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Acacia and Mimosa Identification Thread Options
 
nen888
#901 Posted : 2/17/2015 2:00:11 PM
member for the trees

Acacia expert | Skills: Acacia, Botany, Tryptamines, CounsellingExtraordinary knowledge | Skills: Acacia, Botany, Tryptamines, CounsellingSenior Member | Skills: Acacia, Botany, Tryptamines, Counselling

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..hi floribunda..for acacia ID photos of the fully developed flowers, and close up of vein structure, as DreaMTripper says, are crucial..and pods (which take a few more weeks-months) nail it (as --Shadow said)
that said Smile , the first tree may actually be an N.Z. naturalised form of A. floribunda..it is usually in higher country there..i would like to see the full flowers, and a close-up of where the phyllode meets the stem, before getting closer to a conclusion..
the second tree is A. sophorae/longifolia..
nice to see them across the tasman sea..thanks

and Trashipeoulas, hi..very nice to see aussie acacias in Europe..
the trees are A. retinodes (or A. provincialis, previously part the same species)
it has had one very interesting results by Nexian testing, and is common internationally..
along with A. longifolia it is naturalised in Spain, Italy, France, and the islands of Greece Wink
.

thank you all the ID input people of the thread..
.


and everyone..please remember to be kind to trees..
.

 

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floribunda
#902 Posted : 3/3/2015 12:07:58 AM
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Thanks Nen888!

Looks like flowers might slowly be forming on the suspected NZ Floribunda.

I will be sure to upload photos of them when they do.

Do you think there is any point doing an A/B on the phyllodes or would the Longfolia bark be a better bet for research?!?

Big thanks Thumbs up
 
DreaMTripper
#903 Posted : 3/3/2015 6:08:23 AM

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Not bark from any wild tree it weakens its defenses significantly, so much so it can and probably will cause a slow death of the tree due to infection.
 
floribunda
#904 Posted : 3/3/2015 11:53:24 PM
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Of course not. The A.longfolia var has had some big branches chopped off it by the council and there is a lot of bark to be had. Just wondering which would give me more luck out of the potential floribunda phyllodes or the bark!?!

Hopefully I can get some flowering photos soon!

My Acuminata seedlings seem to be coming along quite nicely!

 
DreaMTripper
#905 Posted : 3/4/2015 1:52:16 PM

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Branch bark is likely to have more alkaloids than the phylodes.
 
floribunda
#906 Posted : 3/5/2015 1:41:57 AM
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So branch bark from A.Longifolia var Sophorae is more likely to contain some sort of spice than phyllodes from A.Floribunda?

Sorry about these questions. Very new here! I appreciate the help.

Big grin
 
DreaMTripper
#907 Posted : 3/5/2015 2:04:53 AM

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Both strains are variable (flori more consistent but that could only be due to the lack of research done on sopho) so noone but the trees could tell you.. Bark generally has higher percentages but there are no guarantees.
 
Tryptallmine
#908 Posted : 3/5/2015 2:52:40 AM

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DreaMTripper wrote:
Both strains are variable (flori more consistent but that could only be due to the lack of research done on sopho) so noone but the trees could tell you.. Bark generally has higher percentages but there are no guarantees.


Most times I've extracted from A.Floribunda I've had success to some degree. Goo and later some crystals. Branch bark has worked better than the Phyllodes. I've found you need to separate the inner layer from the outer layer of the bark. The inner layer has a red colour to it similar to root bark although you are probably not going to be afforded that luxury unless a larger branch is cut off - which in my case is what happened when it was being cut back from a fence line. That is what seems to hold alks from my experimentation with Flori.

From memory though, most of the success was around ~November. I've tried an extraction from the same tree in one of our winter months and came back with absolutely nothing.
 
floribunda
#909 Posted : 3/5/2015 8:28:46 AM
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Thanks heaps for the helpful information. Would cybs salt AB tek be a good starting point for both phyllodes and bark on these species?

If this is off topic I can post it somewhere else Smile

Helpful bunch you are!
 
