Does anyone know if light naphtha is better at extracting than heavy? If so can anyone explain why?

I tried searching for this answer everywhere with no luck. Thanks in advance!

no, actually heavy naptha (which is really medium weight) is better at extracting because it has aromatics such as toluene and xylene. dmt is very soluble in the aromatics, which makes it difficult (if not impossible) to get it to freeze precipitate, and it takes forever to evaporate.

for this reason, most folks use VM&P, or light naptha. heat gently before extracting, and do at least three extractions. evap, or freeze precip.

Thanks for responding, Benzyme!

Just so i get this cleared up... Heavy is better at extraction, but since it has aromatics (the "Bartoliine premium low odor white spirit" i used is 30% aromatic) it makes it difficult to freeze precipitate. That is weird as I had quite good success with the bartoline which is stated as "Naphtha (petroleum) hydrotreated heavy".

I picked up some Ronsonol lighter fluid today and it says in one of the data sheets that it consists of "Aliphatic hydrocarbons", which i am guessing is just another way of saying naphtha. A different data sheet for Ronsonol says it's "light hydrotreated". So you would suggest Ronsonol for extraction opposed to the Bartoline, yes?

Sorry for not being very knowledgeable on this matter. I am not a scientist or chemist in any shape or form and i apologize for the ignorance on the details behind the materials. Thanks again!

Yup, heavy naphtha can make freeze precipitation pretty inefficient and it also takes much longer to evaporate, but it'll pull more spice. Light naphtha is better (one can freeze precipitate, it evaporates faster, and as benzyme said, heating the solution a bit will help more spice to get in a pull.

Good stuff! Thanks for clearing that up for me, people!

you're welcome

and don't apologize, they're legitimate questions
it's why we're here, along with sharing the same enthusiasm for the spice

my elf says ronsonal works fine for him!..he made sure to evap it first to make sure no blue or green rust inhibators were present..it was clean!

Thanks everyone! I was in a hardware store today picking up a few things to make a vaporizor and noticed some lighter fuel on the shelf that said it contained "Distillates (petroleum) hydrotreated light", so i assumed it was just light naphtha. I did an evap test and it was absolutely horrible. I looked up the safety sheet online and it said it has kerosene in it! I wish it said that on the bottle and i would've saved myself 8 bucks... i'll just stick to the ronsonol

Sorry for the bump of an extremely old post but I have relevant questions to this.

I've been using Ronsonol for a good while with great results however last week I spotted 'Shellsol A Naptha' for sale by the litre at a decent price so I bought some to give it a try. Stupidly, I just thought naptha was naptha... Very naive.

Anyhow, Ronsonol would evaporate in 10 minutes with the fan blowing lighty over the top of it and it barely left any smell in the house. The Shellsol takes a good 12+ hours to evaporate and absolutely STINKS the house out. I did an evap test when I first got it and there was no residue left over, however with an STB extraction I find the end results to be 'sticky'.

I can see the DMT under the 'film', but I'm not sure what it actually is? If I run a razer blade over the top and disturb it then 10 minutes later it sets to a cloudy solid and can be scraped off giving me the usual STB looking DMT, it seems to smoke the same as the Ronsonol extracted DMT but that isn't exactly an exact science.

Has anybody had a similar experience?

a quick search shows that shellsol has isoparrafins with some aromatics. what this means is you have some heavier hydrocarbons with higher b.p.'s, and dmt is very soluble in them. because you noticed some dmt in the residue, you may be able to redissolve it in a small amount of shellsol, and freeze precipitate it, then filter it. vacuum filtration is recommended.