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official extraction help thread Options
 
Earthwalker
#2201 Posted : 10/27/2014 4:23:58 PM

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Hephaestus wrote:
Hello everyone,
I recently tried Noman's DMT For the Masses Tek, and during the freeze precipitation, I only was able to precipitate probably less than 0.5 mg's of DMT from a Naphtha solution pulling from 50g of bark. There were no crystals in the naphtha solution and only extremely small slightly transparent dmt crystals sticking to the sides. I suspect that I may have used too much naphtha and am currently evaporating it off right now. Noman's tek told me to use 1ml of naphtha for every 15ml of water in the lye solution. It also told me to use 1.5 to 2 times the water if I used pre-powdered bark like I used. This meant that I used around 90ml of naphtha for each of the first and second pulls, with the third pull I tried using 15ml naphtha total. The third extraction resulted in a much more yellow, but clear and free of particulates liquid with the color and consistency of urine. However, stupidly, I mixed this with the naphtha from the second pull for the freeze precipitation process. What do you think my problem was, and do you think it would be resolved by letting it evaporate for a few days before trying to freeze precipitate it again?

Thanks.


If I was you I'd do a couple more pulls with 50ml naphtha and collect all the pulls together then let evap with the aid of a fan to get it down to about 1/3rd total solution ( keep an eye on it ) as it evaps quicker then you think ,
It's better to use a little less naphtha then you did but as long as you evap it down it shouldn't be a problem !!
 

Good quality Syrian rue (Peganum harmala) for an incredible price!
 
Hephaestus
#2202 Posted : 10/27/2014 6:42:45 PM
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Earthwalker wrote:

If I was you I'd do a couple more pulls with 50ml naphtha and collect all the pulls together then let evap with the aid of a fan to get it down to about 1/3rd total solution ( keep an eye on it ) as it evaps quicker then you think ,
It's better to use a little less naphtha then you did but as long as you evap it down it shouldn't be a problem !!


I heard that using a fan will convert the dmt into dmt oxide. As long as it is still in solution at 1/3 like you said, will it be fine to evap with a fan without it coverting? Thank you for your response.
 
Earthwalker
#2203 Posted : 10/27/2014 6:55:10 PM

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I don't know we're herd that from as most of the big hitters who write up the TEK advise pre evaping with a fan !
 
DreaMToday
#2204 Posted : 10/28/2014 4:30:36 PM
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Thank you, i was gonna ask what tek one would suggest then i figured Cybs hybrid tek look like a better alternative then a boiling.

When it comes down to the warm water baths could one use sand instead of water?

Cybs hybrid tek says to use a heat bath, should i just use the hot water from my faucet?

Also if one is to re-x with heptane would one want to get the temp to 208 degrees if its boiling point is 209.2 degrees... in theory. or would that be too hot?
 
Earthwalker
#2205 Posted : 10/29/2014 12:23:09 AM

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DreaMToday wrote:
Thank you, i was gonna ask what tek one would suggest then i figured Cybs hybrid tek look like a better alternative then a boiling.

When it comes down to the warm water baths could one use sand instead of water?

Cybs hybrid tek says to use a heat bath, should i just use the hot water from my faucet?

Also if one is to re-x with heptane would one want to get the temp to 208 degrees if its boiling point is 209.2 degrees... in theory. or would that be too hot?

Cybs hybrid is a great place to start , hot water out the tap is fine as it's around 45-55c , don't follow what you mean by using sand ?? And reX with naphtha is fine , can't advise with heptane as I've never used it ! Goodluck Thumbs up
 
DreaMToday
#2206 Posted : 10/29/2014 8:38:54 AM
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Earthwalker wrote:
DreaMToday wrote:
Thank you, i was gonna ask what tek one would suggest then i figured Cybs hybrid tek look like a better alternative then a boiling.

When it comes down to the warm water baths could one use sand instead of water?

Cybs hybrid tek says to use a heat bath, should i just use the hot water from my faucet?

Also if one is to re-x with heptane would one want to get the temp to 208 degrees if its boiling point is 209.2 degrees... in theory. or would that be too hot?

