So, after a couple more years on the road I have made some changes to my tek. Some have complained that they cant get the product to harden using my old jungle tek, and the acetone wash fixes that problem. Another problem was using too much HCl accidentally, and this tek uses Citric acid instead, which is safer and easier to work with. I have been traveling the nation with this stuff as my constant companion, and this product has been consumed by literally thousands of people and everyone agrees that it blows away any clear shards of pure DMT that have been going around.
So, to the administrators, please update my tek that is on the wiki, as this one is much better.
Shaggy's (updated) Jungle Tek
updated 2-4-2010
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Materials
500 grams Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark powder
Toluene (Ace Hardware brand Toluol in the paint thinner section) Xylene may be substituted for Toluene.
Acetone (Any hardware store or wal-mart)
Sodium Hydroxide (Roebic brand crystal drain opener, found at Lowe's Home Improvement in the plumbing section)
Citric Acid (available at grocery stores)
A 6-liter crock-pot (wal-mart)
A hot-plate with a teperature dial
A pyrex dish of average size
A large pyrex dish with the biggest surface area possible. (wal-mart)
Test tubes, test tube stoppers and test tube clamps, all available at hobby lobby next to the chemistry sets. You want a stopper with a hole in it.
Pipettes and eye droppers, also at hobby lobby next to the test tubes.
A 1-gallon wine jug. Carlo Rossi is cheap and has the perfect shape.
Mason jars.
A large funnel
A digital scale that goes up to 500 grams and down to .01 g
It would be useful to get a basic lab setup. You can get by with the above materials, but using the proper utensils makes the process more enjoyable and runs smoother. The above is what I use now that I am constantly on the road and my lab must be small and mobile.
get your lab ware here:
http://www.unitednuclear.com/other.htm Get the laboratory glassware set, the laboratory hardware set, and the basic laboratory tool set, and the vacuum filtration kit and a separatory funnel, available here:
http://secure.sciencecom...4671&SessionID=5l0u3{A4rxPHfUEs0JYr
Get all this stuff, if you are serious about extracting and want to move on to other plants, like san pedro, syrian rue, kratom, etc.
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Basically we are going to use citric acid to get the alkaloids from the bark into an aqueous solution. Then we are going to add sodium hydroxide to the solution to: 1) further break down the cell walls of the plant matter releasing more alkaloids into the solution and, 2) convert the alkaloids to their freebase form so they will be soluble in nonpolar solvents. Then we will remove the alkaloids from the solution with a nonpolar solvent (toluene). This orange extract contans DMT (white) and Yuremamine (red). DMT is soluble in heptane while yuremamine is not, so if desired we can then wash the orange full-range extract with heptane, separating the two compounds. Here are step-by-step instructions.
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ACID/BASE EXTRACTION
Dissolve 30g citric acid in a gallon of distilled water in the crockpot, then stir in 500g of MHRB powder. Turn the crockpot on high and let it boil for at least 6-8 hours. Stir regularly. After the time is up, turn off the crockpot and take the lid off so it can steam and cool. This reduces the volume a bit and it needs to cool some before you put it in the jug. You want it to be hot in the jug, but not boiling hot.
In a mason jar (or erlenmeyer flask if you have one) place 250ml of warm distilled water. Slowly stir in 200g of sodium hydroxide. This is an exothermic reaction, meaning it releases heat. The water will get very hot very quickly so be careful. Avoid getting sodium hydroxide solution in your eyes or on your skin. Make sure all the powder is dissolved. Pour this solution into the bottom of your gallon wine jug.
Use a funnel and ladle the soup from the crockpot into the wine jug after it has cooled down some. Put it all in there, bark sludge and all. It should pour through the funnel easily if you stir it up with the ladle. You want the level of the liquid to come up to the base of the neck of the jug, leaving the neck empty. If it comes short of this mark, add distilled water until it is the right volume.
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POLAR/NONPOLAR EXTRACTION
While the jug is still hot, add toluene. You should have left the neck of the jug empty. Fill the neck with toluene, where the level comes up to about 1/4 inch from the mouth of the jug. Cap the jug, and gently invert the jug for about 10 minutes, mixing in the toluene but not creating foam. Then set the jug on a table and allow the layers to separate completely. This should happen quickly, but it could take hours. Just patiently let it happen. When the layers have separated, use your pipettes to siphon off the toluene layer, and place it in a mason jar. MAKE SURE you don't suck up ANY of the dark bottom layer; this is toxic.
Repeat this polar/nonpolar extraction at least 3 more times, combining the toluene pulls in a mason jar. If the toluene from the 4th extraction is still dark yellow, do a few more until it is coming up lighter colored. It is unavoidable that you will suck up some particles of the base solution. This will settle to the bottom of the mason jar and stick to it, so let your toluene sit in the mason jar for an hour or so before proceeding to the next step, and then be careful that it stays behind in the jar when you pour off the toluene.
