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Limp Papaver Somniferum seedlings Options
 
hixidom
#1 Posted : 1/21/2014 4:10:46 AM
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Hi all.

I have a dozen or so Papaver Somniferum (poppy) seedlings that are about 3 weeks old. They started out ok, but over half of them started to fall over after growing about 0.5-1 inch. Others still stand up perfectly. I am worried that the limpness is caused by something I am doing...

a) Perhaps the seedlings are too heavy because they are water-logged; I don't water them until the top of the soil is dried out. I water them twice a day with a spray bottle (~4 sprays per cup).

b) Perhaps they are not getting enough light; I have 3 15W bulbs hanging about 10 inches above them (producing what, to me, seemed like the brightness of the sun at that distance). The bulbs are on a timer that turns them on for 10 hours a day.

c) Perhaps they are not getting enough fresh air; The plants are in a confined space, but I have a small fan right above them that I turn on for about 30 minutes every day. The fan blows away from them, so the force of air on the plants is negligible.

From several sources, I have read that it is normal for the seedlings to fall over, while from another source I have read that there is something wrong if they are falling over, so I'm a little torn on whether or not there is actually anything wrong at all. I know that I need to transplant the seedlings into bigger containers soon (the cat litter tubs that I've been saving Smile ), but I would like to get them healthy before I do that. Alternatively, I don't want to transplant the limp seedlings if they are too far gone. I would appreciate suggestions from anyone who has experience with this phenomenon or with horticulture in general. My thumb is currently only this green.

Thanks for any help you can offer.
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Parshvik Chintan
#2 Posted : 1/21/2014 5:39:39 AM

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yea that looks fairly normal to me.
you could add a bit more soil if you are concerned.
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AlbertKLloyd
#3 Posted : 1/21/2014 6:25:21 AM

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Quote:

b) Perhaps they are not getting enough light; I have 3 15W bulbs hanging about 10 inches above them (producing what, to me, seemed like the brightness of the sun at that distance). The bulbs are on a timer that turns them on for 10 hours a day.


10" is pretty far.

45W for how many sqaure feet? You want 25-50 per square foot or so, and to keep the lights close, 2-4" close is more ideal.

These can be a tricky plant indoors.
 
Coja
#4 Posted : 1/22/2014 3:38:51 AM

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You don't mention what type of bulbs you're using. I generally press florescent tubes right over seedlings as they produce little heat and a light that isn't likely to burn much aside from fully exposed cacti/succulent seedlings.

P. somni. doesn't tend to transplant well and is rather cold hardy as a seedling. So, it's usually surface sown where it's going to grow in late fall before snow or as soon as frosts have stopped in the sprint. Beautiful flowers, and the blue-green coloration of the foliage really adds some contrast to a flower bed when it's not in flower.
 
hixidom
#5 Posted : 1/22/2014 6:50:58 AM
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I'm using fluorescent bulbs (3 of these). I'll try to bring them in closer. The plants take up no more than a square foot. My setup is currently very small. I would add more soil, but the seedlings are just so fragile I am afraid to risk destroying them. I have read that they indeed do not transplant well, but I have some ideas for getting the dirt from the cup to a bigger pot without handling the plant directly, so we'll see how that goes. I would plant them outside to begin with, but I don't have a yard of my own to plant them in, and I can't think of a safe place to plant them otherwise.

To everyone who has responded, thanks for your advice.

EDIT: Sometimes I wonder if fluorescent bulbs are good to use for plants. Yes they have a higher light to heat output ratio, but is that really a good thing? Natural sunlight includes infrared rays, so perhaps plants require infrared rays to be healthy.
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Coja
#6 Posted : 1/23/2014 7:03:16 PM

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Sunlight and ideal climate are indeed the best for most plants. However, you can get a cheap, close(er) to natural spectrum of light using a mix of warm (red spectrum heavy) and cool (blue spectrum heavy) florescent tubes.
 
 
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