the yellowness of your spice does not effect the experience itself.

Hello fellow hyperspace travelers and spice extractors.

I am hoping to embark on my first extraction soon using Cyb's Hybrid ATB Salt Tek as it seems the most simple for a new extractor like myself. I must say its a brilliant document and illustrated perfectly with the diagram and photo's.

I have a few initial questions before I get all of the ingredients together.

Firstly is there a danger of any Lye tainting the final product? I understand the basic chemistry of the extraction but I know how nasty lye can be. Is there an alternative to using lye in this Tek? Also can you use "concentrated caustic soda" as some is branded as that.

Secondly lighter fluid is used as the naphtha, which is best in the UK from experience?

Thirdly, which is the easiest way to test its purity and that it is acaaully spice yo have extracted and are about to vape?

Fourth, I have looked in the suppliers section but I could not see any links for buying MHRB here in the UK but I am trying to find out if the company I found online is legitimate, is there any way to check this without breaking forum rules and posting a name??

SOrry for the noob questions I just want to make sure I am as prepared as possible before attempting anything.

1, just be very careful when separating the solvent from the base mix and you should be ok. I like to pull, then I pour the solvent through a syringe with cotton wool wadded in the bottom, this seems to catch a few micro particles that get sucked up, I will also let the solvent stand to see if anything gathers at the bottom before freezing. go to boots and buy "caustic soda" in a white bottle with a blue lable, alternative bases may be used but im not upto scratch on that with cybs tek.

I would advise getting a good glass syringe off ebay, it makes the job much easier.

2, swan is good to go.

3, multiple re-Xing should be good enough, you can also get substance tester kits if need be.

4, not on the Nexus

good luck

Thanks for answers. I am just worried about the lye and poisoning my fellow travellers/mates!

Also I am not sure my grinder will be able to fully powder the MHRB, does fully powered bark produce better yields or would small chuck still work?

Poisoning your mates is a worry but if your careful you should be fine.

Get to wilko pick up a Russell hobs blender for 20 notes, then chop whole bark or put shredded straight in about 50g at a time. I also found it blends better if it comes straight out the freezer.

It still has some fibres but its powdered enough.

Thanks again mate. Now all I need to so is Removed No discussion of sourcing the bark...

and read the attitude section

good luck

bit harsh surely, I didn't say a source I was just saying I need to find some

in future I won't mention the S word again.

Fellow Space Travellers,

Swim successfully pulled white crystals with shellite (The only selective NP solvent that can be found in the Ausland). However after pouring the shellite into another container and letting the jar drip dry upside down in the freezer, there is still an oily residue. It makes all the crystals smell of shellite. And the crystals turn to a clear goo when touched with finger. It suggest shellite is still there. However when left to sit, it solidifies again. How does one remove this residue?

It could be anything. Rinse with water. If that doesnt fix it then the residue could be either a plastic or really purified dmt as an oil. Try an isopropyl alcohol or acetone rinse. If that doesnt fix it then just clean it out with more shellite. If the acetone/isopropyl cleans it out then its probably dmt.

But to really answer your question, just clean with more shellite. The reason i said the paragraph above was so that if it was a plastic or other chemical then you might want to clean your spice with a mini a/b or re-x.

If SWIM adds a little bit of shellite, does he then freeze precipitate again? SWIM doesnt see how this works, new residue will remain wont it?
It definitely is not plastic.

Strangely, when SWIM rinsed it with water in a glass, alot of the crystals seem to have dissolved.

Definitely dmt though, I think the warmer temp is causing the crystals to go gooey. Anyways, SWIM will wait for water to evaporate, and hopefully the goo will solidify into a clean dmt product.

Sorry if this does not fit here.

What would be the proportion of DMT between ACRB and MHRB? I mean, I've read that ACRB has less DMT to extract but, how less? Enough to be better to have 100g of ACRB that 50g of MHRB?

Thanks!

search astaroth... SEARCH!! good luck

Alkaloid content varies from plant to plant significantly depending on genetic and environmental factors. Dry MHRB has been known to contain anywhere from .5% - 2% (and sometimes even more) DMT by weight. 1% is a good average and about what you can expect from either ACRB or MHRB, but MHRB is more likely to yield a greater amount. ACRB also containts N-methyltryptamine, so you are likely to have that in your end product at a ratio around 1:1. Some people prefer this DMT/NMT mix, others choose to remove the NMT.

