On a constructive note:
SpiritWalker wrote:...What would you add or subtract from the tek?
* As pointed to before: mimo is stronger as acacia. Mimo has more n,n and has no modulating nmt that acacia has. Personally, 12 gr of acacia is ok, but I'd not go for 12 mimo, a 7 mimo gives IMO all I need (ymmv). For first timers probably even half of that like 3.
So in general in the document mimo and acacia is placed as equal, it's not so.
* 4 to 5 gr rue is a lot especially if adding caapi was recommended like in the pdf. I modestly suggest 3 - 4 gr without caapi. 1 gr makes a big difference in these areas imo. It's not only about the psychedelic impact but also about preventing
premature purges, those purges can also be alleviated by making a tea from the rue instead of the suggested grind raw material intake.
* If it was very finely shredded to powdered material the suggested cooking times are fine, like 12 hours total, actually more is better, always. But if it is grossly shredded like from toothpicks and larger, longer cooking times are required to get the job done for best result. It's impossible to cook too long and for caapi the forming of THH is promoted as believed due longer cooking.
In that pdf I really like the long period of personal preparation recommended, so there is room enough for doubling your boiling times in case of grossly shredded wood.
that pdf file wrote:Step 1: Add 2 to 3 liters of water to each stainless steel pot and bring to 205
degrees. Do NOT allow the water to get over 212 degrees at any time. The
alkaloids will burn and your brew will be weak. Use the digital thermometer to
bring to a perfect temperature then reduce heat to maintain.
There's no reason to stay away of heavy boiling, you cannot burn the actives as long as there is water in the pot. It's a false alarm. Economic reasons are legit to not overly boil.
that pdf file wrote:Step 2: Use 1 tablespoon of liquid vitamin C in each pot. Stir well. Check the pH using the pH meter and adjust with more vitamin C until you reach an optimal pH
of 3.8 – 3.5. Always adjust pH after the water is heated otherwise the pH will drop
I've never worked with vitamin C myself but I question how the pH can drop further down by heating? If you measured in hot water then it's normal that the reading drops while the actual pH stay the same, this happens if there is no automatic temperature correction in the measurement present. For example pH 3.5 at 25 deg C (77F) heating to 75 deg C (167 F) then the reading drops with 0.5 pH, while actual pH was same. So to ensure good pH reading cool down sample to same temp as in reference (if you have no separate temperature probe on your pH meter, no ATC)
So first: I don't believe the pH truly can drop by heating alone, please enlighten me if it can. Do you mean by evaporating volume, then the acid concentrates?
Second, it said:
if pH dropped correct pH:
You need a base to rise pH again, no word on that in the doc?
These are meant only positive constructively, and got my ego finely in control
I really like the spirit in the document pdf, the neat outline, the positive vibrancy, the good intentions ... There are just a load of facts that could be tweaked and I hope this takes place so to make a gem diamond guide