I have a question about q21q21 tek:
https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m...ion_Tek#Non-polar_Wash:

here:
"Step 2: Mix so the solvent contacts all the bark-mush as thoroughly as possible, it should not mix into the bark and should remain transparent. "

What mean "not mixed in the bark" ? how can avoid that if i'm mixing it ? sorry it's my english, i don't understand well, if someone can explain me...Thanks.

Another thing i would like to try this tek with vegetable oil instead of limonene, there're any advice for using it in the tek ? or i just go ?

Thanks
:-)

The solvent will sit on top of the bark. It needs to be mixed well so that it makes contact with as much bark as possible. The directions are not super clear but Q21Q21 means that d-limo or whatever solvent you were using will sit on top of the bark which can be decanted or sucked up with a turkey baster or pipette after the mixing is done.

I don't know about using vegetable oil. I would just stick to the tek to be on the safe side. d-Limonene is a great non-polar solvent in my experience.

Ok, so i can use a large container and don't disturb the soup, only let go the solvent around on the top.

I don't find limonene yet, i get info then if i find it ok otherwise i try with vegetable oil.

Thanks

You still need to mix the soup/bark mixture after adding the solvent. After mixing the solvent it will settle on top. You can use a large container but more narrow ones work better.

Ok, it's more clear now, thanks

Hey there !

To make things simple for you i would suggest you to read a bit of chemistry in order to ully explain the process.

Just like you, i had similar problems, this exact same one. The naphta or xyelene or d-limo you will be pouring in the dark mushy mixture which consists of lets say vinegar water bark and lime is non-polar solvent. This means that it will NOT MIX with the bark consistency ( which from personal expirience you should make dry and crumbly, that is why it is called a dry tek duuuuuh ). So make the mixture as dry as possible so you could easily mix/swirl the NPS ( non-polar solvent) with the mixture. Do not get me wrong, by dry i mean dry enough so it is easier for you to pour off the nps once the 'pulling' step is complete and the risk of getting bark particles in the solvent dish container are lowered. Depending whether you use powdered or shredded the physical consistency should be different, do mind. Consistency in my opinion should be wet enough so that you can imaginably form clumps of it in the form of balls. Hmmmm just like when you go to the seaside and you make a wet sand ball to throw it at your mates ?

Anyways i tried to write it in the most understandable way because i, myself understand that am not perfect with my english. If you still have some questions left, fire away !

Basically, you want it thick and not too dry. If it becomes too dry it will absorb a lot more solvent. You will lose some solvent no matter what.

The trick is finding the right consistency between too wet and too dry = thick ...

At least that is what I have found to work well.

Ok, like a very gentle mixing, not deep or shake, i take a spoon and mix gently not too deep...for the consistency i've understand :-)

Last question, after salting the solvent and separate, i have to evaporate and make freebase conversion with sodium carbonate etc etc... but can the winegar leve some unwanted product when evaporate ? let me dmt acetate and impurity from winegar ? if yes how i can get rid of it ? using another acid for salting ?

It needs to be at the right consistency BEFORE you add your solvent.

Have you considered trying the freebasing technique that involves evaporating your vinegar with heat? The heat breaks apart the acetic acid bond and vaporizes the acetate out of material leaving behind your freebase.

You could do that ^^^ using a temperature controlled food dehydrator or suspending your dish with DMT acetate above a pot of boiling water (make sure it doesn't make contact with the pot). The steam will heat the DMT acetate up just enough so that the acetic acid bond vaporizes but leaves behind freebase DMT.

I suppose you could salt out your DMT with a different acid if you wanted to.

Yes, i read about frebase with heat, but i read also isn't a proved way, and maybe can't work so well, i prefer the conversion with sodium carbonate and then pull, i think it's more safe.

...like this one:
https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m...ep_6-Acetates_conversion

Yes, indeed that will work.

Tek 2: The Fluffy White Funfest is the best for me. And its fast check it here in my thread.

yes, i would like to use non toxic solvent.

What country are you from, xa? I apologize if you have mentioned it before, my memory is terrible sometimes!

But I only ask because if we know what country you are in, it may be easier for us to help you find a suitable food safe solvent available in your area...

I can find online in my country, but i would like to search in my area, till i didn't asked so much, for now i experiment with traditional tek, for learn more the basics, in the meanwhile i get info, i like the idea to use vegetable oil because one can extract with common thing that around every house :-) but, if i try a nontoxic tek i try with limonene first.

Alright, it sounds like you have a good plan! Good luck, xa! Let us know how everything turns out!

Wishing you the best!

It should probably be pointed out that the this is a drytek so what you are doing is making a dough from your powdered bark and vinegar/water and lime. I found the dough analogy helpful, think like cookie dough or bread dough, or as stated previously wet sand. Consistency makes all the difference in a tek like this.

Any vegetable oil can be used directly in place of limonine but an extra pull or two is advised because the oil is less efficient than limo. It's also recommend to perform a sodium carbonate wash on the oil prior to the acid salting step for cleaner product (the oil picks up a lot of plant material that is best washed out).

I've found the heat conversion to be quite inefficient and leaving an acetate goo that is quite hard on the lungs to smoke. Vinegar often contains a lot of impurities (try evapping it sometime). I recommend using pure water and a pure acid like citric, ascorbic, or fumaric. You'll still have to do the base and pull into alcohol or acetone step to get nice clean freebase though.

Technically you can skip the whole oil pulling and salting process and just proceed straight to alcohol/acetone pulls if you want an easier route. Check out this tek for moar info (though do keep in my recommendation to replace the vinegar with a cleaner acid in this method as well).

Hope that's helpful, best of luck in your endeavors

Thank you dreamer for clearing things up for us. The heat conversion appeared to have worked for me but I have always been a bit skeptical on the whole process. Normally, I would take my (supposedly freebased) goo and make changa out of it and smoke it through a regular water bong. Perhaps that is why the harshness has been minimized...? For this reason/skepticism I made the switch to Q21Q21's fluffy white fun fest. It has been magical! Anyway...

I would love to be able to replace vinegar with a cleaner acid. Probably citric as that is most easily obtainable for me.

It is also interesting that vegetable oils can work in place of d-limonene, not to mention vegetable oils are much less costly than D-limonene.

Thanks again for the info!

Yes, thank dreamer, i write down this tips, now it's all more logic, eco tek, maybe are more long but i can do it in my house without ask or buy online solvent and strange thing, i can use plastic safely (i suppose that vegetable oil don't dissolve it)...the only thing can be acetone, but it'a used also as nails cleaner, and one can use drinking alcool...sound good to me, i need more practice.