Thanks for the reply mate!
Just had one more question, I followed ew's acacia tek with the mini A/B and just finished my freeze precip. It has been in-front of the fan for about 3 hours and the crystals look snow white, beautiful and fluffy, but beneath/between them is a very sticky, thick and completely translucent goo. Is this just NMT or something else? Couldn't see anyone with the same issue after the second A/B.

Are you using naptha or xylene? If your using xylene it could be extra plant oils

I used naptha, the goo beneath the crystals appeared completely translucent when in the precip dish, but now that I have scraped it, it's more of a very light yellow/beige wax. Was thinking this may be due to me heating my base solution for my second A/B or over extracting? If you reckon it's plant fats I'll do a re-X, but if its NMT I'm certainly not adverse to the combo. Whatever it is, it's very sticky and hard to scrape. any insight would be greatly appreciated

I haven't ever heated my base soup in my mini a/b and I use the same tek with amazing results every time. I have read that heating the basic soup in a mini ab could allow for some plant fats to be carried over but I believe that was a very old thread so that could have been disproven by now. Either way tho that wax/crystal should be very potent as is, so unless you want aesthetically beautiful crystals your good where you are and a re-x would pretty those baby's up in no time too if that's what you want

Awesome thanks for the info mate! Think it's about time for a taste test

Sorry I have lots of questions, I"m confused on a lot of things.

I've done multiple extractions on kratom and everytime I evaporate my solvent I get nothing. I only have ph test strips(waiting in the mail for my electronic).

https://www.dmt-nexus.me...spx?g=posts&m=445352 I followed this one except I used sodium carbonate and xylene. I see that there is no defatting step in this guide, so I do not need to do that? Also I noticed if I don't filter the plant matter before trying to add solvent I never see any layer seperation, is this because of my solvent? But I do see the layer seperation when I use it on a filtered solution.

I soaked the solution in 50/50 water/vinegar for an hour using a hot water bath, I filtered the solution. I added sodium carbonate to get a ph of about 11-13(the colors look so similair i couldn't tell on the strip) I then added the xylene stirred for a few minutes, I waited about a minute and there was a clear layer seperation that looked like mountain dew, I sucked that out with a glass dropper and let dry on a glass cooking plate, it evaporated and nothing was there.

Anyone have any tips for me? I've done probably 8 different extractions and all failed.

You only mixed once? You should always mix at least 3x for several minutes each. Don't shake the ever loving crap out of it, but do mix them very very intimately.

As well, you should have kept your basic solution, so do it again. If you have already discarded this, I have included an excerpt from Zubrick's Organic Chemistry Survival Manual entitled Never Ever Land:

Ok I'm doing a thc extraction, I just washed some ground up herb 3 times with naptha and evaporated. Is it okay to smoke now? Or is further purification needed?

This is the fictional story my friends fish told me the last time I saw him:

"

I tried the FASA method for the first time and something musht have gone wrong (aka I fucked up)

To start, I got my MHRB from REMOVED in shredded form. I ground it all to a fine powder with some fibers in a blender.

Acetone was dried with anhydrous MgSO4, and with that a saturated citric and fumaric solution was made.

I took 200g of the powder(I hate very small scale extractions so I went with 200g since it seemed like enough to not be inefficient from filtering, recrystalization, ... loses (I didn't want to have to scrape miligams of DMT from filter paper)

200g of MHRB was placed in a jar and covered with CASA solution, enough that it was about 2cm above the plant material when it settled. Mixing every 45min I waited about 2,5h per pull and did 4 pulls so far. Every pull provided me with some dark red colored liquid which I then filtered to remove any remaining plant material. What remained was about 0,8L of red acetone, the color was intense and even with a very bright light it was impossible to see trough the container.

Being paranoid about possible water from the air getting in to my acetone,I opened the jar and placed it in a container with about 100g of magnesium sulphate and closed the lid. After 12h the sulphate gained an aditional 1,3g in weight which was presumably water acetone pulled from the air and from the plant material from the extraction.

Satisfied with the fact that I had 0% water in my acetone now, I added 200mL of FASA which contained about 1,4g of fumaric acid. It was not dropwise as I was concerned about water again so I just dumped it all in, not caring about pretty crystal formation as I was going to make freebase anyway.

A bit more than 2 days later I poured off the liquid (in another container of course) and scraped what looked like very shitty oily crystals from the bottom. They were not yellow but red. After drying (it fells dry and does not smell of acetone but could probably wait some more) I was left with about 0.65g of red material. It feels like some very good hash if you know the texture - a soft piece of tar that I can bend without it sticking to my fingers. It's not see trough, in fact from 30cm away it looks like a black piece of tar, only when you flatten it in a thin sheet can you see the vibrant red color. Which is see tough (no plant matter).


Considering 200g were used this seems a bit shit, with people reporting 1-2% yields, and this is a 0.325% yield and even that is in the fumarate form so in reality its less than 0.3%. Where did I fuck up? Will more dmt appear at the bottom? I'm going to do some more pulls but my acetone guy screwed me the last second so I didn't have any acetone to do a few more pulls so that's happening tomorrow since my acetone is drying now.

