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FLOWERING `YOTLE PICS Options
 
kemist
#1 Posted : 6/30/2009 8:15:11 AM

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So parrots are happy Smile Smile Smile because many of theirs lophophoras are flowering right now.

they wanna share this beauty with you guys over here. Enjoy !













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Seven
#2 Posted : 7/1/2009 9:12:00 PM

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wow, beautiful kemist!!! always wanted to grow some buttons. how easy are they to grow? do they need a certain climate, or could they adapt to certain summer/winter zones?
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kemist
#3 Posted : 7/5/2009 8:55:08 PM

John


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Seven wrote:
how easy are they to grow? do they need a certain climate, or could they adapt to certain summer/winter zones?


Extremely easy bro. The key is soil with good drainage.

Parrot was a bit overconcerned about drainage and his soil is draining as hell. He has no problem with rot or mould at all

They don`t need much water BUT in his soil in sunny and warm spring days he need to watered them TWICE A WEEK.Shocked Shocked Shocked

Keep in mind they growing in spring and autum , flowering in summer and sleeping in winter

This time he watering twice a month despite weather is warmer then was in spring.
He bet in autum he will need water them more often and there will be no water at all in winter.

Parrot growing them indoor in scotland on the windowsill facing east and they are as happy as the ones in mexico...Smile
As a kemist I never met ILPT in physical form and never talk to him. He share his wisdom, trough my mind, telepathicly only. Please don`t prosecute me, for his possible illegal activities. He is bonkers about chemistry and doesn`t even exist in this primitive reality !!!
 
soulfood
#4 Posted : 7/8/2009 10:38:06 PM

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As a complete ignorantoid when it comes to cultivating plants, what's a good method to ensure good soil drainage to grow beauties like these?
 
xvymil
#5 Posted : 7/9/2009 9:50:22 AM

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Good drainage is usually a soil with a 1/3 mixture of sand.
My recommendation would be 1/3 vermiculite, 1/3 sand and 1/3 peat moss (if you live in north america, that's easy). Vermiculite absorbs water, sand really doesn't (and is therefore good drainage) and peat moss provides some air for the roots while retaining water.

The best soil is also a sterile soil. You can cook the soil for 3-4 hours in the oven at 200C to kill off germs and bacterias if you compose your soil in the backyard. Although for seedlings you're really better off with sterile materials in the bag.

Green thumb trick; to setup a good pot, wet your soil in a separate container with some water to make it absorbent by playing with it. Good wetness is snowball capable dirt. But definitely not muddy. If you use peat moss and don't do that, it will never take the water.

Or just grab a bag of cactus soil at the supermarket, they're not that rare.

For Lophophoras, *apparently* a small addition of dolomite lime will benefit them.
Limestone seems to work as well as dolomite lime, I've seen some nice specimens living in crushed limestone from a river bed. Just make sure not to pick up any soil material from a salty beach area, the salt will eventually block all the nutrients in the soil. (Ah, not sure what the soil is in the pictures above, but that looks like a vermiculite/agrolite-covered soil).

Finally, lophophoras enjoy a basic soil around 7.5-8.5, depending on your water quality you might have some adjustments to make to get good nutrient absorption.

If you got a pH meter, that's easy to test and adjust. This is optional somehow. But it can definitely shed some light on bad growth if your tap water is acid though. I would check that first if you're starting with plants.

Based on that, you can also opt for San Pedros, they prefer acid environments. I personally find them more rewarding as growth material, faster, bigger, and in the end, just more and it's legal. Pleased

If growing from seeds, you can easily fit 50 to 100 seeds in a 4x4 container. With the germination rate factor and their growth, it should not get crowded before 2-3 years. Germinating seeds in too much soil can also make them feel pretty lonely ... they'll depress. These guys are social, pack them up !

I would also add that you shouldn't bother with 10-20 seeds. Increase your success ratio and pot 100 seeds in 2 or 3 pots (100 per pot). In the long run, you'll increase their survival rate.

The best containers are also those terra-cota, unglazed pots. 4-6 inches deep for seedlings, and perhaps 10 for big adults. Well... depending on the variety I guess. Fill the pots to 1-2 inches from the top and spread the seeds on *top* of the soil. You can then cover with one layer of white rocks (agrolite or crushed rocks), the whiteness provides good temperature control for the soil, some means against fungus and support for the seedlings. Furthermore, the whiteness allows the light to reach the top soil, which those babies require for germinating.

Williamsi is the one. The others are rather oddities.

Hope that helps. t'was My first post !
 
Bancopuma
#6 Posted : 7/9/2009 10:13:12 AM

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Great info...thanks.

To anyone who finds growing plants hard going...I would strongly suggest you start with cacti...once you get them past the seedling stage, they are really very tough indeed, and take up little space, and a few years down the line, will reward your efforts.

Eventually you will be able to take your own cuttings, graft, and breed seeds, and have a fully sustainable cactus farm, all on a window sill or two or a greenhouse. Cool
 
soulfood
#7 Posted : 7/13/2009 1:28:24 AM

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What's the best way to alter the pH of soil?

I have used a gaden centre bought cactus soil to pot a young peyote, only to read later that the soil I have used has a pH of 5-5.5?

The soil was quite moist right out of the bag and especially as it's just been re-routed I won't be watering it for at least a week or so, but is there a way to change the pH of the soil in use, or will I have to re-pot using a more suitable soil?
 
 
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