There is a tremendous amount of info on this forum about this topic, so using the search function as Mimosa_Man suggested would probably be a good idea.

Hello, I'm attempting Salvinorin A Extraction and Purification for the first time.

What I've done:

Using cold, unused, dehydrated acetone, I performed steps #1 & 2 (cold acetone extraction step) on about 236 grams (out of my 473 grams of leaves total; about 1/2 of my leaves).

At that time, the gallon container of acetone I was using became empty (had now been used & had now turned green); I noticed that the dehydrated acetone solution was between emerald green & jungle green - I got the feeling that I would need more acetone, so I performed step #3 (let settle 24hrs & discard sediment). I have still not touched the other 1/2 of the leaves, other than to put them in batches of 30 grams.

My question is:

Do I need more acetone, or is this acetone most likely not saturated? (see pic below)

In other words, should I use fresh, new, unused, cold acetone for the other half of my leaves, or just put this green acetone back into the freezer, and keep using it until the evaporation step?

Update:

I've gone ahead and re-cooled the used acetone; extracted from the second half of the leaves; let the acetone settle and discarded the sediment. Time to evaporate.

Ive never extracted salvia, but if you would take a small portion of your leaves that you wish to know whether or not is tapped out, and soak them into IPA or some other alcohol for a period of time and see if it gets discolored then you might be able to get a ball bark for whether or not its completely drained without having to buy a whole new gallon of acetone. but my serious question is this... are you seriously going to sit and evaporate ALL of that acetone? Thats a serious waste, and unhealthy. I dont know how much that is, but it could probably be used ALOT more before its saturated.

I've extracted 473g of leaves with cold acetone, allowed to settle, discarded sediment, and evaporated; I'm left (so far with a mixture between powder & goo; powder is grey/green; goo looks black).

I'll continue to let this gooey blob dry out; Is it normal to have some portion of goo at this point?

If this stuff all dries to a powder, I'll probably vaporize some of this green product, which is currently 2.889 grams (without the metal weighing dish)

Update:

The green goo is not drying into a powder, but some was smoked, and produced a strong trip.
Happiness followed; mood uplifted.

I was suspecting the goo was still just wet and would eventually either powder up as well, or harden some. Regardless, if its active it doesnt matter what state its in. Glad it turned out well.

Hello,

I have another question regarding lye+aluminum reaction + possible contamination + possible purification

So.. I did 5 extractions so far, applying Cyb's Hybrid Salt Tek. The first 4 times i used this bottle shown in the picture. Its shape makes pulls with pipette quite easy and i am able not to get any droplets of the basified soup come along with the solvent. The only problem for it is that its cap is aluminum. After having a hard experience with spice, and further extending my reading ( i really read quite much here , this is thesaurus of precious knowledge), i became aware that base + aluminum reaction needs to be avoided. I stumbled upon this thread.



So for my fifth extraction on i got a lab grade reaction bottle that is all glass including cap. But the problem with it is that its too wide and solvent layers spreads too thin on top. I tried to get as much as possible from the solvent, and then started pulling solvent + little of the basified soup, pour off from pipette in another small and really thin beaker. Despite i could see lye spots in the product in my precip dish..

So i have two questions now :

If i continue to extract in the glass bottle, and suppose lye reacts with the cap, thus hydrogen corroding the cap, and aluminum getting into the basified soup, what is the chance it gets into my final product ? Would the different purification methods allow me to get rid of this possible contamination? If so, which one of them or which combination. So far, i have done only naphtha re-x on my spice, but i am trying to be well informed on the sodium carbonate wash and acetone wash methods as well.. So , do you, fellow psychonauts know if the purification methods could help with that issue.

From now on i intend to do 3 re-x per yield and hope that would do the job?

Also, would triple re-x get out all traces of the lye i have in my last yield?

hello, psychonauts

if one were to only stir the mix, after adding the non-polar solvent [considering i'm in the pulling stage], without shaking and rolling the bottle, would that affect the pulls not collecting all the freebase spice? I am having Cyb's hybrid salt tek now for the 6th time, and i use the bottle shown in the picture one post above this one. This time i got myself a small glass beaker to use as a cap, but it doesn't fit quite well, so i roll with a towel when shaking & mixing during the previous stages. Got some minor spillage, but i prefer that to lye contacting aluminum.

Anyway, i have a glass stirring rod and was thinking if i could only roll gently and stir with the rod during the nps-stage. I.e. would not shaking (i usually shake quite vigorously) affect eminently the outcome?