Another thing, how do you people recycle the acetone afterwards? Considering you use an excess of fumaric acid every time you have to remove it somehow before adding it to a fresh batch of MHRB. Should I just use a base to salt it out somehow?

Any help is very much appreciated, and I'm glad to provide more information about the extraction.

"

... what a clever fish!

Considering 10 days have past from the last post and I have some new information I hope that this double-post is OK.

I have managed to improve the piss poor yield by using a bit more acetone, waiting more time (be very very patient and don't throw anything away) while I can't talk about exact quantities as some of the FASA + DMT citrate is still reacting, but there is noticeably more DMT this time.

But a problem still persists, my fumarate goo (which later hardens when all remaining traces of acetone evaporate) is very poorly soluble in water??? Also it's red, it was supposed to be white to yellow needle like crystals not this. There definitely are some crystals since it is shinny like glitter.

I have tired adding it to water and stirring the shit out of it for hours, adding Na2CO3 saturated solution, mixing very well and then adding ether (the dmt freebase should have dissolved in ether) mixing the shit out of it and waiting for two layers to form and remaing and evaporating the ether which yielded jack shit (5-10mg freebase from 500mg of fumarate). Just to be sure I evaporated everything (should be left with freebase+excess Na2CO3), and then adding anhydrous acetone to the dry mix (again hoping to dissolve the freebase) after separating the acetone and evaporating it I was left with jack shit again (15mg this time).

What the hell is going on? I'm including some pictures so hopefully someone can explain this sorcery.

Bottom of of container covered 5 days after adding FASA

Goo from first picture after acetone wash, it seems to "melt" until the last tiny amounts of acetone are evaporated.

After dissolving goo in water, filtering and evaporating the water

Finally after scraping the material from the last picture with a razor:

The odd thing is the goo was dissolved in water, filtered and now the material which has been dissolved in water earlier for the filtration does no longer dissolve in water after drying???

Hi everyone, just two days ago I attempted my first DMT extraction using Q21Q21's tek (using naptha). It has been a success in the sense that the extraction has yielded a product, however it's only 300mg of it from 115 grams of Mimosa Hostilis root bark, which says to me it's a little under par.
So, I shall give a very brief run down of how I went about this tek and maybe someone can point out where I'm going wrong. I still have the bark mush, so if its not too late, maybe I can salvage something?

Procedure (Brief)
1. Ground up bark, very close to powder.
2. Put in some white wine vinegar until bark was clumpy, then added some near boiling water until the mush flowed. (left this for around 1hr)
3. I then chucked in some calcium hydroxide and attempted to make the right consistency. I ended up with something that looked like thick oat meal.
4. I left the basified bark just less than 24 hrs to do it's thing.
5. Then I made a hot water bath in the sink by tipping in boiled water and placing the basified bark on top. I waited for the mush to warm up then chucked in the naptha.
6. i periodically stirred the naptha around in the bark mush then, after 5-10mins, poured it off into my precip dish.
7. i put this in the freezer and reaped the rewards approx 15hrs later which yielded 300mg of white powder. I expected it to be waxy but it was fairly dry. It was like snow and burnt quite a bit when I tasted it. This has to be dmt freebase!

Anyway, I've done two pulls since then and had nothing. Ive tried adding more base as I heard that naptha lowers the Ph. Below are a few questions, please let me know if you spot any obvious reason why I'm going wrong here.

1. could adding more base have ruined my mush?
2. My mush isn't grey underneath and forming a "dark top" anymore. Is this an issue? Should it be?
3. The container I'm using is a white ceramic (im pretty sure??) baking tray, I'd like to think it heated the naptha up sufficiently but if it didnt, is this the problem? How hot is it supposed to be? hot hot? luke warm?
4. I've tried different consistencies, so i tried one that flowed a little more and one that was more like "moist dirt" as instructed in another thread. I have to say, the previous consistency was the one where i actually yielded something. could this be an issue? how important is the consistency? is it just important for solvent loss or is it about yield too?
5. I've had my bark for approximately 10months and it came from a well known vendor from the netherlands, so I'm sure its decent stuff. Could my bark be old? i didnt have it in an airtight baggie but i did have it in a long jar.

Thanks for any help in advance.

SWIM made a batch of DMT using this tek here. Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m...d_ATB_'Salt'_Tek

But SWIM suspected that some lye or salt got mixed in with the Naphtha/DMT mix at the end, since he saw what was some kind of lump/crystal on the glass right after pulling it from the base. So SWIM wants to know is it possible for DMT crystals to form immediately after extracting it and putting it on the glass pan. Cause if not that just might have been lye or salt either of which SWIM doesn't want to smoke. Thoughts?

Thanks.

Spice crystals take a time to grow, they do not form immediately.
Cooling/cold is the main factor here.
Making the naphta warm will dissolve all potential spice into the naphta, if that lump remains it will sure not be spice.
A carbonate wash will take a ton of potential impurities out of the naphta. If you pull very warm the more chances impurities come along with the pulling.
I hope this helps a bit.