Tryptallmine
#910 Posted : 3/5/2015 10:53:26 AM

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floribunda wrote:
Thanks heaps for the helpful information. Would cybs salt AB tek be a good starting point for both phyllodes and bark on these species?

If this is off topic I can post it somewhere else Smile

Helpful bunch you are!


Cybs salt tek is exactly what I tried. Flori tends to naturally have a lot of plant fats or oils and needs a cleanup for crystals. You'll just end up with pretty nice goo without a mini a/b. Not that there's anything wrong with that!
 
kiang
#911 Posted : 3/18/2015 5:25:38 PM
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Today i found out that a acacia that i planted on the ground in a semi-remote area and that i started from seed some years ago (not sure if 3 or more years ago), has survived winters and summers and is doing excellent! Really happy for it and for me cause i was losing hope that i would ever have a green thump for "exotic" acacias.

So my problem now is this: at that time i brought i think 3 packets of acacia acuminata, some narrow and some broad phyllodes, 1 packet of acacia mucronata and i had few acacia longifolia wild collected seeds that i sow too.

IMO the phyllodes feel different and look different too when comparing to longifolia. This is my only point to compare cause i only know from field inspections, longifolia and melanoxylon.

So could this be acuminata broad phyllode variant or is it longifolia?

Thanks Smile

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DreaMTripper
#912 Posted : 3/18/2015 11:10:59 PM

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My guess is it is a.longifolia looks nothing like the others.
 
acacian
#913 Posted : 3/22/2015 12:08:13 AM

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kiang, it looks like you have a variety of a. melanoxyn .. its the same as a variety I see growing around the yarra/dandenong ranges down in victoria.. the conjunction of both juvenile and mature phyllodes are good indicator of a melanoxyn. phyllode shape and size vary greatly with this species and can go from being quite narrow pointed 'longifolia-like' to more oval/balloon shaped. always complex nerve anastomy with melanoxyns definitely recommend checking the phyllodes out with a magnifying glass for a visual treat. I think melanoxyn is equally as deserving of the "variable sally wattle" name as its juliflorae counterpart acacia mucronata (which is variable sallow wattle)
 
Jameson2
#914 Posted : 3/22/2015 7:00:24 AM

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http://imgur.com/0Ech7Yi
http://imgur.com/vYVlmkw
http://imgur.com/YWYsgTS
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Apollo
NWO
 
DreaMTripper
#915 Posted : 3/22/2015 10:31:05 AM

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lol not a clue from those pictures, close ups of phyllodes needed.
 
Jameson2
#916 Posted : 3/25/2015 8:37:50 AM

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Yeah I realised that after posting the pictures directly from my phone. I'm pretty much new to the whole DMT thing as you could probably tell.

Is there any specific parts of the plant I should take close-ups pics of? Apart from the phyllodes etc.
Also is a general guideline for deducing Acacia trees, those small yellow bristley like flowers?
Apollo
NWO
 
DreaMTripper
#917 Posted : 3/25/2015 10:25:01 AM

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No worries, yeah close up of phyllodes, where the phyllode meets the stem/branch, the trunk and ideally seedpods, flowers too if possible yes.
 
Jameson2
#918 Posted : 3/26/2015 6:35:56 AM

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So I went for a hike today and found what seemed like many potentials Acacias trees. However since most of them are not in the flowering stage, as a beginner it becomes quite difficult for me to distinguish whether they are infact acacias or eucalyptus trees, both having phyllodes and especially leaves that are similar.
Out of all these trees I took pictures of, one really stood out being different.
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Apollo
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Jameson2
#919 Posted : 3/26/2015 6:54:34 AM

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Here's a few more
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Apollo
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DreaMTripper
#920 Posted : 3/26/2015 7:11:59 AM

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Possibly the last photo in the post before this one is an acacia and the first 3 photos of the last post.. Still closer up of vein structure needed. You should check out worldwide wattle for how the flowers develop and for getting an idea of the acacia 'look'.
 
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