Hello Nexians! I'm new here but I have been a long time lurker...

Anyway, it's time to contribute now. What do you guys think of this idea:

Using the leftover basified root bark from your DMT extraction to make to make some home-made root bark soap?

I haven't tried this yet but the idea came to me as I was mid-way through a DMT extraction.

Seeing as I had my lye out I decided to make a batch of soap while I waited for my root bark to soak. Then I thought why not just add the right amount of oil or fat to my leftover basified root bark, top up with the extra lye needed and blend it for a while and start a saponification process.

Once this mix sets, cures and dries (in molds) the result would be like any other home-made soap but with shredded root bark or powder through it which could act as an excellent exfoliant. Plus the natural oils and fragrance from what ever root bark your using would give the soap it's own unique qualities

If you're not familiar with the soap-making process these two sites are a great resource:

https://www.brambleberry.com/
http://www.soapqueen.com/

I'll re-post my results as soon as I get a chance to test this idea out.

Cheers

EDIT: Making a few bars of 'acacia bark soap' or 'mimosa bark soap' could also act as a good alibi if anyone becomes suspicious of your 'DMT lab' at home.

Tepezcohuite soap actually contains Mimosa hostilis bark, although not the root bark. However, it absolutely will not provide any kind of protection against law enforcement if they decide to raid your home and find DMT suspended in the solution.

If law enforcement raids you, nothing will provide any protection aside from not having any DMT anywhere (or them not finding any). Lab equipment, lye, etc. can't get you into trouble, DMT in any form (from plant material to crystals) can and will, even without extraction equipment, but with it definitely. Whether you make soap or not is irrelevant from this viewpoint.

Anyway, soap is a pretty cool thing from a number of other perspectives. For one, you're not throwing out plant material and lye that can also be useful as soap. That said, what I find somewhat challenging in this is calculating the correct amounts required, but I'm still a beginner in soap.

Also, see here: https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/d...aspx?g=posts&t=69343

True, the soap story wouldn't do much for you against law enforcement... But it can certainly help avert those suspicious eyes coming from friends/family/house mates. If they ever ask about the lye in the cupboard or chemistry set in the kitchen you can just tell them about your new found passion in soap making and watch them get bored and walk away...




As for calculating the correct amounts of lye/oil, I came across this lye calculator which does it for you it's pretty handy when you're starting a batch of soap from scratch.

However things would get a bit more complicated when trying to make soap from DMT extraction leftovers... Given that the lye was added to an acidic solution (A/B) some of it would be converted into salt and figuring out how much lye is left-over would require some (fairly basic) stoichiometric calculations.

Once that's all figured out, you'd then have to adjust the lye/water concentration to suit the amount of oil you're using and then you'r all sweet to go


Note: I just realised that this isn't the first soap-making thread on the Nexus. I should of done a search. My bad guys...

sorry if i riesumate an old thread but, what's about the NPS left in the basic soup?
will it finish in the soap and smell when tou will use it after 3 month of soap drying?

That's exactly what I thought. Maybe it'll be better at shifting stubborn grease, though? Otherwise, use limonene for a delicious orangey scent.

A curious blend of resume, exhume and rejuvenate? Somehow we get your drift there.

Unless you left a lot of NPS, no. A splash of it should just evaporate.

I don't think making soap would work for an alibi, law enforcement KNOWS that people who take DMT don't use soap.

Not if you turn a beautiful purple
-sen

acacia confusa soap on the way

sorry if i doubt but are you talking for direct experience or just:
i suppose that it will evaporate?


please post photo of it, and... what NPS you used for the extraction? there was any leftover NPS in the soup?



i have to spend few words about this, coconut oil made soap is not skyn dring itself it becomes irritant and skin driing due to ignorance on work with it in fact soap salt derived from coconut
are ones of the less alkalines so less aggressive to the skin

So why in the soap making world always came out that coconut soap is irritant?

you should learn to use coconut oil infact it become stratified in the container that comes with...
i'll explain what i learned on a soap making website.

Coconut butter is composed by different acid fats that comes from the shortest: C8(caprilic),C10(capric) C12(lauric) to C18(stearic).
So lighter fats (c8-10-12) are less dense than C16 and c18 so when the coconut oil is liquid
in a container light fats float on heavier fats and when it becomes solid the fats became solid stratified.

what happens is that Saponify number of short chain fats (c8-c12) is much higher than long chain triglicerids so upper part of coconut butter container will have a higher SAP( more than 0,2) while the lower part will have a SAP lower than 0,14

If we only partially liquefy the solid coconut will first melt the lower part, in contact with heat, and then when we take liquid coconut oil it will have a SAP around 0.14-0.15, while we will use a value of SAP much higher (0.176) to calculate the amount of soda, with the result that our soap will be caustic and the poor unconscious coconut will bear the blame.

The higher the percentage of coconut oil in the soap the higher this error will bring unreacted lye in the resulting soap for this issue in the world of soapmaking most of the people says to keep the % of coconut oil down 20%

WE JUST HAVE TO MELT ALL OF THE COCONUT OIL in the container and mix it well before getting the necessary part for soapmaking

For sure the productor of coconut oil should have followed the same procedure because if not youwill have coconut oil with unknown SAP index so let's buy coconut oil just from trusted and professional sources who knows how to do their job because if not we can't avoid the problem.


Thanks

hello! im really interested in this and i would love to get some more information, since im into soap making,,,
i think its a really great idea, since it has so many good properties for the skin, and its also a nice way to avoid waste from extractions, everything is used, its a great way to be respectful to the plants and to mother earth itself.

i have for now one specific question that maybe someone can help me with.

i use the soapcalc website to give me the weight of all materials needed, but the fact is, that calculations work for recipes with plain water, and as we know, just a little change in the proportions can ruin the whole saponification process.....
so my question is, since the water will be mhrb tea it will have an extra weight, because of the alkaloids and everything that is in the tea. so how do I calculate the weight of the mhrb regarding the rest of the ingredients.

so for example if i use 500g of oils i will have to use 190g of water and 66g of naoH.
now imagining im using 100g of bark, the solution is well filtered, just bark tea, no plant matter, how can i find the right proportion of weight?

i hope i could make myself clear on my question, my english is to basic to articulate this complicated things perfectly.

thank you

Hi MDT, the water in soap making doesn't really matter, the water is just a way to make an emulsion with oils, in fact in the cured soap the water percentage is about 12/15% all the rest is going to eevaporate.

doesn't matter how much other stuff are in the water, the important thing is the ratio between lye and oils.

i suggest you to use distilled or osmotic water in soap making and then in extraction too in fact most of the ions present in tap water can contribute to fats rotten as water was highly reactive with other compounds.

don't care about what's in the water but remember that if the water for the extraction has be acidified some of the soda you add to make soap will transform in some salt and might contribute to a wrong balance in the soap making so make your own stechiometric maths.

another important thing is make soap starting with a minimum batch of 1000g of fats as smaller batch can have some problems in the gel phase.

i attached a file that can helps you in maths, is pretty complete i hope can be useful

aha! everything i needed to know thank you so much, i will post results as soon i get it done!

glad to help! really interested to get that results!
i'll going to make some soap with some mimosa bark... i'll share them too