Right. I didn't obviously understand that caps meant anything other than text. Sorry for shouting guys INinside voices

Noted, I'm just showing the extensive efforts on my part to show beginners etc, its not just a matter of adding a crystalline acid to acetone and its gonna dissolve.

What is everyone's waiting times for the fumaric acid to completely dissolve. (Roughly).
As you can see, picture two was heated at reflux for roughly 50mins, with constant stirring.
That was the result of that procedure.
Any info to add?

Good tip:
I grow a lot of tea, tobacco various other psychoactive plants and trees, not to mention just plain old beautiful exotic plants.
Any tree stumps That have rooted to the ground, that need removal, I axe a cross in the top or drill holes in the stump, then use my basic solution to help start the breakdown of the stump.

I'm sorry that I could not deduct so much information from your attached pictures.

Did you make any measurements?
- How much dry acetone did you use?
- How much fumaric acid did you drop into it?
- How much fumaric acid was left in the vessel after decanting the fumaric acid saturated acetone (after drying the fumaric acid residue to constant weight)?


- Did you actually attempt to slowly drip a saturated solution of a stoichometric amount of freebase DMT in dry acetone into the FASA and wait a day for completion of the reaction and precipitation?

by ready i mean i think i should try acid a few more times because ive only tripped once. also any advice would be much apreciated

Measurements:

Acetone 40ml
Fumaric acid: 290mg (10mg more than recommended ratio. 7mg per 1ml acetone
After 50mins heated at reflux, no apparent dissolving of the fumaric acid

As step one was deemed unsuccessful, adding the fasa to my saturated solution isn't a risk I'm willing to take so instead I've hit the nexus for some answers.
I have never tried the fasa approach. Until now.

It has worked for me. I never used heat to dissolve the fumaric acid in acetone. Perhaps fumaric acid becomes less soluble in hot acetone? Did you try using room temperature acetone?

It is mysterious that it doesn't work for you, while it seems to work fine for others. Are you sure you have real fumaric acid?

synthesised locally. 100% purity. i know my chems. i keep them clean, dry, and pure 100% of the time
its defiantly real fumaric acid haha.

how did you go about the procedure?

did you measure out your F.Acid and add bit by bit to your acetone?
if so how much did YOU use?
did you follow that ratio too? 7mg F.Acid per ml Acetone?
and how long would you say it took to fully dissolve.

thankyou spirit brother

Hmmmm, defiantly you say?


I followed the description in the thread The FASA Method: A Summary - DMT Fumarate and Beyond. Acetone and fumaric acid were at room temperature and if I remember correctly, most of the fumaric acid dissolved within 5 minutes of stirring. Not all dissolved, as I used an excess of fumaric acid. I could clearly see that the amount of fumaric acid that remained undissolved was less than the total added.

Hi... i have not yet found a good clean solvent... I have been trying to and recently i came this one at home depot....

MSDS here

Is this one good to use??

Has anyone tried sublingual harmine before vaping dmt? How was it?

Kleanstrip VM&P is great.

just curious guys. im finishing up a tek my mate fucked up considerably! he used sodium bicarbonate and added it to his DMT FUMARATE for washing impurities. he added a minimal amount of water then dried in an oven.
question is, how can i recover the dmt fumarate from the sodium bicarbonate powder, or a way to re extract freebase dmt so i can re salt?

once the powder (dmt fumarate and sodium bicarb) had dried fully we went ahead with trying to extract the dime using dry acetone. acetone that was pulled wont salt once fasa is added so it leads me to believe it is still in the sodium bicarb and dmt fumarate powder.

any suggestions on separating the two?

Add sodium carbonate then do a paste n pull with dry acetone/ipa. See blab freebase methods.

Thanks dream! I'll dry out the paste I ALLREADY have, and then add the CARBONATE to this?
Re pull with dry acetone then re fasa?

ATM what I have is
- a mix of DMT fumarate, sodium BIcarbonate and a bit of water (moisture to dry off)

After adding sodium CARB, to the mix, then shal I add some water to remake a paste?
Completely dry the paste
And THEN pull with acetone?

Kleanstrip works, if you can find VM&P, I am partial to using VM&P as it has always worked for me. It's listed in various places around the site so you may have already tried to find it, if so, then forgive me for wasting your time

Yea. You wanna make sure the fumarate is fully basified before adding acetone.

I am thinking into getting into some food safe/eco friendly extraction teks and am thinking of using oil derived from natural plant sources (i.e. sunflower oil) to pull DMT from a basic solution. I was wondering if anyone has had experience in doing so, and if so, which ones work best for you? Is there any noticeable difference in crystal quality and experience quality compared to crystals recovered from naphtha? I am planning to extract from MHRB and would appreciate any and all advice you can give me.

There are a few eco-friendly teks here on the site if you search around. If you use a tek that uses veggie oil then you are not going to get crystals. Most eco teks are used to get fumarates or other salted forms. Unless you can use d-limonene. Look into D-limonene as a solvent.

Well into my first year of basic crude alkaloid extractions,
I have many questions as you might guess. I do not have
Ph meter or strips(will have them in future) Simple Lazyman
Tek was used with success on my first MHRB run. I adapted a few of my
Own ideas to the process. 1. I used a tall glass jar in a warm
crock pot bath from the time I added my NaOH and during all
Three pulls of Naptha. (Emulsion was not an issue )
2. Stirred not shaken, with a stainless pie server(works quite well)
3. I do a full evap. in a glass dish that sits atop my crock pot.
(wanted to avoid any loss of goodies)
Again, this was successful w MHRB but the same tek has been
applied to other plant materials, and yes I know about defatting,
with minimal results if the goo. My questions are...
Assuming a standard A/B is being preformed;
1. Can NaOH destroy the DMT molecule? Or weaken?
2. If yes, How much base is too much? Lowest recommended ph?
3. Can NaOH transfer to solvent at All?
4. How much time can a soak be preformed safely before final spice extraction
to exhaust plant material?
I am no chemist. Just a few questions from a beginner. It is a bit confusing
with all the teks and suggestions. I've read numerous times that "adding more
Base won't hurt." And "You need to immediately do a pull bc the goodies will
begin breaking down" ???
Any help is appreciated.