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official extraction help thread Options
 
Earthwalker
#2021 Posted : 6/1/2014 12:51:58 PM

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JisforJohnathan wrote:
so after mixing the naphtha, lye, and acacia solution all u do is wait for the naphtha and acacia seperate and siphon off the naphtha? In the teks I don't see where they specify. I had read that there will be a water layer below a layer of
naphtha an that that's where the lye is absorbed. and to obviously avoid the water


Yeah 2 layers the lye will be absorbed into the acacia water soup and the naphtha on top ,, if I mean if you get a thin layer between them as 3rdI says that's bubbles ( emulsion ) to rid this place whole jar back in warm water bath and slightly agitate the jar and it should disperse !! You really should read the FAQ it's all in there !!
 

Good quality Syrian rue (Peganum harmala) for an incredible price!
 
just-yb
#2022 Posted : 6/1/2014 2:20:50 PM

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Du57mi73 wrote:
just-yb, when you add bark and lye at the same time the bark breaks down into microfine particles that float in the naptha and cause it to be brown/black. Your best way to fix this is to re-x. A soda carb wash wont really fix it. The black IS plant matter, so maybe you can try filtering it through a coffee filter, that actually might be better than a re-x.

Next time make sure you add lye and let it completely react with the water AND cool down before adding your bark. The bark you have is low quality.


many thanks for your reaction Du57mi73 Smile

so it also have to do with the quality of the bark ?
or only by not letting the lye react with the water before?
swim got the crystals clear by crushing them up putting them in a jars add dh2o and shake it around the water took the nasty color continued until the water looked clear and now there orangy yellow do ya still think re dissolving them in naphtha and filtering them would help or could it be that i got the bark out?
 
Du57mi73
#2023 Posted : 6/2/2014 3:45:24 PM

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There is still bark in it. Your dmt should not be orange at all if it came from mhrb. If it is orange at all it means theres still plant matter in it. What you did to get rid of a majority of the bark was smart, but theres still more in it. Reabsorb it in naptha and then filter it would be best bet.

It is the combination of the 2 things going wrong, not one or the other. You have to have low quality bark AND add the bark at/near the same time as the lye.
"I am cursed by the blossoming knowledge of my feminine ideal and she looks suspiciously like you."

"Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid." -AE
 
Psychoactive Haven
#2024 Posted : 6/3/2014 2:20:27 AM

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.
 
DansMaTete
#2025 Posted : 6/3/2014 2:55:56 AM

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I use cyb's tek to and when it comes to pulls :

- 2 first pulls combined and let cool at room temp then put in the friddge few hours and finaly freeze step 12h or more. No need to evaporate, it should be saturated.
- 3 and 4 pulls combined, evaporate (~20%) until milky, then frige and freeze.
- The next pulls i don't combine them to know how much spice is in it and if it worth another pull or not. I evap (~~40%) until milky, fridge and freezer.
- usualy after the last pull i do an ultime one with xylene just to be sure to grab the last bit of DMT plus the jungle spice. And i salt it (FASA, WASA)

This is what i do, others will do differently and better.

Good luck

« I love the smell of boiling MHRB in the morning »
 
Psychoactive Haven
#2026 Posted : 6/3/2014 4:09:28 AM

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Thank you very much for the quick reply!
SWIM made my first two pulls and they're not "milky", shall SWIM let it sit for a while? Or is this not a problem regardless?
 
DansMaTete
#2027 Posted : 6/3/2014 4:31:59 AM

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If it's cloudy when you blow on it => stick it in the fridge/freezer

I use a warm-bath (35-45°C) for the pull so the naphta is saturated when it cools down at room temp but not more than 45°C to not get to much "crap"
« I love the smell of boiling MHRB in the morning »
 
just-yb
#2028 Posted : 6/4/2014 8:06:08 PM

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Du57mi73 wrote:
There is still bark in it. Your dmt should not be orange at all if it came from mhrb. If it is orange at all it means theres still plant matter in it. What you did to get rid of a majority of the bark was smart, but theres still more in it. Reabsorb it in naptha and then filter it would be best bet.

