No. You only salt when the bark is in the solution.

Thank you Du57mi73 !! Yeah I thought so but better to be safe then sorry !!

So far I've yielded .68g from the first 5 pulls. I combined the first 3 pulls and yielded .3 of off white fluffy goodness. The next two pulls combined yielded .180 of yellow crystal. There's also a yield of .2 of more light brown dark yellow waxier substance though its not goo or sticky st all.

When siphoning the solvent off the pulls there was quite a lot of floaters. I combined these with a sixth pull and am evaporating it down before I freeze it.

So far almost three quarters of a gram of goodness isn't bad for my first try. I combined elements of max ion and the regular salt tek. I did the freeze thaw and then did a acid cook of about four hours. I heated the solvent and kept the jar of bark at room temp.

Its amazing how light this stuff is. I didn't realize it before until this extract. What I thought was a half gram or better was not even .2.

Any pointers would be nice but I think.I'm on my way.

Thanks cyb for such an easy to follow tek.

Does anyone know why in the max ion tek it is done by letting the soup cool to room temp and then using heated naphtha to pull vs heating the soup in the regular salt tek?

Is this to prevent pulling really yellow or goo due to the oils or does this just increase yield when pulling ?

Waiting on my final pulls 5 and 6 in the freezer. I've already yielded .680 from the first four pulls. Pretty white stuff not bad for my first attempt.

Have you actually read the whole document?

From The Chemistry of extraction:



PS: Research

Second extraction on 100g mhrb is in progress. This time I followed tek to a t basically. 9 hour acid soak, salinated, added lye around 11pm and began pulling the next morning at around 9am. So a ten hour lye step. I puller twice with 50ml of naphtha and then combined before freeze precipitation. These first two pulls yielded 1.38g yellow xtal.

I continued to let the base soup sit while freeze precipitation happened. Then resided the NPS from first two pulls to which I had to add around ten ml of fresh naphtha. The third pull used was 40ml reused naphtha which left me 30ml to which I added 10ml fresh naphtha for the fourth pull. These two pulls combined are freeze precip now.

I noticed the yellow xtal where a darker yellow then my first extract. I'm assuming this is due to such a long base step before pulling as I used the same amount of heat. The only variable this time being a longer acid soak and a longer base soak before pulling.

I have one question though. Does waiting longer then what the tek suggests result in a higher yield? Meaning if I do the two hour base step per the tek And then do all six pulls back to back and then freeze precip will I yield the same amount compared to how I'm doing it now. Ie two pulls combining then freeze precip then resuming NPS to pull again around 24 hours later combining two more pulls freeze resuming NPS to finish with pulls five and six another 24 hours later?

I guess the question is this. Is all the DMT going to be available after the two hour base step? And can pulls 1-6 be done back to back with fresh NPS yielding the same amount ? Or would the longer base soaks in between pulling and freeze precipitation then resuing NPS result.I. a higher yield? Other teks have u doing an initial pull then waiting a few days before pulling again. Does this effect yield with this tek as well?

I understand the process of what is happening at each step so in my mind a longer base soak in between pulls would yield more as its supposed to in other teks. Or am I not understanding fully? Is the total yield pulled out of the bark in the two hour base soak or will longer soaks release more DMT the length of time different teks suggest has me confused

I usually do my 6 pulls back to back ! The dmt is there it's not gunna magically appear after waiting a further 20-24 hours to do pulls 3-5-5-6 ! Whilst freeze preciping pulls 1-2 !

Also I find if I wait the next day to do extra pulls the base ( caustic soda ) causes more bark dust or purple coloured pulls , I've think it's due to the sitting around but then again I don't really no !!

The long base soak might of been the cause of the extra yellowing this time round or could just be the bark is more oily this batch !

Cool thanks for the info. I'll just continue doing it as I did the first time.

I have no experience with yellow spice so hopefully I like it as much as the pure white.

I've heard some.like it more. And I don't see the need to lose quantity with washing if it gets me to the same place

So I pulled the third and fourth pulls out the freezer yesterday. When I first looked I thought it had yielded nothing because from looking through the pan there were no snow globes or nothing. After I removed the lid I saw a ton of tiny yellow specks.

