HI dude! I would've answered earlier if i'd seen your post. I live in the UK and i use ronsonol lighter fluid, which is "light naphtha". Zippo and others are fine to use, but are generally hydrotreated heavy, which basically makes evap times take forever and doesn't allow the spice to come out easily during freeze precip. Any naphtha will work tho, just some better than others. Petroleum distillate is essentially naphtha... just worded differently. I hope that helps somewhat

Forgot to say, you have to use new solvent each time you want to recrystallize...

Hello, was hoping someone could help my friend. SWIM just tried his first extraction using the Marsofold tek on 1 lb of MHRB. He believes himself to have followed the tek to the T. However his yield is VERY low. The first pull only yielded ~70 mg's, ...though the crystals were bright white. The second pull was done in a baking dish rather than a jar and after freeze precip. is drying out/evapping...but yield looks similarly low. (SWIM wasn't exactly sure how to do a second pull, so he just put another 250 ml's naptha into the jug etc)

The only thing SWIM can think to have done differently was perhaps to squeeze out the goop after the first step, as he pretty much just scooped the gooey stuff right out of the crockpot and into the trash after pouring off the liquid.

At any rate, my friend really needs your help and would be very appreciative.

Is your friend's bark from a well known vendor, which is known to give good results? Bunk bark could be the problem. Did he/she evap the naphtha down a bit before freezing? A good test is to blow on the naphtha after pulling. If it goes cloudy then you are usually good to go. Did he/she swirl/roll the naphtha into the base mix enough to allow the DMT to get "caught" in the solvent? There are many factors which come into play when doing extractions. If you supply some more info i might be able to help a bit more

Thanks DoingKermit! But is it possible for naphtha to be too light and not absorb DMT enough? For example I've found something called Primus Powerfuel which is a mixture of light naphtha and pentane, so it's as light as it can get. Do you think it would be suitable or should I use ronsonol?

SWIM believes the vendor to be reputable, it is powdered MHRB from "100 H***G*****" SWIM did not evap before freezing...is it beneficial to do so? SWIM only tilted the jug back and forth the first time, but shook vigorously for ~30 seconds on the second pull.

Though a puny amount was extracted, it is in fact active...*shrug*

SWIM is definitely thankful for your help.

Just stick to ronsonol. All ways does the trick for me. I don't think the naphtha can be too light, but scientifically, since heavy naphtha actually pulls more spice (just doesn't freeze-precip very well), and light pulls less (but is great for freeze p), it could be the case, but you would only need to do a few extra pulls with warm naphtha to get all the goods out, even if you are using lighter naphtha than the norm... if that's possible. You wouldn't get nothing out of your bark basically.

I am extremely tired, so i hope that wasn't too confusing to read

Hi vibe! Doesn't sound like you mixed the naphtha into the base mix enough. I usually roll the jar around for a minute at a time (letting rest between shakes) and i do that about 5 or 6 times within an hour. I do it just to make sure i'm getting the yummy stuff into my naphtha. If you are only rolling it once before pulling, then i suggest doing it at least 4 times before you pull it.

It can be necessary to evap before freezing to make it more concentrated allowing the crystals to fall out easily. I think if you do both those things, you should be fine. Let me know how it works out!

Hey there, my friend tried what you recommended and got ~400mg's of fluffy purty white spice from the pull!! He's pretty excited..and wanted me to thank you. Not sure if that's an average amount for a single pull or not, but my friend is still happy with it.

He had another question for you (or anyone else who knows/cares to answer). He's heard the term "virgin naptha" before on these forums, and from the few pulls he's done, he usually has some naptha leftover after filtering it through a coffee filter and has combined all of the leftover naptha into a 1-quart jar. Is it okay to do a pull with this naptha, or should he just buy some more?

You can re-use the naptha, it might even have some dmt left in it so I'd think it's even better to use than "virgin" naptha?

Hello.

