So I am trying to find a way to clean up some nps that has been sitting in bark for to long and has picked up oils and debris to the point that I feel it must be cleaned. What would the best way to go about doing this be? Acidify the nps adding a solution of vinegar and water to pull out the freebase and convert to acetate? And then throw away the nps and rebase and repull? I dont want to lose any (or many) alkaloids and this would be the first time attempting to clean something up. Honestly, it wouldnt even be worth the effort but i have a few jars of basified acrb with small bits of nps in them that have become very murky over a few days time. I would just throw that nps away but i would like to do more pulls on these jars and i suspect even if i throw away what I can of the residual nps any new nps i add will still collect debris from any residual nps that will be remaining. A dry tek was used so all of the residual nps cannot be fully removed.

I would hate to waste anything. Could the fact that the resulting extract is brown from debris and oil be ignored since this will be used in changa anyway? I'm not worried about the taste or aesthetic qualities, I just dont want there to be anything left that is either very irritating to the lungs or stomach. As i said it will be used in changa. thanks!

if its for changa, just do a sodium carbonate wash (in case the "debris" is from the basified mixture), and then call it safe.

if you wanted, you could do a mini a/b to really clean it up, but just a sodium carbonate wash should guaruntee safety

Thank you, since the base being used was calcium hydroxide should it still be safe? I will look into sodium carbonate washes.

I am trying to find solid information on how to do a sodium carbonate wash. I have seen people post some not so encouraging results but I am sure if I understood this a bit better I would have no problem. Any solid links to info would ne great.

Wouldnt just washing your cloudy nps with ionized water work? what is the purpose of the sodium carbonate. Sorry for these ridiculous questions... links or info would be great! Thank you!

the purpose of the sodium carbonate is to make sure the water is alkaline, so that it doesn't result in yield loss (As the alkalinity keeps the dmt as freebase, which isn't water-soluble)

A detailed explanation of how to perform a sodium carbonate wash can be found in Step 7 of Vovin's tek.

Thanks for the link Ethneo. I will have to play around with this when I have the chance. I'm still not sure why the freebase would change if h20 has a neutral ph, I'm guesing a pinch of a weak base is just to be sure..

I will try this but I am planning on researching and implementing cybs tek and I feel that should be much worth the time. Also , if I can find some natural organic plant sources, doing an all "food" grade extract would be awesome.

Really gotta try to do some research on phalaris and sustainable sources soon!

basically, yea.. say the water you used was slightly acidic, without your knowledge, it might result in yield loss.

Ok cool, thanks Parshvik, so it really is that simple...

If you are extracting from ACRB, it might not be that simple. The goo that often results from an ACRB extraction is widely believed to be a mixture of DMT/NMT, and a sodiumcarbonate wash will not remove NMT. It is still a good idea to do a sodium carbonate wash but if you want crystals from your goo, you are going to have to take some extra steps. I have not personally tried it to separate DMT and NMT, but I have heard of people seeing good results from recrystallizing their goo. Or you can separate the two alkaloids with either this method or this method.

Or you can learn to love the goo!

I do love the goo man, I dont wanna lose anything! This is gonna be used for changa.I'm just concerned about saftey number one. If oils make it taste a little weird that all good. Im just wondering if, since lime was used, small bits of debris would even be an issue.

One of the jars that had been sitting there for 3 days (after 2 pulls) had a bit of really oily residual nps. It was left on its side for 24 hours so the nps would seep out of the clumpy debris and could then be observed. The decision was made to just ignore it and do 4 more pulls . The first pull was done with a minimal amount of nps so the oil would be more concentrated and could be observed better when it was poured out (as opposed to using a regular amount of nps). The first pull was less of a pull and was intended to just pick up the oily residual nps. This "pull" was actually quite clear when it came, oily a bit yes, but comparable to any other pull. 3 more pulls were done. I will update with results when evaporated. The other jar had been sitting an extra couple days and much more debris ;that will be dealt with another time and will need a washing. I wonder if salting your water for a wash would have more desirable results...