After draining the solvent and fan drying I scraped it up. There was a nice yield though I haven't weighed it yet. What is odd to me is that the powder was a dark yellow with a brown tint and had the texture of sand. It was gritty but smells just like flowers or new shoes as the rest does.

I'm wondering if anyone has experience with this type of yield. Should I proceed and just smoke it or is it so dirty it needs a wash and re xtal?

If the brown tint looks like some base soup I'd sergest washing it !

Or you could let your pulls sit in a jar for a day or so to clarify. A lot of the particles left in the solvent will settle overnight and stick to the bottom of the jar, then you just decant the solvent off and evaporate/freeze precip.

I've done this TEK about 15 times in the last 6months and I must say I've got it down now and so I should have !

Anyway today after the scrapping and weighing I've got a massive 2.1% yeild , I never thought that I could imagine a number like this from confusa ! !

Question about the chemistry behind this tek.
I am about to do this tek for the first time.
I am curious about the "salinate" step.
Tek says:
"Add apprx1 litre of Salt solution (using HOT filtered water) to the acid soak. {more if the initial bark material is greater than 100g}
Using appx.70-80g of NaCl (Salt), first dissolved in minimal hot filtered water (approx 200ml) and topped up to make final amount."
So my question is why the salt solution is first made saturated, then diluted back up to make 1 liter of solution. It would seem that the maximum ionic strength would occur by adding saturated salt solution. Is there some adverse effect on the result if the ionic strength gets too high? Just curious, I realize from reading the posts that this is a very solid tek, well tested and tried. Just trying to understand the chemistry.
Thanks guys and or ladies.

me

Because it's quicker to dissolve salt into hot water than it is cold...Nothing more complicated than that.

I wanted to touch base with you all about this tek.

I've been getting goo sometimes and then sometimes I've been getting sandy matrices of prettiness utilizing ACRB.
Every extraction I have followed the steps to a "t".
The goo is cool as well and I just transfer to Dream Herb with acetone to make changa - it's light and effective.
My goal is always crystals because I find it easier to utilize.

Recently, after freeze precip attempts that resulted in goo I have gone the evap route afterwards.
On evaporating I have left the solvent by the window instead of freeze precipitating (again) which from
earlier attempts resulted in goo. To reiterate, I am reusing solvent used in precipitate that only resulted in goo and
then just completely evaporating the solvent to produce immaculate (yet slightly sparse) crystals.

This probably implies that the extraction from the beginning just was not saturated enough ; but I am saying that
I am still able to retain a certain amount of happiness by crystallization through evaporation after freeze prec had only yielded goo.
I feel like this is so obvious that it has probably been covered but I just wanted to reiterate... if you are open to evaporating your
non-polar solvent completely and "wasting" it on some crystals after you have only received goo... it will work!

I know it is not recommended to do it this way but the yellowish crystals are beautiful and large. If anyone has any tips or opinions I would be very appreciative.

This is the best way to prevent base soup from getting into your final yield. Patience is a virtue.

Hi I'm thinking of up scaling my TEK and want some advice ,
I tried searching but couldn't find much on the salt part of it ,, So I'm thinking I'll do 250g in a 3 litre bottle with 150g salt is that a realistic assessment or is there a rule of thumb on this , also in you're max-ion TEK you say up scaling shouldn't be done buy doubling chemicals , but a final aquaise layer of 1.5 ltr is required , so am I rite in thinking if I do my acidifying stage buy having a good consistency with liquid and powdered bark then top up with say 1 litre saline solution then say 500ml base solution , that would equal 1.5 ltr with a good consistency then aslong as my ph is correct it's all good !! Yes / no

Just a little tip that might help some people.

A couple of hours before removing your container from freezer to fan dry your yields.

You can place something under your container to lift one side (or to one corner) to drain majority of your solvent off the snow globes to have less solvent to dry.

Hope that makes sense

Cyb, I have one question I cannot find a clear answer to anywhere.
How is the salt quantity scaled UP or DOWN ?
Is it determined by how much water is being used or how much bark is being used ?
(I know that if you use more bark you will obviously need some more water to acheive the same costincency)

thanks

It goes to the amount of water used as the water can only get so saturated with it .... If I do 60g per litre say ...