Recently did an extractin on 250g acrb...STB
I did not hava nice ph-meter this time so i had to wing it, i`m pretty sure i used to much lye. So im going to have to meassure the solution. But i dont have the right eqipment for it right now.
If anyone has a good avice or Method to get accurate Control over that high ph i would apreciate it.( i bougt a cheap one that was suposed to be good in the range of 4 to 14 which i thougt was good enough for me ,but it was juping around on the high end of the scale-and i dont feel i can trust it)

But anyway the firs pull went ok, i got alot of huge white x-tals .But i also got a some dark substace ass well. So i re-x at once to get the darkish colour away-i forgot to weigh it.

When i re-x ed it i was left With a lot of red goo in the bottom of the "glasscup" after i had poured of the warm naphta to freeze it once again.Can i smoke this red goo or is it some leftover basified mix that was pulled?? (picture below..)

The re-x looked very good, but it must have shrunk 50 % in volume...there was some yellow goo ass well, but i scraped it all together in one pile, and put it in the refrigerator so it hardened a little and chopped it with a razor so it got mixed. I weighed out 13mg just to try it,and to check if it was any good.....It was good

Assuming you separated the Naphtha from the basified solution properly, the red goo should be ok to smoalk.

wearepeople
Posted: 23. desember 2013 02:08:31
Assuming you separated the Naphtha from the basified solution properly, the red goo should be ok to smoalk.


Thanks Wearepeople...I`ll try that red-devil goo tonight and probably have to re -x the 2 pull ass well.(was put in the freeze last night) so its ready for x-mas evening.Having a nice one this year

Merry x-mas to all the Psychonauts

TT

Well.. the second pull looks awfull, a few white x-tals and a lot of Brown gunk. I`m drying it with a fan right now and will re-x all of it just to see if there is some dmt hidden in there.
I`ll post a photo:looks like ....

But i really want to throw this extraction away and start a new one, I am sure i used much to much lye. The painting almost falls from the walls when i open the containers...and it kind of smell rottn.

If somebody could point me out the right way to a ph measuring device that is not to expensive it would be much apriciated.

Anyway i will do this re-x just to see....throwing away 250g acrb With only 700mg yield makes me feel not so good.
(my first extraction i did much more accurate, and it worked out very nice-i will not do it like this again for sure)

From my understanding, excess lye is not a problem. But as I have said many times on the forum, I have never had good results from trying STB on ACRB. A/B with a defat is how I got nice fluffy white crystals without even recrystallizing.

I would look on Amazon or eBay for a pH meter... I have seen decent ones on both sites for relatively low prices.

What nonpolar solvent are you using?

I couldn't find it in any searches yet, but...

What is the recommended extraction method for Acacia Acuminata?
Is the bark better than the phyllodes for DMT? Do you use a different method for phyllodes extraction due to higher fat/oil content? If so which?

EDIT: After getting thru some 60+ pages so far on the Acacia thread, I'm convinced that using phyllodes+twigs is in the best all round approach for extraction. Taking into account the phyllodes have higher plant fat content, I would use an A/B method with 2-3 defats

I've just ordered 160 Acuminata seeds, and 20 Oxycedrus seeds. Am planning to grown myself, as well as plant some out in the wilderness (being a bit of a conservationist, and knowing how they are being treated in WA in the wild - they could become rare)

Entheogenerator...what you say makes sense, i did a A/B on my first exraction and had very good amount of white flyffy dmt x-tals.

I will use this STB mix as drain cleaner....And do a A/B extaction with new acrb.
But the first pull from this STB was kind of ok after re-x ,and i had my hopes high.
So the Whole thing just put me Down...damnit

The ph meter i bought was some cheap ....
I`ll get a New and better one for sure, I will check out e bay first.

I am currently using Colemans camping fuel(naphta) for nps, i have the impression its a good alternative but not the best.
The good thing in all this mess(and brown gunk) is that the rootbark is pretty easy to get, so all i lost was a little time.

What exacly do you mean by a defat?


Spiritofspice...Yes, i think so to. The pulls/ naphta looked like thin redwine and the redcolour did not settle at the bottom/seperated from the naphta even when allowed to stand still for some time.
I did not have this problem with my first extraction, so im going for that tek again next time(cyb`s hybrid A/B salt tek).

I dont know if i have made some dumb setting on my profile ,but when i Write here on the nexus i get red lines under many Words and big letters come by them selves(espesially the W), so i have to keep checking the text and correct it all the time.
Besides from that i love it here

Thanks for Your input everyone, im a newbie and learning by the minute here on the Nexus...

TT

Defat is exactly what it sounds like: removing plant fats from the solution so that they do not end up in the final product. I have heard people say that ACRB does not have much fat in it. I do not know for sure if this is true or not, but what I do know is that when I have performed an A/B extraction on ACRB which included a defat step, I yielded nothing but fluffy, white crystals.

There are two ways to go about it. There's an easy way that may or may not be less effective, and a hard way that may or may not be more effective. I have only personally ever used the hard way.

The easy way would be to make your bark/water solution, add some of your nonpolar solvent (the same one you will be using to pull the DMT) before adding lye or other base, mix it up really well, siphon the nonpolar solvent layer off, discard the nonpolar solvent, and continue the extraction as you normally would. I am not certain about how much solvent would be required per gram of rootbark, but I'm sure you can find that information and much more by looking around a bit and using the search function.

The hard way which I have used in the past would be to go about your extraction as you normally would until you start doing nonpolar solvent pulls, take your nonpolar solvent pulls and add them to around 100-200 mL solution of room temperature acidic (pH4 is ideal: i.e. 1 part vinegar to 2 parts H2O) water, mix thoroughly, siphon off the top (nonpolar) layer, repeat three more times (adding your nonpolar solvent to fresh acidic water, siphoning and saving the nonpolar solvent, then combining the acidic aqueous solutions), discard nonpolar solvent (the acidic aqueous solution now contains your DMT acetate and the nonpolar solvent will contain plant fats and oils), basify acidic aqueous solution to pH 12-14, then finally do several nonpolar solvent pulls on this solution as you normally would. A more detailed explanation of this process can be found in Step 4 of Vovin's Tek. It probably sounds more complicated than it actually is in practice, but I have had great results every time I have used this method.

just before pulling put you solution in the freezer for about 20 minutes...

and when you do your pull, pour the solvent off into a bowl (it doesnt matter if some plant material gets in there).. let it seperate,

then gently pour that into another bowl trying to only get the solvent, and let it seperate,

then from there pour it in your evap dish. people say you shouldnt use plastic tupperwear when solvent is involved but swim uses plastic tupperwear for this purpose and never had problems.

THis has allowed swim to easily seperate as much plant matter from the solvent because a turkey baster doesnt work and no seperatry funnel is available...

This is bad advice.
We still do not know whether plasticisers will end up in the crystal matrix. (see )
Also scraping crystals from tupperware containers is very difficult and will invariably scrape up fine bits of plastic.
Always use glass containers for Extractions/Re-Xing/FP etc.

yes* im def not saying use tupperwear, but if no other option is available..

as for the xtals yes swim always uses a glass dish..the tupperwear is only used to decant the solvent from the plant matter which only takes a few minutes...and the solvent wont be in the tupperwear for long before pouring into the glass evap dish.. sorry if i wasnt clear..

You could always try Cyb's Max Ion Tek.

Note, the second one is for the pictures.

Im going for cyb`s max ion tek soon, have looked at it before and now i read it through 100%. Cant wait to start.
All i need is a trustable ph meter... Getting that asap.
No half job this time.

TT