Cybs hybrid is a great place to start , hot water out the tap is fine as it's around 45-55c , don't follow what you mean by using sand ?? And reX with naphtha is fine , can't advise with heptane as I've never used it ! Goodluck Thumbs up



Like instead of a hot water bath a hot sand bath, from what i've heard sand is more consistent with temperatures. like if one is using a double boiler fill the top part with sand. I was thinking this might be a good way to head up a solvent. also the sand could probably hold your vial or whatever suspended where water you need some kind of a coaster or something suspending it into the water to keep from contact with the sides.

 
sbc1
#2207 Posted : 10/29/2014 8:50:30 AM
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Dreamtoday to be honest your just gonna complicate things when you start using sand and that just follow the tek, get a pan boil the kettle put the boiling water in the pan, put your glassware in, when it cools just top up, that's all you have to do
 
DreaMToday
#2208 Posted : 10/29/2014 6:13:10 PM
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sbc1 wrote:
Dreamtoday to be honest your just gonna complicate things when you start using sand and that just follow the tek, get a pan boil the kettle put the boiling water in the pan, put your glassware in, when it cools just top up, that's all you have to do



Yeah that what i was thinking thanks for the input
 
sbc1
#2209 Posted : 10/29/2014 6:27:12 PM
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No worries mate
 
onyxdreamer
#2210 Posted : 10/31/2014 8:30:15 PM
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Onyx has a few questions that still need answering after not thinking and creating a new topic it was moved, some of onyx's questions were answered, but still have a few that explicitly cannot find the answer to on the nexus.

Following Q21Q21's Tek 1 (Jim Jam Party) using ACRB and D-Limonene.

1.) Clarification on Salting: The bottom layer (vinegar) is the liquid that one does need to continue on with right? The solvent layer on top is the useless one after that step? Or is it the other way around? Just needed a clarification.

2.)
A)Clarification on Pulls: Okay so when Onyx gets to the consistency step right before the non-polar washes, if Onyx makes it consistency 2 (apple crisp looking) can Onyx pull immediately after he gets it to it's consistency or should he wait 24hr, do the first pull, then a second pull at 48 hours later, etc?

B) Is using more or less solvent better for yield? It recommends 1-2ml/G but would Onyx be better off using 3ml, or even 5ml or more per G if solvent wasn't an issue?

3.) This one Onyx thinks will likely go unanswered due to lack of information or testing but one was wondering out of curiosity what would happen if one were to put jim jam in a degassing oven in the same fashion that good hash oil producers use it to purge their product? One found hardly any resources relating to this, but one is getting an Across International degassing oven soon and wondered if it would be of any use to (one hopes) maybe make the Jim Jam less sticky, more like a crumble/honeycomb hash oil consistency. Just curious, not particularly sure how or if it would work.
 
smiles902
#2211 Posted : 11/1/2014 1:35:14 AM
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K
 
1ce
#2212 Posted : 11/1/2014 5:24:17 AM

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Not worth creating a thread over. But the great crystal spoke to me and said that I should keep extracting, and dump my crystals into one dish, to make one very big crystal.
 
1ce
#2213 Posted : 11/1/2014 7:18:23 AM

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Earthwalker wrote:
Hephaestus wrote:
Hello everyone,
I recently tried Noman's DMT For the Masses Tek, and during the freeze precipitation, I only was able to precipitate probably less than 0.5 mg's of DMT from a Naphtha solution pulling from 50g of bark. There were no crystals in the naphtha solution and only extremely small slightly transparent dmt crystals sticking to the sides. I suspect that I may have used too much naphtha and am currently evaporating it off right now. Noman's tek told me to use 1ml of naphtha for every 15ml of water in the lye solution. It also told me to use 1.5 to 2 times the water if I used pre-powdered bark like I used. This meant that I used around 90ml of naphtha for each of the first and second pulls, with the third pull I tried using 15ml naphtha total. The third extraction resulted in a much more yellow, but clear and free of particulates liquid with the color and consistency of urine. However, stupidly, I mixed this with the naphtha from the second pull for the freeze precipitation process. What do you think my problem was, and do you think it would be resolved by letting it evaporate for a few days before trying to freeze precipitate it again?

Thanks.


If I was you I'd do a couple more pulls with 50ml naphtha and collect all the pulls together then let evap with the aid of a fan to get it down to about 1/3rd total solution ( keep an eye on it ) as it evaps quicker then you think ,
It's better to use a little less naphtha then you did but as long as you evap it down it shouldn't be a problem !!


To expand on this:

You do not need alot of solvent. I like to do 3x pulls with 30ml solvent. A stainless steel water bottle and a nice sized metal marble are a fantastic way to mix! Just take off the rubber o-ring and replace it with teflon tape. Roll it over 4 times, wait a couple minutes, and repeat.

You should probably use less solvent if you don't wish to/cannot evap with a fan.

I had luck using 30ml naptha. After I had all my spent naptha I would do a liquid-liquid extraction converting it to a salt, then salting it out with salt into DMK. I could distill that down easily without disturbing the spice, and crystalize it that way.
 
Absalom
#2214 Posted : 11/2/2014 12:08:56 PM
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Hi everyone. I ran into some problems and maybe someone here knows what to do?