It is the combination of the 2 things going wrong, not one or the other. You have to have low quality bark AND add the bark at/near the same time as the lye.


thanks alot it worked awesome.
ether was easier tbh eveps quicker, but the naphtha is now freez-part but the naptha still looked pretty brown but more yellow then brown.

what is the easiest way to get the elf-spice out or xyelen? swim's hypothesis bc swim still has tartrate, so i was thinking about dissolving some in acetone then add to the xylene w8 for crystals filter/dry and dissolve in some water and add some naoh (or naoh water solution) and then extract with dcm/chloroform or tolueen may be even thf.

swim doesn't know exactly?? but could use some help
so any suggestions
b.c eveping xylene is just a bitch
 
TiHKAL
#2029 Posted : 6/4/2014 8:35:52 PM

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When using the q21 tek #2 with 100g MHRB:

1. Some people recommend having the Acidification step to be 3-4 hours instead of ~40 minutes. Any words of wisdom on this?
2. Can I do the 3-4 pulls within 1-2 hours without any downsides?
3. Can I put the 400ml Naphtha in one pot if I am planning on recrystallising the DMT either way?
4. Should I let the 400ml Napthpa evaporate in room temperature or put it straight into the freezer? (have read different opinions on this one)
5. What's the trick with blowing on the Naphtha? If it goes "dull" there is still DMT in the Naphtha and should be evaped more, correct?

I am aiming for a pure white product with small crystal shards.

Thank you in advance for your help. Preparation is key for me and I want to be as prepared as possible!
 
anrchy
#2030 Posted : 6/4/2014 9:10:59 PM

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TiHKAL wrote:
When using the q21 tek #2 with 100g MHRB:

1. Some people recommend having the Acidification step to be 3-4 hours instead of ~40 minutes. Any words of wisdom on this?
2. Can I do the 3-4 pulls within 1-2 hours without any downsides?
3. Can I put the 400ml Naphtha in one pot if I am planning on recrystallising the DMT either way?
4. Should I let the 400ml Napthpa evaporate in room temperature or put it straight into the freezer? (have read different opinions on this one)
5. What's the trick with blowing on the Naphtha? If it goes "dull" there is still DMT in the Naphtha and should be evaped more, correct?

I am aiming for a pure white product with small crystal shards.

Thank you in advance for your help. Preparation is key for me and I want to be as prepared as possible!


I actually preferred vodsels approach to the q21 tek. https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=30234

Pretty straight forward. Usually you want to use 1ml naphtha per 1g bark. Putting 100ml in freezer or letting it evap down a little if you prefer. I personally find it best to do the pulls over a period of a couple weeks. I use two containers and as soon as they are usable I do the next two pulls. Repeat.

If it gets cloudy when you blow on it all that means is that the solvent is saturated with dmt. I actually never experienced this happening. Not sure what you mean by saying there is still dmt in the naphtha and should be evapped more. Why would you need to evap more if there is dmt in your solvent. Once you remove the solvent from the bark you either evap it down a bit and then place it in the freezer or just place it in there.
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Du57mi73
#2031 Posted : 6/4/2014 9:26:59 PM

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just-yb, if you want a salted form then that should should it too. Look in the wiki section of the nexus and youll find out what to do for that. Naptha and xylene evap at about the same rate, no? I never noticed a difference. Jungle spice is grabbed with xylene.

TiHKAL,
1. 3-4 hours will increase your yield.
2. Yes, you will have a lower yield.
3. 400ml in one pot for one? You mean just doing one pull with 400ml? Thats fine, but you aren't going to have very much of it drop out in the freezer. If thats what you want to do, i think youre better off using 200ml, since MAX you are gonna get 2g(more likely youll end up with 1-1.5g) 400 is overkill. 30ml warm naptha per gram, 60ml should be enough, but if youre not heating, then 200ml should be good for a first pull to grab most of it.
4. You should never evaporate your naptha since it can be reused. Why dont use just do a 100ml pull, freeze that, then reuse the 100ml to do your 2-4 pulls. Unless you want crystal clear spice.. Just do 3-4 50ml pulls. If you are using 400ml, you need to evap atleast half of it because 400ml is a huge waste of naptha if youre going to evaporate half of it anyway, just use 200ml, even then that is excessive, especially if youre using heated naptha.
5. The trick with blowing on the naptha is to see if it is saturated. If you blow on the naptha and it starts to get cloudy then you know it is completely packed with spice and cannot grab more.
"I am cursed by the blossoming knowledge of my feminine ideal and she looks suspiciously like you."

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just-yb
#2032 Posted : 6/4/2014 10:46:28 PM

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Du57mi73 wrote:
just-yb, if you want a salted form then that should should it too. Look in the wiki section of the nexus and youll find out what to do for that. Naptha and xylene evap at about the same rate, no? I never noticed a difference. Jungle spice is grabbed with xylene.



nope swim once tried eveping 4L xylene took 2 months Razz plus the hole environment smelled like a gass station the hole time Razz ( even had a police search thay coulnd find any thing only said someone could better dishwash my pyrex >.< ) and freez doesnt work Razz

cant find much about salting out xylene or swim dunno witch criteria to look for
did find this but dint work https://www.dmt-nexus.me...mobile_posts&t=41422
but did find this https://wiki.dmt-nexus.m...action-The_FASA_Approach
but swim tried it in the past and the freebasing tek jsut doesnt work well so swim need another for that but swim can probably find it
 
Du57mi73
#2033 Posted : 6/4/2014 11:30:28 PM

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You must use polar solvents to salt it out. Acetone, IPA, Water. I wasnt aware you could use xylene for salting, unless you were salting it out of the xylene. In which case you would use just water.
"I am cursed by the blossoming knowledge of my feminine ideal and she looks suspiciously like you."

"Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid." -AE
 
TiHKAL
#2034 Posted : 6/4/2014 11:40:07 PM

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anrchy wrote:

I actually preferred vodsels approach to the q21 tek. https://www.dmt-nexus.me...aspx?g=posts&t=30234

Pretty straight forward.


I've read his Tek and liked it but I've read the post from truthone where he mentioned that he prefers to leave out the heat for better results so I might try that one first.



Du57mi73 wrote:

TiHKAL,
1. 3-4 hours will increase your yield.
2. Yes, you will have a lower yield.
3. 400ml in one pot for one? You mean just doing one pull with 400ml? Thats fine, but you aren't going to have very much of it drop out in the freezer. If thats what you want to do, i think youre better off using 200ml, since MAX you are gonna get 2g(more likely youll end up with 1-1.5g) 400 is overkill. 30ml warm naptha per gram, 60ml should be enough, but if youre not heating, then 200ml should be good for a first pull to grab most of it.
4. You should never evaporate your naptha since it can be reused. Why dont use just do a 100ml pull, freeze that, then reuse the 100ml to do your 2-4 pulls. Unless you want crystal clear spice.. Just do 3-4 50ml pulls. If you are using 400ml, you need to evap atleast half of it because 400ml is a huge waste of naptha if youre going to evaporate half of it anyway, just use 200ml, even then that is excessive, especially if youre using heated naptha.
5. The trick with blowing on the naptha is to see if it is saturated. If you blow on the naptha and it starts to get cloudy then you know it is completely packed with spice and cannot grab more.


1. Alright. What would be the recommended time to wait after adding the vinegar and water to the MHRB and stirring it in? I'd like to use as little heat as possible in this step but wouldn't mind waiting. In general, how necessary is it for the Acidification step to have nearly boiling water?
Additional Information: I am using MHRB Powder.
2. Sounds reasonable. I remember ewok and smokerx saying that it had no influence on their yields but I'm going to be patient.
3. My bad I wanted to say that I'll do 4x100ml pulls for 100g MHRB and then mix them together in one containers instead of using four different containers. People said that this is counterproductive as the first pull is almost the cleanest one compared to the fourth but if I am planning on doing a recristallisation afterwards I don't see a problem with mixing it together or am I mistaken?
Additional Information: I am planning to pull with 40° = 100F Napthpha.
4. So if I am using my 4x100ml pulls and end up with ~400ml (probably going to lose a lot of Naphtha) should I still allow it to evaporate to 50% at roomtemperature before putting it in the freezer?
My understanding is that if I'm allowing it to evaporate at room temperature oxides will colour the spice yellowish but if I'm having too much solvent the crystals won't come out in the freezer, correct?
 
anrchy
#2035 Posted : 6/5/2014 2:37:35 AM

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You don't want to combine that volume of pulls. The more solvent you are freeze precipitating the less dmt will crash out. I didn't evap my solvent at all and everything went fine.

Besides if your waiting to do each pull combining them all doesn't make much sense anyways. The longer you wait to do each pull the more you will get.
Open your Mind () Please read my DMT vaping guide () Fear is the mind killer

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diox8tony
#2036 Posted : 6/5/2014 4:09:06 PM
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@ TiKHAL
3) I recommend freezing the 100ml pulls separately and then combining the powder after.

4) On your 4 or more pulls(do more if the fourth still is yielding, this is why we freeze separately, so we know when to stop pulling) no need to evaporate beforehand. Just let them freeze for a day or two past what you think is good.

When pulling, heating the naptha is not necessary, it will be cooled off by the basified water anyway. It helps, but meh, just do an extra pull. I rarely use heating(only on the last recrystallize to make super saturated, and even then i just use hot water from tap in a bowl) during my Xtract, i just do the same thing more. broken too many glass jars using heat.

pour the used naptha back into your 'used naptha' container which can be used again for first pulls. Since you are doing recrystallizing, which i agree with, your naptha with you first pulls can be pretty yellow until it stops working.

with recrystallizing you should always use fresh clean naptha. since alot of oil will stay in used naptha.

recrystallize until you are happy with the clarity. and on the last crystallize, dont even freeze, just make a super saturated solution of naptha+powder and let it sit on your counter(1-2 weeks), the clearest crystals form slowly, instead of crashing out in the freezer.
This post is fictional.
 