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EVAPORATION
There are many ways to evaporate toluene. Keep in mind that toluene is very flammable, and inhaling the vapors is also dangerous. Do this in a well ventilated area or outside to avoid explosions or asphyxiation. The easiest way is to pour the toluene in a large pyrex baking pan and set it outside with an electric fan blowing on it. The greater the surface area, the better. It evaporates much easier than water. This will not work if it is too cold or humid outside. If this is the case and you must do it inside, pour the toluene into flat bottomed pyrex container with a large surface area. Place the dish on a hotplate turned up to 200 F. Let an electric fan blow on the surface of the toluene. When the liquid has evaporated you will be left with a reddish yellow oil. Smell the oil every few minutes as it cooks. It should not smell like solvent AT ALL. Crank the heat up to 300 F. First it will smell like solvent, then it will smell like mothballs, then it will smell strongly of DMT and nothing else. Blow on the oil while it is cooking so it moves all around and evaps every last bit of solvent. Then remove the heat and let it cool under a fan. If it won't solidify, scrape it around with a razor. Move the oil around, scraping it up and spreading it out and scraping it up again, until all the oil had been moved around. Place it under a fan and scrape it around until it hardens.
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ACETONE WASH
First prepare a near-boiling water bath in a small pot. Fill a test tube halfway with your extract. Fill the rest of the way with acetone, and stopper the tube with the stopper with the hole in it. Use the test tube clamp to hold the tube and dip it in the hot water bath until the acetone begins to bubble, then remove from heat, shake the tube to mix it all up, then let it settle. Siphon off the layer of acetone that has no solids, and squirt it onto a clean pyrex dish on a hotplate turned up to 200 F for evaporation. Refill your test tube with acetone and extract and repeat the acetone wash until you have washed all of your extract. Keep adding acetone to the test tube until all of the extract has been dissolved in acetone. Anything that will not dissolve in acetone should be left in the test tube.
Evap the acetone in the same way you evapped the toluene. Acetone has a very low boiling point and gets cold when you leave it exposed to air, so keep it heated or it will get cold and collect moisture from the atmosphere and this will make it harder to evap. So, it goes from the test tube in the water bath to the hot pyrex for evaporation, never let it get cold.
When it hardens. it is finished. This is the full-spectrum Mimosa extract, and this is how I prefer to leave it. I call this the orange deemsters and this is what I have been passing out at all the festivals and everyone loves it. The experience lasts longer than pure white DMT and the OEV's are much more defined. Seems like this is the way to keep the spirit of the mimosa intact because it contains all the alkaloids from the bark in one product, DMT, Yuremamine, and the other suspected MAO-inhibiting beta carbolines present in the bark. But if you want to separate the white DMT from the "red jungle spice" which contains the other alkaloids, proceed to the next step.
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SEPARATION OF THE ALKALOIDS
For this process, it is important that NO TOLUENE is allowed into the solution. Do not use pipettes or containers that have had toluene in them. It will prevent the white and red from separating.
Heat some heptane by pouring it in a small mason jar with NO LID. An erlenmeyer flask is ideal. Place the jar inside the crockpot with no water, on high, and put the lid on the crockpot.
Fill a test tube half way up with your orange extract. If you have more extract remaining, use a second test tube. Use the stopper with the hole in it to avoid pressure buildup. Place the tube in the crockpot, using the test tube clamp to hang off the edge of the crockpot, keeping the test tube upright while inside. Replace the crockpot lid.
When the heptane is hot and the extract has melted in the bottom of the tube, use a CLEAN pipette to fill the test tube with heptane. Then, using the pipette, suck up some of the heptane from the tube, and then squirt it forcefully down to the bottom of the tube, causing the oil in the bottom to thoroughly mix all throughout the solution. Then place the tube back in the crockpot, upright, and allow the layers to separate. This should happen quickly.
It is important to keep the solution hot. You should see a bottom red layer and a top yellowish layer. The top layer is supersaturated, so as soon as it begins to cool you will notice the white DMT crystals falling out of the heptane back into the red layer. You don't want this, so keep it hot.
When the layers have separated, quickly siphon off the heptane layer with a pipette and squirt it onto the large pyrex baking dish, leaving the red oily layer in the tube Refill the test tube with hot heptane, mix the layers again, separate the layers, squirt the heptane in the dish. Do this separation three times total, and squirt the heptane in the dish each time.
It will evaporate quickly because it is hot and it is a very small amount of supersaturated solution. Allow this to sit for a few hours. This is your yellow-white DMT. The "red jungle spice" is still in the test tube. Put the tube back in the crockpot so it gets nice and melted, then quickly pour this oil onto a plate to dry. Notice that all the dirt and lint that contaminated the solution is left in the bottom of the test tube.
Allow the plates with your two products to sit out, exposed to the air, for a few hours to completely dry out and harden.
Then scrape them up and put them on dishes, and cook out the heptane just as you did the toluene earlier. When the products no longer smell of heptane at all, cool them with a fan, scrape them up, and you are done. These are your finished products.
Lately I've been getting 10-14 grams of orange deemsters from 500g of bark. The yield should stay the same if you separate the alkaloids. My bark is stellar, so if you get 8 grams consider it a success.
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Well, that's it! I wish you the best of luck in your experiments with chemistry and hyperspace! Please be safe and secretive about this operation, it is highly illegal and can be dangerous, so proceed with caution.
Love and Light,
Shaggy D. Mimosa
aka The Entheogenist
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...They all became the river.