibb.co/bJ71Lv

edit1, more: https://ibb.co/cGWmLv

I'm really sorry to those who've seen these questions in waves, for years, but I didn't satisfactorily resolve this question yet. I'm obtaining the rest of my supplies, and have a question re: my NaOH; the msds for Comstar Pure Lye drain opener said it was 99.9% NaOH. Is this sufficient? Thanks in advance!

Also, Im hearing ppl say there are now additional additives in vm&p naptha now. Is it still sufficient? Thanks again!

I would think so. I just double checked my NaOH and the label reads 98%, so yours is better than mine.




Good question. I tend to go for Swan or Ronsonol myself, but whatever works! Try dripping a tiny drop on to a clean class surface and see if there's any residue after it evaporates, see for yourself

Ok great. I was going to do an evap. test myself but just wanted to see if anyone had any concrete info re: any or all brands of vm&p having additives it didn't, say 3 yrs ago. And with the NaOH in question, I know of others who've used it no problem, just was concerned with, much like the naphtha, of additives changing over time. The manufacturer says that the com star pure lye drain opener is good for soap and msds says 99.9% lye...