I've seen a grafting tek around about grafting a Pedro scion on to a dragon fruit stock, can't seem to find it again, can this be done?
I have lots of dragon fruit vines and I am thinking about grafting one of my torches. I'm new to grafting as well and am in the research stage of this project, any advice would be more than appreciated.

Neme.

I should have been more clear in the first post, I was looking if Hylocereus undatus (dragon fruit) was good stock for grafting, I found the list of acceptable graft stocks in the grafting sticky and its on there.

Besides the obvious, what is the difference between temporary and permanent stock, does this mean that the Hylocereus has to stay with the scion permanently or can the two be separated once the target growth is achieved?

Kada has a great website that talks about all kinds of grafting stock:

http://www.kadasgarden.com/Cgraftingstocks.html

Grafting is like riding a bike, you just have to do it to learn.

Thanks WAP, I've checked kadas grafting page recently and am rechecking it again.

Kind of figured I should just jump right in, I prefer to learn that way. But there is something to be said about listening to experience

Definitely

I wish I could help you with the Hylocereus undatus questions but I've only used pereskiopsis and San Pedro as root stock.

I'll start seedlings on pereskiopsis and once the graft is big enough switch them over to San Pedro or root them out on their own.


wap

I now have a cutting of Hylocereus rooting and should be strong enough in about 3 weeks to a month, they root easily from cuttings, I plan on using a 2cm sion from one of my torch seedlings that are about an inch tall, should I keep the stock in hopes that new tops will grow from it? Or is it too small for that?

Keep them, they'll send out pups as long the roots are healthy.

Hylocereus is only good for small scions, so yours will work. Once it grows some you can cut it, leaving a few inches, and root the top cut. The bottom will them grow more branches for you to cut and root.

Here's what I do when grafting to hylocereus. Sorry for the all the photos. Just some examples.

Plant the cutting. Let it establish a bit. One it sprouts a pup let it grow till it's about .5" tall. It will still be very soft at this stage and will take the graft much better. Cut the top off the pup and place your seedling on it intersecting the cores. Place in humidity in low light for 2 weeks. Do not water much during this whole thing. Maybe once a few days before the graft and once a week after the graft. Then after 2 weeks start watering frequently again. They love lots of water and rich soil. After 2 weeks take the graft out of humidity, but keep it in indirect light for another week. After that week bring it back to it's normal lighting. It should take by then.

I am so glad you chimed in Hostilis, I still have my original Hylocereus stock that puts out pups constantly, is it a good idea to graft to something that established? by the sound of your method you'll want the stock and the scion to establish together?

Thanks for the input.

Btw, I admire your work and will probably pick your brain often

currently i use pereskiopsis spathulata as a stock plant - i have hundreds, if not thousands of hylocereus atm (am farming dragon fruit) and i will try some peyote graphts soonest.

I would love to see what you have going on phlux- I only have two hylocereus sets for fruiting indoors, also I've been experimenting with using hylocereus as an extrinsic species invitro host (probably not realistic, but one never knows)

The more established the root system the better!! This is my method for propagation/grafting at the same time though. Pereskiopsis work great for trichocereus, but dragon fruit also works. I use pereskiopsis mainly for trichs and lophs, but selenicereus, acanthocereus, hylocereus, ect... I like for astrophytum and ariocarpus (ect...)

P.S. I'm not really sure what you mean by that last part. Lol. Not familiar with the terminology.

lol, I just put a few words together that I thought might confuse the hell out of you, basically I'm trying to germinate a torch seed inside/beside the hylocereus vascular Cambriam, an if it does, its my hope that the two might fuse together.

It might be a silly idea but I have the materials to try it out anyways, if successful would you suggest a better name? Has it already been done?

I thought I was doing well to get a few roots to grow on some cuttings!

What I am seeing here completely blows my mind...this is like seeing a tree that grows blue bananas, it doesn't seem possible but yet here it is. Fascinating.

I see what appears to be Lophophora growing on top of ? (I cannot identify what it is.) I knew it was possible to graft it to SP but wow this is beyond what I imagined was possible.

Much to learn here I see.

This just made my day, seriously, thank you!!

Ah, I've heard of somebody trying this before. I don't see it working, because for a graft to work the actual inner cells of the cambuims have to fuse with undifferentiated cells to pass nutrients through to each other. If you put a seed in one I'd think the skin/callousing would block any nutrient transfer, but it would be awesome if it works!

And cruetmixer, it's the same principle as grafting to columnars, but you do it when they are tiny seedlings (usually) onto these skinny grafting stocks. It's harder than normal columnar grafting, but works very well once you get it down.

I see signs that it is swelling, it might germinate, but like you said it probably won't fuse... But I'm satisfying my curiosity and dispelling ignorance at the same time, win win.

I have the set up under a humidity dome and I mist the cut end to minimize callusing.

As for the graft, I'm just waiting for my hylocereus cutting to throw out some pups.