So after my first two extractions I got the goo (which is fine) but the yield was disappointing. So I have this feeling that I've got a large amount of bad bark (ACRB) and now I'm curious what to do with it besides dye the world purple.

hey man you can always go with q21 tek and use pickling lime, or calcium hydroxide. It hasnt let me down yet.

KOH is more effective than lime, it more readily dissociates its hydroxyl anions.
For extraction purposes, KOH and NaOH are pretty much interchangeable. I'd go with KOH, given the choice, out of preference.. though it's typically more expensive.

Im having some trouble with the Q21's tek, but cant figure out what. Im getting very low yields (a few mg's perhaps out of 20g mimosa). Most of that was goo, but that was due to high heat the first time.

I pretty much followed the guide to the letter the first time, apart from the high heat perhaps. So for a second experiment, I decided to do a dual track to rule out some factors. I had two batches of 20g mhrb (same source, bought at the same time), put them in seperate pans. In both I put ascorbic acid and warm it up on and off for about two hours, not letting it get past 45C or so. After that I resumed with on one batch with Q21 and the other, Cyb's ATB salt tek. I used a different kind of naphta than the first time, so as to rule that out too.

So put in the lime (little bit extra this time, about 1:1.5 mimosa/lime ratio), stir it up to the right consistency and let it sit for a day. Warm (not hot this time) NPS in, stir, rest, repeat several times. Into the fridge and after a day only a miniscule yield again (perhaps 10-15mg). Second time yield practically nothing.

The other batch using Cyb's tek resulted in about 180mg of yellow crystals on the first pull (almost nothing on the second pull?), even though the first part of the process was the same, using the same kind of NPS.
The lime Im using does really say, edible lime (=Calcium Hydroxide). Is there some simple process to check this (since I have some packets left)?

Also (something different), I tried to do a re-x and wash of the yellow bigger batch. I used very little sodium carbonate and mixed it in a 1:5 ratio for only like 20 seconds. However, after re-x only 80mg of the original 180 remained left. Is this normal??

Naw something's amiss ,, IMO I think you're bark is of low quality !! You might say what about the change in amount of crystals "" well it's possible that the like TEK didn't give much as q21 TEK absorbed atleast half you're nps so it's shill in the dry crust ! Also you only doing 20g batches ! You might aswell do a extraction of a decent size and get something worth while ........ What have you got to lose !!!

Also when ppl either fail or get poor result they think over and over what did I do wrong was it the heat , was it the acid either to much or not enough and so on ...... So they / you did nothing wrong at all , it's simply the bark is crap , so what you should do is use a larger amount of bark with Cybs TEK & then if you're getting poor results try a new vendor and try that
!! Good luck

Well, it is not very high quality bark, that's for sure. I regained some after re-xing al the leftover nps, but in total still about 1% with cyb's tek.

I started out with small doses, so as not to lose it all in one batch if something goes wrong

Still think its most likely that the lime is to blame, since I did everything but the basification stage in the same way.

-edited-

remove you're comment about vendors please mr vortex !!

Removed. Though its legal here, but ok.

Quick Panoramix LSA tek question that I can't find any info for...

Ended up doing 1 pound of seeds to start with as the tek looked pretty straightforward. Did naphtha wash and seed drying. Currently letting everclear soak #3 settle. The liquid is a darker clearish yellow when all soaks are combined and slightly blacklight reactive at this point.

I'm wondering if the solution can be cleaned any further if some fats may have remained from naphtha wash as last wash was not completely clear or if that even matters. Also wondering if the solution can later be dried to a solid even though everclear was used instead of IPA to make for more accurate yield confirmation. I'd put that into a solution for storage if so.

Any and all help would be appreciated. Thank you

Might reduce it to a more manageable volume. Anybody can help with above questions?

Hi everyone, I'm just trying to get my bearings and mentally working through a simulated tek (Cyb's hybrid atb salt tek) to understand the processes and why they are done.

How important is placing the solvent in the freezer after evaporating? I understand this is to make the material fall out of solution and save some solvent...but what would be the result if one left this to evaporate naturally? Other than taking longer to access the yield (and losing some naptha) would there be any difference?

It would most likely be a gooey mess (but still usable). Also, perhaps any contamination that normally does not come along with precipitation, would still be there?

It wouldn't take longer though (at least not for me). If I put 50ml of naptha under a fan in a pyrex dish, it is evaporated within half an hour to an hour or so.

Usualy the final product is cleaner when freeze precipitated cause when you evap you end up with all the stuff dissolved in naphta (like fats).
And, IME, if it's hot (>25°C), you end up more easily with goo.

Thanks for the quick reply!

Might this "goo" be a transparent sticky film (possibly with yellow blobs here and there) that is extremely bitter when placed on the tongue?

Or might that be an impurity that causes the bitter taste...lye, salt, etc?

Goo can be transparent, white, yellow, orange, red, brown but it's always sticky (that's why it's called goo ).

You can't test the "purity" with taste cause even pure freebase burns the tongue. If you have any doubt you can re-X.

Thanks again! I wonder how many people will read this and go put some on their tongue to see what it tastes like?
)

Hi Nexians :-)

i have two question for cleaning my results:

have done an A/B extraction from 350g MHBR..(without defating step)
pulled 3x with roomtemp. Naphta -> got about 3,5g yellow Crystals and yellow oily stuff after freezing and decanting
pulled 3x with hot Naphta -> got about 2g red oily stuff after freezing and decanting..

i'm sure there's no basic solution in it.. because i was very careful with my pipette ;-)


a) if i want clean white crystals, can i put the two results together and do a normal Re-EX?
b) is it better to clean the hot Naptha-Mix with Sodium-Carbonate before?

thank you
RF

Hi Nexus

I bought 250g of Mimosa Hostilis root bark and ran Cyb's tek four times to get through all of it; I now have c.4g of DMT collected together in a small jar and varying in purity. I'd like to re-extract it all in one go if possible - would appreciate any advice on the best way to go about this, and in particular how much naphtha I should use (I have c.75ml of naphtha leftover from the extractions, slightly cloudy so presumably itself harbouring more DMT).

Thanks!

okay, if some one is interested.. i'll show you my result:

have done a separated re-x.. first with the 3,5g yellow Crystals.. result was 3,2g white stuff
and a re-x with the red oily stuff..result was 1,2g yellow crystals

:-)

RF

Hi Iridule,

i would dissolve the DMT in hot naptha,put the jar with naptha & DMT in a hot water bath and stir a bit.. after 3-5min you'll see the impurities at the bottom.. put the naptha in a fresh jar and put it in the freezer for 20h

i used 200ml fresh naptha for my re-x with 4,5g DMT

->does anyone know what to do with the impurities? is this only bad stuff, or are there just other alkaloids in it?
i have about 1g red oil