TiHKAL
#2037 Posted : 6/5/2014 5:08:26 PM

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anrchy wrote:
You don't want to combine that volume of pulls. The more solvent you are freeze precipitating the less dmt will crash out. I didn't evap my solvent at all and everything went fine.

Besides if your waiting to do each pull combining them all doesn't make much sense anyways. The longer you wait to do each pull the more you will get.


Sounds perfect anrchy, thank you! I'll just try doing a 90-100ml pull and it should be fine. Going to keep pulling each day once until I'll have an almost non existant yield.

diox8tony wrote:
@ TiKHAL
3) I recommend freezing the 100ml pulls separately and then combining the powder after.

4) On your 4 or more pulls(do more if the fourth still is yielding, this is why we freeze separately, so we know when to stop pulling) no need to evaporate beforehand. Just let them freeze for a day or two past what you think is good.

When pulling, heating the naptha is not necessary, it will be cooled off by the basified water anyway. It helps, but meh, just do an extra pull. I rarely use heating(only on the last recrystallize to make super saturated, and even then i just use hot water from tap in a bowl) during my Xtract, i just do the same thing more. broken too many glass jars using heat.

pour the used naptha back into your 'used naptha' container which can be used again for first pulls. Since you are doing recrystallizing, which i agree with, your naptha with you first pulls can be pretty yellow until it stops working.

with recrystallizing you should always use fresh clean naptha. since alot of oil will stay in used naptha.

recrystallize until you are happy with the clarity. and on the last crystallize, dont even freeze, just make a super saturated solution of naptha+powder and let it sit on your counter(1-2 weeks), the clearest crystals form slowly, instead of crashing out in the freezer.


3. This sounds the most logical now and probably what I'll do. Maybe I'll recrystallize my first pull seperated from the 2,3,4,5th because it would be my "pristine" pull but I guess there won't be much difference if I do the reX the right way. I was actually wondering why people were using a pipette to suck out the goo from the shot glass here
https://www.dmt-nexus.me....aspx?g=posts&t=1266
Wouldn't it be easier to use the pipette and slowly suck out the clear solution without moving the glass so the goo doesn't start mixing with the solution again? When washing other chemicals I always disturb the mix as little as possible using the pipette to suck out the good solution and put it in a seperate container, then add a bit of solution and repeat the procedure to get the most out of my dirty goo.

4. I was thinking of giving the "bark" container as well as the Naphtha container a warm bath until they are both at 40° and then mixing in the Naphtha just to be sure and on point. Maybe I won't warm it up but since I have an electronical thermometer just for that, I might just as well use it. As for breaking jars, I'll be using beakers so there's no risk of them cracking.

For recrystallizing I am going to use heptane so it'll be clean and should hopefully produce the crystals I am hoping for but then again I'm going to smash them up either way at some point so I might just put the petridish in the freezer.

One last question (for now Pleased) when I am going to let the "mush" sit after the first pull for 24 hours it will dry out. Should I add water to the mush until it gets to the consistency of cookie dough again or should I just add 100ml naptha (the 50-60ml or whatever I have left from my first pull and 40-50ml fresh naptha) to the mush and do the pull?

I'm excited for my first extraction and will make a live thread with a pictorial so you guys have something amusing to read. Pleased
 
decibel
#2038 Posted : 6/6/2014 12:12:43 PM

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Thank you for clarifying this issue for me Sarek Smile It was very helpful!
I will evap what's left of naphta in my jar and hope it contains some goodies Very happy


New question. I'm preparing for my second extraction. This time with powdered MHRB instead of shredded. Will this need to boil as long as shredded MHRB? Smile
 
palomita
#2039 Posted : 6/7/2014 1:17:45 PM

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Hey dear DMT-nexians, I'm coming to you because I'm really perplexed about my DMT extracton using the citric acid/naphta tek.
I did everything like it was supposed to be done except when I was supposed to wait, I then waited longer than recomended to be sure that the maximum amount of DMT got into the solvent.

My problem is that one week after adding FASA, there is still no crystal formed. There is also like a dark brown sticky and very thin layer at the bottom of the container. Surprised
In my opinion this may be due to the acetone, that may contain water even after drying.

Would you have an idea of what to do ?
 
DreaMTripper
#2040 Posted : 6/7/2014 2:21:39 PM

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FASA doesnt work with naptha, I suggest separating the layers put the precipitate back in the base mix and pull again. Separate the naptha wash vigorously and repeatedly with FASW, separate naptha then evaporate the FASW liquid then convert to freebase if required, or remove excess fumaric acid , see BLAB tek for conversion and clean-up teks.
 
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