Thanks. Yeah SWIM made the pull while the mixture was still warm. So SWIM will end up pulling it out of the freezer and let it warm and try to just take it out by hand. If that doesn't work then perhaps SWIM should use a carbonate wash.

Though I found a place where it says that the impurities tend to come out when the naphtha is warm. https://www.dmt-nexus.me...&m=313819#post313819

But SWIM thinks that your likely right on this one. For one you have most posts than he does and second it just makes sense that warmer mixture will cause it to mix better. So SWIM will take it out of the freezer and get some sodium carbonate for the wash. Also SWIM is so worried that the lye will be harsh on his throat lungs that he will be using it every time now for his extraction teks.

Thanks a lot mate.

i think we need to help people with making sure they are using the right products. i get certain things arent allowed here but we should at least tell people when they are using wrong stuff that contains no chemicals worth extraction. Ive already read too many problems or seen no help in that area imo. so Lets use this section for helping the new comer get on the right track . Maybe post some pictures of what real MHRB looks like different types and post about more so on what NOT to use. thanks guys i hope this is helpfull to everyone. just tryin to help on an issue had problems and continue to have with so there ya go.

'We' have been doing that for many, many years. Maybe instead of posting the first thing that comes to your mind you should spend some time researching the FAQ, Wiki, Chat, past forum threads, etc. This is not Twitter nor Facebook... Most members here attempt to put some thought into their posts instead of digging up years-old threads to fill them with unnecessary emoticons.

From the Attitude: Critical thinking and basic autonomy

If you are in doubt about impurities like salt or lye in your freeze precipitated product, you can simply redissolve the possibly tainted crystals in fresh hot naphtha. Heat the naphtha in a pre-prepared hot water bath, not on a stove or open flame. Use a minimal amount of hot naphtha to redissolve the crystals and decant the solution from whatever is left and will not dissolve. Let the decanted solution cool to room temperature and put in the freezer. This will clean up your crystals from any lye, salt or carbonate contamination. The naphtha that is left over from this recrystallization still contains a little dmt, you can evaporate it (will give less good looking crystals, but still free from lye etc.) or reuse it for another extraction.

After doing SWIM research SWIM found out that in his country is very hard to get his hands in some pure Naphta or this VM&P that ppl usually use. The closest to Naphta that SWIM got was Aguarrás (Turpentine, as the Portuguese-English translator said).
SWIM researched about turpentine and STB extraction methods and saw some people doing it and being ok with that while some others don't recommend it. Right in the moment he is doing an evaporation test with the solvent, but as he's still a newbie in extracting (one month researching, and two days in the nexus) SWIM would like to confirm if just the evap test is OK to prove that he can use that solvent.

Here's the chemical composition of the product SWIM have in his hands: Aliphatic hydrocarbons , with tiny fraction of aromatic.

And searching deep in the internet about the product SWIM found an more detailed composition that he's not 100% it's true but it seems legit:

% Concentration

Heavy hydrodesulfurizated naphta : 64742-82-1 0 – 100

Kerosene 8008-20-6 0 – 100

Benzene 71-43-2 ” 0,1

This is my first manifestation in the forum, I already read the FAQ, the ATITUDE section and a bunch of posts of my interest, If i'm asking something already been asked I'm really sorry about that, I swear I searched this.

Thank you!

Hi! I could use some help with a my rue extraction...
I soaked 50g of syrian rue seeds in 3% acetic acid (water+apple vinegar) twice and cooked them once in some water. Decanted half-assedly due to lack of equipment and filtered a few times, first through a cloth, then a coffee filter and finally a tea filter. Then i heated it and reduced it to about 100ml. After that it needed some more filtering. The brew was still rather murky but i figured it was okay since it passed easily through the filters. Then i heated it up to a near boiling temperature and added salt. At first about 20g/100ml, then some more because it dissolved easily. Let it cool and put it in the fridge. Filtered 24h later...

--->
Here's the problem: only some reddish brown liquid went through the filter, and the supposed harmala extract is a large amount of brown gunk, no crystals as far as i can see. (It's not just impure harmalas, but really like 20 grams or so of dirt.) How can i save this extraction? I was thinking of dissolving the gunk in acidified water and then basing. How much water and sod. carb. should i use for that? Any other suggestions? What might have gone wrong?

Thanks

https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m...ion_and_Separation_Guide

^^^That is the method I used to learn how to extract from Syrian Rue. Follow it to a T and you will get great results. Once I mastered that method I moved onto this:

Harmalas extraction-syrian rue (by SAKKADELIC)

My steps can be found on page three of that thread but I would recommend reading it through from the beginning to the end. I eventually got a ~6% yield from 300g Syrian rue.

BTW, from what I have learned and understand, most people (including myself) do not perform a manske until after at least one or more A/B transition(s). Also, to get the most out of your seeds, you'll need to do multiple boils, combine and reduce. I did 7x1 hour boils on the 300g which is likely overkill. But if you want the best results, follow the teks (whichever you choose, there are many).