I concur with Acacian, white vinigar. Its all about the ph.

If it's actually "Lye Water", then it should be a solution of sodium hydroxide and water. I have never heard the term "lye" used to describe anything other than sodium hydroxide.

That's very strange... And kind of misleading as well. I imagine people have probably purchased that stuff expecting it to have lye in it (with good reason since it's in the name), and then come to find that it actually just contained sodium carbonate and no lye at all.

Alka LYE? Alkali... = Al kali -> kalium = potassium (hence symbol 'K' for potassium) - if that makes any sense to you!

Possibly 'lye' once referred to any alkaline ash extract used for soapmaking, and has only come to mean, more specifically, sodium hydroxide since that time.

al-kali = al-qily , "from the ashes"

[Middle English, alkaline substance from calcined plant ashes, from Medieval Latin, from Arabic al-qily, the ashes, lye, potash : al-, the + qily, ashes (from qal, to fry, roast; see qly in Semitic roots).]

http://www.thefreedictionary.com/alkali

Nice.
On that note:

lye
n.
1. The liquid obtained by leaching wood ashes.
2. See potassium hydroxide.
3. See sodium hydroxide.
[Middle English lie, from Old English lag; see leu()- in Indo-European roots.]

http://www.thefreedictionary.com/lye

lye (laɪ)
n
1. (Elements & Compounds) any solution obtained by leaching, such as the caustic solution obtained by leaching wood ash
2. (Elements & Compounds) a concentrated solution of sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide
[before 900; Middle English lie, ley, Old English lēag, c. Middle Dutch lōghe, Old Norse laug bath, Latin lavāre to wash]

Pretty much any acid will work, but it would be in the best interest to use something food safe. So this is why people usually use vinegar. I have also had success with extractions using food grade citric acid and fumeric acid.

These two dont give off a nasty smell like the vinegar does when boiling the plant material. The citric acid has some smell, but not as bad or potent as the vinegar. Just make sure the pH is correct, thats the part that really matters.

Salting involves adding an acid to the DMT-containing solvent in order to either precipitate crystals of the DMT salt (FASA), or to dissolve it in an acidic aqueous solution and remove it from the solvent. Salting is only mandatory if using a solvent that will not work for freeze-precipitation and will not evaporate clean like limonene or sunflower oil, but it can be used with any solvent. People often salt their DMT out in order to leave their final product as salt of DMT (DMT fumarate probably being the most common), to be used for pharmahuasca or insufflation (a relatively uncommon method of ingestion for DMT). People also sometimes salt out their DMT for long-term storage, as DMT fumarate is more stable so it will not degrade as quickly as freebase. I am not sure of the shelf-life of other DMT salts, but I believe DMT HCl and DMT acetate are either very difficult or impossible to crystallize so they are not commonly used salts of DMT.

Tartaric acid is a good one to use it gives off virtually no odour and is very efficient in relation to the cost and ammount used. Chobeastie discovered it could even be smoked in the salt form with no differences to freebase in harshness or effect. Im surprised the thread got so little attention however I think storage of such a salt wasnt very practical and user freindly.

I know you're using mimosa, but for others reading, DO NOT use HCL for acacia, as it reacts with other compounds

Ethanol is one of the most efficient polar solvents for extracting tryptamine alkaloids, so you could add some of this to your vinegar+h2o solution (avoid 100% ethanol, as the tar may become soluble)

There are some advantages of citric acid. I assume it won't evaporate as it's usually a solid, hence no shift in PH with a lot of boiling.