SWIM is doing it's first (STB-)extraction with MHRB and would like to know does naptha, hydrotreated heavy (CAS #64742-48-2) do it's job? A FOAF suggested doing waterbath (= Mix couple dl of warm water with the naptha, mix well, let them separate and then get the water out and use the naptha for the project) for the naptha SWIM could get. If SWIM has understand everything this heavily hydrotreated naptha takes ages (if using fan SWIM assumes the time drops) when evaporating as SWIM can't use freezer.

Hope you understood the text and thanks! (:

Yes it does. Heavy naphtha pulls more spice from the bark than the light one, but can't be precipitated. Since you are going to evaporate anyway it will do fine. It can take a while to evaporate, so you'll need patience.

Is it safe to use Primus Power Fuel for extraction?

How do i make a gram?
I don't have big enough jars, and according to Nomans guide i should use 1.5, 2X the water normally used when working with pre powdered rootbark, so i don't know how to do a big extraction...

What do you guys do?

Unfortunately, no matter what extraction method used, you will likely end up using 10+ml of solvent per gram of material. And then you need the appropriate containers to handle said solvent.

There are two ways to minimize this:

Do an A/B. Separate the acid washing step into several smaller washes (probably no more than 500g powder at once), and evaporate the washes as you go along. Unfortunately this entails reducing several gallons of water to at most a couple liters. This will take a LONG time and depending on which acids you use, may make your house reek of the acid you're using.

If you can buy a few 12-packs of mason jars, the FASA method seems like one that "scales up" well as there are no polar/non-polar exchanges and thus increasing volumes doesn't increase the effort as much.

Seriously though, the more plant matter you try to process at once, the lower your yields will be. It's best to hold off on doing large batches until you have done MANY smaller batches. Once you're dialed in some good yields on smaller experiments, you can carry those skills to minimize your losses on the larger batches.

Dreamers who have never bothered to reduce their strained ayawaska down to a couple of shot glasses size until now might be wondering about all the stuff that sticks to the bottom and sides of the pan upon reduction from 3L to 7cl. Should this stuff be scraped off and drunk, or does it not contain any active chemicals? Thanks

After you have strained your Ayahuasca, you will still have minor particulate matter in your brew. When you reduce the volume from liters to the quantity you're going to drink, this particulate matter will still be present and in a greater proportion (you've boiled off water while the sediment remains). This sediment should be consumed with (and considered to be part of) the brew.

If you do a SERIOUS straining (perhaps with science filters, though several coffee filters may do) and then let the tea sit overnight in the fridge and then CAREFULLY pour it off without disturbing the sediment at the bottom of your container. You should have eliminated almost all of the particulate matter, without losing very much dmt.

Then you're free to reduce the solution and swig away.

IMO thought, it's better NOT to do this. Eat the gunk, it's a part of the experience, and I'm sure that whatever non-dmt components are left in the sludge contribute to the experience.

Thanks!

SWIM has the same problem!

SWIM has done his first extraction today with several containers and has produced spice from one container that is slightly green. He used a different lighter fluid in the other containers and they have produced a dark yellow/orange result.
SWIM thinks that the yellow/orange spice can be explained by too much heating. He would like to know if it is ok to smoke even if it has a dark yellow color. Or could somebody point him to threads that give advice on how to clean out the mess?

What about the greenish spice? Is it possible that he used lighter fluid with additives? Does someone have advice for which naphta to buy that is available in Germany?
Somking the greenish stuff is probably not a good idea, is it?

SWIM would be happy if you could help him through his learning stage.

wow, no way in hell SWIM would ever ever smoke green dmt, yuck.. The general way to clean spice is recrystalization but considering that the aditives were dissolved in a similar solvent in the first place, I dont know how much of it will be cleaned and how much will remain in your final product even after successive re-x...

thats why its always recommended to first make an evap test with whatever solvent you plan on using.

I've heard in germany naphtha is called Waschbenzin, but im not 100% sure.. Check all sorts of hardware stores in the solvent/paint section, read labels, check internet if there is more detailed info on the specific brands you can find.. Also in bigger cities in general its easier to find some laboratory/chemical supply stores..

I would say forget these fuel naphthas, since they are for fuel, they can add tons of stuff and not specify on the labels too much because they dont expect people to use for products they will smoke/consume. try to find the real deal..

good luck