I've done a simple STB before with good results but this time it just wont work out.

I started with about 360g of HMRB that I divided into 6 big glass jars and filled them up with aprox 500ml regular water and 100g NaOH each. Swirled it around a bit for 24h and then added 50g clean salt in each. Then I cold-pulled with a naphtha with the folowing properties "Hydrocarbons, C10-C13, n-alkanes, isoalkanes, cyclics, < 2% aromatics, BP 175-225C.

First two pulls was with about 200ml being swirled for 12 hours, then 100ml, 75ml and 50ml. The solution became quite yellow and I poured it into big glass trays for evap without a fan (I don't have one). After a day nothing was evaporated so I tried heating one of the trays up to 50C for 2 hours. Basically still no evap.

Poured it all into litte glass jars and put in the freezer. After 2 days white lumps was formed. I poured it through coffee filter and collected the yellow naphtha. After letting the filters and jars evap(well, the filters evaporated) I scraped up as much as I could. Some got stuck inside the filter and some was still left in the jars. Most of what I got out was yellow snow kind of.

I heated up a new naphtha with BP ~95C to 50C and poured it into my little jar with yellow snow for re-x. I was hoping to have the oil separate but it didn't, instead I was back to having a jar with yellow naphtha. Since there were still stuff left in the freezer jars I poured the re-x naphtha through each of these jars to collect what was there and put it to evaporate. This naphtha seems to evap properly.

So, now I have 3 bottles of yellow bad naphtha recollected from the freezing and a small jar of yellow good naphtha from the failed re-x.

Anyone knows what went wrong?

I'm now stuck with a lot of the old naphtha that won't evaporate. Can I transfer the alks in this to the new naphtha? Maybe with some A/B kind of move?

Once I'm back on track and it's time to re-x again, what do I have to do for it to not get stuck in the coffee filter? And why didn't the oil separate in the hot re-x naphtha?
 
macguyver
#2215 Posted : 11/2/2014 9:07:44 PM
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Hi

I've used the Tao of Rue Extraction tek, and following a couple of Manske pulls, I now have what i think is Harmine HCL - but it's Gold. Looks like fine weave Gold wool or something (see pic).



Is this normal?! I've seen the red looking crystals in the Tao wiki pics, and when I've bought Harmaline HCL before it's been a kind of beige powder... but I've not seen it like this before..

If I grind that up will it turn into powder? Was going to do a sodium carbonate base on it and turn into freebase, but the Gold looks pretty cool Smile
 
smiles902
#2216 Posted : 11/2/2014 10:49:25 PM
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K
 
1ce
#2217 Posted : 11/3/2014 3:03:43 AM

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Hephaestus wrote:
Earthwalker wrote:

If I was you I'd do a couple more pulls with 50ml naphtha and collect all the pulls together then let evap with the aid of a fan to get it down to about 1/3rd total solution ( keep an eye on it ) as it evaps quicker then you think ,
It's better to use a little less naphtha then you did but as long as you evap it down it shouldn't be a problem !!


I heard that using a fan will convert the dmt into dmt oxide. As long as it is still in solution at 1/3 like you said, will it be fine to evap with a fan without it coverting? Thank you for your response.


Hmm.., I left my fan on with a crystalizing dish left on the jack while I t0ok a nap. This nap mistakenly was 4 hours too long and my solvent was gone. I had a pile of crystals but no oxide.

Heat is required for oxide formation if I'm not mistaken.
 
1ce
#2218 Posted : 11/3/2014 3:07:22 AM

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Also not sure what DMT fumurate salts are susposed to look like. My DMT always precips as a brilliant white color, and is near fully transparent after re-x.

Picture quality is a bit scandalous. It really is quite white.

Also, IIRC when doing an A/B you go from weak acid -> strong base. Try rebasing and nonpolar precip.

And yes. If you grind up crystals you get powder.
1ce attached the following image(s):
20141101_220558.jpg (1,666kb) downloaded 215 time(s).
20141101_220413.jpg (1,015kb) downloaded 213 time(s).
 
DreaMToday
#2219 Posted : 11/4/2014 6:08:57 PM
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so after an extraction one got a sticky brown goo, very similar to bho. one was curious if this is just excess plant material in the solution (one believes they very careful and didn't get any o the aqueous solution in the pulls) because every pull one probably had the hot water bath hovering around 170 degress farenheit and one was using heptane instead of naptha.

One's thinking a recrystalization would probably clean it up a lil bit.

Also using cybs ab salt tek
 
sbc1
#2220 Posted : 11/4/2014 7:28:56 PM
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You should really do a mini a/b if your using acrb to get rid of the fats and that
 
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